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I talked the family into a 3 night 4 day backpack trip!

Hiking, backpacking, running, biking, climbing, rafting, and other human-powered activities in Yosemite National Park

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I talked the family into a 3 night 4 day backpack trip!

Postby davidlboss » Fri Jan 21, 2011 7:33 pm

I don't know how I did it but I got my girlfriend to agree to a 3 night 4 day hike in Yosemite with her daughter 11, and son 9!

We have gone on a few overnighters and they liked it (not loved, liked). They were 6-7 mile hikes in in So Cal mountains so I'm hoping Yosemite will have better scenery for them. They prefer car camping, but I'm trying to change them.

But they are doing this for me so I need to plan it right so that they really enjoy it. I got the dates of July 27-30th off and this is my plan. Tell me if could work.

Day 1 - Tuolumne Meadows up the Lyell Canyon and camp near Ireland trail head? about 6.5 miles.
Day 2 - Hike up to Evelyn Lake - Camp there? Maybe farther if not too difficult?
Day 3 - Make it to Merced Lake and camp.
Day 4 - Hike to Happy Isles and stay the night in Yurt.

Total miles is about 30 over 4 days.

The mileages on day 3 and 4 are long but they 'seem' to me mostly downhill, how much would they want to shoot me? Am I reading the map wrong?

I see pictures of lyell and Merced and love the idea of hanging out by water.

The 9 year old will have a 9 pound pack, he weighs 60 pounds.
The 11 year old will have a 13 pound pack, she weighs 90 pounds.
My girlfriend will have a 20 pound pack.
And I will have a 35 pound pack.

I also got them to agree to go on 4, 1 day hikes just before this trip and 2 overnighters to break things in.

So... thoughts? suggestions? Could there be a plan b so that we could take if they didn't want to go the whole way?
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Postby hotrod4x5 » Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:06 pm

Are you bringing two cars? How will you get up to the high country, then out of the valley?
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Postby Wickett » Sat Jan 22, 2011 12:21 am

My only though is on the last day. Merced lake to the Valley is a lot of down and it can destroy your knees is you are not used to it. The first time I did it I was on my first trip and came back from Merced Lake. I was in pain near the end and it was not enjoyable. I couldn't even imagine if I had gone down the Mist Trail. But that was then, now I can go down the same way with no problems. There are others who have way more experience than I on here, so I am sure they will let you know if I was just a baby :-)

The scenery from Merced Lake to the Valley is exactly what you are looking for. There are even some spots to slide down some granite waterslides if the river isn't too wild, the kids should love that! I took my wife through there on her first backPacking trip and she loved it.

Cheers!
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Trip

Postby KC » Sat Jan 22, 2011 12:59 am

Going up Lyell Fork is a great way to start. Scenery is great and the trail is pretty level, something you and your family may appreciate the first day out as you guys adjust to the elevation. Also, there are plenty of nice campsites at the Ireland Creek-Lyell Fork trail junction.

Evelyn Lake is beautiful and definitely an achievable goal. It is pretty exposed though. In the case wind and weather become an issue, you can always go a few miles further and camp near Volgelsang High Sierra Camp. It's really nice with plenty of space to spread out (unlike some of the other HSC backpacker camps). However, you might consider camping near the unnamed lake east of Evelyn Lake and just below the pass since there is some tree cover and a nice fire pit.

Frankly, since you are with children, a less stressful option than what you're proposing may be to skip Merced Lake and just go up Ireland Creek over to Vogelsang HSC then return Rafferty Creek. The total trip is about 20 miles (a few miles over with a trip to Ireland Lake) but would give you the opportunity to explore a great part of the park. Plus it's a loop trip and you would be able to avoid dealing with a shuttle bus and the whole Valley mess altogether.

For the loop, you could go up Lyell Fork, camp at the Ireland Creek junction the first night, then continue on to Ireland Lake (all uphill) for the second night. The third night, you could put down at the unnamed lake noted above, Evelyn Lake, or Vogelsang HSC. The following day, you could day hike in the Cathedral range and either stay at the HSC if you did not stay there the third night, or continue on to Boothe Lake. The last day is a nice 6-mile mostly downhill trip along Rafferty Creek back to Tuolumne Meadows.

