East Coast backpacker planning first Yosemite trip

[Rush]

I'm currently planning my first backpacking trip to Yosemite this summer and wanted to run my itinerary by everyone to see if anyone would have any different suggestions. I got to visit Yosemite last summer, but only for one day as it was just a single stop on a two week road trip. It was the one place that I knew I absolutely had to return to some day. I've done plenty of research through the internet, as well as various books and maps. Right now, the plan is to fly into San Jose, rent a car, and drive to the park. I'm using AA miles, so I'm kind of limited in travel windows and airports, but I'll make do. I will be arriving on May 29th in the early AM and returning Jun 5th PM.

Here is the current plan:
May 29th-June 1st -> Panorama Trail to Pohono Trail (1st nights location: Ilillouette Basin)
June 1st-June 4th -> Hetch Hetchy/Lake Vernon Loop (1st nights location: Laurel Lake)
June 4th-June 5th -> Mariposa

First question would obviously be are there any problems with this plan? Having not hiked these trails before, I've read other's reports, looked at elevation profiles, etc in order to estimate how long to spend on each trail. Still, if I'm underestimating any of this, please let me know. I realize I'm criss crossing the park by doing it this way, but it looked to be the only way to plan it with the current trailhead availability report. I'll also be planning a second trip in late August to hit the higher elevation areas, so that plays into why I'm wanting to hit these areas now.

Right now the plan is to just reserve a spot in Mariposa and do some easy day hikes the next day. I didn't see any overnight hikes in this area, are there any as I much prefer backcountry camping?

Since I'm doing two consecutive hikes, do I need to fill out two separate Wilderness Permit apps? Or can I combine them both onto one using 1st, 2nd choice?

Any other suggestions, especially since I'll be hiking solo?

Thanks in advance!

[AlmostThere]

Yes , you need to separate permits for those two backpacking trips . They are in very different parts of the park and are quite a drive apart . I am a little concerned about how much hiking you would be doing on the first of june because you will need to be off the trail, resupplied, in a vehicle for an hour - There are no shuttle buses to Hetch Hetchy from whatever trailhead you're coming out at - and at the Hetch Hetchy trailhead before the gate closes at sundown .

You'll want to review the wilderness page on the Yosemite website to be sure you know about the camping restrictions along the pohono trail . You will also need to get a bear canister if you're not already aware of this .

Laurel Lake is a hard first day if you are not accustomed to hiking at elevation . You may want to set an alternate scenario to spend the night perhaps at Miguel Meadow .

The area around Mariposa is either national Forest or private property . The only maintained trail that I am aware of is hite cove which is along the road on the way to El portal in the merced river canyon. You can spend a night there but may need a permit from sierra national forest bass lake office.

Edited to add: How do you feel about snow? If there are storms between now and the end of May, there may be obscured trails at higher elevations. If no storms, most of it may be gone - but large patches can be enough to confuse you. And then there is the danger of high water in creeks and rivers, due to snowmelt.

[AlmostThere]

If I were you I would simplify things by getting a single permit for four to six days in the Hetch Hetchy area and do a nice leisurely loop through some very scenic country . There is a nice loop of about 30 miles to possible with the longer option if you feel like more of a challenge however I would caution you to do the shorter leisurely option if you're not accustomed to Elevation over 6000 feet. This is also a less populated area and will not have huge amounts of day hiker traffic .

[Grzldvt]

I am with AlmostThere on this one. A bigger loop around hetch Hetchy might be the ticket. Trying to plan a trip in the early part of the season can get dicey. yes this is California, but Yosemite is in the mountains and subject to some serious inclement weather in the winter, spring and early summer. Having said that, at that time of year based on what has happened with our weather, you will most likely be in snow either at Glacier Point or just below it. You need to monitor the weather and the temps in the park as you get closer. Last year we had very little snow and this was possible, the year before, in 2011 they just got the roads open in mid June and we hiked at 8000 feet in 3-4 feet of snow, and didn't lose it until we got down to roughly 6500 feet.

