First time to Yosemite, looking for general advice

[NakedT]

Hi folks. I'm looking for a fair amount of advice with assorted questions. Thanks for any help.

This will be my first time coming to Yosemite. I will be in California from July 24-August 2 with no specific plans yet. Flying into SF, need to be near Taho for a wedding at the end. Have basic camping gear. Did a lot of Boy Scout stuff back in the day, but am a bit rusty. Gradually stocking up on gear but will definitely need to get more for this trip. Looking to spend somewhere between 2 and 5 nights somewhere in the park.

I don't have any reservations yet (car camping reservations filled up, trailhead stuff mostly filled on the "good" hikes). First question is about the logistics of the first-come-first-serve system for both car camping and backpacking. How does it work? Any suggestions? What does it take to get into a site or get a trail permit on site?

For drive up camping (if I can get a site), what are your thoughts on logistics of day hikes? Is there easy parking near the main trailheads for day hikes? Shuttle system? How crowded is it?

For backpacking, what are the logistics? I've picked up some from investigating the permit system. Are there actual campsites that are approved for sleeping in each night, or is it a wilderness free for all? I read something about the first night sometimes being at a specific location from the trailhead and after that you're on your own.

What's the water situation while backpacking? Obviously, it varies by trail. I know there's a lot of creeks and streams, but are they pretty much everywhere? Will a water filter and a couple nalgenes get you through?

Weather/temperature advice?

Thanks for any help or advice. I can only pick up so much information reading the park information and formal websites.

[Grzldvt]

Hi folks. I'm looking for a fair amount of advice with assorted questions. Thanks for any help.

This will be my first time coming to Yosemite. I will be in California from July 24-August 2 with no specific plans yet. Flying into SF, need to be near Taho for a wedding at the end. Have basic camping gear. Did a lot of Boy Scout stuff back in the day, but am a bit rusty. Gradually stocking up on gear but will definitely need to get more for this trip. Looking to spend somewhere between 2 and 5 nights somewhere in the park.

I don't have any reservations yet (car camping reservations filled up, trailhead stuff mostly filled on the "good" hikes). First question is about the logistics of the first-come-first-serve system for both car camping and backpacking. How does it work? Any suggestions? What does it take to get into a site or get a trail permit on site?
Keep trying the Toulumne Meadows campground, I have been amazed at what people have been able to snag at the last minute. DO NOT BUY ANY SPOTS FROM ANYONE ON CRAIGSLIST.

For backpacking what kind of shape are you in? Makes a huge difference in making a recommendation. For instance an awesome trip, and usually available on a fist come, first serve is out of Mono Pass, off of Tioga Road. You have to get past the Parker Pass sign before you can camp. But it is at 10,000 feet so while the actual hike is not that physical, that altitude will get you if you are not in shape.
Spend the first night past Parker Pass, the second day a hike over Koip Peak(very strenuous, but incredible views), spend the second night at one of the Sardine Lakes and enjoy some incredible geology. 3rd day head back over Koip Peak, camp somewhere along the way back, and the 4th day back to the car.

In fair shape, see if you can get into Saddlebag Lake. A great place to spend a few days just hiking around.
Same goes for Lyell Canyon, but it is tough to get a permit.


For drive up camping (if I can get a site), what are your thoughts on logistics of day hikes? Is there easy parking near the main trailheads for day hikes? Shuttle system? How crowded is it?
Definitely fairly easy to park near any day hike routes. Cathedral lakes and Sunrise trailhead can get incredibly crowded, but there are plenty of other area to go to. You can hike down the Glen Aulin trail cross the five creek beads and watch for a huge wide open granite area, and head up - 360 degree views of Yosemite. Pothole Dome is simply amazing at the top.

For backpacking, what are the logistics? I've picked up some from investigating the permit system. Are there actual campsites that are approved for sleeping in each night, or is it a wilderness free for all? I read something about the first night sometimes being at a specific location from the trailhead and after that you're on your own.
The will explain how far you need to go from each trailhead, but generally it is 4 miles and they want you to use an existing site

What's the water situation while backpacking? Obviously, it varies by trail. I know there's a lot of creeks and streams, but are they pretty much everywhere? Will a water filter and a couple nalgenes get you through?
Yes a water filter is needed and will work. I usually go with two Nalgenes, one is pure water the other is a sport drink(I use a product called Superfizz as it is a super electrolyte replacement drink)

Weather/temperature advice? Going to be 70's 80's during the day and could be anywhere from the high 30's to the low 50's at night. the end of July the showers and storms are really subsiding, so you can have blue sky for the entire trip, with an occasional storm in the afternoon.

Thanks for any help or advice. I can only pick up so much information reading the park information and formal websites.

[balzaccom]

Good advice here.