The Cathedral Range is really beautiful and worth exploring. Lots of opportunity for adventure with the kids. Merced Lake is really nice, but it is 14 miles to Happy Isles from there. Don't know the kind of shape your kids are in, but it might be a factor to consider. That said, I'm betting you'll have a great time no matter what you do.
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Postby Dave Miller » Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:46 am

I did this trek a couple years ago for BACKPACKER magazine. In fact, it was just featured last month in the Magazine. Here's a link to the online trip report: http://bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip ... pId=264804

It's a great hike, but Here are a couple of things to consider, especially with he kids:

There is definitely some steep uphill and lots of steep downhill. The main uphill is the trail from Lyell Canyon to just above Evelyn Lake. The trail isn't too bad, but is a steady trek up.

You will be above 10,000ft in elevation so you keep an eye on everyone for the effects from the altitude.

The area around Evelyn Lake is pretty bare. I would continue on to Fletcher Lake if you are up to it. There are some nice campsites among the whitebark pines, plus the scenery of the lake below Fletcher and Vogelsang Peaks is amazing. The disadvantage to this area is the close proximity to Vogelsang High Sierra Camp. However, with the kids this may be a plus having some of the camp amenities around.

The route from Vogelsang to Merced Lake during Late July should be fairly dried out, but there may be a few places where you have to cross Fletcher Creek through "Long Meadow". That is the route I took. There is another route via Vogelsang pass along Lewis Creek, but I haven't been that way so I can't say what the conditions would be like.

The trail down to Merced Lake is fairly steep in places and once you start heading down you will encounter Yosemite's famous granite cobblestone switchbacks. It was pretty exciting to see Merced Lake and Half Dome from above. Look for it and have the kids watch for this view.

The area from Echo Valley to Morraine Dome is one of my favorite places in Yosemite. I call it the Merced River Gorge and the views are breathtaking. I agree with Wickett that it most likely would be too much to go all the way to the valley from Merced Lake. Especially with the mile or so of sandy trail as you approach Little Yosemite Valley (that wipes me out for some reason). I would stop at Morraine Dome or brave the crowds at Little Yosemite Valley (on a positive note, your kids ane girlfired may appreciate the pit toilets). Breaking this up definitely gives you an easier out on your last day. I went down Mist Trail because I really don't like the John Muir Switchbacks from Nevada Falls to the Vernal Falls bridge. They seem to go on forever, plus, there is nothing like Mist trail when the falls are running. Vernal won't be raging, but you should still see some rainbows going down.

Keep in mind that you will be at the tail end of Mosquito season. Depending on the weather, you could be in the middle of it or it could be over. Take appropriate measures and you should be fine.

As for transportation, I recommend parking at the trailhead parking near Happy Isles and catching the hiker's bus to Tuolumne Meadows. The bus leaves early in the morning so you will have to time things just right. There is a cost to the bus. The Yosemite web site has all the info you need on that.

This trip was one of my favorite trips I've done in Yosemite. It is strenuous so you will have to decide whether your group can handle it. Definitely get some training hikes in that includes some elevation. That should help. Also, I take a lot of kids backpacking and I have found some sort of "end of the trip" incentive helps keep the kids motivated.

Good luck and I hope your kids and girlfriend catch the backpacking bug. Yosemite is certainly the best place to start the addiction!

Enjoy!
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Re: I talked the family into a 3 night 4 day backpack trip!

Postby hotrod4x5 » Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:06 am

davidlboss wrote:Day 4 - Hike to Happy Isles and stay the night in Yurt.
You know you can stay in the backpacker campground for free for one night after your trip.
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Postby davidlboss » Sat Jan 22, 2011 11:11 am

Thanks for the responses!

I chose a Yurt because the hotels are booked (except the Ahwahnee) and I'm sure they've want showers. The next morning we would take a shuttle back to Tuolumne Meadows and head home.

But learning that the last day is 14 miles... that is too much. I would rather have a more relaxed schedule. I really want to see Merced River, but I think I'm trying to get too much into the trip (I do that alot). The smaller 20 mile loop sounds better. But I have heard that the Rafferty trail isn't so great? Lots of dust and manure? Maybe I just as soon go back down the Lyell Canyon trail?