So this is not a bad trip and certainly doable if the snow clears.
Personally I am not sure why Mariposa. I would spend that time in the park, unless you are talking about the Mariposa Grove area.

[Rush]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to look at m detailed plans again to reply to some of the comments, which I will have to do later. I can answer a couple of the questions now though.

Yes, I do have a bear canister. I backpacked a few days in Alaska a few years ago and were required to have them there as well. I know that's a standard question for anyone coming from outside though, and I'm sure plenty of people don't come prepared.

On 6/1, I was planning on exiting Pohono early AM, driving to HH, and then just hike as far in as I could for the first day. I put Laurel Lake because that was the only location I could find close to the trailhead where people had mentioned camping. I don't have the maps right in front of me, so I don't recall exactly how far of a hike that was, but is there someplace closer you would recommend? I'll look at Miguel meadow as well. Isn't there a backpackers campground at HH as well? I reckon I could just stay there the first night. Again, I'll look at all this when I get home later this evening (early afternoon your time).

Mariposa: I definitely meant Mariposa Grove. Sorry, wasn't aware of the difference between the two. I really just want to see that area because the largest tree I've ever seen, I could still wrap my arms around. Now, I'm a pretty tall guy, but I don't think it's anything in comparison to the trees in that area. That day is also just an extra day given that I finish the other hikes on time. I want to have that extra day's time should I need it for one of the longer hikes I was planning.

Snow: I was under the impression that snow would be melted at that time of the year. I think the information I read was that the park would be clear up to 8,000 ft in June. Obviously, you can't control the weather, but I had originally planned this for earlier in May and added an additional two weeks to make sure I would have clear paths. Should I look at the flight windows and possibly add more time? Possibly the week after Father's Day? When would be the earliest time to have a fairly accurate guess as to how clear the trails would be? I also want to make sure I get some good shots while the waterfalls are flowing, so that's why I chose those trails and this time of year. I'm planning another trip for two weeks in late August and am looking at doing the N Rim, Half Dome, Clouds Rest, and Mt Dana.

[AlmostThere]

You can camp in Mariposa Grove - but only between December 1 and April 15. I'm going in March. However, the grove makes a great day hike.

Are you going to leave the car at tunnel view, or in the trailhead parking near Curry? Are the free shuttles running early enough that this is not going to be an issue for you? Because it can take you a half day just walking back to the car when you exit Pohono trail - you're hiking the distance you backpacked, back to the car. It's a slow drive to Hetch Hetchy and you must get there before the gate closes. There is a backpacker campground. The first legal camping is either Miguel Meadow or Rancheria Falls. It's going to be a difficult exposed climb to Miguel Meadow and another long climb to Laurel Lake.

Snow is *sometimes* melted that time of year, but I wouldn't bet on it. That depends entirely on the weather between now and then. You can have snow lingering some years into August, at 9000 and above.While it's not as deep as it's been in previous years, there's been some really cold weather these past weeks - it's freezing every night in Fresno, at 500 feet elevation, which means it's much colder in Yosemite - and I'd guess we're going to have snow around for a bit longer.

Clear up to 8000 feet in June still leaves you with variable coverage in May below 8000, and sometimes in shaded areas it can still be significant enough that you're postholing. Best to plan for that if you have to go in May.

[Rush]

OK, new plan...

If I fly into LAX and take the Amtrak into the park, my trip will be much more flexible (and won't have to pay for a rental car which will sit idle for days). Here's what I'm thinking. Scratch Hetch Hetchy, and instead do the North Rim. When I arrive at the park, the Amtrak bus will drop off at Curry Village, where I can put my extra supplies in one of the coin lockers. Take the park shuttle to Cathedral Beach and hike to Rockslides trailhead. Start at the Old Big Oak Flat Road trail and head to Cascade Creek for the first nights camp. Allot 3 nights/4 days for the N Rim hike. Then resupply in Curry Village, and hit the Panorama Trail to Pohono Trail. Again allot 3 nights/4 days, exit Pohono and hike back to Cathedral Beach and take the shuttle back to the village and stay the final night in the backpackers camp, shower up, head back to LA, and see an Angles game before flying out. Does that sound better?

