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2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Hiking, backpacking, running, biking, climbing, rafting, and other human-powered activities in Yosemite National Park

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2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby Frosty » Mon Sep 23, 2013 1:59 pm

Hi all,

I hope someone can help me whittle down my options here, because my eyeballs are swimming! My GF and I are going to be in Yosemite for 4 days in the middle of October and were hoping to get in a wilderness trek with a night of camping out in the park. We thought we had done quite well with our research, eventually settling on a pretty great looking loop out of Lyell Canyon (http://www.everytrail.com/guide/lyell-canyon-vogelsang-loop). Unfortunately, today I went to call in the reservation and I learned of the overnight parking restrictions up in Toulumne Meadows -- turns out we don't really have the transportation to get up there/back and thye suggested that the weather was pretty unpredictable up there. The gentleman from the park suggested I look farther south, but I haven't been able to nail down anything that has jumped out at me as amazing.

We're both in decent but not amazing shape and were looking for something not too crowded. My ideal trail is a loop so we can constantly be seeing new things, preferably with some spots to tank up on water along the way with our purifier. We're also not super experienced wilderness hikers, but I like to think we're not idiots either -- which is why I've ruled out any of the cross-country options. Can anyone suggest any trails that might be close to what we're looking for? Any help at all is appreciated!
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby RickM » Mon Sep 23, 2013 2:41 pm

Mid-October may be a little too late for the high country. Perhaps overnighting in Yosemite Valley and taking day hikes would be better given the late date. Just a thought.
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby AlmostThere » Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:24 pm

Farther south? Not sure what he meant but you will run into the same issues anywhere in the central Sierra. I go for day trips but always with a shovel and chains in the car. Winter backpacking requires skills that you seem to say you don't have (in snow all trips are cross country).

Suggest camping in Yosemite valley - this is a great time for it. No crowds, good hiking, and you can come back to hot chocolate and dinner at the Ahwahnee if you like. I often drove up to study in the bar at the lodge in winter - wifi and a hot toddy got me through the master's program.
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby ODS » Wed Sep 25, 2013 12:11 pm

I target the first or second weekend of October every year for my backpacking trips in Yosemite. I don't think snow is a concern at all, and you would be able to know in advance if you are only doing a 2 day 1 night trip. SO... don't worry about snow at all.

My suggestion if you are new to backpacking is to target Little Yosemite Valley campground or one of the High Sierra Camps possibly. Though this late in the season the HSC aren't going to have much but could have a few people around. LYV is great, but it won't give you any of the seclusion and privacy of picking your own place out in the backcountry.

If you're from CA and can get to Yosemite easily and this is the start of your backpacking then I would suggest a hike from Glacier Point to LYV and exit via Happy Isles. You can hike to LYV from Glacier Point in a half day easy, I've done it in 3 hours. You could wake up in LYV early and go for a day hike up towards Clouds Rest (maybe all the way to the top, but that's gonna be a long hard day hike) and still have time to pack up and get down to the valley from LYV. From LYV to Happy Isles trailhead can be from 2-4 hours but probably no more, so if you left LYV by 2PM you would be able to make it down to Happy Isles trailhead no problem.

You can usually catch a bus to Glacier Point from Yosemite Lodge and thus leave your car in the valley.
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby AlmostThere » Wed Sep 25, 2013 12:18 pm

I ALWAYS go backpacking in early October - and I would NEVER tell anyone, let alone someone traveling a distance or a beginner, not to worry about snow in October.

October is winter, whether we like to imagine otherwise or not.

I ALWAYS get snowed on in October - enough to obscure trails, even if it's just an inch or two.

It is irresponsible, IMO, to recommend to anyone to NEVER be concerned about winter conditions as a possibility in winter - and my brothers in Yosemite SAR will be thankful if you would take more care in recommendations in the future.
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby ODS » Wed Sep 25, 2013 12:26 pm

Well easy there with the ALL CAPS.

I will stop posting here if need be, but I don't recall a single snow fall in the LYV area in early October in the past 10 years. And if it would snow 1. you would hear about it coming if you're only planning on a 2 day 1 night trip and you could cancel, or 2) it would most likely be an unexpected night time storm and melted by morning, but I like the idea of scaring away newcomers if that's your plan!
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby AlmostThere » Wed Sep 25, 2013 12:30 pm

There was snow earlier this month.

