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First time backpacking Yosemite

Hiking, backpacking, running, biking, climbing, rafting, and other human-powered activities in Yosemite National Park

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First time backpacking Yosemite

Postby bigplay » Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:02 pm

Hi everyone. This is my first post. My wife and I are experienced day hikers who spend a lot of time in the Angeles National Forest, Malibu, and San Gabriel Mtns. Work/parenting/babysitter scenarios tend to get in the way of any overnight or multi-day trips. When we visit the Sierras (every year) we usually end up in a cabin or car camping so its enjoyable for our 5 year old. I am an avid hiker/fisherman and outdoorsman.

This summer (June or July) we are planning to go to Yosemite with another couple and backpack for no less then 2 days and 3 nights. I would love to get some recommendations from everyone on what routes/trails we should take.

Keeping in mind that we have great gear, and love to stay/play (fishing...) by the water and want spectacular views. I want to soak it all in without killing ourselves too deep in the back country, or dealing with hoards of tourists in easy access areas... Is there a middle ground? - I haven't been to Yosemite since I was a kid so I want to do it right.
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Re: First time backpacking Yosemite

Postby dan » Tue May 01, 2012 10:56 am

I think Tuolumne Meadows is a great jumping off point for a backpack, expecially one where you want to be by the water. Lyell Canyon is beautiful, but it's popular due to the trail being part of both the PCT and JMT. Young Lakes is a nice short backpack where you can lay over and stay. There's several other destinations from the Tuolumne Meadows area too, such as Glen Aulin and Vogelsang (popular because of the High Sierra Camps), Cathedral Lakes (beautiful lakes).

You can also start from Happy Isles in the Valley and head toward Little Yosemite Valey or Merced Lake, but you said you didn't want hoards of people.
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Re: First time backpacking Yosemite

Postby AlmostThere » Tue May 01, 2012 7:47 pm

It's hard to say what to recommend, particularly now that reservable permits for all the easy and popular trailheads are probably gone. You might just end up with whatever is available, which may or may not fit your specifications well. And I've never gotten away from hordes of campers until two or three days from the trailhead.

If you want short, scenic, easy hiking, and not a lot of crowds, maybe Cottonwood Lakes or other east side trailheads would be better - the permits aren't going to be crazy difficult to get.
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Re: First time backpacking Yosemite

Postby balzaccom » Tue May 01, 2012 8:22 pm

I'm with ALmostthere on this one. There is no easy hike to a lake with good fishing and no people in Yosemite. It doesn't work that way. Nelson Lake comes closest, but that's six miles, and the last four are off trail. You can hike to places where you won't see many people, but in Yosemite, those are not going to be short hikes. I always recommend Illilouette Canyon as a place to escape the crowds, or Boundary Lake. But those are each ten miles or more...and from lesser know trailheads. And no fish in BOundary Lake, either!

You could check out our website for some ideas---we''ve certainly done a lot of trips in Yosemite. Or you might head to Ansel Adams or Emigrant Wilderness, which are on either side of Yosemite, and have fewer people.
Check our our website: http://www.backpackthesierra.com/
Or just read a good mystery novel set in the Sierra; https://www.amazon.com/Danger-Falling-Rocks-Paul-Wagner/dp/0984884963
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Re: First time backpacking Yosemite

Postby Grzldvt » Thu May 03, 2012 12:57 am

You actually have lots of options based on the trailheads report - http://www.yosemiteconservancystore.com ... dDates.htm
I am with everyone else, it is going to be difficult at best to get away from any crowds with just a couple of days. It's Yosemite, what you are looking for doesn't exist. If it did, the Yogi Berra's famous words come into play - No one goes there anymore, it's too crowded.....
However having said that there are several options.
Ten Lakes is still currently an option. A lot of lakes, but you are going up some fairly steep territory in the beginning. Many, many places to explore and a ton of fishing. You won't be alone, but people are spread out over the area.
Murphy Creek is an easy hike and you can camp at Polly Dome Lakes. You can day hike to May Lake/Mt Hoffman, or if June, head down to Glen Aulin/LeConte Falls. After June, the Toulumne River will be way down and be Ok, but not great.
Mono/Parker Pass - Again not a short hike and camping in the area can be dicey, as you progress towards Koip Peak, it gets very rocky. You need to get past Parker Pass to camp, but on the left as you progress there a few lakes(no fishing) for a water source. You can then day hike to Koip Peak with crazy views of the southern Sierra, and if you are really, really observant, explore a dead mine and tailings that very few have ever seen.
Ostrander off of Glacier Point Rd is an option, but it can be a tough hike, short but has some steep climbs. From Ostrander, which is a gorgeous lake, you can follow the orange signs out to Horizion Ridge and get some really spectacular views of the Cathedral Range.
Young Lakes via the Glen Aulin trail going in still has some steep spots but much gentler than going in via Dog Lake. Once at the top, and on a very large flat area with the first lake to your right, go left out to the edge and you should find camping with huge view of Mt Conness and gorgeous distant views of the Sierra. A little research will give you information on getting to the top of Ragged Peak which gives you some BIG views for a fairly easy effort. Head out via Dog Lake, as the views are incredible. Going in Dog Lake has one ugly climb and then a steady climb that takes you above the lakes area and then drops you down into Young Lakes proper.
May Lake - going totally against the grain of no people, this is a nice spot, a very, very easy hike to the campground at the High Sierra camp. Camping in the surrounding area is not allowed due to the impact, so you will be in a psuedo campground. But you have gorgeous views of the lake and Mt. Hoffman. You can hike to the top of Hoffman, and down to Glen Aulin. You can go up on the ridge behind the High Sierra camp and get a an incredible view of the Sierra. I have two panoramas from that area that I have put over my phone in my office, so everytime I pick up my phone. I am looking out at those views. Another option at May Lake is to purchase meals at the high Sierra camp. The breakfast and dinners are incredible. It should be done in advance
Again, none of these are easy hike, except may Lake and all have some form of people close by.
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Re: First time backpacking Yosemite

Postby orion » Thu May 03, 2012 1:16 am

the horde of tourists are in the valley.
the backcountry is more than a days hike from a trailhead.
your middle ground is in the middle
kinda hard to miss
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Re: First time backpacking Yosemite

Postby AlmostThere » Thu May 03, 2012 6:36 am

And then there is Saddlebag Lake, and the lake basin beyond - a ferry across the large lake, good fishing at the inlet, short hike beyond to camp at any of the many lakes and fish. Permitting is through Inyo though you can pick it up at the Tuolumne meadows wilderness office, and no quotas. Often there are many people but it's relatively easy to find a secluded spot. It's high, 10,000+ elevation, but beautiful.

The turnoff is beyond the Tioga gate to the east. The scenery is great, and ease of access unparalleled.
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Re: First time backpacking Yosemite

Postby bigplay » Sun May 06, 2012 11:44 pm

This is great information! Thank you so much everyone!
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