Guardians of the Yosemite (1961) by John W. Bingaman

Contents

- Title Page

- Contents

- Guide Map of Yosemite National Park

- Foreword

- Preface

1. A Tender Foot

2. Guiding Dudes

3. Ranger Life in the Park

4. Ranger Duties in a National Park

5. Ranger Patrols

6. Forest Fires

7. Accidents—Lost People—and Rescues

8. Veeps—Special Guests and Old Timers

9. Some Unusual Experiences

10. Hospital and Medical Service

11. Fish Planting—Hatchery—and Wild Life

12. Chasing Law Breakers

13. World War II Conditions in Yosemite

14. Civilian Conservation Camps

15. Sierra Club of California

16. Concessionaire—Hikers Camps—Lodges

17. Wawona District and People

18. Mather Ranger District and Hetch Hetchy

19. Tuolumne Meadow District Ranger Station

20. Yosemite Indians

21. When Retirement Comes

22. Part II—History of “The First Rangers”

23. Part III—Civilian Superintendents—Assistant Superintendents and Naturalists of Yosemite National Park

- Yosemite‘s First Superintendent Under Park Service Status

- Assistant Superintendents of Yosemite

- Park Naturalists of Yosemite National Park

24. Part IV—The Second Decade—A New Era—Increased Use and Expansion

- Reference—Old Timers and Early Park Employees of Yosemite National Park

- References

Photographs

- Ranger Bingaman, 1921, on mounted patrol in the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees

- The author (Bingaman) guiding dudes, 1918

- Glacier Point Hotel. Bingamans spent the winter of 1919-1920 as manager.

- The Bingamans’ residence, 1921-1922. “The Old Fiske House”

- Yosemite Ranger Force 1924—Nelson, Sault, Silva, Bingaman, Rich, Adair, Wegner, Skelton, Boothe, Townsley.

- Pate Valley Indian Pictographs in the Tuolumne Canyon, Yosemite National Park

- 1925 Graham Dodge Truck—First Yosemite fire truck

- Park Rangers on rescue of visitor—1921

- Ranger Billy Nelson. The old camp ground ranger.

- Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt on inspection trip of the C.C.C. Camp at Wawona. A Ranger escort.

- Alder Creek Entrance Station, 1926—Wawona Road

- Ranger Eastman on patrol near Lake Eleanor, 1925

- Ranger Adair and Rusty on patrol

- Kenneyville, 1918. My first job in Yosemite started here.

- Sentinel Hotel in the early days of horse stages.

- A Dude Party camping in Hetch Hetchy, 1918

- Wawona Hotel

- Ranger Bingaman escorting a party of special visitors through the Big Trees, 1921

- Hetch Hetchy Valley, 1913, before dam was built. Looking back towards Rancheria and Le Conte Point. Kolana Rock at right.

- Hetch Hetchy reservoir, 1924, after Dam was built.

- At the old Indian village about 1905, Yosemite Valley. Bridgeport Tom, Maimie, Leona, baby Agnes (Castro), Ida and Lillian.

- Indian Field Days, 1920, Yosemite Valley.

- “The First Rangers”—1914-1915-1916

- Ranger Andrew Jack Gayler—1907-1921

- The first park office in Old Village up to 1924

- Yosemite Ranger Force—1931

Bibliographical Information

Guardians of the Yosemite A Story of the First Rangers (Desert Printers, 1961), by John Walter Bingaman, Retired District Park Ranger (1896 - 1987). Copyright 1961 by John W. Bingaman. LCCN 61-019697. 123 pages. Illustrated. 23 cm. Paper wrappers. Saddle-stitched. Library of Congress call number F868.Y6 B5

Digitized by Dan Anderson, September 2004, from a copy in the UCSD Library. These files may be used for any non-commercial purpose, provided this notice is left intact.
—Dan Anderson, www.yosemite.ca.us

About the Author

Martha Bingaman,
wife of John Bingaman
(NPS)

John W. Bingaman was born June 18, 1896 in Ohio. He worked for the railroad in New York and California, then made tanks and combines during World War I. He first worked in Yosemite starting in 1918 as a packer and guide. John was appointed park ranger in 1921 and worked in several parts of Yosemite National Park. His wife Martha assisted her husband during the busy summer season. John retired in 1956. After retiring he lived in the desert in Southern California and spent summers touring various mountain areas and National Parks with their trailer. In retirement he wrote this book, Guardians of the Yosemite, The Ahwahneechees: A Story of the Yosemite Indians (1966), and Pathways: A Story of Trails and Men (1968). His autobiography is on pages 98-99 of this book. John’s second wife was Irene. John Bingaman died April 5, 1987 in Stockton, California.

GUARDIANS

of the

YOSEMITE

A Story of the First Rangers

by

JOHN W. BINGAMAN

District Park Ranger (Retired)

Copyright 1961 by

JOHN W. BINGAMAN

Dedicated to my Wife

Martha Bingaman who has given invaluable

help through the years

and

to the First Rangers

Ranger Bingaman, 1921, on mounted patrol in the Mariposa Grove
of Big Trees

CONTENTS

Foreword

4

Preface

5

A Tender Foot

7

Guiding Dudes

9

Ranger Life in the Park

14

Ranger Duties in a National Park

16

Ranger Patrols

19

Forest Fires

27

Accidents—Lost People—and Rescues

31

Veeps—Special Guest[s] and Old Timers

37

Some Unusual Experiences

41

Hospital and Medical Service

48

Fish Planting—Hatchery—and Wild Life

50

Chasing Law Breakers

53

World War II Conditions in Yosemite

55

Civilian Conservation Camps

57

Sierra Club of California

58

Concessionaire—Hikers Camps—Lodges

60

Wawona District and People

63

Guide Map of Yosemite National Park

64

Mather Ranger District and Hetch Hetchy

70

Tuolumne Meadow District Ranger Station

76

Yosemite Indians

77

When Retirement Comes

81

Part II—History of “The First Rangers”

83

Part III—Civilian Superintendents—Assistant Superintendents and
Naturalists of Yosemite National Park

105

Yosemite‘s First Superintendent Under Park Service Status

107

Assistant Superintendents of Yosemite

110

Park Naturalists of Yosemite National Park

111

24. Part IV—The Second Decade—A New Era—Increased Use and Expansion

115

Reference—Old Timers and Early Park Employees of
Yosemite National Park

122

Guide Map of Yosemite National Park

FOREWORD

John W. Bingaman has performed a valuable service in publishing these memoirs and biographical sketches. During the five decades to which his story pertains, the local press, the journals of the day, and an occasional book publicized some of the events here covered by Mr. Bingaman, but a far greater number found no recorder. The story of the old-time park ranger was hidden in Government files and in the secret recesses of the minds of a comparatively few surviving participants.

Mr. Bingaman has assembled the published materials and the manuscripts and from them has drawn the central theme for his little book. Equally important, he has rounded out and clothed the frame-work and given it life by applying to it the flesh-and-blood stories supplied to him by his contemporaries. Needless to say, his own personal experiences have enabled him to give to the story the unmistakable mark of authenticity.

Here is an interesting account of the early-day park ranger—he who took over when the United States Army withdraw from Yosemite. The precedents and practices established by him were all-important in shaping the protection principles which characterize the present-day Ranger Department. His public service was such, that even today the part superintendent, the forester, the interpreter, the uniformed personnel, one and all, are in the eyes of the park visitor, “Oh! Ranger!”

Dr. Carl Parcher Russell

PREFACE

The purpose in writing this book is to leave permanent records of the First Rangers who contributed so much during their long years of service, and to bridge the gap from the military to the civilian protection and administration of Yosemite National Park.

During the years of my service in Yosemite, from 1918 to 1956, I found there was very little information on the lives and activities of the First Rangers. Some of these men were still in service when I became a Ranger. However, many had died and their records were few and scattered.

In the old days, one would hear the remark, “It is a privilege to work for the Park Service.” It was a privilege for me to serve thirty-eight years in the Yosemite Ranger Service, to be associated with the many fine Park people and the guardians and administrators of the National Park Service whose principal purpose was to serve loyally the cause of the parks.

Today more technical training and scientific aids provide many advantages over the pioneer methods. Helicopters and airplane tankers help to fight forest fires and transport men and equipment to the fire line. Most of the fish planting and emergencies, such as rescue operations, are now done by plane.

It is interesting to compare present conditions to those of forty years ago when Superintendent Lewis and Gabriel Sovulewski performed their duties with horse-drawn equipment. Rangers in those days lived under poor housing conditions, and were often shut in without access to the outside for days and sometimes weeks. However, instances of “cabin fever” were rare and there was little grumbling. It took strong characters and a certain dedication to accomplish what there was to do in the pioneer days of the National Park Service. It also took men of courage for some of them died while on duty. I sincerely hope the protective efforts of our First Rangers, other Park Service personnel, mutually interested conservationists and administrators have created such precedents that our National Parks will always be maintained according to the ideals of their original concept:

“The National Parks must be maintained in absolutely unimpaired form for the use of future generations as well as those of our own time.

They are set aside for the use, observation, health and pleasure of the people.

The National interest must dictate all decisions affecting public or private enterprise in the Parks.”

I am indebted to my many friends and fellow Park Service members for the help given me in assembling the material for this book. I am especially grateful to Dr. Carl P. Russell for his help and encouragement; to Park Naturalist Douglass Hubbard of the Yosemite Museum; to Randall Henderson of Palm Desert, California, former Editor of Desert Magazine; to Otis Burton Cannon of Palm Springs, California; to Horace M. Albrought, former Director of the National Park Service.

I am indebted to the following and express thanks to Superintendent John C. Preston, Chief Ranger Fladmark and Staff, for the valuable help in making it possible for me to secure important data and material for this manuscript. To H. R. Sault, Homer Hoyt, Merrill Miller, John Wegner and a few other retired employees and associates that have contributed data and pictures, I am very grateful and give thanks.

Chapter I

A TENDER FOOT

The spring of 1918 several important things happened which changed the whole course of my life. My job making war tanks in the Holt Manufacturing Plant in Stockton, California, had affected my health. I was classified 4-F by the draft board and was told to get out in the clear open air of the mountains to regain my health. So my wife and I went to Yosemite National Park and this changed the pattern of our lives.

The journey was made by train from Stockton to El Portal, the end of the railroad. From there a Park Motor Coach took us to the Yosemite Valley. My wife Martha, her sister and I stayed the first few nights in The Cedar Cottage, near the Sentinel Hotel. Martha was carrying a guitar, her sister a banjo. We were taken for the entertainers and were given first class accommodations which we enjoyed for several days. This ended when the hotel manager asked us to play for a dance and we had to inform him we were not part of the band, that was scheduled for the summer entertainments. The next day we set up our camp equipment in Camp 15, near Kennyville one mile from Park headquarters.

We were thrilled with the sights of the Valley and could hardly take our eyes off the Yosemite Falls. It was late April and the falls were running full fed by the melting snows from the mountain tops. The resounding noise of the falls would keep us awake at night.

The birds and animals were active and we soon made friends with them. Our neighbors the Darl Millers, the Park Blacksmith, warned us about the bear and deer, how they would steal our food and tear our camp apart if they did not find anything to eat. This did occasionally happen to us.

We soon learned many interesting things by hiking over the Valley trails and by studying the flora and fauna of the Park. Soon we were friends with the Park employees and concessionaire families.

A neighbor camper was in the habit of leaving her pet dog loose in the Camp which was against all Park Regulations. One day a Ranger came along about the time the dog was having a good run. The ranger was very firm and business like. He said, “Lady you will have to keep your dog tied up, for if it is caught running loose again it will have to be shot.” The lady camper decided then and there to keep the dog tied up for the ranger’s word was law.

Among our new friends was Jim Helm, Stable Boss at Kennyville, which is now the site of the Ahwahnee Hotel. The old buildings and barns had been used since the 1880’s and were built by Coffman and Kenny, early pioneers in the livery business.

One day Jim Helm called to me and said, “Slim John how would you like to work?” What kind of work? I asked.

“Guiding the dudes up the trails on horseback Jim said. He had asked me some time before about my boyhood days on the farm in Ohio so he assumed that I could ride and handle horses. Then he added. Show up here at the barns at 5 a.m. and help saddle the string of horses and mules. Some sixty riding animals will be going to Glacier Point.”

Helm was a typical old-time cowboy ranch foreman and knew how to get along with both men and animals. There were twenty men employed as guides and to handle the saddle and pack animals. Some two hundred head of stock were used most every day.

I reported at the corral at 5 a.m. as directed. The animals were already tied up at the hitch-racks. A middle aged short man, with a drooping mustache, and dressed in full cowboy regalia spied me and said, “Well don’t sand there, get busy and saddle those sixy head before breakfast. We’ve got work to do.” Right there and then I started my first job in Yosemite.

Andrew Van Riper was the character’s name and he became one of my best friends. He was an early pioneer guide of Yosemite and taught me all the tricks of the trade in handling horses and mules.

That particular day he was head guide. His colorful appearance and air of assurance showed that he knew his job in handling people on the trails. With novices, never having been on a horse or mule before, he would talk to them in a low tone always assuring them that the animal knew just what to do and that all they had to do was hang on.

Andy, as everyone called him, assigned me eight mules with eight women riders. I was given a sleek little mare named Babe. I wondered why Andy gave me all eight women to handle. Every mile he would stop the string and check back to see that they were riding well. I had trouble with two of my riders. Their mules would go out to the edge of the trail on the zig-zags and look over. This made the riders so nervous they were about ready to get off and walk home. I kept assuring them, that this was a natural habit of mules. Finally I decided to bring the two mules and their riders up next to me. From then on they followed close at the heals of my saddle mare. I leared later that these two mules were in the habit of following Babe in the corral and pasture. It is a known fact that certain mules are known to take up with mares and never get out of their sight if they can help it.

We made the trip to Glacier Point via Nevada Falls, then Illilouette Falls and down the Four Mile Trail in safety. That evening at the supper table Andy said, “How did you know what to do up there on the trail? By gosh, you have horse sense.” From that day on we were truly friends and I was accepted as one of the “old hands.”

Chapter II

GUIDING DUDES

During that first summer, I made many trips into the high country over the trails to Merced Lake, Tenaya Lake and Tuolumne Meadows guiding visitors to the various places for camping, fishing and sight-seeing.

One back country pack trip into the North End of the Park was with a grand party consisting of Lou Foster, Mr and Mrs Keichler and Mr and Mrs Woods all from San Rafael. Ned Pariare was our head guide. I was the packer. We had six pack mules and it was a job to round these up in the mountain meadows and get them packed for our trip each day. We used saddle horses for riding.

One night we camped in the Hetch Hetchy Valley some thirty miles north of Yosemite Valley, on the Tuolumne River. The valley compares favorable to the Yosemite with the river winding through tall stands of pine. The meadow flowers were in full bloom at the time and it was a camper’s paradise. Riding through the Jack Main Canyon we could see herds of cattle grazing in the park meadows. This was allowed during the first World War as a war time measure. We made the circle route returning via Tuolumne Meadows without mishap. Everybody in the party enjoyed the trip.

Another fine camping trip was with the Dibblie Party of four. Ned Pariare the guide, Wilbur Bronner and myself packers and cooks. We were out one month in the north end of the Park, going in via the Hetch Hetchy Valley, Jack Main Canyon, Stubblefield, Kerrick Canyon to Benson Lake and out via Matterhorn and Virginia Canyon.

One day in Matterhorn Canyon we met three women hikers leading three burros. They had just entered the Canyon by way of Benson Pass. The hikers were Mary Curry, Edith Benjamin and Carol Weston. They made camp near us and that evening we all gathered around the camp fire. Carol Weston played her violin, Edith and Mary led the singing.

That night a Mountain Lion came near camp and stampeded our stock. They ran up and down the canyon and nearly wrecked our camp. We were worried about the stock and particularly the safety of the burros as burro meat is a favorite food of the mountain lion. The burros, however, were smart and took shelter back of our camp. When it got light enough to see the trail it was obvious that the lion had been curious about the campfire and had come within three hundred feet of it before going up the other side of the canyon. The following day we broke camp and went our separate ways. After several days’ travel our party returned to Tuolumne Meadows and Yosemite Valley.

On another trip I had the pleasure of guiding Edward M. Groth, U.S. Consul General in South Africa, on a three day camping trip. He had been

The author (Bingaman) guiding dudes, 1918

in many parts of the world but loved our Park and was a true friend of the Park Service.

When Stephen T. Mather, Director of National Parks and Secretary Albert Fall came to the Park on an inspection tour they camped near my Ranger Station for several days. It was my pleasure to be their escort and guide on a trip to the Waterwheel Falls.

During the winter of 1920 Tom Farrow, the Company Manager, thought it would be a good idea to keep about ten head of horses in the Valley to draw the bobsleds and cutters. I was assigned to take charge.

When the snows came in December I often hitched up the bob sled with the two trusty team horses, and went down to the Sentinel Hotel. There would usually be five to eight guests who wanted a sleigh ride around the Valley. A favorite horse, was Old Pleasanton, a pacer who made a beautiful sight hitched to the little cutter traveling over the sparkling snow. Sleigh riding in the moonlight through the winter wonderland was popular with the guests.

Another sport was horse skiing (Joring) which reminds one of water skiing. The Skier is towed by means of a long rope attached to the saddle. It is a unique sport and exciting.

Tom Farrow, general manager of the Yosemite Park Company, asked us to accept the position of Winter Caretakers on Glacier Point. Our job was to look after the visitors who came by stage and by hiking and riding the trails. We accepted and went up to the Point the first part of October. The Old Mountain House, constructed in 1878 by James McCauley is the oldest building in the Park still in use. It was our home for the winter. The duties were many and the hours long. I was cook and kitchen worker. Martha waited on table and made beds. The summer cook was a Chinaman, and it was time for him to leave for his winter job somewhere outside the Park. Before he left we asked him how he made the wonderful bread and cookies, all he would say, “O just a little of this, little of that, mixum up, put in oven, that‘s all.” Well our first couple batches did not turn out like Wongs, but I learned from experience. When you‘re over 3500 elevation you add a little water, increase temperature twenty-five percent and reduce baking time about five minutes.

It was during this October that the King and Queen of Belgium and Prince Leopold came to Glacier Point Mountain House for a few days‘ visit. Big preparation took place to entertain the King‘s Party of twenty. Extra help was sent up from the Sentinel Hotel in the Valley. Mrs. Cook, the Hotel Manager sent the best of her personnel to wait on the King and Queen. Meals were served in the main dining room. The Prince insisted that he wanted a pack trip out in the mountains. So Ranger Billy Nelson, the Royalties Body Guard, a Major in the Belgium Army, and I were detailed. I was the cook. We took off after lunch on riding horses for the Bridalveil Meadows, about ten miles back along the old Glacier Point Trail. The four of us camped at Bridalveil. The elevation was about 7,500 feet and it was frosty and very cold that night. We sat about the campfire and told tall tales of the early days in the Park. I cooked the dinner over an open fire with a fry pan and an old coffee pot just like our pioneers did years ago. At breakfast time the Prince made one request of me. He wanted to learn how to toss flap jacks so they would turn in the air and land in the pan in perfect form. The Prince was able to accomplish this after several attempts. He thanked me very much for showing him this old trick of flipping flap jacks. That afternoon we returned to the Mountain House and joined the King‘s Party. The following day the Royal Party departed by motor coach.

Many other parties from foreign lands came to the Mountain House. We got to know most of the guests quite well.

Twelve world travelers from Java, representing the world‘s coffee export and import trade, arrived one day. Accompanying them was an interpreter who was also their business manager. It was late fall and the nights were getting cold. They marveled at the scenery but when dinner time came they stayed close to the wood burning fireplace. They asked if they could have their coffee served in front of the fire where it was so cozy, and we were happy to oblige. While this was going on Martha slipped warm bricks wrapped in heavy paper into their beds to warm them. The next morning they all said that they had a wonderful night‘s sleep thanks to Martha. After they had departed and Martha was clearing the breakfast table she found under each plate a bright new fifty cent piece and a thank you note. She was happily surprised. Being considerate of the guests really paid off in more ways than one.

Late in November the heavy snow came and closed the road and trail and we were snowed in for the winter. There was a plentiful supply of food on hand so we were not worried about that. One thing we did worry about

Glacier Point Hotel. Bingamans spent the winter of 1919-1920 as manager.

was how to keep the heavy snow off the hotel roof so that it would not collapse under the weight. As the snow piled deeper and deeper it took more shoveling. By January the snow measured ten feet deep on the level. Fortunately the storms ceased and we had a spell of good weather.

One day we had an unexpected visitor. We saw a man plodding up the trail on snowshoes. It was Dick Hyland and we gave him a hearty welcome. Dick reported that Mrs. Cook thought we needed help and he was to remain as long as needed. This was good news. From then on between us we were able to keep the roof clear of snow after each storm.

A heavy snowstorm in February left five feet on the level and this meant more roof work. While shoveling and trying to move about the roof I slid off and fell about ten feet and painfully injured my knee. We had no telephone or radio in those days so all we could do was send Dick down the trail to notify the manager, Mr. Farrow. Next day our good Doctor Stein snowshoed up the trail, a distance of four miles and a climb of 3,200 feet. It turned out I had a badly sprained knee. The Doctor put a secure bandage and brace on it so I could hobble around. In about a week I was able to get around again without too much pain.

Many people wonder about the Fire Fall and its origin. James McCauley, one of the early pioneers in the Yosemite Valley, was the first to build a trail up the 3,200 foot climb to Glacier Point. While engaged in work at the Mountain House some one built a. large camp fire at the Point and by accident some of the embers fell over the cliff. People below in the Valley saw this unusual spectacle and they were so thrilled they asked McCauley to do it again and again. Later it was reported McCauley demanded compensation for his work of shoving a fire over the cliff.