Would I only need one wilderness permit for this plan? I don't see the Rock Slides trailhead anywhere on the Wilderness page, do I just list the Old Big Oak Flat Road?

Now that I'm flying into LAX, I can choose any dates. When would be the best time for this trip? Would the second week of June work? Again, want to get some good shots of the waterfalls and preferably no major hiking through snow/ice.

[AlmostThere]

An extra step is needed - stopping at the wilderness center for your permit. If it is not reserved, this needs to be timed to when the office opens. You may be forced to a walk in because your window of opportunity for reserving dates five months out is narrow - beyond may trailhead quotas are in force. Those are popular trailheads in spring.

you need to talk to a ranger in the wilderness office about needing two permits. My understanding has been that leaving the wilderness and then re-entering, you must get another permit. The valley floor is not wilderness.

[Rush]

It's $10, I'll just submit two.

Happy Isles-> Illilouette only has one day that is currently full, Old Big Oak Flat isn't even listed yet. I'm going to submit the application as soon as I get these dates nailed down.

[dan]

OK, new plan...
If I fly into LAX and take the Amtrak into the park, my trip will be much more flexible (and won't have to pay for a rental car which will sit idle for days)

I recommend something closer, such as the Fresno-Yosemite Airport (FAT):
http://www.flyfresno.com/

The problem with LAX-Amtrak: You fly in LAX (western LA), take a shuttle to Union Station at downtown LA. There is *NO* train service over the Techapachi (sp) mountains (north), so you take a Amtrak bus that connects with the end of the tracks in Bakersfield, CA. Then ride the train a short distance to Merced. Take a bus from Merced to Yosemite Valley. That's a lot of transfers--a lot of places things can go wrong.

That said, I enjoy riding trains and I find that leg of the trip worthwhile.

[AlmostThere]

Note however that there are no shuttles, busses or trains that go to Yosemite from Fresno - that would have to be a short Amtrak or Greyhound hop to Merced, to catch the YARTS.

[Rush]

Fresno would be ideal, but I'm using airline miles so am limited on travel dates/options. I also went to school with one of the Angels players, so this will give me a chance to go see him and watch a game.

I take it that since the focus is now on where I'm flying into, the actual planned hike is a lot better now?

[AlmostThere]

It works better even if LAX is off the table since the rim trails are at about 7 - 8000 feet for the most part, which minimizes the snow issue. There will still be patchy snow in the shaded sections of both trails but by mid - late May that will be minimal. Those are popular early season hikes. A lot of the trail is exposed which gets it clear sooner than some of the higher ones, and there are bridges over the major creeks that would otherwise be dangerous to cross that time of year.

The road to Mariposa Grove just opened (tho you still need chains right now). If there is no significant snow in the next three months, that means significant melting. If it's like last year and snow happens in April and late as early May that will change. The grove itself ranges up to 7 - 7500 feet. We may not have to put on snowshoes until we're farther up this coming month.

[whitefam5]

Rush I have done a lot of hiking over in hetch hetcy and I can tell you that it is a pretty good hike up from the dam to the lake laurel… On the trial there is a stop where I always camp and it is call beehive. There is a spring box there with great water(filter just to make sure its safe). There is a nice campsite on the other side of the big log on the ground. There are active bears around this campsite but I have not ever had any problems. Laurel lake is about a mile from the junction at beehive. If you go over to laurel lake from beehive you have to cross a creek and if the water is flowing it can be waist deep and moving fast and cold with no way of going around or rock jumping. hope this info helps you

[AlmostThere]

Hetch Hetchy road is "closed indefinitely" due to a slide.

Don't count on it opening by June.