Need advice on a potential trip to Lyell Glacier

[Dedalot]

My friend is spearheading a trip up Lyell Glacier the week of July 5th, but I am beginning to have some reservations. First, is this even feasible given the high volume of snow and snow melt? We plan on purchasing crampons, as well as rope and harness's for the last leg of the hike - however, all the reports I've encountered have noted that snow will greatly influence the difficulty and, in my mind, feasibility of accomplishing it.

I should also note that I do not rock-climb, but my friend assures me that the type-3 'scrambling' is very manageable. I am worried that the snow and ice will make the climbing much more arduous, though.

[baseline bum]

I'm really interested in this climb if you're doing the ridge between Lyell & McClure, so please post a report with some informative pics if you do. I don't think I'm brave enough (and certainly not experienced enough) to even think about the route straight up the glacier though.

I have read a lot of people on summitpost.org call it class 4 at parts on that ridge between Lyell and McClure, but I think that's when the snow has melted on it. I don't think I have ever seen going straight up the glacier listed as anything below class 4, but I could be wrong.

[andykee]

I'll be attempting to summit Lyell on 7 July, either via the east arete, or directly up the glacier. The Lyell climb is broken in to 2 main sections - glacier travel (90% of the route) and a (relatively) short class 3 scramble to the summit. That's not to say that the glacier travel is simple, as you'll encounter steep snowfields and probably larger than life suncups, but it doesn't require any technical climbing per-se.

That being said, crampons are a must. You'll probably want an ice axe as well. I'll be going solo, so I can't exactly rope up, but I'll be sporting spikes, an axe, and a day-glo orange helmet. Say hi!

[Dedalot]

Just spoke to the information desk at Yosemite (well, not the desk per se, but a representative)- they said Lyell it is not going to be possible right now due to snow and the snow melt. Pretty bummed out; we'll probably do Half-Dome instead, although I don't mean to make it sound like that's a unwanted compromise! Lyell will have to wait for now

[andykee]

not possible in what respect?

[Dedalot]

I've never been to Lyell Glacier before; in fact, my exposure to Yosemite has been limited to Half-Dome, so my knowledge of the area is lacking. However, the individual I spoke too claimed that to reach the glacier, there are sections along the way that require you to cross running water, and the high volume of snow melt this year has made these impossible to cross. I only spoke to one person though, so she may have outdated information. I am going to call back tomorrow and get a second opinion.

[andykee]

Rgr that. Would be interested to hear what they have to say tomorrow!!

Thanks!

[Dedalot]

No problem - I'll give a (hopefully favorable) update tomorrow.

[andykee]

FYI: http://yosemitenews.info/forum/read.php?3,26697