After McCauleys left Glacier Point David Curry took over and established this unique spectacle as a nightly feature during his evening programs at Camp Curry.

The fire is made of fir bark and built on the edge of the cliff. It is necessary to let it bum down to embers which requires about two hours. At the scheduled time at 9 p.m. it is pushed over with a long handled rake. The fire over the cliff lasts several minutes thus giving the effect of a fire fall.

The summer crew arrived on schedule May 1, to relieve us. We packed up and returned to the Yosemite Valley, back to my former job guiding the dudes.

Early in June, 1921, Chief Ranger Forest Townsley rode into our camp. I was absent so he left word with Martha that I was to report to the Park Office at once. When I returned Martha gave me Townsley‘s message and added, “Now what did you do?”

On my way to the office I wondered why I was called in but I didn‘t worry too much for my conscience was clear.

Chief Ranger Townsley and Park Superintendent Lewis greeted me pleasantly. The chief said, “How would you like to be a ranger?” My mouth opened and my eyes bugged out. I was so surprised I couldn‘t say a word for several moments. I finally was able to say, “Chief, I don‘t know anything about ranger work.”

“He said, Oh yes you do. We have been watching you for some time. We would like you to fill the vacancy left by Ranger Jack Gaylar.” Jack had died at Merced Lake while on duty April 19, 1921. The ranger had flu early that spring. This affected his heart.

I stammered and stuttered and finally said, “Well, I‘ll have to talk it over with Martha.”

The Chief said, “Of course, but be here in the morning to take your oath of office.”

Martha saw me as I was running back to camp and wondered if I was trying to run away from the law. When I reached her, I said, “How would you like to be a ranger‘s wife?”

Her answer was, “Oh, I don‘t think you would want to be a ranger. Would you?” We talked it over. The pay wasn‘t much but the job offered security. As a permanent employee of the Park wemould have a house to live in. We discussed it at length and finally made our decision. I was at headquarters in the morning to sign my oath of office and begin duties as a Park Ranger.

Chapter III

RANGER LIFE IN THE PARK

In the early 1920’s ranger life was primitive. The roads leading into the valley were narrow dirt wagon trails for the most part and very dusty in summer. When the first snow fell the roads were closed for the winter. The only road kept open was from El Portal to Park Headquarters. This was done in order to get supplies and mail through. It was hard grueling work for a wooden V snow-plow pulled by horses. This was used for a number of years.

Today rotary snow plows are used around the clock to keep the roads open for visitors’ use.

In 1918 the rangers used saddle and pack horses for transportation. The Superintendent had an old White touring car for his official use, the Chief Ranger an old Dodge pickup and that was our motor transportation. Wagons and teams were used up to that time. Soon afterwards big cumbersome F.W.D. trucks came into use.

The Hotel Company had changed to Whites and Pierce Arrows for the stages, and the first motor coaches were used in 1913. By 1921 there were ten permanent rangers and twenty-five seasonal rangers, sometimes called “90 day wonders,” to take care of all the 1131 square miles of Park. In 1956 we had twenty-five permanent rangers and fifty-five seasonal rangers.

Our first quarters assignment was the old George Fiske house, one mile below the Old Village, across from the foot of the Glacier Point Trail, on the bend of the river. It was a comfortable rambling house made of shakes, built about 1890 by the photographer and used as a studio and residence. It was in this house that Fiske shot himself in 1912. He lived alone and had often told the neighbors that he was tired of living.

In this house we had many interesting visitors. One social event I remember particularly was on December 17, 1921. A party of eight came for an evening of games and music. It had been a clear cold day and about midnight someone looked out and saw that it was snowing hard. There was already three inches of snow and it was beginning to drift. Our guests decided to make their way home while they could. It was well that they did for before that snow storm stopped there were four feet on the level and it stayed all winter. I had to use my faithful saddle horse to break trail and keep it open by packing the snow down by the horse going over it several times a day. Otherwise we would have been snowed in.

Winter nights we planned social functions such as pot luck dinners and bridge parties so as not to get cabin fever. We attended Christmas parties and held open house during the Holidays.

The Bingamans’ residence, 1921-1922. “The Old Fiske House”

It had been the custom for many years for the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite Valley to celebrate Christmas with the world famous “Bracebridge Dinner.” This ceremony dates back to 1819, and Washington Irving’s account of the Christmas festivities at Bracebridge Hall in Old Yorkshire. A dinner of Old English variety was served. Boars head, baron of beef and peacock pie, made up part of the menu. Between four to five hundred guests attended this function each Christmas night at the Ahwahnee Hotel.

The fall of 1936 we were allowed some annual leave. We drove East to Bellevue, Ohio. My mother was failing in health in her 76th year and it was felt that we should visit her. We had a most happy visit with Mother and other members of my family. It was a real family reunion. Then we drove on to Washington, D.C., to visit good friends in the Department of the Interior and the National Park Service. We were extended every courtesy including passes to the many places of interest and escorted by members of the Park Service. It was an education for we learned many interesting things about our government and the operation of our National Parks.

Our return was through the Shenandoah National Park, along the Great Smokies, Carlsbad Caverns National Park and the Southwest Monuments. We often reminisce of the contacts, visits and delicious meals we have had with many of our good Park friends, some of these have passed on, but are not forgotten.

There is a little Chapel in the Yosemite Valley which has brought peace and comfort to many. The original Chapel was built in 1879 at the foot of Sentinel Rock and was moved to its present site in 1888. Here both Protestants and Catholics hold weekly services. In summer the Church Bowl is used for outdoor services. The religious services are sponsored by all denominations, and have served the people of the Valley as well as the visitors.

Chapter IV

RANGER DUTIES IN A NATIONAL PARK

The ranger is the law, the information bureau, wild life protector, handy man, forest fire fighter and rescuer. He is responsible for the protection and administration of his area. He is trained for these duties and must be mentally and physically qualified to handle them competently. The two most important duties of a Ranger is the saving of human life and fighting forest fires.

In the first decade of Park Service beginning 1916, a Ranger was selected for his physical strength and ability to ride and pack horses, to take care of himself alone under all conditions and to see ihat the work assigned was accomplished. Often he was a “one man crew” with few facilities and equipment to aid him. He was on duty every day, seven days a week through the summer season. When a Ranger rode alone into the back country there were no telephones or radios, to keep him in touch with headquarters. In those days it was real pioneering. Had it not been for those dedicated men the first rangers, the purpose of the Park Service might well have fallen short of its original concept.

So it went through the years, the ranger always alert, patrolling the forests and trails, protecting and maintaining the Park in safety for the thousands of visitors that came to see the wonders of nature, and get rejuvenated

from the stress of every day city life. Rangers have some tough problems but they must be met and solved as part of the rangers’ duty. Inexperienced visitors climbing the rocks and precipitous cliffs without proper guidance and technique often get into trouble. It is the ranger’s job to risk his life, if necessary, to bring them down safely.

At the Badger Pass Ski Field over 100,000 people participate in this sport each winter and many accidents occur. Broken legs, cuts and sprains are all too common. Rangers assigned to these areas handle all the first aid cases and assist with the transporting of accident victims down off the ski fields to where medical and hospital service is available. Splints, toboggans and Stokes litter are used for this work. Some week-ends two thousand people will be skiing at Badger Pass. I have assisted in ten rescues in one day. Even a good skier may break a leg if conditions are not just right and he hits an iced up place or obstruction.

In summer the type accidents are more varied. All too often people Attempt swimming in cold swift water when they are hot and tired. The shock may bring on cramps rendering a good swimmer helpless. Unless help is at hand he may well drown.

Heart attacks also happen. Some hikers take too strenuous a trip in high altitude without conditioning first. This should be done gradually until the hikers are acclimated to mountain conditions.

Careless and foolish people who insist on feeding the bear and deer are lucky if they receive only minor bites and scratches.

The ranger is a uniformed man wearing a badge, and required to dress neatly. A wide brimmed Stetson hat, forest green trousers, and a uniform shirt with insignia, set him apart from the park visitors. In the early years he wore riding boots, and breeches, for full uniform. Later this was changed to slacks and oxfords for formal dress. When in the field on patrol, he wears blue jeans and field boots along with his uniform shirt and Stetson hat. On patrols into the remote areas the ranger carries a .45 Colt on his belt. Some of the first rangers also carried a 30-30 Carbine on their saddle. On remote patrols camp gear, bed roll, ax, shovel, note book, map, and food are standard equipment. Binoculars for spotting forest fires are also carried along.

Full instructions for all first aid work is part of the ranger’s training. In later years the training included attendance at a two week F.B.I. School to learn the techniques of law enforcement. In the 1930’s a routine Forest Fire Training School was established which the rangers attended.

Chief Ranger Townsley insisted on mounted patrols. And it impressed Park Visitors. A mounted man in uniform attracts attention. Whereas the same man in a car might well pass unnoticed. I hope to see the mounted rangers come back in the Parks. It gave the rangers an added touch of dignity and authority.

Another important duty is the taking care of the camp grounds in the valley. The ranger is asked hundreds of questions, some of which are most difficult to answer, but he usually comes up with a satisfactory answer. The holidays and peak travel periods are particularly challenging to the ranger on campground duty for it requires a great deal of tact, and a real love and understanding of people, not to get nettled or brusque at some of the park characters.

I well remember July 19, 1935, when I was assigned as patrol ranger in Tuolumne Meadows. The Chief Ranger called up and said, “John we want you to come down and take charge of the camp grounds.” That was an order. Ranger Billy Nelson had been assigned there but was retiring soon, and now I was to take charge. The next day we bid farewell to the Meadows and reported to headquarters.

Billy Nelson was a veteran at Camp Ground duty, and probably the best known Ranger in Camp Ground work. He proceeded to teach me all the tricks of the trade in the next few weeks. The five camp grounds accommodated approximately 8,000 campers. The hardest part of the work was to enforce the 30 day camp limit which had gone into effect that spring. Prior to this year there was no camp limit. As a result a percentage of the families came and stayed all summer. They set up large camp sites along the river. This was the most desirable location so it was felt in fairness to other campers who came to the park for a shorter period that a 30 day limit had to be imposed. With this new regulation, it was necessary to have a card system and to tag each camp. The camper was instructed to register at the Ranger Tent at the entrance to the camp ground when he arrived. He would then receive a tag with his name and entering date. Upon leaving, he checked the tag out. This required a ranger on duty full time at the camp. The ranger had a long day, but he had control and the system worked.

There was little trouble and few complaints once the plan was put into effect for the average camper appreciated the facilities offered by the Park. The question of when the Park would provide more facilities, particularly rest rooms and hot showers, was asked, at least once, by every family. The popularity of the camp sites made it necessary to plan more camp grounds.

A camp in the lower end of the Valley at what was known as “the old bear pits” might well serve for some over flow and take the place of Old Camp Four. It would be available for both winter and summer use and allow Camp Four to be abandoned for it was a less desirable location.

Camping in the high country was encouraged. The camping time limit could be taken off at some of the high camps as an added inducement.

In 1926, I was assigned to Entrance Station at Alder Creek on the Wawona Road. Travel was heavy and more help was needed. The work day began at 6 a.m. and ended at 10 p.m. with no time off. The Superintendent recommended the hiring of women to assist on the stations. July 1, Martha was appointed a Seasonal Ranger and assisted with duties at my station, collecting fees and giving information to the visitors. Other women were hired at this time to assist on other stations.

On July 31, 1926 the All Year Highway from Merced to Yosemite was finished and opened for traffic. Travel increased double that year. It seemed like all the people in California came to visit the Park that summer.

Chapter V

RANGER PATROLS

My first patrol assignment was in June, 1921. Orders from the Chief Ranger were to take my complete pack outfit and go to the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees for a month. It was a long day’s ride of approximately thirty-one miles with a full pack and saddle horse. My duties were to patrol the Grove, give information to the visitors, watch for forest fires and check for trespassers. In a day or two Martha arrived and we managed to set up a comfortable camp in a little shake cabin.

The Mariposa Grove is a most impressive place. Here the large Sequoias tower into the sky some two hundred and fifty feet and are up to thirty feet in diameter. The famous Wawano Tunnel Tree is in Mariposa Grove. The Tree was tunneled in 1881 by the Stage Coach Company, and the road from that time to the present ran through it. Another famous tree is the California Tree near the Grizzly Giant. This is also a tunnel tree.

The Yosemite Park Company operated a Lodge in the Upper Grove, where they maintained eating and lodging facilities. Ed Baxter ran a studio and photograph shop in the old Galen Clark Cabin near the lodge. Baxter held this concession from the early days when the Big Trees were still under State control.

During the morning I patrolled the boundary. From noon on I would be at the places of special interest answering questions. The Big Trees were of particular interest to the visitors.

The weather was superb, beautiful clear blue skies, so common in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The nights were pleasant and balmy at this elevation of 5,500 feet. Martha and I enjoyed living close to nature where we could study the trees, flowers and animals, so the time passed all too quickly. The end of the month I was to report back to headquarters, thus ending my first month’s experience in this most interesting place.

For the rest of the summer I was assigned to the Tuolumne Meadow District. I was glad for this experience as it gave me an opportunity to get acquainted with the high mountain country. Martha owned her own horse so rode with me often. Ranger Merrill Miller, the Checking Ranger, was already there when we arrived.

The ranger cabin was a rough shake building, located near the first soda spring, in the Meadow. It had only two small rooms, one room was just large enough for a bed, a couple chairs and a few boxes. The kitchen had a small wood stove and table. We had to carry water from the Tuolumne River about one hundred yards from the cabin. There was no plumbing in the cabin, just a little Chick Sales in the back yard.

We had to bell our horses and turn them loose each evening to graze as there was no barn or corral. Toward fall when the frost came and ice

Yosemite Ranger Force 1924—Nelson, Sault, Silva, Bingaman, Rich,
Adair, Wegner, Skelton, Boothe, Townsley.

froze in the bucket at night the horses would take off and get into the heavy timber up near Dog Lake. We would have several miles to hike to round them up for the day’s patrol.

We patrolled the trails, contacting the hikers and fishermen and checking on the campers. That summer was not particularly busy or crowded like the last few years. Our maximum camper count was 120 people compared to the present 2,000 count.

On one of my patrols I encountered a band of sheep grazing near the park boundary. There were approximately 2,000 sheep in the flock. I contacted the herder near the pass. He was apparently nervous and reluctant to talk. To further complicate the situation he could not speak English and I could not speak Basque. I tried to make him understand who I was and what I represented. I think he understood all right, as he pointed in the Park and said, “mucha heirba.” I had to make him understand that the Park was a protected area and that is why there were such wonderful grassy meadows. He listened patiently to my story but whether he understood I never knew. He then offered food and coffee and appeared to be friendly. He made signs that he would travel back down the canyon. For several years this same herder came up with his sheep the first week in September. He always observed the park boundary and obeyed the regulation, no trespassing. Each time he invited us to his camp, and offered coffee and his famous sheep-herder bread.

Travel was light that fall over the Pass. Soon the snow would come for the nights were getting cold. With the end of the hunting season on the east side of the Sierras, the Chief Ranger gave orders for us to report back to headquarters.

Another summer, Ranger Billy Nelson and I patrolled the Tuolumne District, covering all the trails from Donohue Pass to the most northerly pass, called Buckeye Pass. This is a vast wilderness area, a spectacular part of the Park with its enormous steep canyons, rushing streams, alpine meadows and mountain peaks up to twelve thousand feet.

On September 15 we started our boundary patrol, checking all high passes, watching for poachers and sheep trespassers. Our schedule was to make a loop so we would come out via the Hetch Hetchy Valley. We camped where feed and water were to be found. The evening of the 25th, at Bee Hive Meadow, it clouded up and during the night snowed five inches. There was no time to waste if we were going to get out of there safely. We were cold and wet and the horses were anxious to get going. The snow slowed us down but we reached the Hetch Hetchy Dam and proceeded on up to Hog Ranch Ranger Station, where Rangers Sault and Silva were stationed. They greeted us and said, “Come in plenty of room.”

We had been in the rain all day, but soon dried out and were comfortable.. Silva had a big pot of stew on the stove for dinner. We watched it simmer and could almost taste it. Finally it was ready. Silva and Sault were setting the table in the front room real fancy for us. As Sault was about to dish up the stew it slipped off the stove and spilled to the floor. There were some sharp words flying and some one said, “You awkward so and so, now what will we do for dinner?” We had to settle for canned pork and beans.

After our horses were cared for with a good feed of hay and grain we settled down to a good night’s rest. It was the first real bed we’d had for ten days.

Breakfast over, we were on our way via Carl Inn to Merced Grove where we stayed that night.

The next day we patrolled Big Meadow and returned to Yosemite Valley. On the entire trip we saw only two horse parties and two fishermen along the west boundary. The nights were cold for it was about time for the big storms that usually hit at this season of the year. The equinox storms come up fast overnight in the high Sierras.

A rare day in October, 1941, Ranger John Hansen and I made the last fall Mounted Patrol to inspect the Wilmer Lake and Bonds Pass Area. It was Indian Summer; one of those balmy, golden days with cold frosty nights. We left Mather Ranger Station by truck at 6 a.m. driving to Miguel Meadows. There we saddled our horses and proceeded up Jack Main Canyon Trail. We reached Wilmer Lake late that afternoon and made camp. There was a real bite in the air that let us know Old Man Winter was just around the corner. He was closer than we thought.

At four a.m. the first blast of wind and snow blew down a dead tree almost on our camp. Ranger Hansen opened one eye and saw my ranger hat rolling like a cart-wheel toward the tree. If the tree hadn’t been there to snag it that Stetson would have been gone forever. Then the trouble started, for the camp gear wanted to take off after my Stetson. Somehow we got breakfast in spite of the wind and sleet. Then we had to roundup our, horses who’d gone up the mountain to find shelter among the rocks. We got them back to camp, packed and headed for home. Trees fell all around us and we estimated at least one hundred trees were down. Many fell across the trail which slowed us down and gave us trouble getting through. Johnny groaned, “What a job we’ll have in the spring clearing this trail.” Johnny did not return to help, for he had a date with the U.S. Army.

Half way home on Morraine Ridge we ran out of snow but not the wind. We saw smoke off in the direction of El Portal. The power line was down and this started a forest fire. For a time it looked like all Yosemite was burning. When we arrived at Mather Ranger Station we found all roads were closed by downed timber. Communication between the ranger station and headquarters was almost impossible. We heard parts of messages from the fire fighters over a small battery radio. Sam Clark’s voice came on. We didn’t know who he was talking to when he said, “Wonder if the two Johns made it out of the high country?”

About the first of November the Chief Ranger and Superintendent Kittredge came out to Mather Ranger Station and decided that it wasn’t necessary to keep a ranger isolated at the Station all winter and that I’d be more useful at headquarters. So on November 17, 1941, we moved to headquarters and I was assigned to Rangers’ Office. Our quarters were one of the Park Service Houses, near Government Center.

It has been the usual habit of most superintendents to take a pack trip into various sections of the Park to observe local conditions. I was always glad to have the chief ranger and superintendent come out to my district and make an inspection for it showed that they were taking an interest in our field work.

October 1, 1943, Superintendent Kittredge wanted to make a boundary patrol. Ranger Evans, Frank Ewing, Ralph Anderson, Ed Beatty and myself started from Hetch Hetchy, going via Beehive Trail to Jack Main Canyon and to Wilmer Lake, where we camped the first night. The next day we moved on to Bond’s Pass and Huckleberry Lake for our second camp. We checked on boundary passes, grazing and hunters. Near Bonds Pass we found 25 head of cattle grazing in the Park. The cattle were fat and contented for they were getting plenty of feed and water. The superintendent looked at me and said, “John how long has this been going on?”

I answered him by saying, “They haven’t been in the Park long for the grass has not been trampled nor are there many tracks around the area.”

He said, “Let’s drive them out of the Park.” We did. The Pass was only half a mile away and the cattle drove easily. They seemed to know they were trespassers and not wanted in the Park. We found the boundary fence down. After repairing the fence we headed the cattle down the canyon to the Forest Reserve.

We followed an old dim trail I knew from Huckleberry Lake to Kibbie Lake. It wasn’t a regular trail. An old cattleman who ran cattle in this country many years had showed me the trail which was a much shorter

Pate Valley Indian Pictographs in the Tuolumne Canyon,
Yosemite National Park

route and through an interesting part of the Park. We camped at Kibbie Lake that night. The lake is a fisherman’s paradise. The next day we returned to Hetch Hetchy and all agreed it was a fine trip.

On a Patrol with Ranger Walquist to Pate Valley, we spent some time investigating the Indian Pictographs on the Canyon wall, one-fourth mile north of the Trail Camp. Ranger Walquist and I searched over the Canyon Cliff looking for other places where the markings and pictures have been reported for many years. We found one location near the House Pits averaging twelve feet in diameter. It appeared that the Indians occupied these places the year around. The age of the Pictographs could be anywhere from two hundred to one thousand years or even more. Pictographs are found in some fifty places throughout California. Nothing can be told of the significance of the characters contained in the markings. In no case do the present Indians know their origin or meaning. The Indians of this region do not make representations of natural objects as did the Indians of the Plains. The characters may be connected with some important enumeration of calendar keeping. These Pictographs were first discovered and reported by Mr. McKibben and E. W. Hamden, which they discovered while on an outing of the Sierra Club in 1907.

