First hikes in Yosemite

[TigerFan]

Trying to plan a Yosemite trip for July, 2010. First trip to Yosemite. I'm trying to come up with a couple of "representative" hikes but the more I read/browse, the more "must do" hikes I find! I need some advice/guidance.

My initial thoughts were:
1. JMT from Tuolumne Meadow to Happy Valley. Hike it over 3 days and climb Half Dome and down Mist Trail.
2. Glen Aulin from Tuolumne Meadow. Two nights so we can explore the waterfalls beyond Glen Aulin.

But the hikes that I also find intriguing:
3. Loop from Tuolumne to Vogelsang, Merced Lake, Sunrise HSC
4. Tenaya Lake (Sunrise trailhead) to Cloud's Rest, then to Half Dome, Mist trail to Happy Valley
5. Panorama and 4-mile trail

I'm a farily experienced backpacker and will have my 11 year-old son with me. We just did a 5-day/35.5-mile bp in the Grand Canyon last month and, well, he ran circles around me, so I'm pretty confident that he can handle whatever I plan. That said, I don't think I want to plan for more than about 7-8 miles a day.

Realistically, we have maybe 10-12 days for the whole trip. The current plan is spend the last 2 or 3 days doing a whitewater rafting trip on the Tuolumne out of Groveland.

Any suggestions, guidance, hints greatly appreciated! Thanks.

[AlmostThere]

My initial thoughts were:
1. JMT from Tuolumne Meadow to Happy Valley. Hike it over 3 days and climb Half Dome and down Mist Trail.
2. Glen Aulin from Tuolumne Meadow. Two nights so we can explore the waterfalls beyond Glen Aulin.

Happy Isles, not valley. If you do this I recommend parking at the bottom and riding YARTS to the trailhead. Get wilderness permits for either of these early, fax as soon as you are allowed, at 12:01 am - this is easily the most popular area of the park.

But the hikes that I also find intriguing:
3. Loop from Tuolumne to Vogelsang, Merced Lake, Sunrise HSC
4. Tenaya Lake (Sunrise trailhead) to Cloud's Rest, then to Half Dome, Mist trail to Happy Valley
5. Panorama and 4-mile trail

Looping the High Sierra Camps can be done with a daypack if you get reservations to stay in the tents and eat dinner/breakfast in the restaurants. All you carry are clothes and daytime snacks, water, and the ten essentials, no need for a bear canister. But it's expensive and reservations sell out - would not be surprised if they are booked already for next spring/summer.

Of course, you can also stay in the backpacker sites with your tent and sleeping bag, etc. without reservations other than the permit - which again, you need to get reserved ASAP once they are available. There's a chart on the Yosemite website that will tell you when that is.

4 mile trail is very, very strenuous with a backpack on, and also shaded, not sure how late ice/snow stays on that trail. But you will not be able to stay the night on the Panorama or Four Mile Trail. (some people go up the Ilillouette drainage and camp, which is apparently allowed but not technically legal.) A lot of people ride the twenty dollar bus to Glacier Point from the valley floor and hike down the 4 Mile trail as a day hike.

Remember that whatever you plan, all your food, trash and hygiene stuff will need to fit in a bear can.... The ones they rent at the park are cheapest but not large enough to fit two people's supplies for five days unless you eat like a fly. Three days might be do-able if what you pack is compressible into small space.

[TigerFan]

Thanks for your response.

I think I understand the permit process. I've done similar drills for the Grand Canyon several times.

I had planned to take two bear cans for any hike over a day or two. I'm thinking they weigh 2+ pounds? We have good lightweight gear and my son was able to carry all of his own gear, including food and water, on a 5-dayer in the GC. So I think we're good on that.

I hadn't planned to stay at any of the HSC's. Lottery applications closed on Nov 1 and I decided not to enter. I might try to pick up a meal for fun if I find something available later on, but that's about it.

What I'm asking for (and I should have made it clearer in my first post) is for recommendations/opinions about the hike itinerary itself.

