First-timers looking for advice on proposed route

[IntoTheWild]

Hello,
My friends and I are planning a 5 day trip in early august. We came up with a route through the southern area of Yosemite that starts at the Quartz Entry Point and has us camping at Chain Of Lakes, one of the Ottoway Lakes, along the Illilouette, around Buena Vista Peak, at Crescent Lake and then back out throught Quartz.

We are first-timers and hoping some of you veterans can give us some advice. Does this loop sound reasonable for a 5 night trip? Are there any areas along the route that we shouldn't miss? Any good fishing spots in the area that you want to give up? One thought we had was to straighten the loop out and shuttle back to Quartz if that would allow us to experience a greater variety of nature. Any advice is greatly appreciated

[IntoTheWild]

I have a map but I'm unable to post it for another few days because of the policies of this board - I'll post it as soon as I can

[AlmostThere]

i'm curious how you came up with the route from Quartz Mountain. You'll need to get your permit from Sierra NF instead of Yosemite, on the way to the trailhead - probably the ranger station in Oakhurst.

When you say first timer do you mean first time backpackers, or first time in the area?

[IntoTheWild]

We decided to enter the Quartz Mountain EP because it seemed closest to a number of places that looked interesting in the online research we did - namely Chain of Lakes, Clark Range and Buena Vista Peak. Is getting the permit from Yosemite preferred over Sierra NF? We weren't really sure if that would be an issue.

First time in the area. I would call us intermediate level backpackers.

[bill-e-g]

Quartz is a pain in the butt to get to. Def. don't want to do a shuttle that's for sure.

If you're going to go up to Ottoway you might want to just go over
Red Peak Pass and then continue on your way.
Red Peak->Post Peak Pass->Fernandez Pass.

I would recommend that route over what you mentioned.
Crescent Lake does not have fish. Chain Lakes does, Johnson does.
Minnow used to. Grouse doesn't ... Chilnualna does.
Anyway. 5 days for intermediate backpackers may be do-able
for the Chiquito->Fernandez->Post Peak->Red Peak->Merced Pass loop.
I've done the loop in 3 days with some extra stuff thrown in.
It's about 42 miles with a lot of elevation gain. Just spectacular though.

Anyway, it's all good. Buena Vista Lake and Royal Arch Lake are
very very nice, very picturesque. BV Peak is an easy walk up.

As I said Quartz is a pain to get to... but I wouldn't nec. let that
dissuade you. You get the permit at the Station in Oakhurst.
They will give you directions to QM.

Have fun

[AlmostThere]

First time in the area and you don't want to see any of the iconic landmarks in the park? You'll see some of the big ones in the distance - the back of Half Dome, etc. But that is the area most people hardly ever get to, which makes it a neat place for those of us who live close by to go see - easier to get permits and fewer people.

No big deal on permits from the NF vs Yosemite for this region of the park - I've gotten walk in permits for Yosemite trailheads in that area, no problem, and the NF has not been an issue either. It's a long drive to Quartz Mtn trailhead on roads that go from paved to semi paved to dirt - all drivable with a Mazda (cause I did it ) but guaranteed to fill every vent duct in the car with silty dirt that will come out for months to come. The hunters in this area pound the roads with jeeps and trucks every weekend during deer season, and in late spring/summer the powder dries and flies everywhere. Just FYI. Not sure if you will have a rental or what, also not sure what a rental agency would do if you return the car full of red silt.

You could pick up this loop from a variety of trailheads in the park - Chilnualna is a rarely used trailhead due to the four miles of uphill at the start. You could also go in from Mono Meadow or Glacier Point or Lost Bear/Ostrander trailheads off Glacier Point Road and never get to the standstill traffic in the valley - this would let you peek off Glacier Point itself at least.

[bill-e-g]

Does "first time in area" mean "first time in Yosemite, period" or
"first time in Southern Yosemite, not Yosemite Valley nor Tuolumne Meadows"?

The loop I mentioned is spectacular.

Quartz Mtn. TH sucks though. No getting around that. Took Sky Ranch
road out the whole way once. Ouchy.

[AlmostThere]

I'm sure your loop is great, bill. Just remembering all the swearing from the lady with the pristine Nissan after we went to Chain Lakes - she was soooooo upset the hike organizer didn't warn her about the dirt. There were points on the drive when we could not see the road for the glare of the sun on the cloud of silt. Which was scary as we did it in September the first weekend of hunting season, and jeeps with gun barrels sticking out all sides were whizzing around us.

The loop is probably worth the effort - but might want to think about the transportation you take. Rent a Wreck is prolly more forgiving than Avis, or possibly a local friend with a beater.

[beastieboy92]

great advice guys. much appreciated. you can't tell what the trailheads look life from the maps we have. im going on the trip with intothewild.

this will be our first time to yosemite. we hike/fish/camp out in the midwest area.

we figured we could see the main sights from easy to access scenic overlooks and whathaveyou. That's why we decided/thinking about this loop.
we definitely want to toss our lines in the water too. so we figured we'd hit up chain lakes.

how difficult is it to traverse over the clark range?

once again thanks so much for any advice you can throw at these midwesterners...aka flatlanders.

[bill-e-g]

O. I'm with ya. Did I mention the road sux.
?
But Many of them do. Florence, Thomas Edison, Kibbie, ... QM.



And if you go the shortest way via Beashore it's Cool Grape Goodness.
Yes, and I especially like some "authority" stopping you during
hunting season to interrogate you.
National Forest is also a farce.
It's National Tree Farm / National "how many ways can we rape the land".