August 22 to 28, 1944, Superintendent Kittredge was making a survey of the High Mountains adjacent to the East Boundary of the Park. He made up a Ranger Party to assist him on this trip. Chief Ranger Sedergren, Park Naturalist Brockman, Ed Davies, Ranger Merrill, Ranger and Mrs. Danner and myself made the trip to observe and take notes. The area in question was the Devils Post Pile, Red Meadow, Thousand Island Lake, Banner, Ritter and the Minnerets. It was proposed that some day this be taken into the Yosemite National Park. It was a wilderness paradise of high mountain peaks and alpine lakes. Some of the area was under lease and some under private ownership, so reports were made of the proposal and additions recommended which would add the area to the Yosemite National Park.

My last official mountain inspection trip was in August, 1956. I had the pleasure of being in a party with Superintendent John Preston, Chief Ranger Oscar Sedergren, Doctor Avery Sturm and Wayne Westfall. We departed from Tuolumne Meadows and headed north via Glen Aulin, Cold Canyon and Virginia Canyon, where we camped the first night. Wayne and I handled the pack mules. Oscar was the cook, and we all agreed he was a good one. Doctor Sturm was along for a change of scenery, rest and relaxation. Superintendent Preston took in all the sights and commented on various aspects of the trails and camp locations.

We had no more than unpacked and started dinner, when a hiker came into camp and asked if there was a Doctor in our party. The man explained his friend was up the canyon about six miles suffering with severe pain. They had hiked over the mountain pass that day from Virginia Lakes. Doctor Sturm and Wayne saddled two horses and in a short time were riding up the canyon with the hiker. Darkness overtook them before they arrived at the emergency camp of the sick man. After treatment and needed medicine the man was made comfortable.

Word was sent over the mountain by another hiker to the Pack Station at Virginia Lake, to send back for horses so the two men could ride out. The horses wouldn’t arrive until the following afternoon for the distance was some fifteen miles. The doctor and Wayne returned about midnight and reported favorably on the condition of the sick man. Doctor Sturm said he would go back to check on him after breakfast. I was up before daybreak for my job was to start the fire and get the coffee going. I had a hard time getting Oscar out of his sleeping bag for he never liked to get up early. Breakfast was over at sun-up and Wayne, Oscar and the doctor were in the saddle riding up the trail to check on the patient. He apparently had rested some but was still very uncomfortable. The packer was expected to arrive shortly with the horses. He arrived at noon and the sick man and his friend were shortly on their way to Virginia Lake where their car was parked.

That day we inspected the trail up to Summit Lake at Virginia Pass which was the eastern boundary of the Park. It was a most beautiful day. We met a family of four hiking up the trail. The party consisted of the father and mother and two small children. They were on their way to Benson Lake for a ten day pack trip. One other horse back party came through the other way headed for the Park. Late that afternoon we returned to our camp at the Virginia trail junction. About the time we arrived another party of campers had moved in. One member had suffered from bad blisters on his feet so the doctor had another job treating bandaging the man’s sore blisters. Doctor Sturm decided that he wasn’t getting the kind of vacation he’d planned.

The doctor had borrowed my Sierra Club Cup when he was treating the first patient. This cup had been given me at one of the Sierra Club’s big outings, some twenty years before. I had prized it very much and carried it along on all my mountain patrols. The doctor when questioned about the cup said that he had given it to the sick man. I was about to leave and go after the cup. The rest of the party was watching me and how I reacted to the loss. After a time they gave it back to me wrapped in tissue paper. They added special presentation speeches and I guess I looked like a boy with a new toy when they handed it to me. I have hung on to my Tin Cup to this day.

The next day we packed up and rode to Matterhorn Canyon, where we stopped along the Matterhorn Creek to have our lunch. It was a beautiful setting for wild flowers were blooming in the meadows. Matterhorn Creek runs through a wild, rugged and spectacular canyon with steep walls three thousand feet high. It is truly a camper’s paradise. After lunch, and a rest, we traveled on via Benson Pass to Smedburg Lake and camped for the night. This is one of the most picturesque alpine lakes in the Park set in a cup of the mountains at an elevation of 9,500 feet.

Superintendent Preston and Doctor Sturm had gone off on an exploratory trip to a small unnamed lake before joining the rest of us at Smedburg Lake. They rode into camp about one hour after we’d arrived. Each night on the trip we’d sit around the campfire telling stories and discussing many happenings of the past about Yosemite.

In the established campsites, the rangers maintain drift fences to hold saddle and pack stock. Otherwise the horses are inclined to wander away many miles for forage and to find a place to keep warm at night in the high country.

Our route the next day was to beautiful Rodgers Lake, Neal Lake and down Rodgers Canyon into Pate Valley. There we made camp for the night. We had dropped five thousand feet into the canyon of the Tuolumne. Fast water runs through the canyon and is one of the famous streams of the high Sierras. It was much warmer in the canyon and we kept a sharp lookout for rattlesnakes for they are common in this location. I had encountered from one to five on every trip through on past patrols. Telephone connections are maintained from this camp to headquarters. After reporting in to the Office, that all was going fine with us, we had a bath and supper. After we had eaten we took a short inspection trip around the area before nightfall. Horse feed we found was very short in Pate Valley. Early the next morning we rode through the grand canyon of the Tuolumne and on through Muir Gorge where the scenery was superb. This particular place was named after John Muir who explored the Canyon many years ago, possibly about 1870.

The trail through the Grand Canyon, past Muir Gorge, connecting Pate Valley with Waterwheel Falls, was completed in 1925 by Park Service crews. I always considered this as one of the most beautiful and interesting routes through the Park. That night we camped at Glen Aulin, a pleasant relaxing place in a grove of quaking aspens, one mile from the Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp. We had a most comfortable night and our stock had plenty of feed. The next day, our last day out, we arrived at Tuolumne Meadows in the early afternoon and we all agreed this was one of the finest pack trips we had ever had in the Sierras.

The weather had been perfect, warm sunshiny days and cool nights. The cook had fed us well and our doctor had finally run out of patients to treat. The Superintendent had learned much about the trails and camps the visitors use in the high country. Wayne and I had thoroughly enjoyed the trip for we had no trouble with the saddle horses and mules which always makes a ranger and wrangler happy. I often think back on this grand trip into the north end of Yosemite National Park and the Tuolumne Meadow District where I had been on duty twelve summers as District Ranger.

Ranger Herb Ewing had taken good care of the District while we were away. He reported everything quiet and no emergencies,

September 1st Chief Ranger Sedergren decided to inspect the Vogelsang and Merced Lake area. We made a pack trip over, via Fletcher Lake Trail and returned via Vogelsang Pass Trail. One day we rode up to Washburn Lake. We inspected the Merced Lake High Sierra Camp and contacted the manager. This part of the Park is extensively used by hikers and horseback parties being on the High Sierra Camps Loop where accommodations, food, and lodging are found during the summer months. Merced Lake Camp was first established in 1916 and has given splendid service to the hikers and fishermen that enjoy this remote area of the Park.

Chapter VI

FOREST FIRES

June 15, 1921, I became a full-fledged park ranger. After signing the oath of office my first orders from Chief Ranger Townsley were to saddle and pack up, take rations and fire hand-tools and proceed to Big Meadows, where a forest fire was burning park timber. Ranger Merrill Miner was to go with me. We were to contact George Meyer who was living on his ranch at Big Meadow and the three of us would make up the fire crew. It was up to us to put out the fire. Ranger Miller and I arrived about noon at the fire. It looked big and sinister and appeared to be spreading rapidly. George Meyer was already there and glad to see us for he needed help. “Now,” he said, “We can really tackle this fire.” His brother Horace soon joined us and we set to work with our hand-tools, shovels and saws, building a fire line. It took three days of hard work to complete a good line and this held the fire. While on the fire line Mrs. Meyers cooked and brought us food. Some thirty acres of fine timber had burned. Now that the fire was contained the four of us had a chance to get a good night’s rest.

The fire was no doubt man-made by some careless smoker. On the afternoon of the fourth day the fire was out so we left the Meyers and returned to headquarters tired and dirty. My first job completed as a park ranger.

July 13, 1931, a forest fire started at Wawona, near the garbage pit. It went out of control and burned up the ridge to Alder Creek. Chief Ranger Townsley was in charge and ordered Ranger Adair and Ranger Reymann to get help from the crews at the logging camps as well as the local residents from Wawona. Some 1,300 acres of brush and timber had already burned. It was a fast burning fire and hard to get at due to the steep slopes which created drafts like wind tunnels. During the peak of the burning, Ranger Adair was trapped and had to jump off his horse and get down in a small creek-bed in order to save his life. The fire shifted so the smoke and flames passed over Adair’s head. He gave the horse a slap on the back and it went through safely and was found a few days later near Wawona. Ranger Adair suffered from this experience and never fully regained his health.

If you go back in Park history, the larger forest fires always happened in the fall of the year. Fall is an especially bad time as most of our fire crews and seasonal rangers have gone back to school leaving only the permanent staff for fire line service. Fall is also the driest time of the year which makes fire fighting dangerous. Shortage of man-power is also a handicap when it comes to fighting big fires. The Park has been most fortunate in not having major fires along the main highways leading into the Valley or in the South Fork Canyon from Wawona to the Big Trees. This area is considered a real

1925 Graham Dodge Truck—First Yosemite fire truck

fire hazard. A bad fire in this area would leave scars and desolation which the Park visitors would have to pass through.

Not all forest fires are caused by lightning. Careless smokers and those who leave camp fires burning also contribute to the fire hazards. Some are known to be the work of fire-bugs and incendiary in origin. Power lines blowing down in high windstorms start fires.

In the last few years the Park Fire Department has become well organized with a fire dispatcher and fire lookouts stationed on prominent peaks where they have a wide range of vision. These lookouts with their firefinders can spot and plot the location of the first smoke and relay it to the Fire Dispatcher by phone or radio. Fire crews are then dispatched from the nearest Ranger Station with proper tools, rations and mechanical tools, such as the chain saw, trucks, and bull-dozers. Small water pumpers are also very helpful. Even the old type Indian Pack Pump has been useful many a time.

Fire schools are held regularly and it is mandatory that all new fire guards and seasonal rangers attend and learn the modern techniques of fire fighting. The wonderful help and benefits the Parks received from the Civilian Conservation Corps in forest fire suppression will long be remembered by the old-time rangers.

1948 was considered a very dry year with many forest fires on the outside bordering the Park. The early part of September was smoky all over the Park, visibility was very poor and it was difficult for the Fire Lookouts to get any readings. On September 10th, I was out early to feed the saddle and pack stock. My station, Mather Ranger Station was headquarters for the northwest section of the Park. Visibility was poor that morning and I had a premonition that there’d be trouble as I could smell smoke and knew there must be a fire somewhere in the area. I called the Fire Dispatcher in the Valley and asked if there were any fires reported nearby, for the smell of smoke was strong, but I couldn’t see in what direction it came from. He said the Lookouts hadn’t reported any fires but for me to be on the alert. About that time Ranger Broyles came up to the Station to start his daily patrol. I said, “Rod, better not take that ride today as I feel that we may be fighting a fire before long.”

At 10:15 a.m. the report came through. A lookout had discovered a fire in Pate Valley, approximately two miles down-stream from the Pate Valley Trail Camp, where the canyon is 4,000 feet deep. The prevailing wind in that area is usually up canyon which kept the smoke at first from rising high enough to be visible to the lookouts. We found out later that this fire originated the day before and was man caused.

I had two rangers available, Walquist and Broyles. They were dispatched as soon as they could pack, collect rations and equipment. They took the Rancheria Trail to the top of the canyon. I’d given them one of our shortwave radio sets with instructions to set it up somewhere near the top of the canyon in a safe place. More help would join them as soon as we could get them there. A few men from Mather Recreation Camp were recruited and the first truck load arrived from the Valley soon after noon. They continued up the trail to where the rangers had set up camp. The fire had spread and made a big run up the side of the north canyon burning 2,000 acres that first day.

Homer Robinson, Park Fire Chief, arrived and took command. He planned for a large spreading fire and began sending crews into Pate Valley as well as up Rancheria Mountain. Two City of San Francisco boats standing by at the Hetch Hetchy Dam were ordered to transport crews to the head of the reservoir which was five miles distant. From there the fire crews proceeded on foot another five miles up a steep mountain trail. Fire camp was made at what was called Hat Creek. Food and sleeping bags had to be packed so extra packers and animals were hired to do this job.

A fire camp headquarters was established at Hetch Hetchy where time keeping and communications were set up and the fire crews checked in and out at fire headquarters. Supplies and tools were also checked through from here. Pack trains were sent to the head of the Reservoir to pack equipment up to the Hat Creek Camp. The boats carried everything from the Dam to the relay point which was named “Omaha Beach.” My job was supply and communication and time keeper at the Hetch Hetchy Camp. Experienced help from Region Four, and other Parks were brought in to assist in directing the fire crews. Martha, assisted by Mrs. Walquist, handled the telephone connections at Mather Ranger Station.

Our old radios worked fine part of the time and we were able to get messages through to the fire camps at Rancheria, Piute Creek and Pate Valley. The fire could not be contained for it would jump the fire lines in the strong gusty winds. Each day new lines had to be built. Fire Boss Thede on the west side was having a tough time and his crew was worn out.

Mr. John Coffman the Chief Forester from Washington, D.C., came on the job and made a complete circle around the fire line, by foot. This was a grueling trip but he insisted on seeing conditions at first-hand.

After several big blow ups and much fire line lost, it was decided by the fire boss to back-fire beginning at Rancheria Trail from the reservoir, to the top of the mountain at Hat Creek. It was a big brushy area and would not destroy too much big timber. Back-firing has to be done with great care and at the right time in order to be successful. The back-fire, plus the help of better weather conditions, finally brought the fire under control.

During the peak of the fire operation we had four hundred and forty seven men on the job. Eight fire camps were established and put into operation. The fire had burned over 11,840 acres and the timber loss was heavy. This was the largest forest fire in the history of the Park. High winds and low humidity increased the difficulties encountered by the fire fighters. At times the fire camps were cut off from their source of supply which complicated matters. The fire burned for three weeks before it was finally controlled.

As a result of this disastrous fire many new plans and recommendations were made to prevent a similar occurrence. The rangers called particular attention to the blind spots in this area where the fire first started. I made a recommendation for establishing a Lookout Station in the vicinity of Smith Peak. This would bring under observation a large area that couldn’t be seen directly from our present lookouts.

The report of the Board of Review for this recommended an added Lookout Station and better radio equipment for the Park. Trail Crews, Ranger Stations and Patrol Cars, were all to be equipped with radios as soon as possible. Better telephone connections to the Out Posts were also recommended. It was generally agreed that had the Trail Crew working in Pate Valley been equipped with radio and better detection from the Lookout Stations, the story of this fire might have been quite different.

In closing this chapter I might add, that through the years of the past century white men struggled with forest fire problems. Records show there have been many fires that ravished the mountain sides which cost millions of dollars in valuable timber as well as tremendous suppression costs. The Indians used to set fires to clear out the underbrush so it was made easier for their hunting.

Who knows? They may have had the answer.

Chapter VII

ACCIDENTS—LOST PEOPLE—AND RESCUES

The art of rescue requires special training in order to be successful and protect both the one who needs help and the rescuers. A ranger is thoroughly trained in rescue techniques.

One memorable rescue was in April, 1928, while I was on Valley Patrol. I was reporting in to headquarters from the phone booth in front of Camp Curry when I thought I heard a faint call for help from somewhere up on the mountain. It seemed to come from the direction of Glacier Point. Listening more closely I heard the calls for help repeated several times. I reported this to the Chief Ranger over the phone and he told me to take Ranger Reymann, who was on duty in the ranger office, and investigate. The time was 9 p.m. so we took lights, rope and gear and proceeded up the Ledge Trail. The Chief’s orders were, to flash back signals three times in succession if additional help was needed. There was snow on the ground and Ranger Reymann and I climbed slowly up the steep Ledge Trail listening for the calls and watching for tracks. We reached the place where the trail turns left going towards the top and there, as we looked down the rock chimney, we saw foot tracks in the snow. We followed the tracks over a brush covered ledge to where they became skid marks in the snow, here they lost their footing and slid down the brush covered ledge, stopping just before the drop off. Flashing our light we called and got an answer, a woman’s voice saying there were two of them hanging onto some bushes on a narrow ledge. We assured them we would bring them up safely as soon as we had our rope securely anchored to a rock. We let out 100 feet of rope before it reached the ledge where the two women were clinging for dear life to some bushes. With Reymann watching the rope and lighting the way from above I let myself down to where they were. Needless to say the women were very glad to see me. Ten feet more and it would have been a thousand foot drop off and they would not have been living to tell the story. With the aid of the rope and Reymann and I pulling, we got them back up on the trail without mishap.

They were cold, frightened, scratched and bruised but not seriously hurt. We gave them first aid, a drink of water and were soon on our return trip down the trail, reaching the bottom by 1 a.m.

The women were Miss Wilbur, daughter of the Secretary of the Navy at that time, and a Miss Ring, both school teachers in the schools at Lindsey, California. They were somewhat reluctant in giving their names and addresses, but we explained this was necessary to our reports of the incident. They also reported to their families their safe return from the mountain experience. The newspapers published an account of the rescue and this resulted in publicity for the Park and the rangers. We received letters and telegrams of thanks

Park Rangers on rescue of visitor—1921

from the Secretary of War, Curtis Wilbur, and Director of the Park Service, Stephan T. Mather, also from Horace M. Albright, Assistant Director of the Park Service. We appreciated the thanks received even though the incident was just a part of our day’s work. I received special recognition for my part in the rescue.

In August, 1934, Mr. and Mrs. Rettenbacker of San Mateo, California, were reported lost or missing when they did not return io their camp in Tuolumne Meadows, from a mountain climb up Banner Peak, just over the East Park Boundary. They had registered with me at Tuolumne Meadows five days previous, and reported they would return on a certain date. The following day I reported them over-due. A search party was organized by the Forest Service, headed by Norman Clyde, a noted mountaineer in the Sierra region. All Park Rangers in this area were checking trails and high camp sites for a trace of the couple. A few days later Norman Clyde found the bodies in a rock and snow slide on the side of Banner Peak. Permission was granted to bury them near the spot.

During the winter of 1939, there were several heavy snow storms about the latter part of February. A big transport plane with eleven people aboard was reported lost over the Sierras. No trace of it was found until the first of July when a CCC boy from the Wawona camp found the plane up on Buena Vista Peak, twelve miles east of my Station at Wawona.

This CCC boy had volunteered to search for the missing plane all through the spring months. Each week-end he would take off from his camp with a few supplies and a blanket and would systematically take a set course and cover as much distance as possible. This particular trip, he told me later, would have been his last. It was about 3 p.m. on a Sunday afternoon when he located the wreckage. The weather had turned warmer the past week and the snow had melted off the plane leaving it exposed. The plane apparently had hit the peak about twenty feet from the very top. All aboard had evidently been killed outright as the bodies were intact with little destruction. There was a reward of one thousand dollars posted by the T.W.A. Company for the finding of this plane.

I was on duty at the Wawona Ranger Station when the CCC boy came to report his find and in turn I reported it to the Chief Ranger. Headquarters notified the T.W.A. company office in Fresno, California, and assigned a ranger for the rescue operation.

Pack animals and packers were furnished by the Curry Company for it was a hard, long trip up the Chilnualna Trail to Buena Vista Peak. The upper creeks were running bank full with melting snow waters and fording them was hazardous. One pack animal lost its footing and was washed down the rushing stream for some distance before being rescued. The job took sixteen hours to recover the bodies and bring them down the mountain where the Madera County Coroner had ambulances to take them to Madera, California.

Two months later the mother of two children, young students from Stanford University, who had been killed on the plane, came to the Park and insisted on seeing the spot where the plane had crashed. Her request was granted and Gladys Gordon and I were assigned by the Chief Ranger to take her up the trail to Buena Vista Peak. She had brought a small bronze plaque along to place where the plane was found.

It seemed rather a strange ritual but it appeared to relieve her mind when the plaque was placed on the mountain side. She told us that her husband, the father of the children, had died at their home town in Michigan just before the news of the untimely fate of the children was delivered.

Another plane episode happened in the spring of 1940, when an Army P. 38 Night Fighter with two pilots aboard was reported lost and probably down somewhere east of Fresno in the Sierra. This plane was not found until early summer when Arch Westfall was guiding a party of visitors into the Moraine Meadow area. As they neared Givens Creek his horse snorted and made a ruckus. Arch investigated and found the plane and two pilots in a clump of trees just off the trail. The plane was partly burned. One dead pilot was on the ground and the other still in the cockpit. Both apparently were killed with the plane crashed. Arch rode fifteen miles to a phone and his report was relayed to me. Ranger Jack Bell and I were ordered to the crashed plane to take charge so that no vandals or trophy seekers would tamper with the valuable military equipment. We took enough food and camp gear to stay on protection duty until the army authorities arrived to handle all details. An army major arrived the next day and ordered the plane broken up and buried. The bodies were packed out to Wawona and sent to the Army Base in Fresno, California. Jack and I assisted the major in bringing out the equipment that was salvaged.

All was calm and peaceful at the Tuolumne Meadow Ranger Station that September day in 1950, when Louis A. Miller, age 73, was reported missing somewhere in the vicinity of the Mono Pass Trail, south of Tioga Pass at the end of the old road. He and his son were fishing that afternoon. They had separated, with Louis going up the Dana Fork and his son fishing downstream. They were to meet at the car about 5 p.m. Louis did not return as planned, so the son, L. R. Miller, came to my Station and reported his father was missing.