Here's what I'm come up with this evening:

1. TM to Vogelsang via Rafferty - Vogelsang backpacker's camp
2. Beatrice Lake
3. Merced Lake HSC - backpacker's camp
4. LYV
5. Early AM Half Dome, Mist Trail to Happy Isle

I calculate just about 40 miles.

Thoughts?

[AlmostThere]

What I'm asking for (and I should have made it clearer in my first post) is for recommendations/opinions about the hike itinerary itself.

Here's what I'm come up with this evening:

1. TM to Vogelsang via Rafferty - Vogelsang backpacker's camp
2. Beatrice Lake
3. Merced Lake HSC - backpacker's camp
4. LYV
5. Early AM Half Dome, Mist Trail to Happy Isle

I calculate just about 40 miles.

Thoughts?

You might look at the ratio of weight to volume of the Bearikade canisters, for a slightly lighter, larger option. I had a positive experience renting by mail from them. The larger Bear Vault is about the same weight as the Garcia the park rents, and gives you more space as well.

I think you will be very happy wherever you go in Yosemite... I keep going back over and over myself because all of the places I've been have been worth the hassle of permits and the increased traffic. If you don't mind crowds and crazy black bears sneaking up behind you to grab your dinner, Little Yosemite Valley is okay... I didn't care for the camping there myself as you are restricted to a small area that fills up fast.

Clouds Rest is a less crowded, better view than Half Dome... and no cables and no long, long lines. We did Half Dome starting from the parking lot at Curry at midnight - by 9 am in the morning the traffic coming up the trail while we were going down was steady. You can expect to wait on the granite for a while at the bottom of the cables, take sunscreen. I know everyone thinks Half Dome is like some sort of milestone or accomplishment, but darned if I can figure out why.

The Mist Trail is a lot of granite steps that get soaking wet from Vernal Falls mist - take a poncho if you go that route. The slightly longer JMT switchbacks will be less punishing on the knees and you won't get as wet, tho the runoff coming over the granite in one spot will give a refreshing little shower.

[hiker97]

I think your 5-day itinerary looks great and very doable. The first day is a solid workout going uphill to get to Vogelsang, especially if you're also acclimating to elevation that day. That said, my buddy and I who are not in super great shape managed to hit the TM trailhead around 2:30pm and still made it to Vogelsang by 7:00pm. After that it will be mostly downhill for you. If this is going to be like a once in a decade/lifetime trip to Yosemite and you have 2 extra nights, it's really worthwhile doing the Glen Aulin trek with a layover day there to dayhike down to Waterwheel, LeConte and California falls. There are a real treat, although as many folks in this forum will point out, that is a more crowded destination. You could head out from TM to Glen Aulin for 2 nights, then resupply at TM and do the 5-day trip down to Happy Isles.

[TigerFan]

AlmostThere, thanks for the info about the bear can. I'll definitely check into it.

>> I know everyone thinks Half Dome is like some sort of milestone or accomplishment, but darned if I can figure out why.

Yes, everybody seems to say that and, yet, you've ALL done Half Dome anyway. If I *don't* do HD, I'll probably always wonder if I should have, so I figure I should just do it and get it over with. (I'm old enough to know not to count on the next opportunity...) That said, if we wake up that last morning and it's a zoo, I doubt we'll feel all that bad about skipping it and we won't have gone out of our way.

A couple of follow-up questions:

- I think I read in Schaffer's book that there are "better" campsites at the western end of LYV. My National Geographic map shows a second campground symbol in LYV, just southeast of Moraine Dome. Can anyone confirm/deny/give me better details?

- I've read somewhere that the trail to Glen Aulin is a popular horse trail. I don't mind other people but I really hate smelling the mule/horse, um, "evidence". I'm evidently more bothered by the smell than most. Are mules/horses evident on this trail?

- I chose the Mist trail because we sort of have a mom-son tradition of chasing waterfalls. Are the falls accessible from JMT?