The NPs and NFs all require you to have snow cables or chains in the car for the reasons quoted - snow falls starting in September, and falls and sticks typically in late October - November.

Not all weather tells you it's coming - I've turned around and headed back for the car when temps fell well below forecast and I was with people who don't pay attention to the fact that it can snow any day of the year up there. The forecast said nothing about below-freezing temps, hail or snow - and it was early August.
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby Grzldvt » Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:54 pm

Ok, I will jump in here. I have watched this debate go on, and went back and looked at my pictures, as I don't ever recall being snowed on in late September up until Mid October.
Since 1988, I was snowed on once in 2003, and again in 2007, so for 23 years of late September/Mid October backpacking, 23 of them have been snow free. Several were up until Oct 15th Doesn't mean tomorrow it won't snow. but i am a bit baffled as to where all this is coming from.
The fall has had some of the absolute best trips I have taken. Warm days, calm nights. I love it, and look forward to it every year.
This year two of us are going this weekend down the Toulumne to cross it and work our way up to McGee Lake.
For 7 years from 1989 until 1999, I did a run that was always the 1st Saturday in October. We went from Toulumne Meadows over Clouds Rest and finished in the amphitheater on the Valley Floor. 26.8 miles for those counting. Every year was simply spectacular, 70's, clear and sunny, some years we had a few clouds, but never had any inclement weather.
So i have to go with ODS, I simply haven't seen the inclement weather
Steve
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby AlmostThere » Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:03 am

Here's the deal:

When people don't post on these Yosemite forums what their level of experience is, don't assume it.

People like me go backpacking in September and October, November, December, and enjoy it because I have gear to spare and winter shelters and layers of down. People who travel here from outside California frequently don't understand that wind chill can take the temps *any month of the year* below 20 F. I end up loaning my gear to them sometimes.

You do no favors to anyone by saying "no sweat, no problem, you'll enjoy it." Until you know for sure that folks are not carrying cheapo gear that won't be warm at 40F you can't say that. Hopefully they are going to REI or similar and renting gear - but often people show up at Happy Isles with a monsterous pack full of cheap gear from Big 5. They look absolutely miserable hiking and end up doing things like sleeping in the restroom stalls in the two story solar toilet in Little Yosemite Valley. EXPERIENCE has taught me these things - witnessed this behavior and more, plenty of times.

Yosemite has already had several inches of snow. It's gone now, but, the forecasts for the area are in the low 30F range at night, which means that it will be much colder than the average tourist enjoys in the mid elevations. Not everyone enjoys conditions like these. So if the OP has not had any winter experience, it would be more comfortable - and safer, yes - to do something else in Yosemite.

I'll repeat it so you can understand - there can be weather any month up there, and there has been. You are correct that it's not a frequent occurrence. But one need only view the grids of closing dates for the pass and Glacier Point Rd to see that it has happened in September, meaning that some years, there has been significant weather early. And the forecasts are NOT WARM right now. tonight, Yosemite VALLEY - not LYV which can easily be 10-20 degrees colder - is forecasted at a "balmy" 28F.

Here is what's brewing this week 10 miles east of Yosemite Valley:

Today A 20 percent chance of snow showers before 11am. Partly sunny, with a high near 43. Northeast wind around 10 mph becoming west northwest in the afternoon. Winds could gust as high as 15 mph.
Tonight Partly cloudy, with a low around 18. West northwest wind 10 to 15 mph becoming east after midnight.
Friday Sunny, with a high near 50. East wind 5 to 10 mph becoming north in the afternoon.
Friday Night Mostly clear, with a low around 24. East northeast wind around 5 mph becoming calm in the evening.
Saturday Sunny, with a high near 56. Light and variable wind becoming west southwest 5 to 10 mph in the afternoon.
Saturday Night Mostly clear, with a low around 27. West wind 5 to 10 mph becoming south in the evening.