With how crappy the road was I was suprised how many people
were there last year. Especially around Spotted Lakes.

[AlmostThere]

we figured we could see the main sights from easy to access scenic overlooks and whathaveyou. That's why we decided/thinking about this loop.

You won't see any of the scenic overlooks going to Quartz Mountain unless you drive through the park and then south on 41. That's a long drive on winding roads. It takes a full two hours to drive from Tioga Pass all the way to the southern gate, if there is no traffic in the park - with typical afternoon summer traffic in the valley, add 30-90 minutes of sitting in a long queue of cars. Some of the turnouts to scenic overlooks will be packed with cars and buses to the point that you will either be waiting for a space or moving on. Then you will drive another twenty -thirty minutes south of the park to a turnoff, and then another hour plus a few minutes (if you have preplanned the route and have a map or clear instructions, the NF roads are like a maze back there) to drive to the trailhead. If you intend to get on the trail that same day and get to a good campsite in addition to this you will be frazzled.

Coming north toward Yosemite on 41, you will turn off to the trailhead before you ever reach the park.

Budget a day for driving through the park and take your time with the sights, adding in a few short hikes - Vernal Falls, Yosemite Falls, walking around the valley or parking and hopping on a free shuttle. Plan to grab a campsite along the way - Bridalveil in the park is first come first serve, or drive to Bass Lake and snag a site in one of the many campgrounds there. Drive up to the trailhead in the morning from there on Beasore.

[bill-e-g]

First Time. August.

Yeah. You're just stupid if you don't go to Tuolumne Meadows,
Yosemite Valley, Glacier Point, and one of the Sequoia Groves.
Stupid as in you'll get back to the midwest and go "duh!, what
the heck! we missed what!".
You need to budget at least 2 days for non backpacking.
Just do dayhiking to various locations.
Don't go to Quartz. Not unless you have a lot more than 5 days total.

Have fun

[AlmostThere]

Well, that's an option too.

It always catches people by surprise when they go to the park the first time - the park itself is stunning and wonderful, and then you have plenty of time to look at it as you wait in a long line of RVs.

But you will kick yourself if you don't see it - Tioga Pass hands down is the best pass in the Sierras, scenic every mile, tons of trails, I could spend a week just laying on my back in Tuolumne Meadows soaking it all in.

I would do two days in the tourist side of things then try to snag a couple of permits and do three days on the trail - the second day of your tourist time, get up early early early early like 4 am, head to the wilderness office, and stand on the porch. The minute they open step up to the counter and ask for a permit for two on the following day, from Sunrise or Cathedral trailhead. Take the (free!) permit and bear cans (five dollars apiece, return them in a drop slot when you're done) and head on out to do more tourist things, then park the car in Curry Village parking area and check the hiker bus schedule for the morning - go over to the desk in Yosemite Lodge to make reservations for two one way seats to your trailhead. The next morning at the appointed time show up at the bus stop in Curry with packs loaded and ready to go, ride up to Tioga on the bus, get off at your trailhead, hike back to the Valley with a stop on Clouds Rest and another on Half Dome if you have sufficient time on the third day (they can stamp your permit with the HD permit if you end up doing the last day on a weekend, Friday or holiday).

If that is all you do it will be satisfying - you will be avoiding the wall to wall dayhikers until the very end of your trip, when you will be coasting down the Mist Trail on a natural high of having seen some of the very best views around.

And then come back some other time and do the loop from Quartz.

[balzaccom]

I absolutely agree with the other posters here. You need a day in the valley...just to wander around, go up to the waterfalls, and really appreciated what a stunning place it is. And you need a day in Tuolumne Meadows too---maybe combine that with hike up to May Lake and Mt. Hoffman. I am not sure you need to go to Wawona, but certainly Glacier Point...and you could backpack into Illiloutte Canyon, which is both beautiful and relatively low traffic, for a nice wilderness experience...

My favorite day hikes? Cloud's Rest. Gaylor Lakes. Mt Hoffman. Lylle Canyon...and of course from Happy Isles up the Merced, but there will be TONS of people there. THat's why it's not first.

[vincejose]

Hi all. I am the third person going on this trip to sign up and chime in. There is a lot of great advice here, especially the accessibility of the trail heads. None of the books/websites/trip details we read mentioned that.

Maybe it's best if we just list what we're looking for and you guys can tell us how close we are. First we're a bit limited on what we can do because there will be at least 6 of us on the trip. Maybe as many as 8. Secondly we wanted to try and see a mix of terrain types. And last but not least we want some of the trip to involve a measure of solitude.

We are focusing on the Southern part of the park after reading it was less traveled. Plus it would let us see big trees, follow a couple creeks, fish some lakes and cut through passes. From what I gather we could start in Wawona or Chiquito/Quartz. Most likely we'll have two cars (one rental) and a bunch of gear. We'll be out 7-8 days and are open to taking a day or two to stand in lines and see the valley apart from the backpacking. My only concern for that is lodging; it's late in the year to set something up for 6-8 people. We figured a loop is best to avoid shuttling back/to the cars. All that means we miss Hetch Hetchy, Tioga and Tuolumne.

Are we crazy to pass that stuff up? If we don't do a loop how can we get back to the cars, ie can the shuttles get you most anywhere? Last thing, we saw a Backpacker Magazine video about an old trail that follows the north rim of the valley; we could split the backpacking in two trips including this one. I think that let's us see all the famous vistas with a wilderness permit. Is that possible? Thanks again everyone.