If this is your first time in Yosemite, there is so much to see that you really don't need to focus on backpacking. Get a campsite, and day hike all the great dayhikes: Panorama Trail, NEvada and Vernal Falls, Cloud's Rest, Gaylor Lakes, Yosemite Falls, Pothole dome or Lembert Dome, North Dome, Sentinel Dome and Taft Point...the list goes on an on.

Here' a little advice on getting a campsite: they will be full if you arrive in the afternoon. If you can find ANYPLACE to stay outside of the park, leave early the next day and hang out at one of the less trafficked campgrounds: Crane Flat, Hodgdon MEadows, Porcupine Flat...and you will probably get a site fairly easily.

Another option is to get a backpacking permit for ANY trail at all. That allows you to stay in one of the backpackers' campgrounds the night before your permit...and one night AFTER your permit. If you stay in the backpackers' campground the night after your permit, you will be in ideal position to get one of the early campsites at a nearby campground the next day...

[NakedT]

We're both in pretty solid shape, but haven't done much hiking. We trained for a half-marathon that happened in March. She played soccer in college and I've been active most of my life. We're not super athletes, but certainly in better shape than the average American (not always saying much). Both more on the coordinated side than strength side. Elevation will be a shock (we're from the low-lying Eastern US).

So differing opinions on Car vs Backpacking. I'm back and forth on which would be better. Car is obviously easier logistically, can see the big day hike things, but isn't quite the same camping experience (for better or worse, I suppose). Backpacking more involved, but you're limiting yourself to one general path/trail.

If I had to put you on the spot and say: where would you go with 4 days and 3 nights in Yosemite and showing a new person around? (maybe an extra day night if loving it). I'm currently overwhelmed by choices! (from everywhere online and in general).

I imagine there's not really any way to "go wrong" with this. It's all going to be awesome.

Another logistics question: If we show up (say) Monday morning, get a first-come backpacking permit for Tuesday, we can go to the backpackers campground for Monday night? So we could do some day hiking Monday, backpacking campground, head into the woods Tuesday? Could be a good option.

Thanks so much!

[Grzldvt]

We're both in pretty solid shape, but haven't done much hiking. We trained for a half-marathon that happened in March. She played soccer in college and I've been active most of my life. We're not super athletes, but certainly in better shape than the average American (not always saying much). Both more on the coordinated side than strength side. Elevation will be a shock (we're from the low-lying Eastern US).

So differing opinions on Car vs Backpacking. I'm back and forth on which would be better. Car is obviously easier logistically, can see the big day hike things, but isn't quite the same camping experience (for better or worse, I suppose). Backpacking more involved, but you're limiting yourself to one general path/trail.
I prefer backpacking myself, but as you stated there are some real advantages to car camping, food is better, sleeping is potentially better.

If I had to put you on the spot and say: where would you go with 4 days and 3 nights in Yosemite and showing a new person around? (maybe an extra day night if loving it). I'm currently overwhelmed by choices! (from everywhere online and in general).
I would consider Glacier Point to Red Peak Pass via Illilouette Creek, over the Pass, and through Little Yosemite Valley, back to Glacier. As a second choice the Koip Peak Pass trip is also pretty incredible. However I do caution people that the climb to the top of the pass has a lot of switchbacks.
I imagine there's not really any way to "go wrong" with this. It's all going to be awesome.

Another logistics question: If we show up (say) Monday morning, get a first-come backpacking permit for Tuesday, we can go to the backpackers campground for Monday night? So we could do some day hiking Monday, backpacking campground, head into the woods Tuesday? Could be a good option.
Yes, that is a great option

Thanks so much!

[NakedT]

I would consider Glacier Point to Red Peak Pass via Illilouette Creek, over the Pass, and through Little Yosemite Valley, back to Glacier. As a second choice the Koip Peak Pass trip is also pretty incredible. However I do caution people that the climb to the top of the pass has a lot of switchbacks.

[/quote]

Approximately where would you stay each night? Estimate on daily mileage? This sounds like a good option (and permits still available for Glacier to Illilouette right now).

[NakedT]

Also, do you have to exit where you enter? (other than dealing with your own car, of course).

[Grzldvt]

I would consider Glacier Point to Red Peak Pass via Illilouette Creek, over the Pass, and through Little Yosemite Valley, back to Glacier. As a second choice the Koip Peak Pass trip is also pretty incredible. However I do caution people that the climb to the top of the pass has a lot of switchbacks.

Approximately where would you stay each night? Estimate on daily mileage? This sounds like a good option (and permits still available for Glacier to Illilouette right now).[/quote]
First night would be as far up Illiloutte Canyon as you can get. There is camping almost everywhere. Second night go over the pass and camp just below it on the other side. Third night, I would try and get to the Merced High Sierra camp, and the 4th night Little Yosemite Valley, with the 5th day back to Glacier Point. Yes you can finish where you started at Glacier Point.