I organized a ranger search team immediately made up of Ranger Lowery Brown and another ranger, and two members of the Miller family. We searched along the stream with lanterns until midnight with no success. Early next morning we got additional help from headquarters. Thirty searchers spent all day without finding a trace of Miller. We had searchers out in the area for ten days without success. Mounted rangers combed the area in the hope of finding Miller or a trace of him but found nothing. Notices were posted on the east side of the Sierra at various points with the hope that if he was a victim of amnesia or made his way out on foot some one would recognize him walking along a trail or road. Miller disappeared without a trace and what happened to him has remained a complete mystery to this day. Anyone With information concerning the missing man should contact his son, L. R. Miller, at 917 14th Street, Antioch, California.

In 1955 I was in charge of Tuolumne Meadow Ranger District and while patrolling along the Tioga Road, one mile above my Station, I discovered a man at the side of the road in a dazed condition. I stopped and he pointed to a car partially submerged in Dana Creek. “My friend,” was all the dazed man could say. The man inside, Chas. S. Welch, was dead when I reached him.

The car had turned over as it went over the bank. The driver, Jack C. MacKechnie, had been thrown clear and was in profound shock. I gave him first aid and made a report of the accident which I radioed into headquarters with a request for help. A doctor and ambulance arrived and the body of the dead man was removed to the Valley. The accident was caused by the driver going to sleep at the wheel.

Another fatal accident that summer was the case of Donald Hugh Genereux, of Stockton, California, age 14, who was killed by falling off Lembert Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. He had been climbing around the Dome with several other boys and lost his footing. Rangers Mullady and Jessen recovered the body several hundred feet below on a ledge. He died of skull fracture. Lembert Dome is a prominent land mark some five or six hundred feet above the floor of the Meadows.

It is smooth and rounding, but is quite accessible from the East side and is a popular hiking spot as it commands a beautiful view of the surrounding country. It was named after John B. Lembert who homesteaded in Tuolumne Meadows in 1885.

Another tragedy occurred in May 1956. Doctor Robert F. Johnson of San Francisco, age 28, fell to his death, seven hundred feet from Castle Cliff, near Yosemite Falls. He had taken a climb up Indian Canyon alone and had tried to take a short cut back down the mountain. He was reported lost by a friend when he didn’t return. Dr. Johnson had not registered with the rangers about his hiking route and it took several days of intensive searching before we found the body. Bloodhounds were used without success and finally a helicopter with Ranger Glen Gallison as observer located the body. A party of rangers and Sierra Club rock climbers reached the spot after much difficulty. It was impossible to take the body out of such a precipitous place, and permission from relatives was granted to bury the doctor at the scene of the fall.

On June 21, 1954, Assistant Chief Ranger Scarborough was killed by a rock slide off a cliff near Clark’s Point. Scarborough was traveling with Ranger Herb Ewing to the Merced Lake Ranger Station at the time. Suddenly and without warning, rocks ricocheted down the mountain and struck the horse and rider, knocking them both off the zig zag trail killing Scarborough instantly. The horse was seriously injured and had to be shot. This was the first accident of its kind where a ranger had been killed while riding the trails in Yosemite National Park.

July 20, 1954, Walter A. Gordon, age 26, an employee at Camp Curry, was reported missing. He was supposed to have been on a hike up the Ledge Trail to Glacier Point. Rangers searched for many days and again bloodhounds and a helicopter were used but no trace of him was ever found.

And on October 9, 1954, Orvar Laass, age 30, from Berkeley, California, while visiting his family, was reported missing while on a hike in the vicinity of Sugar Pine Bridge, in the Yosemite Valley. He disappeared completely and was never found although rangers searched for days. The case of Gordon and Laass were very strange for there were no clues as to what happened to them.

The time and effort spent in searching for lost persons is not only expensive for the ranger department but it also jeopardizes the lives of all searchers. Many times on searches I have participated in we took chances where one misstep could cost a life. We often wonder why people who come to the Park do foolish things and take chances they ordinarily wouldn’t think of in their home community.

The ranger files of strange accidents through the years reads like a storybook fiction.

For example, one day a severe lightning storm came up suddenly over Glacier Point when thirty horseback riders were on their way up to the Point. Lightning struck near the party, and a bolt of fire ran down the trail killing nine saddle horses. The riders fortunately were not injured, only shocked by the charge of lightning so close to them and having their horses killed. No one in the party will ever forget that experience.

Here is another unusual happening. Jeffery Stanton of Walnut Creek, California was camping in the Wawona Camp Ground. Some time during the early morning hours a coyote bit him on the head while he was asleep. He awakened in time to see the coyote trot away into the bushes. First Aid was given and the necessary treatment at the Lewis Memorial hospital for rabies. An extensive hunt by the rangers was made for a week but the coyote was never located and fortunately Mr. Stanton suffered no ill effect from the experience.

A similar case happened a month later when Karl M. Munson of Yosemite was camping in the Wawona Camp Ground. A coyote or wild dog scratched him on the head while he was sleeping on the ground. Here again no bad reactions occurred from the experience. But again the rangers hunted for days with no results. It was assumed that the animal was hunting for its food and passed by Karl when he turned or moved in his sleeping bag. The animal may have thought it was something to pounce on as they often do when searching for small game or birds.

Common accidents such as bear bites and scratches happen when people get too friendly with the bears when trying to feed them or take their pictures. When a visitor gets too close to the cubs there is almost always trouble. This is true, too, of deer who will strike with their sharp hoofs. The bucks can cause injuries with their large antlers. All visitors are cautioned against feeding or molesting the Park wildlife. There is a park regulation posted at all Stations and in the information circulars, “Do not feed the bear and deer.” Ski accidents in winter are all too common for skiing is a hazardous sport.

These specific accidents are just a few of the many that are reported and treated by rangers as part of a full day’s work. Anything beyond First Aid cases are reported to the Lewis Memorial Hospital for help or treatment.

Chapter VIII

VEEPS—SPECIAL GUESTS AND OLD TIMERS

It is generally considered that the success of a business, an organization, a state or a country largely depends on the one at the top who makes the final decisions. The late Stephen T. Mather, our first Director of National Parks from 1916 to 1930 was such a leader and I am sure we will never know all the good he did for this country. Had it not been for his foresight, determination and ability to get things done, the National Parks would never be what they are today.

I always felt honored by his friendship and benefited by our association. No ranger who came in personal contact with him could help but be inspired by his personality and quality leadership. In rough words, “he was a shot in the arm for the Park Service,” this is meant as the greatest compliment I am capable of paying to Stephen T. Mather. Today the things he stood for remain intact and are progressing with the times.

Horace M. Albright was another great leader dedicated to the betterment and protection of our Parks and the sound guidance of those men and women who made the Park Service their careers.

Many visitors from over the world have come to visit our Parks. We of the Park Service have through the years enjoyed the friendship of many fine people who visited the Park. It is not possible to write about all of the many who have come our way and was our pleasure to know.

John and Ralph Crow were two old-timers who camped with their families in the Tuolumne Meadows for many summers. They were early pioneers that took up land in what is known as Crows Landing, California. Their first trip to Yosemite was in 1900 with wagon teams over the Old Tioga Road. They camped on Dana Fork and later their camp was used by Mr. Mather. The Crows no doubt were the oldest family that kept coming each summer to the Park. They hiked and rode horseback over most of the park trails and knew many of the park officials. Mrs. Ralph Crow and son, James, live on the Old Homestead.

Ansel S. Williams, a teacher, and later City Superintendent of City Schools in Stockton, California, was an ardent camper and conservationist who visited Yosemite often. His first trip was made in 1900 with a companion and leading a burro who packed their food and camp gear. They spent one month in the Valley hiking over the trails. Once he accompanied me on a patrol trip into the north end of the Park. He loved Benson Lake and thought it the most beautiful lake in the Park. Mrs. Williams and Martha have been life long friends.

In 1928, Martha’s foster mother Mrs. James B. Wood of Bellevue, Ohio, paid us a visit. Mrs. Wood was the daughter of Peter G. Sharp, an early pioneer family, who had crossed the plains by wagon train in the early Gold Rush Days. During the long difficult trip Mrs. Sharp died and was buried on the plains. Mr. Sharp, left with two small children, settled at French Camp where he established a large grain ranch. Later he made a trip back to Ohio, married Emaline Wood of Bellevue, Ohio, and brought her to California. They had two daughters, Emma and Sophy. About this time Martha’s mother died in Stockton and Martha’s father was left with seven small children to look after. The Sharps took Martha to raise and be company for Mrs. Sharp. Soon after, Peter Sharp died and the family was forced to sell the ranch. Prior to this Miss Emma had married James B. Wood of Bellevue, Ohio. On the death of Mr. Sharp, his widow and Martha returned to Bellevue, to spend part of their time with the Woods. Mrs. Sharp died in 1910 .and Mrs. Wood in 1943. Both are buried in Rural Cemetery in the Peter G. Sharp lot in Stockton, California.

Mrs. Wood told me about the first camping trip to Yosemite the Sharp family made in 1900. They drove a six horse freight wagon into Wawona where they camped for one month. The road was hot and dusty and the trip most difficult. On the way to Glacier Point two of the horses died, perhaps from too much cold mountain water or poison weed. The dust was a foot deep on the road but in spite of the long difficult trip they remembered Yosemite as a most scenic place.

Among the early pioneers who came to the Park for many summers was Doctor Chester Moyle and family of Merced, California. He had some interesting tales to tell about his family who were early settlers around Merced. In 1902 the James Mark Moyle family made their first camping trip to Yosemite Valley, driving a team of horses hitched to a small freight wagon called a sheep wagon. They camped on Yosemite Creek near the Swinging Bridge. Chester was a boy of seven years at the time. One day while riding up the Yosemite Falls trail his horse fell on Chester breaking his leg. Doctor Sease, who was the resident doctor at that time, set the bone and splinted it. The Moyles make many camping trips in the Park and the doctor is active in the Private Riding Clubs of Merced and Mariposa Counties.

Many of our Park visitors were nationally known. Will Rogers loved the Yosemite. Mr. Albright brought Congressmen and Senators on inspections as well as Duncan McDuffie and Dr. Buwalda of the Yosemite Advisory Board. Even Cardinals and Bishops came to the Park to relax. In 1930 Cardinal Hayes, Arch Bishop Hanna and party of Priests, twenty in all, arrived as special guests. Park Naturalist Harwell was in charge and I was assigned to drive one of the official cars to the Mariposa Grove where lunch was served under the Big Trees and from there back to the Railroad Station in Merced. This Party was very gracious and appreciative of the service and courtesy extended them. They praised the Park Service and rangers for their fine work.

On July 15, 1938, President Franklin D. Roosevelt visited Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. All rangers were given special instructions and detailed to their respective posts of duty. As a result, the protection of the President was most successfully carried through as planned.

Ranger Billy Nelson. The old camp ground ranger.

The Chief Ranger was in charge of special details and I was one of the rangers assigned to the luncheon place near the Sunset Tree in Upper Grove. The President had his Secret Service men with him including a former ranger, Charles Rich. The Chief did a splendid job on this protection. It was a most interesting experience and I am happy to have played a small part in the event.

Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt on inspection trip of the C.C.C. Camp
at Wawona. A Ranger escort.

Earlier we had the pleasure of welcoming Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt and her secretary when they visited the Park from July 21 to 24, 1934. A camping trip to Young Lake with Chief Ranger Townsley in charge was planned for them. Ranger Nelson, Ranger Brown and I set up the camp and looked after the food and sleeping gear. Ranger Brown was the cook, Nelson had charge of the equipment, the Chief, the guide, and I handled the mail, telegrams and messages to and from camp.

Mrs. Roosevelt was a most charming and gracious camper extremely interested in all Park activities. At the time an unnamed lake near Mt. Conness was being stocked with Rainbow Trout and was named Roosevelt Lake in her honor. She assisted with the plant, showing great interest in how it was done. Mrs. Roosevelt offered to help with the cooking. Ranger Brown the Cook, declined the offer for he figured he should do the work himself. A few years later Mrs. Roosevelt made another trip to the Park and visited our Station at Wawona. She said she wanted to know how the rangers lived. Martha had the pleasure of showing her around our quarters. Our display of maps and information circulars at the Station interested her particularly. We had the pleasure of being luncheon guests of the CCC Camp that day at Captain Rockwell’s invitation and were seated at Mrs. Roosevelt’s table.

Soon after this event I received a token of appreciation, a paper knife, made of redwood coming from the White House roof, Washington, D.C., with my name and date engraved on it. This I have prized very highly. So in reminiscing back through the years of our contacts and friendships of people from all walks of life it gives one a feeling of great satisfaction, to have served some in a small way.

Chapter IX

SOME UNUSUAL EXPERIENCES

One day early in October 1922 while on patrol near Tenaya Lake, my saddle horse stepped in a squirrel hole and injured its ankle. It must have been very painful for the animal could hardly make it the short distance to our station, I doctored it with hot compresses and liniment but it did not improve. This left me with only my pack horse and Martha’s saddle horse.

It was near the end of season, fall was in the air and soon we could expect our first big storm. The Chief Ranger phoned that we’d better close the station and come in next day. It was decided I would take the horses down the Tenaya Lake Trail and that Martha would wait for Clyde Boothe, who was driving the Superintendent’s car with a special visitor, and should be by about noon. I got an early start with the horses for it was slow traveling down the trail with the lame horse. Martha waited at the Tenaya Lake Ranger Cabin for the car to pick her up. By the middle of the afternoon there was no car or word from Boothe. Martha was getting more uneasy as the hours passed. She finally telephoned Superintendent Lewis. He said, “Where are you Martha? The car broke down at Aspen Valley and we will not be able to get there today. You catch a ride down with any one that comes along.”

Well at that time of year rides were mighty scarce. But in about fifteen minutes she heard the sound of horses on the road. Martha ran out and it was none other than Bridgeport Tom with an extra saddle horse. I am sure Martha was as surprised as the Indian but in due time Tom was made to understand the circumstance and consented to let Martha ride the extra saddle pony. Tom said, “Squaw Horse no ride good.” Martha soon found this was an undersstatement. The pony had a tough mouth and wanted to eat all the grass along the trail. The Indian had been using it hard in packing the acorns across the mountains to their winter home near Mono Lake and the pony wouldn’t be hurried. Martha could not keep up with Tom who was riding a fast single-footer. “Squaw Horse” was old and stubborn and jolted hard when she decided to move at a snail’s pace. Finally Martha called Tom to come back and lead her horse as she couldn’t keep her going. This idea worked better in make-up time but the ride was rough and tiring for Martha trying to hang on without getting all jolted apart.

Near the Snow Creek Ford five Indians appeared with ten pack animals loaded down with acorns. In the lead was Harry Johnson whom we had known for some time as he was a Valley Indian. There was much talk in Indian and then Harry recognized Martha and asked what she was doing riding with Tom and what was the trouble? Martha told him why I had ridden ahead with the lame horse and about the promised ride for her that never materialized. There was some more talk. From then on Bridgeport Tom was quite solicitous of Martha’s welfare. He would say, “You good rider we get down fast, you make it fine, we have big Pow Wow tonight; you come.”

Martha was happy to see the end of the Trail at Mirror Lake and part company with her Indian Guide and his hard riding pony.

While patrolling the Big Trees, Ranger Sault and I were stationed at the little cabin and our horses in the corral in back. I was to feed the horses as Ranger Sault was acting cook. At 6 p.m. it was customary to feed the usual amount of hay and grain. On this particular evening I was about to perform this routine chore. As I approached the corral the four head of horses came charging to the gate at full gallop. One horse hit the top rail and knocked it free of the gate and struck me on the side of my head knocking me out cold. The horses then jumped over the bottom rail and ran down the road. Ranger Sault heard the commotion and came out to see what had happened. He found me still out and flat on the ground. There was a bad bump back of my ear and an open. wound. Sault carried me to the cabin and applied first aid which brought me out of shock. I asked, “What happened?”

Sault said, “Plenty” and continued his phone call to the hospital consulting with the doctor.

The doctor told him that if I had a headache to come in at once. I didn’t have a headache but was sore and dazed from the bump. Then a strange thing happened. While Ranger Sault was talking to the doctor the door opened, an arm reached in and placed a bottle on the table. A label on it said, “Take tablespoonful in hot coffee.” I took it as directed and it worked. In half an hour I was up walking around ready for our fish fry that evening at Ed Baxter’s Cabin in the Upper Grove. We never knew who left the bottle.

I have witnessed three major floods in the Valley that caused great damage. 1937-1950-1955 all in the fall—November and December. I saw the spring flood, May 30, 1919, but this wasn’t as bad as the other three where roads, bridges and trails were severely damaged. In one flood up to ten inches of rain fell in three days. This helped to melt what snow there was left on the mountains adding to the rainfall. Seven major fall floods have taken place in the Yosemite history from 1861 to 1955.

December 22, 1955, torrential rains continued for several days, the Sentinel Bridge gauge registered sixteen feet, a dangerous flood stage. At the height of the flood there were fifty-two inches of water in the Yosemite Store building. The All Year Highway was closed by slides and wash-outs and damage was done to the main roads in and out of the Park. All travel both ways was stopped until December 26th. The Wawona Road was made passable on December 28th. The Merced Road wasn’t made passable until January 19, 1956.

July 21, 1955, about 5 p.m. a major cloud burst hit over the Lee Vining Canyon dropping about six inches of rain in a very short time. This was an unusual occurrence, and many cars traveling up and down the Tioga were stalled between big slides and wash outs. Several cars were damaged and washed down the slides. Ranger Eckhardt was off duty but he assisted many of the stranded motorists and may well have saved some lives. He did this on his own time and at his own expense. Deeds like this will be long remembered. This particular cloudburst destroyed most of Tioga Lodge at Mono Lake and Mrs. Cunningham, the proprietor, suffered a great loss in property damage. Fortunately there were no casualties. The Tioga Pass and Lee Vining Road was closed to traffic for two weeks before repairs made the road safe to travel.

January 1930, the local snow surveys were linked with the broad program for the Sierra Nevada project. The Yosemite National Park and State of California organized on a cooperative basis the High Sierra Snow Surveys. Once a month, from January through April, rangers were assigned on trips out to the designated snow courses, to measure the depth of snow and the water content. On the basis of the rangers reports much valuable data was referred to the State Water Resources in Sacramento. From these reports they could estimate how much water could be expected to flow into the storage dams.

Food and bedding were always cached in the cabins in the fall before the snows closed the roads. Cabins were located at Snow Creek, Snow Flat, Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne Meadows and Ostrander Lake. Over the years, a great deal of time and energy has been spent on these surveys. Skiing or snow shoeing was a necessity and had to be learned as this was the only way to get to the Snow Courses in winter. The snow would pile up from six to fourteen feet, and climbing out of the Valley over the steep trails was a man sized job. Any one riot accustomed to Skis or snowshoes was just out of luck. It took a great deal of practice to become adept to either mode of travel.

Here is an experience of a team of rangers on a Snow Survey Trip. Late in February 1930, Ralph Anderson, Barton Herschler, Jerry Mernin and Jack Sinclair took off on the long survey trip to Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne Meadows and other courses along the Tioga Road. After climbing the zig zags, which took about three hours, they arrived at Snow Creek Cabin. It was particularly difficult climbing the last lap for the snow was piling up rapidly under leaden skies. Ralph and Jack were novices and shouldn’t have gone along but they were determined to make the trip. After having a second breakfast at Snow Creek they took off optimistically following the blazes of the Tenaya Lake Trail until they ran out of blazes in the storm. Even on a clear day the blazes across the bare granite stretches were hard to locate and with the snow blowing, blaze and landmark were blotted out. By 5 p.m. the winter night closed in and they knew something had to be done. Barton had brought along a small hand axe on his belt. It wasn’t much of an axe but it proved a Godsend in helping to get a fire started. After the fire was going they beat down the snow around the burning snag until they were somewhat sheltered from the wind. It subsided during the night but gobs of light snow sifted down for hours while they sat huddled around the burning snag. There was no chance to relax for pieces of burning wood would thump down on them occasionally and they had to move positions from time to time for safety.

Alder Creek Entrance Station, 1926—Wawona Road

However, their best chance for survival was to stay by the fire until daylight when they would have a better chance of finding the Tenaya Lake Cabin. No one knew for sure just where they were during the night.

For food they munched on the left overs from lunch and at least didn’t suffer from hunger. They had “Old Trapper Nelsons” along with the detachable knapsack which served well that night. They rested with one hip on the frame work section and a shoulder on the knapsack part and got some short naps. They needed the rest to restore energy for the morrow. All they could see beyond the firelight was the snow covered hemlocks drooping their heads like hooded monks at some death ritual and it wasn’t a comforting thought under the circumstances.

The weather cleared at daybreak so they took off up the canyon and were soon out on top. Far in the distance lay the great white blanket of Tenaya Lake. It was tough sledding and they took turns breaking trail through the deep new snow. It was tough, slow going but at least they knew where they were and heading for safety.

They reached the Tenaya Cabin around 10 a.m. and ate their fill. By noon they were in bed catching up on some much needed sleep. They slept all afternoon then got up for another big meal and back to bed for the night. Everyone was back to normal by the next morning. Then they decided to split up the Party. Jack and Ralph would head back to Yosemite Creek to take courses enroute, while Barton and Jerry would go on to Tuolumne Meadows to take courses there. They figured this would save time.

Jack and Ralph proceeded on to the top of the hill above Yosemite Creek and decided to take a short cut straight down to the cabin instead of going the half mile further around by the road. That was a mistake. When they reached a spot where they thought the cabin should be there was no cabin. After searching for some time in the waning daylight with no success, they had no choice but to make preparations for another uncomfortable night in zero weather. Morning broke clear, and after some scouting, they finally found the cabin buried with snow. They shoveled open an upper window and crawled inside. The cabin was dry, wood and food had been cached for such needs so there was sufficient. They stayed there that night. The next day they took the snow course readings and returned to the Valley none the worse for their experience.