It's primo hypothermia weather during the day. No problem if you are prepared.
Last edited by AlmostThere on Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby AlmostThere » Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:32 am

Short Range Forecast Discussion
NWS Weather Prediction Center College Park MD
323 AM EDT Thu Sep 26 2013

Valid 12Z Thu Sep 26 2013 - 12Z Sat Sep 28 2013

***Active weather pattern over the Rockies***

***Nice weather continues for the Northeastern U.S.***

***Another storm system entering the Pacific Northwest***

The main weather maker for the continental U.S. will be a storm system
traversing the Rocky Mountains and the High Plains for Thursday and
Friday. A well defined cold front extending from Manitoba to the Four
Corners region will usher in a colder airmass from western Canada. As a
result, significant snowfall is likely for the higher elevations of
Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming through Thursday night, and winter weather
advisories and winter storm warnings are in effect for some of these
areas. Patchy areas of rain are expected for the lower elevations.

Farther to the north from Virginia to New England, an autumnal and high
quality airmass is forecast to remain in place over the next couple of
days. This surface ridge of high pressure will bring continued fall-like
weather with highs in the 60s and 70s, and lows in the 40s and 50s, along
with lower humidity. The weather over the Southeast should gradually
improve through the end of the week as the surface low along the
stationary front moves out to sea.

Elsewhere, another round of rain and high mountain snow is forecast for
the Pacific Northwest with another cold front and shortwave aloft
approaching the region.
Towards the weekend, this moisture should make
its way toward the Northern Rockies. Warm and humid weather is expected
to continue for Texas and the Deep South.
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby Frosty » Thu Sep 26, 2013 1:05 pm

Wow, well that sure started a discussion!

So first of all let me say that we plan on being prepared for whatever happens -- including scrapping the hike if it's crappy out. We're also using decent quality gear from REI, not a bunch of Wal-Mart nonsense. Being from Chicago helps with the cold tolerance too 8)

Anyway, I got in touch with another ranger who pointed out a pretty neat trail that was hidden by the legend on the official trailheads pdf. Down near Wawona there's a climb up to the Chilnualna Falls which then opens up into a nice loop with a bunch of lakes along it, going around Buena Vista peak. It sounds both challenging and fun, and being below the fire line is a nice bonus too! Anyone have any opinions of that trail?

The Yosemite Valley day hikes are our backup and what we plan to do before/after this big one. I've done the Glacier Point down to the valley trail before -- gorgeous & easy. The exact day we're trying to do this just happens to also be the exact day that the shuttles stop and overnight parking is no longer permitted on Tioga & GP Road, which was why we were a bit limited.

Thanks for the input everyone!
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby ODS » Thu Sep 26, 2013 2:35 pm

Though I have not hiked down in that area, my friend just returned Sunday from a Glacier Point to Happy Isles 4 day hike that went down that way past Royal Arch Lake up Past Upper and Lower Merced Pass Lakes and back to Happy Isles. He said it was an excellent trip and that Buena Vista Lake was a great lunch stop and though they didn't stop for that long to scope out camping situation he said it would have been a beautiful lake to camp at. So if you could get to there in one day that's something....
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby ODS » Thu Sep 26, 2013 2:35 pm

PS ... though winds could of course change, he said no impact from fire at all except a haze to the north on some days.
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby AlmostThere » Thu Sep 26, 2013 7:28 pm

The area uphill from Chilnualna is quite nice this time of year - in spring it is a righteous mosquito bog, right now it should be fine. If wet. It'll be cold, too - there were subzero temps at Tuolumne Meadows, right around 9,000 feet, and the area from Chilnualna north to Glacier Point Road is generally 7,000 - 8,700 or so, kind of a rolling forested area. With a slight warming trend happening as the week progresses it should be in the high thirties most places - though camping in a river bottom or next to a creek will be colder than that.

There is snow on the crest, visible from 395. There is patchy snow on trails in the parks. It is currently snowing like a mofo at 8,000 feet in Sierra National Forest. Some folks who went to Young Lakes last weekend got several inches of snow and were able to navigate out anyway saving another couple by leaving footprints for them to follow. Don't forget the rain gear....
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Re: 2 Day Backpacking Trip Ideas?

Postby Frosty » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:56 pm

Good to know, thanks -- that jives with what I've read so far. Been using this weather report at the falls to get a general idea of what we're dealing with:

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=37.566930&lon=-119.614255

As for Buena Vista Lake, I've been trying to decide...most of what I've read has people doing the loop north side first, which would bring us to precisely that spot for the first night. However, that route will require us to do all of the 5400ft elevation gain in day 1. Taking the southern side first allows us to split that into 4500/900 with a gentler grade -- we would probably be checking out Crescent Lake for the night if we did it that way.
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