One last question. Day 3 - How hard would that hike be from Evelyn lake PAST Merced to make day 4 shorter? I should have talked her into 5 days....
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Rafferty Creek

Postby KC » Sat Jan 22, 2011 12:40 pm

Not sure what you mean by dust on the trail. I don't think Rafferty Creek is any worse or better than other trails to and from HSCs. Plus, you get great views to North Yosemite and Mt. Conness etc. as you drop into the Lyell Fork. You guys will have a great time, trust me. And in July, if the snow pack this year is anything like the snow pack last year, things are still going to be plenty moist all around.

Again, this is just me, focusing on the 20 mile loop (a bit over with Ireland Lake in there) with kids is what I would do in the time you have. I don't know your situation, but I think you're packing quite a lot of miles and elevation into your original proposal. You're not going to feel like you've missed anything either because Lyell Fork and the Cathedral Range are beautiful. Vogelsang is one of the best HSCs hands down too. I'm also betting an easier third day with a nice day hike (lots of peaks to climb and lakes to see) in there would be something the kids would enjoy a lot.

There are other hikes in Yosemite too that may be of interest in the time you have. Maybe worth considering some of those too, though you can't go wrong with the Lyell Fork-Vogelsang loop.

FYI: you can see two pictures I took of the loop here (admittedly not my best since a freak wind/snow storm was impending): http://www.panoramio.com/user/3189284?w ... d=44438278
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Postby davidlboss » Sat Jan 22, 2011 5:25 pm

I think the 20 mile hike is a prudent choice. I want them to come back for more, so not overdoing it is probably a wise choice. We will see the Merced River another time. Thank you all for your input, it helped immensely.
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Re: I talked the family into a 3 night 4 day backpack trip!

Postby AlmostThere » Sat Jan 22, 2011 7:35 pm

hotrod4x5 wrote:
davidlboss wrote:Day 4 - Hike to Happy Isles and stay the night in Yurt.
You know you can stay in the backpacker campground for free for one night after your trip.


No - you can stay there for $5/person.
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Re: I talked the family into a 3 night 4 day backpack trip!

Postby hotrod4x5 » Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:21 pm

AlmostThere wrote:
hotrod4x5 wrote:
davidlboss wrote:Day 4 - Hike to Happy Isles and stay the night in Yurt.
You know you can stay in the backpacker campground for free for one night after your trip.


No - you can stay there for $5/person.
Oh, they charge? But you have to have a back country permit to use it, right?
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Re: I talked the family into a 3 night 4 day backpack trip!

Postby AlmostThere » Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:29 pm

hotrod4x5 wrote:
AlmostThere wrote:
hotrod4x5 wrote:
davidlboss wrote:Day 4 - Hike to Happy Isles and stay the night in Yurt.
You know you can stay in the backpacker campground for free for one night after your trip.


No - you can stay there for $5/person.
Oh, they charge? But you have to have a back country permit to use it, right?


Yup. they check for those every evening. The backpacker camps are available the night before and/or the night after the date span on your permit.
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Postby Bart.T » Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:26 pm

you can buy a shower at curry camp and housekeeping camp, probably other spots as well. highly recommended!
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Re: I talked the family into a 3 night 4 day backpack trip!

Postby davidlboss » Fri Jul 22, 2011 9:16 pm

Well, I start my hike this coming Wednesday and I'm excited! My girlfriend ordered bear spray while I was sleeping the other night... she is always the conservative one!! I think our trip will be cut short because of snow so I'm thinking that we will do Lyell canyon for 1 or 2 nights and head back to TM and try to get another permit for another overnighter. Any suggestions for an overnighter leaving from TM? I know I will have to get lucky with the permits but its worth a try.

Thanks,

David
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Re: I talked the family into a 3 night 4 day backpack trip!

Postby AlmostThere » Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:07 pm

I suggest leaving the bear spray at home and simply following the instructions on the Yosemite bear safety page. It will save you unnecessary weight in the pack.

Young Lakes is a pretty good outing. So is Ten Lakes.
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