Both ranger teams returned to the Valley with only minor frost bites. Luck was with these rangers for such trips are hazardous. Present day safety precautions would not permit such a dangerous trip.

February 11, 1930, Ranger Bill Merrill and I rode our saddle horses over the Wawona Road, inspecting the Ranger Stations enroute. We covered Chinquapin, Alder Creek and South Fork Canyon Tent. A temporary patrol tent near Wawona, established a ranger patrol station above the Private Property, Section 35, prior to acquiring the Wawona Hotel property. We made several patrols along the south boundary-before returning to headquarters.

On December 5, 1931, Ranger Ernst and I were assigned to the Engineering Survey Crew, with Engineers Shilko and Smith, to run a road survey from Glacier Point to the Sentinel Dome Summit. There was about five feet of snow on the ground at the time so we had to use snowshoes to get around. The job took approximately a week. We had our meals and lodging at the Mountain House. It was cold with lots of snow before we completed the job and returned to the Valley.

February 23, 1932, I was assigned with Ranger Eastman and Ranger Irwin to make the long snow survey trip to White Wolf Meadow, Yosemite Creek, Tenaya Lake and Tuolumne Meadows. We started by way of the Tenaya Lake Trail and half way up the zig-zags we encountered heavy snow and the going was difficult. Ranger Eastman suffered with leg cramps which bothered him for about an hour. The first night out we stayed at Snow Creek Cabin where food and beds were stored for our use. Park Naturalist Harwell accompanied us as far as the Snow Creek Cabin and returned to the Valley next day.

Bright and early in the morning the three of us started across country and came out on the Tioga Road near Porcupine Flat. From there we went to Yosemite Creek Cabin, where we stayed the second night. Food and blankets were cached here in a tin box. Dry wood was stacked in one end of the kitchen and soon we had a cozy fire ping and the cabin warm. Nights are cold at this elevation with temperatures down to zero and below at times.

The following day we reached White Wolf Meadow and took the snow course and inspected the buildings. To show how deep the snow was we took a picture of two of us on the roof where we’d snowshoed from the front of the building. A copy of this picture still hangs on the wall of the White Wolf Lodge dining room.

The next day, following along the Old Tioga Road, we plodded slowly

Ranger Eastman on patrol near Lake Eleanor, 1925

through Porcupine Flat, and Snow Flat, arriving at the Tenaya Lake Ranger Cabin about 5 p.m.

We also had food, bedding and plenty of dry wood cached in the cabin. A day’s travel by snowshoes takes plenty out of one, and these cabins always looked mighty good at nightfall.

The snow measurements next morning were 8 feet on the level. We proceeded on to Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station where the snow course measured 6 feet. Then on to Fletcher Lake the next day and returned to the Tuolumne Meadow Station. That night seemed unusually cold. I piled on six blankets but was still cold, and with reason, for the next morning I looked at the thermometer outside of the cabin and it read fifteen below zero. After completing our snow measurements we returned by way of Tenaya Lake and stayed in the cabin there one night. The next day we were back at headquarters with blisters on our feet and faces as brief mementos of the trip.

The winter of 1950 came early. I closed the Tuolumne Meadows Station and moved to the Tioga Pass Station where ranger Brown and I batched it for several days. The elevation there is 9,941 feet. The evening of October twenty-fifth clouds began to roll over the Pass and the wind increased to thirty miles per hour. By midnight it started to rain and kept up all night. We knew in the morning that we were in for a storm of possibly several days duration. I reported to the Chief Ranger’s Office on our short wave radio for the telephone connections had gone out some time during the night. After reporting the general conditions I told Ranger Hoyt that we would start closing the road and Station and for them to close the road at Crane Flat as it would be too dangerous for travel. I also told him that we would start down as soon as possible.

A visitor’s car was already in trouble having stalled near Tenaya Lake. The Curry Company tow truck was taking it back to the Valley. After draining the Station and boarding the windows securely Ranger Brown and I headed down the road towards the Valley hoping to catch up with the tow truck for company. We caught up with the tow truck towing the visitors car and the three cars stayed together, Ranger Brown was driving his personal car, I the patrol pick-up and the tow truck last.

After reaching the top of the grade near May Lake Junction, timber blown down from the high winds of the day before was all across the road. We would have to stop, get out and saw a dead lodge pole pine in two so we could get through. Then we’d go on until another roadblock necessitated our doing the same again. We sawed some twenty to twenty-five fallen trees before reaching White Wolf. It was snowing and blowing hard most of the afternoon. We had only a cross cut saw and were beginning to get tired and cold. The wind we estimated was about forty miles per hour. We were traveling slowly between White Wolf and Smoky Jack Meadow when a red fir tree fell across the road in front of us. This stopped us as there was no way to get around. We were just debating what to do when, with a swish and crash, a five foot thick fir tree fell on top of Ranger Brown’s car mashing it almost to the ground. It was a close call for all three of us. Sizing up the situation, it seemed the best thing to do would be to unhook the tow truck and use it for our transportation as the other two cars were hemmed in. We drove it around the trees and up a small bank of the road to get through. The four wheel drive truck finally made it around the two downed trees and back on the road. We hoped that the Road Crew would be coming out to meet us and clear the road from the other end, Crane Flat Station. Every so often we had to stop to cut down timber blocking the road and in some cases drag out the large tops of fir trees that had fallen off in the storm.

We reached Crane Flat Ranger Station about midnight tired, cold and hungry. After building a fire in the wood range, making some tea and warming up a can of soup we felt better. After resting a while we heard the sound of a power saw down the road a short distance. This was music to our ears and we went down and met the Park Service Road Crew working their way through from the Valley, as this road was also closed by many downed trees. A short way back was Assistant Chief Ranger Robinson driving a large V snow plow. We related our experiences for they had been concerned about us. Following the snow plow we made headquarters, arriving home about 2 a.m. It had been a long and mighty tough day.

All during the afternoon and evening of the storm, Martha and Ranger Brown’s fiance worried about our safety and were mighty happy to learn of our safe return to the Valley.

The following day a road crew removed the tree from Ranger Brown’s car and towed it to the Valley. One of the crew followed with my pickup truck.

Chapter X

HOSPITAL AND MEDICAL SERVICE

After the U. S. Army turned over the administration to the Interior Department in 1914, hospital and medical service was needed. From June 27, 1914, to August 21, 1914, a civilian, Doctor H. H. Sheffield, practiced medicine in the valley. The War Department granted the use of its hospital under the control of a Non-Commissioned Officer.

The Army Camp Hospital built by the War Department in 1913 was remodeled in 1915. It was located not far from the Old Yosemite Lodge but up against the cliff. In 1915 Doctor J. S. Brooks and Doctor E. H. Coleman, both physicians and surgeons from San Francisco, opened the hospital building for the practice of medicine and the sale of drugs under the authority granted by the Department of the Interior. They had one trained nurse on duty. Many accidents and serious sick cases were taken care of there and the small staff provided a much needed service.

In 1916, Superintendent W. B. Lewis reported 123 cases were treated in the hospital during the year and 1,566 calls were made outside. Seven bed patients was the limit the hospital could handle. An adequate X-ray machine and other necessary hospital equipment were needed so that, necessary major operations could be performed.

Doctor Fredrick Stein came in later to take over the hospital and was in charge until 1923 when Doctor Claude Church replaced him. A Doctor Hunt followed Church for a short time to be succeeded by Doctor Chester Moyle in the fall of 1926. A serious accident case on the El Portal Road near the Dam when a truck turned over seriously injured nine workmen. Dr. Moyle handled some of the injured and others were taken to Merced by Curry Company Stages. Several of the accident victims died.

Doctor Hartly G. Dewey opened the new W. B. Lewis Memorial Hospital during Christmas week 1929. The services to Yosemite rendered in this fine hospital were much needed as the increase in visitors, as well as permanent and seasonal employees, had doubled during the past decade. Dr. Dewey needed additional help so another doctor and more nurses were added to the staff. A permanent Dentist Office was also established for full time work, with Doctor Raleigh Davies in charge.

Doctor Avery Sturm joined Doctor Dewey at the Lewis Memorial Hospital in 1935. This team practiced until 1942 when Doctor Sturm entered Military Service during World War 2. Doctor Dewey’s contract was up in April 1943, so he, too, left the Park. Doctor Kune was in charge through 1943. Then the Navy Doctors from the Ahwahnee Hospital took over. The Navy took over the Ahwahnee Hotel, also on June 23, 1943 and continued through December 15, 1945. These Navy Doctors took care of all cases, local employees as well as visitors that needed medical attention. In 1945 Doctor Avery Sturm returned from Military Service and took over the Contract from the Park Service and has operated the hospital ever since.

The Lewis Memorial Hospital was dedicated to the memory of Superintendent W. B. Lewis, the first superintendent under the National Park Service. Yosemite has been very fortunate in having Doctor Sturm as Medical Director in charge. His high qualifications and ability in many special services of medicine have given him a wide reputation. The Sturm Family have been very popular and highly regarded by everyone.

The year 1959, Doctor Sturm reported his staff consisted of four doctors and nine nurses. The present hospital has six two-bed rooms, one surgical bedroom and two three-bed wards. 1959 was an extremely large “hospital year,” with more accidents and calls than any other previous year. The hospital and staff have furnished a much needed service to Yosemite.

Chapter XI

FISH PLANTING—HATCHERY—AND WILD LIFE

Fish Planting is one of the big jobs a ranger had to do in summer. During my tenure as a park ranger I assisted in planting thousands of young trout and this required a special technique. It was done by loading the fry in pack cans, usually five gallon cans, then transporting the cans by truck and pack mules to the lakes and streams in the remote areas of the Park. This moving of the fry had to be done with great care to insure that the temperature of the water in the cans was held within a few degrees to the water temperature of the hatchery where they were spawned. Many times we carried cakes of ice to maintain the same temperature of the hatchery water. Frequent stops had to be made at streams in order to change water. Later mechanical devices were installed on our trucks to give the fish the proper amount of oxygen. Packing the fry containers on mule back required keeping the containers in motion until the lake or stream was reached.

In the past few years fish planting has been completely changed. Now it is done by airplanes. This has been most successful, also quicker and less expensive.

Fish planting by pack animals was hard exacting work and many trips had to be made off the main roads and trails which required a long day of travel.

Back in 1930 I decided to plant fry in an unnamed lake in my district. I scouted the area for several days before I found a way to take pack animals into the lake. Then I arranged to bring in two pack loads of Rainbow Trout. The lake was situated high on Kuna Crest and had never been planted before. Through careful planning I got the little trout in the lake without mishap. Three years later the lake produced some of the finest fishing in the area. By this plant I established the right to call the lake, Bingaman Lake and that’s how it is listed on our maps.

The first report of planting fish in Yosemite was in 1878 by a man named Kibbie. He was a homesteader living at Lake Eleanor and he planted some rainbow trout in Eleanor, Laurel and Vernon Lakes. The first official plant of rainbow trout made in Yosemite by Fish and ,Game Commission was in 1892. The Washburn Brothers had erected a fish hatchery at Wawona in 1895. This was operated by the State Fish Commission and millions of fry have been distributed in the lakes and streams since that date. Ed Gordon a packer working for Washburn Brothers at Wawona, participated in making many plants of fry in the Park. The U. S. Troops also assisted during the time they were on duty in the Park.

In 1919, The State Fish and Game Commission operated a temporary hatchery in Yosemite Valley under an agreement with the Park Service and by 1926 a permanent hatchery with 52 troughs was built. This operated up to 1957 when it was closed and part of the equipment was moved to Moccasin on the Tuolumne River.

An egg taking station was also established at Frog Creek near Lake Eleanor and this was operated for many years. Here eggs were taken from live fish and were hatched in the Yosemite Hatchery. This supplied millions of young fry to be planted in the Yosemite lakes and streams.

The Rainbow is the native trout in these waters. Brown Trout, Eastern Brook, and a few Golden Trout were the principle species brought in and planted in later years.

In the early years trout fishing in the waters of Yosemite was excellent, but with the coming of the increase in visitor fishermen each year it is impossible to keep the fishing constantly good. Sometimes it is said that there are often more fishermen than fish.

The Yosemite National Park is a sanctuary for all wild life. Deer and bear are plentiful. It is estimated that there are 8,000 deer in the Park. These migrate to and from the foot hills adjacent to the Park for reasons of feed and existence during the heavy Park snow pack in winter.

Common black bear protected by the Park have held their own through the years. Approximately 400 bear have been given as a census figure. There are a few mountain lions and many smaller animals, such as, coyotes, bob cats, fox, martin, badger, skunk, grey squirrel, douglas squirrel, belding ground squirrel, common California ground squirrel, several species of chipmunks and many others. Park laws protect all these animals. Any one killing or molesting the wild life is subject to arrest and prosecution by the U. S. Commissioner of the Park.

Bears are the worst source of trouble for the ranger. Three times our Station in Tuolumne Meadows was broken into by a hungry bear. This was usually in the fall before hibernation time. Sometimes these forays were made after the hibernation time. A hungry bear will use all his power to enter a building if he smells food. In our case the bear tore the shutter and window frame out and then entered through the window. He found food from the snow survey cache left there in the fall by the rangers. What a bear does not eat he destroys. He’ll puncture holes in cans and rip bedding and mattresses to threads. Why they will do this I do not know. Every precaution is used to guard against such vicious break ins. Sometimes a metal trap on wheels with a trap door is baited and set near the cabin. This method has been quite successful and the rangers have been able to trap and haul a number of these bad actors out of the area. In some cases the vicious ones are destroyed as they are a hazard to life and property.

In 1924 serious drought conditions existed over the State. It was one of the driest years on record. Due to the drought an epidemic of hoof and mouth disease hit the Yosemite deer herd. It also hit the cattle along the westside of the Park and into the foothill country. State and federal agencies cooperated to bring the epidemic under control. Hunting camps were established along the west boundary and included Big Meadow, Merced Grove, Ackerson Meadow, Tiltill Valley and Jaw Bone.

Ranger Adair and Rusty on patrol

Nearly twenty thousand deer were killed along the west side of the Park in order to stop the spread.

In the winter of 1924, Ranger Adair and I were assigned to the inspection and investigation of the camps in the Park and to keep reports of the progress. We made routine patrols and regular visits to the camps that winter and spring. I still question if there were any diseased deer in the Yosemite herd. However, it was argued that the method of control was needed to stop the spread elsewhere so the organized program of control was carried through.

Boundary patrols to protect the deer from poachers is part of a ranger’s duty. I have covered many miles on horseback on the lookout for poachers. All during the fall hunting season on the outside of the Park there would be hundreds of hunters close to the boundary line. It was a temptation for a few to slip over now and then, and more than once a poacher has been caught by a ranger.

In my thirty-five years of experience I have observed only one Mountain Lion and one Wolverine. These are rarely seen in their natural habitat.

Chapter XII

CHASING LAW BREAKERS

During the early 1920’s there was a lot of new construction in Yosemite. Work was started on the All Year Highway, from Mariposa to Yosemite and convicts from the State Prison were used on much of this work. A number of them escaped from their camps and were apprehended by park rangers. Several times I was notified by the Chief Ranger to be on the lookout for them after a break. One time we were out a day and night searching for four reported in the Big Meadow area. Rangers Townsley, Boothe, Rich, Nelson, Sault and myself were watching all trails and road junctions. About five o’clock in the morning Rangers Boothe, Nelson and Sault flushed the four escapees out of a brush patch. They gave up without much trouble and told us they were trying to make their way over the mountains to Nevada.

One August afternoon in 1921 a lone bandit held up and robbed the Tenaya Lake Camp. The bandit who operated with a mask and at gun point, took three hundred and fifty dollars from the manager then made his getaway on foot. The manager immediately notified my station by phone. Rangers Nelson, Miller and I rode on horseback the eight miles to Tenaya Lake and contacted Frank Ewing, our Trail Crew Foreman, who was camped there. He offered to make a patrol along the road to check on any lone hiker while Rangers Nelson, Miller and I covered the area around the Lake looking for said bandit.

I had reporded to the Chief Ranger about the holdup and he told me to continue the search and check all trails in that area for lone hikers and tracks. It was an all night hunt with no success. The next morning Ranger Wegner arrived and took charge. We continued all that day with no clues so that evening the search was given up.

A few years later this same bandit was caught in Oregon pulling the same kind of a job and confessed he was the one that robbed Tenaya Lake Lodge. While serving time in the Oregon jail he stated the first night after the holdup at Tenaya Lake he worked his way down the trail to Yosemite Valley. He saw the ranger riding fast up the trail and he slept in the Yosemite cemetery that night.

One day late in June 1943 Ranger Bill Davies, two young high school boys and I were clearing logs from the trail. We had started from Hetch Hechy that morning with food and sleeping gear, my two pack mules and saddle horses. We had planned to camp at the City Trail Camp about five miles distant at the Rancheria Creek crossing. Working along the trail bordering the reservoir we sawed out about ten downed trees and arrived at the planned camp site about four-thirty p.m. While unpacking I thought that I heard a moan or low wail coming from an old tool house about three hundred yards up the trail. I told Bill about it and he said it couldn’t be as this was a Closed Military Area and no one was permitted in here during the war. Then we both heard the sound. Only this time it sounded more like a cry for help. I told Bill to watch the back of the tool house while I went to the front door. As I neared the building a voice from inside called, “Come in and get me you have been a long time coming.” I was armed, so trusting on the old 45 Colt I kicked the door open. Inside, on the floor covered with pine needles, lay a man that looked like a skeleton.

I said, “Who are you and what are you doing here?”

He replied in a weak voice, “Who are you?” Then added “I’m starved give me food. Today I was ready to die.”

He went on to say that he’d had nothing to eat for the past week but rattlesnake meat and was starving to death. I assured him I would give him food. He went on to say that about a week ago he fell into one of the rushing creeks back up in the higher country and lost his pack, food and gun. When he arrived at the Reservoir Site and saw the posted signs, “Keep Out Military Area,” he preferred to starve rather than go through and face the Guards at the Hetch Hetchy Dam. Later I found out why.

Bill prepared some soup for our patient but we only gave him a small amount at first as he was in no shape to take on much food at this time. When he had eaten he told us his name was Lewis. I explained to him that it would be necessary to take him to headquarters for medical care and investigation. He wanted to avoid passing the Guards but Bill and I secured him firmly to the pack mule for we were taking no chances of him falling off or trying to get away. Then we rode down to Hetch Hetchy and crossed the Dam and through the Guard Station. We stopped at the cook house for more food. Lewis insisted on taking a shower. He said it would make him feel much better so I gave permission for he really needed one. The shower and a little more food and Lewis was feeling better.

I reported my find to the Chief Ranger at headquarters and he said to bring Lewis in. We transferred to my patrol pickup, then drove to headquarters where I turned Lewis over to the Chief Ranger. Through Military and Police files we found that Lewis was a draft dodger and had been on the travel from place to place for over a year. When the check on him was completed we turned him over to the army and he was placed in a military prison for the duration.

The next day I returned to the boys at Trail Camp and we proceeded on our trail clearing job for another two days of work before returning to Mather Ranger Station.

Chapter XIII

WORLD WAR II CONDITIONS IN YOSEMITE

After December 7, 1941, when the World War II started, protection of water systems and dams in the U.S.A. was of the utmost importance. He[t]ch Hetchy Dam and the entire system, became our number one problem. It was necessary to cooperate with the California National Guard to assist in the placing of guards around the dams and power houses. The Hetch Hetchy Dam, Resorvoir, Lake Eleanor Dam became “Closed Military Areas,” and were so posted. A Military Guard was quartered at Mather Camp and Hetch Hetchy.

The Superintendent ordered me back to Mather Ranger Station where I could act as a coordinator with the guards and city officials in reference to all protection in that area. Twenty-four hour protection was set with full military orders to be ready for any event. Sabotage was expected and no unauthorized travel in the military zone was permitted. The guards were armed with rifles and prepared to use them. It was my duty to keep in touch with the officers, the city officials and park headquarters. Only rangers, fire guards, park employees and city employees were permitted to enter the closed area. It was strictly an emergency operation that summer. Forest fire protection was stepped up. Fire lookouts were instructed to be on twenty-four hour alerts. The ranger force was alerted to be prepared for any emergency.

A number of our rangers were called up for military service. Travel was almost at a standstill. On December 1, 1942, gas rationing went into effect and only essential trips were made. The older rangers who remained in the Park during the war years had many additional jobs to perform. Maintenance was at a minimum. Added to the rangers’ regular duties were sanitation jobs, cleaning comfort stations, cutting winter wood for our quarters, clearing the trails of down timber, and doing many other jobs that ordinarily would have been done by maintenance crews. Telephone communication had to be maintained and it was up to the rangers to keep lines open to the outpost stations.

Twenty-four hour protection was given to all facilities, including the utility area where a ranger was assigned to the night watch. This assignment was divided among the rangers, each taking his turn.

The summer period brought additional problems with forest fire hazards and where to find enough men to fight the fires if they started. We recruited high school boys and four F men who were not able to enter the Armed Services.

The rangers who remained to guard our National Parks and Resources throughout the war years also served their country. These rangers received no special benefits for their services such as G.I. benefits, etc. The old rangers were ready and willing to take over the extra work as their patriotic duty. The Navy took over the Ahwahnee Hotel and made a Hospital out of it from June 23, 1943, to December 15, 1945. Many service men were brought to the hotel for treatment and rest.

During the critical years of the war there was a question at one time whether or not the Park should be closed to all vacation travel. It was decided not to close except in restricted areas. I think this was a good decision for it gave many people a chance to relax and rest away from the war tensions.