[AlmostThere]

A couple of follow-up questions:

- I think I read in Schaffer's book that there are "better" campsites at the western end of LYV. My National Geographic map shows a second campground symbol in LYV, just southeast of Moraine Dome. Can anyone confirm/deny/give me better details?

The only place you can camp in LYV is within the established campground, with logs and signs marking the boundaries of it. There is a restroom, bear boxes, and two communal fire rings. You don't get your own fire ring and the ranger (one lives up there in a cabin) comes down from the cabin daily, usually around dinner time, to check permits. I have heard that he also comes back in the middle of the night and catches people who sneak in after dark without a permit, but since I had a permit I didn't get rousted out of my bag to verify that.

Have you seen the official page for LYV and Half Dome?
http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/lyv.htm

Sounds like Moraine Dome and beyond would be legal camping.

I've read somewhere that the trail to Glen Aulin is a popular horse trail. I don't mind other people but I really hate smelling the mule/horse, um, "evidence". I'm evidently more bothered by the smell than most. Are mules/horses evident on this trail?

Mules and horses travel a lot of the trails, including the JMT - they grind the trail to powder and do leave piles. A lot of this is rental horses from the stables on staff-led day trips. It is what it is. I expect Glen Aulin is a very popular place to go on horse trips, the thirteen mile round trip to Waterwheel would be a shorter day trip on a horse.

I chose the Mist trail because we sort of have a mom-son tradition of chasing waterfalls. Are the falls accessible from JMT?

You can see Vernal from the lower bridge, and you arrive at Nevada at the top of the JMT switchbacks where the Mist Trail connects to it. If you don't mind being soaked to the bone, or have a poncho, and don't mind navigating the wet steps while tourists are trying to do the same, The Mist is worth doing once for the experience. There are rainbows in the mist and at the top of the falls you can look down on the long column of people coming up. I only mention it so you are prepared for the crowd and the water.... the only other falls that gets you that soaked is Wapama, which practically knocks you into Hetch Hetchy in the spring.

[Wickett]

There is a nice campsite below the cascade at Morraine Dome. Each spot has a fire ring and the water cascade is nice to fall asleep to. It is an easy 2 mile hike beyond LYV. I always stay there rather than LYV.

[dan]

- I've read somewhere that the trail to Glen Aulin is a popular horse trail. I don't mind other people but I really hate smelling the mule/horse, um, "evidence". I'm evidently more bothered by the smell than most. Are mules/horses evident on this trail?

Glen Aulin is a popular horse trail. Do what I do and walk on the opposite (south) bank of the Tuolumne river from the trail. There's an old, unmarked trail that runs along the south bank. It hooks up with the official trail around Little Devil's Postpile.

[TigerFan]

There is a nice campsite below the cascade at Morraine Dome. Each spot has a fire ring and the water cascade is nice to fall asleep to. It is an easy 2 mile hike beyond LYV. I always stay there rather than LYV.

Yes! That's the one. I remember the description but can't locate the reference. Thanks!

[baseline bum]

I have to strongly recommend the Mist Trail over the JMT that time of year, even though coming down Vernal Falls can be pretty scary with how soaked it will be then. It's worth it though. Like AlmostThere was saying, you see some great rainbows and the experience of being right there next to a raging waterfall is something you'll probably never forget. I saw one of the coolest things I have ever experienced while hiking the Mist Trail in early July 2006: a rainbow that wasn't a semicircle, but a complete circle a couple of feet directly in front of me that persisted for a couple of minutes when I stopped while coming down the steps just past the top of Vernal Falls late in the day (forgive the run-on sentence ). My friend who had the camera was just rushing down to get back to Happy Isles ASAP, so I couldn't get a picture, but that view is something I'll probably still remember when I'm on my deathbed. I have never seen rainbows with the level of color saturation I saw on the Mist Trail that July day. They literally looked like I could reach out and grab them.