February 23, 1944, Oscar Sedergren was transferred to the Park as Chief Ranger. He was previously stationed in Mt. Rainier National Park. John Wegner was also transferred to Sequoia National Park as Chief Ranger.

April 20, 1944, I was assigned to take charge of Wawona and of Chinquapin Districts with headquarters at Wawona. There wasn’t must help to take charge of in those days and I was both boss and a one man crew.

During the early part of the World War II a tungsten mine was discovered near Bonds Pass within the boundaries of the Park. After some controversy regarding park regulations restrictions were lifted because of the need for this particular metal for war purposes, and the War Department and Park Service arranged to allow the ore to be mined and packed out by mule to Kennedy Meadows, about twenty miles by mountain trail. Fifty pack mules were used as there were some seventy-five tons of high grade ore packed out. This was all done in two summer’s work. It appeared that only the one out cropping was discovered in this location. Later, other tungsten mines were located on the east side of the Sierras.

June 27, 1943, a B24 Bomber with seven army men aboard crashed on Koip Peak Glacier near the Park Boundary and all aboard the plane were killed. Rangers Danner and Caster of the Tuolumne Meadow Station, with the help of forest service rangers, removed the bodies. By the end of the year 1945, the rangers who had served in the armed services started to return to their respective jobs. They had been promised their same jobs and places when they returned. I was in charge of Wawona District, the place Ranger Mernin held when he entered the Armed Service, so it was my move to vacate for him. On May 22, 1946, we transferred back to Mather Ranger District.

Chapter XIV

CIVILIAN CONSERVATION CAMPS

President Franklin D. Roosevelt established the Civilian Conservation Corps, in 1933, as an emergency program. The CCC greatly benefited the National Parks for their work of maintenance, new projects and conservation work as well as assisting in forest fire protection.

By June 6, 1933 five Civilian Conservation Camps were established in Yosemite. These Camps were set up at Empire Meadow, Crane Flat, Tamarack Flat, and Wawona, and one outside of the Park, on the middle fork of the Tuolumne River.

During that summer the rangers worked with the training of the CCC Crews in forest fire control and techniques. Every boy was given instruction and they assisted materially in fire control work.

One of the year round Civilian Conservation Camps was established at Wawona, with about two hundred young men. While the men were in camp they were under the supervision of an Army Officer. Their work day was six hours, thirty hours per week, under supervision of a camp superintendent and crew foreman.

The Camp at Wawona functioned exceedingly well. There was excellent cooperation between the Park Chiefs, Army Officers, and the civilian personnel. Captain Wm. S. Rockwell, left an outstanding record in the history of his camp and he was well liked by every one in the area.

Captain Rockwell arrived in Wawona with Co. 487, CCC, on September 15, 1937, and departed November 15, 1940. Later he served in the Hawaiian Department, Schofield Barracks T.H. 1941-1945 and was with Gen. Mac Arthur’s occupation forces in Japan 1948-1952. In 1953 he was in Europe located in Vienna Austria. He was promoted to Colonel as Post Quartermaster of the Vienna Command. He retired and is now living in Savannah, Georgia, with his wife and son.

The CCC Boys were a Godsend when it came to fighting forest fires. We were fortunate in having qualified foremen to lead the CCC crews. Bob Russell and Les Phillips were experienced fire fighters and two of our veteran camp superintendents were Bill Mayhall, an old logger in his heyday, and Roy Seavey who was superintendent of the Wawona, Camp for a number of years.

The Civilian Conservation Corps was discontinued in July 1942 and left a fine record with the National Parks and conservation agencies.

Chapter XV

SIERRA CLUB OF CALIFORNIA

The Sierra Club was organized in 1892 and John Muir was its first president. The year of 1898 a building in the Valley was granted to the club by the State Commissioners and equipped as local headquarters. It was used as a public reading room and bureau of information.

Joseph Le Conte, who was a faculty member at the University of California in 1869 made his first trip to Yosemite in 1870. He devoted much time to Sierra studies and also the geology of the Yosemite region and has published results of this work. He died in the Valley in 1901. The Le Conte Memorial Lodge in Yosemite Valley built by the Sierra Club in 1903 commemorates his work.

In 1912 the club purchased the Soda Springs property in the Tuolumne Meadows which formerly was the homestead taken up by John B. Lembert in 1885. E. T. Parsons a prominent member of the Sierra Club was commemorated by the building of the Memorial Lodge on this property. This has been used ever since as headquarters and shelter during their summer outings. The first of the High Sierra Outings took place in 1901.

The Sierra Club has headquarters in San Francisco, California. They usually come to the Park every other summer for a long trip into the high country. Some years there would be as many as one hundred and fifty hikers on these trips. The food and camp gear would be packed by some reliable packer. Allie Robinson and Bruce Morgan handled the packing for a number of years.

These trips are organized and conducted by officers of the Sierra Club. Many members of the club take this method of seeing the Park as the expenses are reasonable and afford an opportunity for people to enjoy a pack trip.

I recall a very pleasant experience in July 1941. The Sierra Club was taking their Outing in the north end of the Park with 125 members. They camped each evening at designated camp sites, usually at one of the beautiful mountain lakes or streams. While the party camped at Tilden Lake, I was invited to join them. I remember particularly Richard Leonard was most hospitable and insisted that I be their guest for a day or two. I was on routine inspection of the trails so it was convenient for me to be with this interesting Outing. Tilden Lake is one of the most scenic alpine lakes in the Park and a camper’s paradise.

Francis Farquhar, an active member and official of the Sierra Club for many years, was married in the Le Conte Lodge December 21, 1934. Rangers had the pleasure of attending this wedding and reception in full uniform.

The Sierra Club Rock Climbing Section has functioned for a number of years and it has been very successful in advancing the techniques of rock climbing. Needless to say this sport takes practice and steady nerves. The club has assisted the rangers in many searches and rescues. They generously offer their assistance in all emergency cases.

Without a doubt the Sierra Club has contributed a great deal in helping to protect the policies of the National Parks.

Chapter XVI

CONCESSIONAIRE—HIKERS CAMPS—LODGES

In 1916, the Desmond Park Company installed Tuolumne Meadow Lodge and Tenaya Lake Lodge on the Tioga Road for car travelers. The Merced Lake Camp in Merced Canyon is 15 miles by trail from Yosemite Valley. Making one of the lodges your headquarters is a wonderful way to see the Park.

Superintendent W. B. Lewis in 1923 recommended the creation of a public service to the hiker to enjoy the scenic high country. Thomas E. Farrow general manager of the Yosemite Park Company made plans for a number of “Hikers Camps.” In the fall of 1923, Carl P. Russell was sent out by the Superintendent to locate campsites. A company packer went along to handle the stock. The sites recommended were Little Yosemite, Merced Lake, Boothe Lake, Lyell Fork and Glen Aulin. Simple accommodations such as a mess and cook tent, dormitory tents, for both men and women were suggested, and the cost to be one dollar for meals and one dollar for lodging. These camps and accommodations were installed in 1924.

Some changes were made later. Glen Aulin Camp was established in 1927 and in 1938 the Tenaya Lake Camp was moved to May Lake, one mile from the Tioga Road near Mount Hoffmann. The Boothe Lake Camp after several years of operation was abandoned because of poor location. A new camp replaced it and was named Vogelsang Camp.

These hikers’ camps simplified the problem of getting the hikers out into the high country without too much burdensome back packing. Food and lodging were furnished at the moderate cost of four dollars per day. Many hikers take advantage of this type accommodation. Through the years it has proven very successful and the Yosemite Park and Curry Company have indeed rendered a fine service to the hikers and fishermen.

The Ahwahnee Hotel was built in 1927 and the old buildings at Kenn[e]yville were torn down. In 1932 the Big Tree Lodge was built in the Mariposa Grove on a site near Sunset Point. The old make-shift structure surrounding the Montana tree was then removed.

The new Yosemite Lodge was finished and occupied in 1956. This lodge serves many thousands of visitors each year.

Many of the Old Landmarks have gone to make room for new modem buildings. The Old Village on the south side of the Valley which was known from the pioneer days, and where headquarters of the Park, store and Park company offices served for more than half a century has finally been tom. down. A new super store and restaurant built by the Yosemite Park and Curry Company, on the north side of the valley now serves the visitors’ and employees’ needs. The John Degnans who started a small camp store back in the 80’s served the early visitors fresh homemade bread and milk, as well as

Kenneyville, 1918. My first job in Yosemite started here.

Sentinel Hotel in the early days of horse stages.

home cooked meals. This old store has been replaced by a new super restaurant in the New Village not far from the Company store.

The famous Old Sentinel Hotel along with the River and Ivy Cottages which accommodated many visitors through long years of service was tom down in 1938. With increased visitor use each year, it is a problem to keep abreast of the needs for accommodations in the Valley.

The Badger Pass Ski House and facilities were built in 1935. The supervision of this area is under the Yosemite Park and Curry Company. Here food and ski equipment is provided and also power lifts for the convenience of the visitors. Weekends and holidays five to eight hundred cars will be in the parking area at Badger Pass.

The rangers serve this area by handling the parking problems and also the First Aid Station. It keeps five rangers busy all day to take care of the safety of the skier and Park visitor.

Chapter XVII

WAWONA DISTRICT AND PEOPLE

I was promoted to District Park Ranger and assigned to Wawona District June 22, 1937. Our quarters was the residence built for District Rangers a few years before. It was a comfortable house in a beautiful location and served as headquarters for the Wawona Ranger District. My duties as District Ranger were many. I had field work to do, as well as supervise all rangers, fire guards and do the book work of reports and records. The District Ranger supervises and directs fire suppression in his district. I was responsible too for the entrance station operation, the outpost station patrol in the high country and the apprehension of law violators. It was also my duty to fully cooperate with U.S. Forest Service and State agencies during fire emergencies. The protection of the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees was of great importance in my district.

In 1932 Wawona Basin, some 8,785 acres was taken into the Park and added to the Rangers’ problems. Section 35, a small village, was left in private ownership within the boundary of the Park and here new subdivisions and new modem homes and lodges were built. The maximum population in summer, including owners and renters, increased to one thousand. These people came under the protection of the Park Service Regulations.

One of the oldest members of a pioneer family, Mrs. Hattie Bruce Harris, still lives in Wawona on the old homestead. A great deal has been written covering the early history of her family. I had the privilege of knowing Albert, Jay, William, Jennette and Hattie who were of real pioneer stock and knew from experience the hard knocks of life. They were always willing to give a helping hand to anyone in need and would go out of their way to help a neighbor in trouble. They held many important positions in Yosemite. First with the Washburns in the hotel business, then the Park and other community affairs. I became acquainted with the family in 1921 during the early days of my ranger duties in the Big Trees.

Bert, as he was called by his friends, was the photographer in the Big Trees for many years. Jay became the State Lion Hunter, and made a record for himself tracking down and killing two hundred lions in the Sierra Region. He is the author of the book, “Cougar Killer.” William, a carpenter by trade, built many houses around Wawona. Jennette lived in San Francisco much of the time. Hattie, now Mrs. Sam Harris, took a prominent part in the community life in Wawona. Most of her earlier life was spent in San Francisco as a telegraph operator. After her retirement she returned to her first home in Wawona.

Another old time Wawona resident was Frank B. Marks, Sr. He was born in San Francisco, California, January 31, 1870. His father came from Gulde M of Yosemite National Park

A Dude Party camping in Hetch Hetchy, 1918

Poland about 1833 and settled in New Bedford, Mass., then in 1852 went to San Francisco and bought land at what was known as Cow Hollow.

Frank married Fannie T. Olmstead, and they had four children; two boys and two girls. They lived in Merced and Fresno Counties where they had a dairy and raised alfalfa. In 1893 he moved to Dos Palos. At that time the family owned most of the town. Later he moved to Newman, California, where he went into rock, sand, and gravel production, and in 1931 into road construction with contracts in California and Nevada. In 1939 he contracted with Yosemite National Park to pave the Wawona Road and the Big Oak Flat Road which was finished in 1940.

His first camping trip to Yosemite Valley was in 1881, with his mother, brother and party. They drove a team of horses with a freight wagon. There were very few people in the Valley at that time. In 1913 he came on another camping trip to the Valley. The U. S. Troops patrolled the Park at that time. In 1922 he made his first park trip to Waterwheel Falls. The horses were rented horses at Tuolumne Meadows. At Return Creek the horse wrangler told him the fence was safe to hold stock but during the night the horses and mules worked out and disappeared. It was a job to find them. However all but two mules were found. These two showed up three weeks later on the Sunrise Trail. Mr. Marks said he was presented with a bill from the horse wrangler for one hundred and four dollars for the lost time on these two mules. Frank spends part of the summer in his private home in Wawona. He bought this property in 1924 from the Quig family and built a fine home.

Another old timer is Fred M. Terry a long time property owner in Wawona. Fred was born November 17, 1886 in London, England. For many years he was Chief Engineer for Hotel Fairmont and Whitcomb Hotels in San Francisco. His wife, Paula, was a native of Bavaria. Terry first came to Wawano in 1917, via the Cannon Ball Stage over Chowchilla Mountain.

Wawona Hotel

He was met at Wawona Hotel by a boy who had a burro and took Terry’s luggage and camp equipment up to the Bruce homestead. He bought private land from Will Bruce, and in 1927 built a very comfortable home which he lived in for many years.

The Seventh Day Adventist Camp in Wawona has been a real asset to the community and continues to bring many children in for field school and training in outdoor camp life. They are always well cared for and supervised.

The Walter Baker and Harold May families have been property owners some thirty years and furnished lodging to the Park visitors which was needed during the peak travel season.

The summer season usually brings many of the old families back to the Wawona Hotel. Some of these, first came in the Washburn regime and returned each summer for their vacations. The Wawona Hotel has always been noted for its quiet relaxing atmosphere.

One of the first hotel managers we had the pleasure of knowing was Clarence Washburn, son of the original Washburn family who came to Wawona in 1875. Clarence Washburn was a most hospitable host and had the best interest of Wawona at heart. His father John, with two brothers, Henry and Edward, came to California from Vermont in 1865 and settled in Mariposa County. They ran a store in Bridgeport near Mariposa for a while until the Washburns bought the private property from Galen Clark and Moore on January 6, 1875 and built the Wawona Hotel in 1878. The old original building burned down in the fall of 1883. The present Wawona Hotel was built in 1884.

Henry Washburn did much to keep Wawona and the Mariposa County mountain area self supporting in the early era. He was highly respected by everyone who knew him, and Wawona is truly a monument to Henry Washburn.

Clarence told me that the Golf Course and Air Port were completed in 1917. It was the first mountain golf course in the State. The Air Port was used by a commercial pilot Frank Gallison who operated a sight seeing service over the area for a few years. Don Tresidder, president of the park company used the field for his plane. In 1932 the Park bought this private property from Washburns and therefore discontinued this service as park laws did not permit planes to operate on government land.

The Yosemite Park and Curry Company took over the operation of the Wawona Hotel. Clarence Washburn stayed on as manager until fall of 1934. He then moved to Indio, California, where he operated the Potter Hotel and now calls Indio his home. He was Mayor of that city for a number of years. Don and Mary Tresidder came to the Wawona Hotel and loved its quiet atmosphere. Don’s sister, Olene Mentzer, was manager of the hotel for a while and was a most gracious hostess. Lou Foster, a true lover of nature, was also manager for a number of years. Lou comes from an old pioneer family near Cloverdale, California.

Eddie Gordon, manager of the horse concession for many years, has made Wawona his home since 1902 when he first worked as rider and drove stage and freight team in and out of Wawona. He was a packer and guide for the Washburns and the Yosemite Park and Curry Company continuously up to the present time, except three years when he drove team for the Park. Ed’s father, Tom Gordon, was a well known horse stage driver for the Washburn family starting in the 1870’s.

The high country in the southern part of the Park is patrolled by a ranger stationed at Buck Camp. This camp was used in the early days by the U.S. Troops, who maintained an outpost for patrolling the Park. This is a convenient place for rangers and their stock for there is a good log cabin, a pasture and a cold spring of water. The location is within close riding distance to Chiquito Pass which is the southern most pass in the Park. Fernandez Pass and Red Peak Pass are also in the Buck Camp rangers district. Adjacent to these passes, cattle graze in summer and occasionally they will break through the drift fances and get into the Park meadows.

Hunting season always brings many hunters to the area bordering the Park. In past years this area has produced many fine deer.

I made a practice to contact the packers in the Basore Meadow area along in the fall. Johnny Jones held a special use permit, as did Tom Jones. They often packed parties to the Park for fishing and camping. Fred Wass at Fish Camp also held a permit to enter the Park under such a contract.

The rangers at South Entrance are kept very busy with the increase of

Ranger Bingaman escorting a party of special visitors
through the Big Trees, 1921

travel from June 15th to the end of August. Two incoming lanes are worked in order to keep traffic moving through the Station.

The heavy noon day traffic in the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees has also increased and the Upper Loop is almost a solid line of cars during the middle of a summer day. The Wawona Tunnel Tree is the most photographed Tree in all the country. There has been much discussion about the road with all the thousands of cars passing through this Tree each year and whether this should be permitted to continue. My observation and reaction to this is, that a road should be built around the Tree.

As a tribute to the many pioneers that lived and contributed to the Wawona area and other parts of Yosemite the Park Service is establishing in Wawona, “The Historical Pioneer Center,” wherein some of the old landmarks have been rebuilt and created so that park visitors will be able to see and learn from a living museum of by gone days what took place in the Yosemite nearly a century ago.

Chapter XVIII

MATHER RANGER DISTRICT AND HETCH HETCHY

On March 1, 1922, the Chief Ranger said, “John, you and Martha will be going over to Hog Ranch Ranger Station to make reports on the construction of the Hetch Hetchy Dam.” The Station was called Hog Ranch in the early days. Some years later it was re-named Mather. The Station and Hetch Hetchy are in the northwest part of the Park. At that time four hundred men were working on the dam.

Due to heavy snow we had to make a roundabout trip. We rode our saddle horses down the Merced Canyon along the railroad track to Jenkins Hill, then climbed the mountain to Bower’s Cave Hotel where we stayed that night. It was a ride of thirty-eight miles. Mr. and Mrs. Wenger, the owners, welcomed us for dinner and fed our saddle horses.

During the night a mountain lion got into the corral and killed a burro. Mr. Wenger heard the noise and when he went to the corral at dawn he found that the lion had devoured part of the burro. The lion fled leaving tracks on the road near the barn.

The next day we rode on via Buck Meadows and on up the Old Mather Road. There was snow on the road to Mather Saw Mill so we rode along the railroad track for about five miles and arrived at City Saw Mill Camp about 5 p.m., tired and hungry. The cook said supper was ready and for us to come in and eat. The supper was a regular logger’s meal and we did full justice to it. After the hearty meal we rode on to Hog Ranch Ranger Station, one mile up the road, along the railroad track. We had shipped our bed rolls and food supply by the railroad and the Camp Boss said they would throw our camp gear off when the supply train went by our door in about an hour.

We arrived at the Station just before dark, put up our horses in the barn and gave them a good feed which they had well earned. We built a fire in the cook range and the drum heater in the front room and soon we were very comfortable. Beds and food arrived on the supply train as scheduled. The work train supplied the material to the Hetch Hetchy Dam project.

Some days we would ride our horses down to Hetch Hetchy and other times we’d ride the supply train. We became acquainted with the superintendent and boss of the construction camp. Mr. Rankin, Mr. Harry Lloyd and Mr. Judson the time keeper were very helpful to us. It was the duty of the ranger to make inspection of the camp and make regular reports on progress and conditions in general.

The Raker Act passed by Congress was signed by President Woodrow Wilson, December 19, 1913, and it gave the City and County of San Francisco rights to store water in the Hetch Hetchy Valley and Lake Eleanor in Yosemite National Park. In 1914 the construction of Mather Hetch Hetchy Road was started. In 1915 the camp and reservoir site were established and in 1916 construction of the Hetch Hetchy railroad was put through. The following year construction on the Lake Eleanor Road was completed and the railroad started operating. Actual construction on the dam started in 1919 and was completed May 1, 1923. The Dam was raised an additional 85 feet during the years 1935-1938.

The Lake Eleanor Dam was built in 1917 and 1918. This is a buttressed arch dam and the original natural lake level was raised 35 feet. The height of the dam is 70 feet and is 1,260 feet long.

In 1915, a saw mill was established in Canyon Ranch, four and a half miles from Hetch Hetchy in Yosemite National Park, to supply lumber for the construction project. Six million board feet of lumber were cut and the timber supply was exhausted so the mill was moved in 1919 to Hog Ranch. There the mill operation was continued until 1924.

Park Superintendent Lewis felt it very important to keep a ranger in the area while the project was going on. The assignment for the rangers was usually one month but my assignment was for two months before we were called back to headquarters.

The story on the origin and early history of Hetch Hetchy was told to me by an early pioneer, Celia Crocker Thompson. For many years her father and mother owned and operated the Crockers Station on the Big Oak Flat Road near the west boundary of Yosemite. This was a very well known Stage Coach Station and stopping place for the early travelers going to the Park. Celia spent many years there with her parents and knew the area and many of the pioneer families that lived there. Celia told us many stories of the history of early days around Hetch Hetchy and Yosemite.

The Hetch Hetchy Valley was discovered by Joseph Screech in 1850. Here are some exerpts from a letter by Screech. “One day when I was hunting deer and bear in the High Sierras I saw about five miles ahead of me a very high mountain and as I had lots of time I spent the afternoon climbing to the top. At the top I had a wonderful view of the surrounding country. I could see the passage way of the Tuolumne River from the San Joaquin plains to the Sierra Nevadas and the deep cuts through which the river flowed. I was surprised to see a wide cut in the mountains that looked like it might be a deep wide valley although I could not see the bottom land of the river from where I was on the peak. On getting home, I asked the Indian Chief the name of the valley and he told me there is no valley there is only a cut in the hills through which the Tuolumne River flows but if I thought there might be a valley to keep looking and if I found such a place he’d give it to me. The Old Chief claimed all the country in that area.”

“After hunting a couple of years I finally found the valley and entered it from the lower end. Later I walked up to the Old Indian Chief and his wives and told him of my discovery of Hetch Hetchy Valley. He was surprised and told his wives to pack up as they were leaving. He went on to tell them that he’d promised Screech the valley if he found it. Then turning to me said, I am keeping my promise to you, the valley is yours.” In 1870 John Muir made his first trip to Hetch Hetchy. He was alone

Hetch Hetchy Valley, 1913, before dam was built. Looking back towards
Rancheria and Le Conte Point. Kolana Rock at right.

Hetch Hetchy reservoir, 1924, after Dam was built.

and traveled on foot from Yosemite Valley to the Hetch Hetchy. His route took him through virgin forests and from canyon to canyon following game trails and finally down into the valley. At that time a sheep herder and a few Digger Indians inhabited the valley.

Hetch Hetchy Valley remained primitive until the early 1900’s when the City of San Francisco started negotiations for the water right. After much debate, hearings and petitions, the Raker Act was signed by President Wilson.

The first inspection trip by the Board of Supervisors with a party of twenty-five made a trip into Hetch Hetchy on August 19, 1908. They traveled via Yosemite Valley Stage Coach to Crockers Station where they spent the first night, and the next day went on to Hog Ranch which was the end of the road. From there, on mules and horses, they made their way down to Hetch Hetchy and established a camp. Several days were spent riding around the valley exploring for the future dam site.

They met Elmer E. Smith owner of some thirteen or fourteen hundred acres of private land. He told the supervisors he was ready to sell for one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. Next day the party rode on to Lake Eleanor, about twelve miles, where they met Wm. Ham Hall, who owned some six hundred acres around the lake. Cabins were available there and the party enjoyed a trout dinner that evening. Efforts were made to buy Hall’s holdings. They made no field contacts in connection with their plan to acquire land owned by the National Park. Two weeks were spent making the trip and they returned by the same route to the Valley.

Miguel Meadows got its name from one of the owners of the “Rush and McGill” ranch near the town of Keystone in Tuolumne County. There were two partners, Jonas Rush and Miguel Efferra. They drove their flocks and herds to the mountains each summer for pasture and in this case it was in the region called Miguel Meadows where they settled. People who knew Miguel Errerra over fifty years knew him by no other name than McGill and the ranch and stock as Rush and McGill but Miguel Errera was his true name.

It was said that he was separated from his mother when he was a young boy in San Francisco. In his wanderings he joined up with Jonas Rush and the partnership lasted for over half a century. They died within a few years of each other and are buried side by side at Knights Ferry. Miguel Meadows, a large grassy meadow, is situated about eight miles from Hetch Hetchy on the old Lake Eleanor Road. It is now used by the Park Service for a patrol station.

The origin of the name Hog Ranch was not derived from a man named Haug nor of early settlers raising hogs there although that did follow some years later. In the early eighties a sheepman pastured his flocks there, and during the shearing and marking season an artistic herder, having some red paint, painted a picture on a smooth boulder of an animal, but failed to write under it “this is a sheep.” When his fellow herder came into camp he said, “I painted it for a sheep but it looks more like a hog.” So the early settlers got to calling the area Hog Ranch. In October 1919, the place was named “Mather” for Stephen T. Mather, Director of the National Park Service at that time.

Near the end of April I completed my routine reports and my orders were to return to headquarters. Heavy snow drifts on the Crane Flat summit prevented us from going the shortest way, so it was necessary to take the long way home.

Years later, matter of fact it was October 18, 1940, we returned to Mather Ranger Station on another assignment. This time we were to remain through the winter and make it a year round station. It was necessary to lay in a winter supply of food and supplies for the storms would soon set in and close the roads. We shopped all day and almost bought out the store. Food had to be stored carefully to keep it away from mice. There was a small refrigerator to store a few perishables for there were no deep freezes in those days.

By Christmas Eve we were snowed in under a foot of heavy wet snow. Our telephone line to headquarters went out and stayed out, but the Hetch Hetchy phone line stayed in most of the winter so we were in touch with Mr. James Gray, who was the City Dam tender, and his wife. We were also able to contact the officials at Mocassin Power House. They called and notified us that as soon as the storm let up they would be up with their V snow plow to open the road to the Dam. They were very thoughtful and asked if we needed anything.

The storm abated Christmas Day and the next morning the City Crew plowed our road so we could get out. The City had two employees and families living at Hetch Hetchy and one employee family at Lake Eleanor. At the Mather City Recreation Camp, one mile from Ranger Station, was a caretaker, Mr. Wm. Gray, an old veteran City employee who had been there many years. Mr. and Mrs. Shaw, who operated the city sawmill for years also lived at Mather Camp.

At the Evergreen Lodge, owned and managed by the Raveros, some member of the family usually looked after the buildings in winter. During the summer this was a busy resort with meals, lodging, store, gas station and post office open. A few years later the Jack Garrisons took over the resort. Joe Barnes and family, who live near Oakdale, California, operated a saddle and pack station at Mather for many years. Joe was well known as a packer for he handled many pack trips in his days in and out of Mather Station. He was always ready to lend a hand when a fellow was in need. The City of San Francisco maintains a large recreation camp at Mather and each summer many families enjoy the activities and relaxation at this fine camp.

The winter passed pleasantly. Spring and summer came before we knew it. The Chief Ranger sent seasonal rangers to man the Entrance Station, the Patrol Cabin at Hetch Hetchy and the Outpost at Miguel Meadows. A Fire Guard was assigned to this Station during the summer as the area was considered a high fire hazard. The Park records show that many forest fires were started and had to be fought in this area.

The Mather District had many miles of horse trails and the back country was a real wilderness of deep rugged canyons, timbered valleys, lakes and streams. A true paradise for the campers and fishermen.

The district ranger had to see that the trails were maintained and if a regular trail crew wasn’t working in the area the rangers worked alone clearing the trails. I made many trips over the district clearing trails, maintaining pasture fences, repairing trail junction signs and replacing old worn out signs. I found many red-wood trail signs mutilated by bears. In some areas signs had to be replaced several times for it seems the bears took a special delight in leaving their marks on trail signs.

I encountered many bears and rattlesnakes. Especially in Pate Valley, Rancheria Mt. and the Tiltill Valley section. This area has always been known as a rattlesnake country. The bears came there because there were plenty of fish and berries.

You will note from time to time we have changed assignments from one ranger station to another. It is the park policy for the rangers to get acquainted with the various problems of all the districts.

Chapter XIX

TUOLUMNE MEADOW DISTRICT RANGER STATION

Tuolumne Meadow District Ranger Station is situated seven miles west of Tioga Pass on the Tioga Road at an elevation of 8,700 feet. It is in a large open alpine meadow surrounded by mountain peaks that rise up to 13,050 feet. It serves as headquarters for the district ranger in charge and in the last decade ten seasonal rangers have been assigned there to assist with ranger duties. Ranger naturalists are also headquartered there in summer. Nearby a large campground is maintained with space for two thousand campers. A store and gas station is open from the middle of June to the middle of September.

This is a most unique area of the Park. Trails take you into a vast wilderness with stands of lodge pole pine and hemlock. Wild flowers thrive and carpet the meadows during July and August.

I enjoyed ranger duties here for ten summers. To me it was an unusual and rewarding experience.

Many hikers take off into the high country from this vantage point. Some back pack, some use burros to pack their camp gear and food and some ride horses. Sight-seeing and fishing are the main reasons for these trips. It is the real way to see nature in the rough with time to pause and wonder at God’s great creation.

The Tioga Pass Entrance Station elevation is 9,941 feet. This is under the supervision of the district ranger. Seasonal Ranger Castillo has been in charge of the Station for five summers. It opens Memorial Day and closes with the first heavy snow storm.

Little has been said about the Needleminer which infects and destroys a large area of the lodge pole pine forest every so often. The Needleminer has caused much concern for the protection of the forests in the high country from Tenaya Lake, Tuolumne Meadow, Cathedral Basin and the Virginia Canyon areas.

Yosemite reports have records on the epidemic of the Needleminer as early as 1904. That year a Major John Bigelow mentions a dead forest in Kerrick Canyon, one-half mile wide and two to three miles in length.

J. M. Miller, Entomologist, reported in 1911-1912 a moth flight was noticed and in 1913 needles dropped from the trees causing a severe defoliation and the area along the Tioga Road became known as the dead forest. In 1915 J. J. Sullivan carried on extensive study, and on the basis of these reports a control plan was carried through. The Park Service has spent a great deal of money in order to control this disease on the Lodge Pole Pine since the first reports and study were made.

In 1945 another epidemic started and the cycle reached the adult stage in 1955. Again the Park Service made extensive study and control by spraying insecticide, using helicoptors to cover the infested area. It is hoped that this method of control will stop the spread of the disease. Two chemicals, malathio and endrin, have been used and the summer of 1961 will tell the story of the success or failure of these chemicals.

Guardians of the Yosemite (1961) by John W. Bingaman

Chapter XX

YOSEMITE INDIANS

My first visit to the Yosemite Indian Village was in 1918. Some of the Yosemite Tribe were still living in their native huts and bark shelters.

Before the coming of the white man the Ahwahneeches occupied the area known as the deep grassy valley. Chief Tenaya and his tribesmen chose Yosemite and were known as the “Yosemites.” There were two divisions of the tribe; one known as the Coyote side and the other the Grizzly Bear side. The Valley itself remained Ahwahnee to the Indians.

[Editor’s note: the correct meaning of Ahwahnee is “(gaping) mouth.” See “Origin of the Place Name Yosemite”—dea.]

When the gold rush of 1849 started the white settlers and miners crowded into the hills and came closer and closer to the Indian’s tribal land. While some foothill Indians made treaties with whites many others resented the encroachment of the white men. In trying to discourage the whites from entering their domain a number of outrages occurred and the Yosemites were charged with instigating these raids and killings.

March 1851, the Mariposa battalion was formed under authority of the State of California to quell the Indian outrages. Major James D. Savage was commissioned to lead the battalion and subdue the Indians who had recently killed three white men. Two expeditions were sent out; one in March and the other in May of 1851. A number of Indians were captured and a few killed. Chief Tenaya was captured and along with his people was moved to the Fresno River Indian Reservation. The Chief was very unhappy under restraint and after some appeals the Indian Commissioners permitted him and his followers to return to Yosemite under a promise that he would make no more trouble. A few years later a party of prospectors entered the Valley with no idea there would be trouble. They were attacked and two of the party were killed. The others barely escaped. A detachment of the Army was sent into the Valley from Fort Miller to punish the Indians. Five Indians were captured and shot by Army orders. Chief Tenaya escaped across the mountains to Mono Lake. In 1853 the old chief decided to return to Yosemite with a small group of Indians. They stole a number of horses from the Monos. Tenaya’s band was pursued and surprised at Tenaya Lake. One Mono threw a rock which hit and killed Chief Tenaya and from then on there was very little trouble from the Tenayas.

Among the old Indians that I knew was Maria Lebrado, the last living survivor of the Tenayas people. Other Indians who made their home in the Valley were (Ta bu ce) Maggie Howard, Chief Lee-mee Chris Brown, who performed native dances and rituals. Pete Hilliard, born in El Capitan Meadow 1870, worked for the Park many years as a teamster. Lloyd Parker, Fremont James, Harry Johnson, Alvin Rhoan, John Brown, Virgil Brown, John Leonard, Bill Wilson, Francis Georgly, Louis Austin and Charlie Dick were all descendants of Valley Indians although they had taken white men’s names.

At the old Indian village about 1905, Yosemite Valley. Bridgeport Tom,
Maimie, Leona, baby Agnes (Castro), Ida and Lillian.

Sally Ann, daughter of Charlie Dick, a beautiful Indian Girl, married a miner by the name of Stegman. They lived in San Francisco for some time. Then Sally Ann ran away and returned to Yosemite Village. She later married an Indian, John Brown, but was always running away. Johnny said he had to beat her to make her stay home. Her last husband was

Indian Field Days, 1920, Yosemite Valley.

Johnny Castagnetto who ran a pack train bringing fruit and vegetables to the Valley. Sally Ann died in the Valley and is buried in the Yosemite Cemetery.

Lucy Tellis, made the largest basket ever made in Yosemite. It is on display in the Yosemite Museum.

Phoebe Wilson Lovine Hogan born 1886 near Merced Falls, whose father was Frank “Hooky” Wilson, born in 1840 in Bear Valley. Phoebe worked in the Valley laundry for years. She was a guiding influence for her people. Her brother, Westley Wilson has worked for the Park for years.

Dan Howard, married Ta bu ce who changed her name to Maggie Howard. Dan also worked for Park Service as laborer and wood cutter.

Stanley Castro worked for Park Service beginning as a laborer of the road maintenance crew in 1917. He married Agnes Tom in 1921 and worked his way up to become foreman of Road Maintenance.

Bridgeport Tom, a Piute Indian born near Bridgeport, California in 1860, had two wives; Louisa and Leanna who were sisters. Between them they had ten children. Four of them became permanent residents in Yosemite Village by marriage to local Indians.

Tom was not a medicine man but it was claimed he could heal through the spirit. It was stated he made the remark that the Giant Yellow Pine in the Valley would have some connection with his death and that he would die when the tree died. This properly came true. Tom had many friends among both Indians and Whites. When a young man he was a rider for a large cattle ranch near Bridgeport, California. He was industrious, bought land and cattle, raised grain and potatoes, and also raised fine horses to sell or trade. His first home ranch was near Walker Lake, in the Bloody Canyon not far from Mono Lake. The family would usually travel across the mountains to Yosemite Valley in the summer and return to their ranch on the Mono side for the winter. They had plenty to eat, which wasn’t so with some of the Indians. Tom raised wheat and took it to Bishop to get it ground into flour. When he killed a beef he would supply meat to the needy Indian neighbors.

When the Los Angeles Water Aqueduct took over all the land and water rights in that area Tom was forced to sell out. He then moved to Coleville where he bought land and made his home there until his death in 1938.

January 14, 1956 Louisa Tom, died at Indian Village, at the age of 92 and was buried in Yosemite Cemetery.

Most of the old Indians have gone. We had made friends with many of them through the years and missed them as one by one they passed on to the “happy hunting ground.” Mixed bloods through intermarriage with other tribes and races still live in the Park but mostly in houses similar to those of the other Park employees.

Only a few direct descendants remain in the Valley where once lived a powerful tribe, “The Ahwahneeches,” who lived in the “Deep Grassy Valley,” Yosemite.

Chapter XXI

WHEN RETIREMENT COMES

Soon after Labor Day 1956, we planned our leave of absence. Having reached retirement age, I had applied for it through routine channels. The previous winter Martha and I had several severe attacks of flu which left its effects on us. Considering the long years of service we had spent in the Park, through all kinds of weather and conditions, we thought it best to take our retirement while we were still able to enjoy life. Thirty-four and a half years as a Park Ranger and a total thirty-eight years living in the Park. It had been a wonderful life, with many interesting experiences. We had made many friends and contacts with people from all over the world. If I were a young fellow and the clock could be turned back I would want to do it all over. I feel that we have given much of our lives and contributed our full share to the protection and furtherance of Yosemite National Park.

Thirty-four and a half years in Yosemite is a long time for a ranger to serve in any one Park and may well establish a record.

The National Park Service is now placing in effect the lateral transfer policy for all personnel. This gives the rangers more opportunities for advancement. Now after three years in any park or area a ranger will be eligible for transfer. This gives a broader concept and advantage for promotion and it makes room for others to step into higher positions. However, the service should hold back some experienced men to take charge and train the younger men. I feel that a promotion policy is a good thing for the service. As the old saying goes, “If you don’t keep going forward you soon slip backward.”

I would like to see the Park Service introduce a “Pre-Retirement Plan,” for its employees. Such a program would prepare them for the time when they retire. It should include consultation on matters as hospital, health and medical problems, insurance retirement benefits, investments, where to live and recreational pursuits. The Veterans Administration has started such a program. When an employee comes within a couple of years of being eligible for retirement he can attend pre-retirement sessions. There are six, two-hour sessions. Counsel is given on many important matters that would assist the retiree to adjust his way of living after retirement.

The rangers in the next decade will benefit a great deal from such a policy. The Ranger Training School will also give many opportunities to advance in the service. Unfortunately the old rangers did not have this opportunity. It certainly is a step forward to raise the standard and the salary of the park personnel.

The salaries of the “First Rangers” were $50.00 per month. In the early 1920’s it was raised to $1200 per anum, then $1440, then $1620. There were small increases up to the 1940’s. When we received $2100 per year that was considered big pay. It was not until after World War II that the salaries increased and then again in the 1950’s. If the old rangers looked to the money they took home I am sure most of them would have worked at something more remunerative. It was the love of the great outdoors, the living with nature, the exciting experiences of ranger life which attracted a particular type of man to the service. Today there is a vast difference in what the rangers have over the “First Old Rangers.” Today it is a modern career. It is unfortunate that the old rangers did not receive more benefits including medical coverage and annuity along with the up grading of employees.

I look back upon my experiences with feeling such as a great artist’s reaction after finishing his masterpiece. To me there will always remain an imprint like that of a beautiful picture.

A NEW ERA THE NEW YOSEMITE

We hear people say, “The Valley is spoiled, it is too crowded, too many modern buildings.” True, some may well complain about the heavy concentration of visitors and campers but by their own will they come back year after year in the crowded camps. So they are not really complaining about Yosemite itself but the fact there are too many people.

From my observation of over thirty-eight years I see very little damage to the Yosemite Valley. The trees look just as healthy; in fact there are many more of them, the waterfalls are just the same and the beautiful scenery has not changed. The Valley in all its grandeur and majesty remains.

Many of the old land marks have vanished and have been replaced to keep up with modem expansion. With the increase of visitors each year the Park Service has to expand and still strive to maintain the National Parks in their original idea of preservation. Lack of facilities is always a problem. Modem roads leading into the Parks makes them accessible to more people, and in another ten years super highways will lead directly into our National Parks. More camp grounds, trailer parks and rest rooms will be definitely needed.

Many changes have taken place from the pioneer to the modem era and the Park Service, I am sure, will continue to provide the services to accommodate the ever increasing number of Park visitors.

Chapter XXII

PART II—HISTORY OF “THE FIRST RANGERS”

The great western migration of gold seekers, land settlers and pioneers began in 1849 and carried through the 1850’s. The ranger organization of that period was a law enforcement agency protecting the new arrivals in the west against Indians and law violators. In the 1890’s rangers were assigned to our National Parks and Forests to protect them and the people who visited these areas.

Yosemite was created a National Park on October 1, 1890. Each year between 1891 and 1913, the War Department sent troops of cavalry into Yosemite National Park on patrol duty. Sequoia and Yellowstone Parks also received military protection.

The Army Officer in charge acted as the Superintendent of the Park. The troops would arrive in May and leave about October, returning to the Presidio of San Francisco. Captain A. E. Wood was in Command of the first Troops assigned to Yosemite. Captain Wood, in command of two Troops of Cavalry, Companies I and K arrived in Yosemite May 19, 1891, and set up camp at Wawona.

During the Spanish American War in 1898 the U.S. Troops assigned to Yosemite were recalled to the Presidio. The protection of the Parks, until the Troops could again assume their duties, was assigned to the General Land Office of the U.S. Department of the Interior. A Special Land Inspector was made Acting Superintendent of three Parks. He employed assistant forest agents during the summer to eject sheep trespass and fight forest fires. The General Land Office therefore became involved in the early administration of both the National Parks and the Forest Reserves in California.

By June 25, 1898, Special Inspector J. W. Zevely of the General Land Office had hired eleven men from the Yosemite region and these men were assigned to two special agents. Special Agent A. W. Buick was in charge of five men: The men were, Archie C. Leonard, George R. Byde, Henry A. Skelton, Charles A. Leidig, Arthur L. Thurman, and they took over the northern part of Yosemite. Special Agent Cullom was given six men: George G. MacKenzie, Thomas S. Carter, David Lackton, Darwin S. Lewis, Joel J. Westfall, Joseph R. Borden, and this group were assigned to the southern part of Yosemite.

Both groups were well armed and mounted and they were constantly in the field expelling sheep trespass, fighting forest fires and arresting all those with fire arms. During the period from June 25th until September lst they reported they had expelled from the Park 189,000 head of sheep, 350 head of horses, 1,000 head of cattle, and confiscated 27 fire arms. These men made up the first civilian protection force for the Yosemite National Park.

“The First Rangers”—1914-1915-1916

The U.S. Troops returned to the Park on August 25, 1898, and the Forest Agents were relieved of their duties.

In September 1898 the Acting Superintendent received authorization to appoint Forest Rangers at fifty dollars a month for temporary service. These men were to assist the Troops on their patrols. Two of the forest agents, Archie Leonard and Charles Le[i]dig were hired that September. In the late fall when the Troops were preparing to leave Yosemite it was recommended that the two forest agents be kept on for the winter to protect the Park. This was authorized and they remained on as rangers for many years.

The Army reports to the Secretary of the Interior referred to these rangers as “Park Rangers.” This was probably the first usage of the “Park Ranger Title.” The forest rangers in California National Parks, officially became park rangers in 1905. The forest reserves were taken out of the Department of the Interior and placed under the Department of Agriculture. The General Land Office no longer had forest reserve appropriations to spend on the National Parks. Money was appropriated expressly for National Park protection in July 1905, and the men in the protection organization, were there-after referred to as “Park Rangers.”

In 1914, civilian employees of the Department of the Interior replaced the Military in administration and protection of Yosemite National Park. Mark Daniels became the first Superintendent. The Ranger Force consisted of five permanent rangers and ten temporary rangers to take the place of two hundred soldiers, who had patrolled the Park for twenty-two summers.

Automobiles were officially admitted to the Park on August 23, 1913 and in 1915 Yosemite horse drawn stages were replaced by motor stages.

The National Park Service was created August 25, 1916 with Stephen T. Mather as the first Director. This brought about many changes. Improvements and expansion of facilities were made to take care of the big influx of visitors each year. W. B. Lewis was appointed superintendent and E. P. Leavitt was made assistant superintendent. The responsibilities of administration increased each year.

The following pages of information and short biographies of the “First Yosemite Rangers” is in appreciation of those men who dedicated their lives to the service in protection of the Yosemite National Park. The rangers’ lives were rough and hard because of the multiple duties and lack of adequate equipment. There were no eight hour days or forty hour weeks. They worked from morning until night and there were no days off . It took tough men to do the job, men of sterling character, distinctive personality, a love of the outdoors and a loyalty to the Service. It is hard to fully realize what the early rangers went through, for the “horse stage era” is gone.

The “First Rangers” accomplished an unbelievable amount of work with little or no help. They spent many long days in the saddle patrolling, checking for violations, trespassers and fighting forest fires alone. They slept in the open with little or no shelter, lived on short rations, and without telephones or radio facilities. It was their indomitable spirit and love of the work which made the Parks what they are today. Their wives and families also deserve full credit for what they, too, went through waiting for their ranger husbands to return safely.

I hesitate to say it but feel strongly that most all “Old Rangers” received little thanks and consideration for the loyal and conscientious service they gave. I only wish that these rangers might have received more benefits and recompense for their long hard years of service. The following “First Old Rangers” of Yosemite National Park served during the first decade of Civilian Protection.

Andrew J. Gaylar

Jack, as he was known to most people, was born in Texas, January 7, 1856. He became ad army packer for the U. S. Cavalry in his youth and was with Colonel Tory’s Rough Riders in Wyoming and the 7th Cavalry at Huntsville, Alabama. He served in Cuba with the 7th Cavalry, then to Manila, P.I., and was promoted while in the Island under General Funston to Chief Pack Master. When he returned to the United States he was stationed with the Pack Train at the Presidio in San Francisco. In 1905 he was ordered to Yosemite National Park, with two troops of the 4th Cavalry and packed their supplies to the various posts that summer. Then in the fall he returned to San Francisco with the troops. The following summer he was back again to Yosemite Park in charge of pack train. He also helped Major H. D. Benson plant many trout that season and in the fall he returned with the troops to the Presidio. Later he returned to Yosemite and worked for the Department of the Interior. The summer of 1907 he had charge of the Government pack train, helped to fight forest fires, and worked under Major Benson planting trout in the high lake region. On September 9, 1907, he received an appointment as park ranger in Yosemite

Ranger Andrew Jack Gayler—1907-1921

National Park from the Department of the Interior and remained a ranger until his death in 1921.

In 1916 he became Assistant Chief Ranger under Chief Ranger Forest Townsley. At that time there were seven permanent rangers and nineteen temporary rangers.

Jack was 51 years old when he became a ranger. In the spring of 1921 he contracted flu which left him in a weakened condition. He died of a heart ailment at Merced Lake Ranger Station the night of April 19, 1921 while sitting before his campfire. He was on a high mountain patrol and died with his boots on just as he would have wanted it. Andy Swartz a young bookkeeper for the Park Service was with him when he died. His last ride was down his favorite trail, across his saddle horse with both ends tied down. He was buried in Merced, California, April 22, 1921.

I remember him very well, patrolling the trails, always on the watch for law violators and forest fires. He always carried a 45 Colt revolver, and a Winchester Carbine and rode a fine mule for many years. Jack truly was an outstanding person and a real credit to the service. The Gaylers lived in the George Fiske house across from the foot of the Four Mile Trail, on the bend of the Merced River in 1918 when we first came to Yosemite. From reports Mrs. Gaylar returned to her home in Georgia after her husband’s death. Not many years later she too passed on.

Archie C. Leonard

Archie was born in West Virginia in 1846. From reports of his family the following is related of his career in Yosemite: Archie came across the Plains during the latter part of the gold rush period. He worked around Jamestown, California, as a miner for a few years after reaching the Mother Lode Country. In the 1880’s he came to Yosemite and worked a while for the Washburns in Wawona as a ranch foreman. On June 25, 1898, he was one of the local men appointed as Assistant Special Forest Agent, and assigned to patrol the southern part of the Park. Archie was one of the two men who made up the first civilian protection force for the Yosemite National Park.

Archie lived at that time in Wawona. When the U. S. Troops came in to take over the protection of the Park, he was assigned as scout and guide for the Troops during the summer months. He reported to the Commanding, Officer at Camp A. E. Wood, and was given instructions to handle the sheepmen in a tough manner. Orders were to scatter the sheep, take off the bells and bring in the herders and sheepmen to headquarters. There was a great deal of trouble over the trespass of grazing in the Park.

During the winter months when the U. S. Troops were out of the Park, Archie and Charles Leidig, took over the responsibilities of patrolling and keeping law and, order until the troops returned the next summer.

Allan Sproul, a seasonal ranger assigned to the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees in the year 1914, says this about Archie. “Archie was not very communicative but he was always pleasant, and I should say tolerant of the college boy rangers. He knew the Park from years of travel over the trails. His hair was gray and rather long and his mustache drooped, his uniform consisted of a dirty slouch hat, a grayish colored shirt, which wouldn’t show the dirt of a season, and overalls worn low on the belt. He spoke in a soft voice and had a pleasant smile.”

Archie was one of the Guides for President Theodore Roosevelt when he visited the Yosemite Park in May 1903.

In 1917, changes took place on the ranger force, and due to his advancing age he could not handle full time ranger duties so he was changed from a permanent park ranger to a temporary first class ranger. This reduction in status occurred in September, and two months later he was furloughed. He was not recalled to service in the Park in 1918, and was discontinued with out prejudice from the Yosemite Ranger Force. He died in Stockton, California in 1921 at the age of 75.

Charles Leidig

Was born in the Old Lamon winter home in Yosemite Valley March 8, 1869, the first white boy born in the Valley.

His father was born in Pennsylvania, and came to California in the 1850’s. He worked in the mines at Coulterville where he met and married Isobel Dobie, in 1864. They moved to Yosemite Valley in 1866, took up land and built the Leidig Hotel under Sentinel Rock. They also built a log house for their winter home on the north side of the river across from the hotel. The location is still known as Leidig Meadow.

When Charles was old enough he went to work. His first job was to help build the dam at Mirror Lake and he was employed by the Commissioners of the Valley.

On August 25, 1898, he was appointed Special Forest Agent by the Federal Government and acted as guide and scout for the U.S. Troops, in summer. During the winter he was assigned to the protection of the Park while the troops were out. He was responsible for maintaining law and order along the park boundary, checking for trespassers and poachers. During the winter months hunters, stockmen and trappers had crossed the Park boundaries at will until Charles and Archie Leonard came to enforce the law covering the Park. The winter of 1899 he was stationed at Crockers Station, on the Big Oak Flat Road, near the west boundary.

Leidig lived at Wawona part of his time in service. There he worked under orders from the Army Officer at Camp A. E. Wood. From there soldiers were sent on four to twenty day trips into the remote area of the Park to patrol and check for trespass. Their orders were to break up the camps of the herders, scatter the sheep, and bring in the sheepmen. Then they would turn them loose on foot so they would have a difficult time gathering up their flocks if they ever were able to do so. The sheepmen got tired of this sort of punishment and soon came to respect the Park boundary. Major Benson insisted on law and order and kept his troops constantly on patrols.

Charles was one of the two guides and cook assigned to President Theodore Roosevelt’s party when he visited the Park in May 1903.

He left the service August 25, 1907 and for some years worked for the Yosemite Stage and Turn Pike Company at Wawona as Teamster -for the Washburns. From July 1, 1914, to September 30, 1914, and from May 1, 1915, to October 31, 1915, he worked in Yosemite as a park ranger. Charles left Yosemite in 1916 and moved to the bay area where he worked for the Hayward City Park Department for many years. He died in 1956, at the age of 88.

Forest S. Townsley

Born in Greeley Center, Nebraska, August 24, 1882. Moved to Guthrie, Oklahoma, with his parents at age of 6, rode a horse in the “Great Land Rush” at the opening of the Cherokee Strip, where his Father served as Deputy U.S. Marshal. Forest started his National Park career in June, 1904 at what was later known as Platt National Park, serving first as patrolman and later as park ranger. He came to Yosemite National Park as a ranger in 1913.

He was appointed Chief Ranger in 1916. Stephen T. Mather, Director of National Parks selected him to organize a ranger force at Grand Canyon National Park in 1919. While there the late King Albert of Belgium visited the Park and decorated Chief Townsley for horsemanship.

As Chief Park Ranger of Yosemite National Park, Townsley welcomed visitors from all parts of the world and from all stations in life and shared with them his love of the wilderness.

Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt visited the Park in 1934 at Young Lake, where she camped five days with a ranger party. She praised the Chief very highly. Later she wrote in her, “My Day,” of Townsley. Here are quotes from her column, “He has the kindliest face I know and the most humor, yet the eyes look you so straight in the face that I should hate to meet him if I wished to hide anything. He gave you a sense of his strength.”

His skill as taxidermist also brought special recognition from Stephen T. Mather, first Director of National Parks. His bird and mammal specimens were the nucleus of an exhibit which was the beginning of the first National Park Museum. These were originally prepared and displayed by Townsley in the ranger office in the Old Village in 1915. In 1920 the exhibits were moved to the Old Jorgensen Studio which served as the Park Museum until the opening of the present museum in 1926 at Government Center.

Chief Townsley wrote, “about 1905 during a conversation with Frank C. Churchill U. S. Inspector from Washington and Col. Swords, who was Superintendent of Platt National Park at that time, we discussed at length the uniform that was worn by Dr. Francois Matthes, in connection with his work in some of the South American countries. It was decided at that time that a uniform should be designated for the ranger service. A catalog issued by the M. D. Lilly and Company of Columbus, Ohio, showed a uniform similar to that worn by Dr. Matthes. We thought it a good serviceable outfit for a mounted patrol ranger. I ordered a uniform made up by the above company. It was very similar to the regulation soldier uniform at that time with high collar, regular riding breeches, Stetson hat olive drab color, with puttee leggings and officers military shoes.” This uniform with some later changes became the National Park Ranger Uniform.

Chief Ranger Townsley died of a heart attack on August 11, 1943. He was on a fishing trip in the Tuloumne Meadows area at “his lake,” Townsley Lake. He was accompanied on this trip by Oden S. Johnson, Mrs. Louis Clark of Yosemite, and Miss Mabel Radcliff, the County health Nurse. About 4 p.m., he sat down and suddenly became ill. The nurse felt his pulse and found that he was dead. He was survived by his wife Inez, son John Allen, two sons and two daughters from a previous marriage, Joseph Lee and Forest S., Jr., two daughters, Mrs. Frank Potts and Mrs. Stanley Cowell. Also his father, Willis L. Townsley, a brother John and two sisters, Mrs. Frank Lewis and Mrs. Harvey S. Neal.

Forest was Chief of the Yosemite Ranger Force 27 years. There is a Marker in the Yosemite Pioneer Cemetery to his memory.

Oliver R. Prien

Prien was appointed park ranger in Yosemite National Park in 1913. He came to the Park on the recommendation of George W. Lane, brother of the Secretary of the Interior, Franklin K. Lane. His first duties were collecting automobile fees at the entrance station and he was a mounted ranger on the floor of the Valley until 1914 when he was appointed Acting Chief Ranger. In 1915 he was appointed Chief Ranger.

Prien was the first Chief Ranger in Yosemite National Park. He assisted Supervisor, Gabriel Sovulewski and Mark Daniels general superintendent and landscape engineer of the National Parks, in reorganizing the ranger force along the lines set forth by the regulations governing rangers. The National Park Ranger Service was created in January 9, 1915. Prien was appointed Chief Ranger, April 1915 for the Yosemite Park. There were five permanent men and ten seasonal rangers in the Park at that time.

Prien didn’t get along with his contemporaries and was asked to resign in the fall of 1915. Mr. Mather did not dismiss Prien from the ranger force Put demoted him to first class ranger. He accepted his demotion and in 1916 transferred to the Sequoia National Park.

Prien’s reports noted that the reorganized ranger service established in 1914 was now able to handle the checking of automobiles, protection of the Park against forest fires, and poachers. Also the enforcement of the Park rules and regulations. This was the work performed in previous years by troops of U.S. Cavalry detailed and stationed in the Park each summer. He stated, “Arrangements have been made to put up two fire lookout stations one on Mount Hoffman, and the other on Sentinel Dome.”

Charles C. Bull

Charles was a Harvard graduate, athletic, resourceful and tactful. Prior to his Park employment he spent three years for the Detroit Copper Mining Company in Morenci, Arizona, as shift boss.

On May 1, 1914 he was appointed a park ranger for the Yosemite National Park. His first assignment was in the northern part of the Park. For a while he was stationed at Lake Eleanor, then at Crockers Station. In the spring of 1915 Charles received his assistant Chief Ranger appointment, and moved into the Yosemite Valley. He was considered a very fine ranger. When Oliver Prien was demoted, Bull took his place as Chief Ranger on January 1, 1916. He was scheduled to transfer to Rocky Mt. National Park, but decided to turn it down and resigned from the service May 3, 1916.

Allan Sproul

In May 1914, students from University of California were recommended by the University President, Wheeler. There was need of extra help at the time to fill the gap that the soldiers covered in previous years. Through the Department of Interior and connections with the University, these extra recruits were selected to help out in the summer of 1914. These seasonal rangers were, Oliver Haines, Eric Lawson, Leo Meyer, James Short, Dan Sink, Jean Witter and Allan Sproul. They were required to furnish horse and pack, rifle and revolver and cooking outfit, and were paid 100 dollars a month. These men arrived June 1, 1914. They arranged to get their stock and outfit at headquarters. Sproul states in his “writings” that his first assignment was at the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. Ollie Haines was assigned to Camp A. E. Wood. The others were placed at stations on roads and trails leading to the Park. Sproul further stated that he was met by Gabriel Sovulewski who was then Acting Superintendent of the Park, a man named Prien who was called the Chief Ranger, Forest Townsley, Jack Gaylar, Charles Leidig and Archie Leonard who were the regular rangers.

He was instructed to look for fires, to keep cattle and sheep out of the Park, to maintain the telephone line in his particular area. His one room cabin was on the side of the road, on a small shoulder near a ravine just before the road reaches the Sentinel Group of Sequoias. It was used by the cavalry as a cook shack when stationed there in past years.

Sproul looked after the Grove for five months and met many visitors who arrived by horse stage coach and on horseback. Chief Ranger Prien came through one day, found him playing tennis with Margery MacGowan, the belle of Wawona, daughter of the auditor, cashier and bookkeeper for Washburns. Prien suggested substituting an ax for the tennis racket and went on. Later in the season Superintendent Mark Daniels and a party made a hurried trip through the Grove, waving to him in passing. Sproul claimed that was the only supervision he’d had all summer.

During the early part of the 1914 season the Grove was still closed to automobiles although Yosemite Valley had been opened to automobiles since 1913. There was a brush clearing gang in the Grove for several months, removing the underbrush which was a fire hazard. John Conova. from Coulterville was in charge of the two Bruce boys and one other lad who may have been related to Archie Leonard. By mid summer 1914 automobiles were allowed to drive through the Grove and the duties of the ranger stationed there became more difficult.

The first rains came at the end of October and Sproul packed up and reported back to headquarters in the Valley to check out. He stated that he was very happy to have had such a responsible job as guardian of the Big Trees.

Charles F. Adair

Charles was born at Bear Valley, California, October 19, 1874. He spent a number of years as a miner in the Mother Lode country and Arizona before coming to Yosemite.

In 1914 and in 1915 he was appointed temporary ranger in Yosemite. On May 15, 1916 be was appointed as full park ranger. He was in charge of insect control work for about 15 years. From May 8, 1929 to October 27, 1929 he was acting Park Forester. He introduced Golden Trout into Adair Lake and in 1930 planted two Sequoia Gigantea trees which still stand before the NPS house number 56.

Charles was a real old time mounted ranger. He would cover the high country for weeks at a time alone and fought many forest fires single handed for in the early days there were only a few rangers to cover the Park. On his big gray saddle horse Rusty they made a picturesque sight as Charles came riding down a trail. During the big Wawona-Alder Creek Fire, in the early 1930’s he was trapped in a very dangerous place inside the fire line when the wind changed and took him by sudden surprise and it almost cost him his life. This experience no doubt affected his health and hastened his retirement on December 1, 1935. He and his Wife Gerda moved to Los Angeles, California, where he died December 7, 1936. Gerda still lives in Los Angeles. We get to see her occasionally and reminisce on old times.

Elbert C. Solinsky

Al, as most of his friends called him, was born April 26, 1886, in San Andreas, California. His father was born in Chinese Camp, in Tuolumne County and his mother in Campo Seco, in Calaveras County. His wife’s maiden name was Peek and she was born in Mokelumne Hill, California. Elbert worked as timber cruiser and land locator mostly in the Mother Lode country in his early life.

May 1, 1915 he was appointed special ranger in Yosemite, and in 1917 was promoted to forester. November 16, 1926, he was made assistant to the superintendent.

Al took a prominent part in handling the timber and land exchanges along the west side of Yosemite boundary. Dealing with the Yosemite Lumber Company of Merced Falls, in the exchange of some 6,000 acres of timber in the Chinquapin and Alder Creek area. As early as 1912 the cutting of timber in the Chinquapin area was started and logs hauled to Merced Falls. The exchange of timber lands between the lumber companies and the government began in 1915 and carried through to 1923. Solinsky worked directly under the superintendent and handled most of these timber deals in order to save the timber along the Wawona highway as a part of this was owned by private interests and would have eventually been logged off.

In the early 1920’s he took on the job of measuring the trails in the Park. This was done with a bicycle wheel with long handle bars and an odometer attached. The wheel was pushed ahead of his saddle horse and accurate mileage was established for all trails.

February 16, 1929 he was transferred to Crater Lake National Park, as Superintendent. He retired from there and made his home in Modesto, California.

George R. McNabb

George came to the Park with the U. S. Troops in the early 1900’s as a packer. He also did general carpenter work and assisted with the building of many park houses in Yosemite Valley. He was employed in the government carpenter shop for many years.

On May 1, 1915 he was appointed park ranger in Yosemite. He spent a number of summers patrolling the southern part of the Park where he maintained the trails, checking for poachers and grazing trespassers. George built the Chilnualna Cabin, out of shakes, near the top of Chilnualna Falls during his spare time. It was used as a patrol station and shelter during the early years and still stands to this day.

After McNabb transferred to the carpenter shop he did general work and repairs for the Park Service until his death on June 12, 1930.

Henry A. Skelton

Was born August 3, 1869 in Mariposa, California. He married Minnie Cook in 1899. She died about eight years later.

Henry’s father came from Mississippi during the gold rush days. He was born in Georgia. Henry’s mother was Phoebe Hodgson of Sherlock, California. They were Mariposa County homesteaders and his father was Deputy Sheriff in Mariposa for some years. In the early period of the County it took in much area clear down to the San Joaquin Valley.

Henry worked in and around Wawona, for the Yosemite Turnpike Stage Company. He also was a constable in Taft, California, prior to his work in Yosemite.

His first work in Yosemite was patrolling the Park as assistant special forest agent during the summer of 1898 and was later employed by the General Land Office, Department of the Interior. On May 14, 1915 be was assigned to the insect control crews in Yosemite. June 1, 1916, he was appointed as a park ranger, mounted, and remained a ranger until his retirement in 1932. During winters he assisted with relief duty at the old power house at Happy Isles, later at the new power house.

Henry was a real old time mounted patrol ranger and covered the entire Park. He would be out alone for weeks at a time alone in the high country, planting fish, fighting forest fires and checking for grazing trespassers. He spent much of his time in the Mather and Hetch Hetchy district. Henry was of hardy, pioneer stock and could be depended on to do a good job under all conditions. His superiors considered him efficient and qualified to handle all ranger duties. He was liked by every one that knew him.

Henry retired in 1932 the first ranger to leave the Park Service by reason of the Retirement Act. He was road supervisor at Mariposa, California, for one term and lived with his two brothers near Mariposa until his death February 3, 1955 in Modesto, California.

Arthur L. Gallison

Arthur was born October 29, 1896 in Mariposa, California. His father worked as a blacksmith for Washburns at Wawona for many years. His grandfather, Will Turner, ran cattle in Yosemite Park, in what is known as Turner Meadows in the south end of the Park in the 1880’s.

Art’s first job in the park was in 1912, he drove a one horse dump cart for ihe road crew on the Wawona and Glacier Point roads.

The summers of 1913 and 1914 he was a porter at the Wawona Hotel. His park work started in 1915. He was employed with the Insect Control operations under Ranger Adair. In 1916 he was appointed temporary ranger, this year he planted fish in an unnamed lake in the Tuolumne Meadow area, and it is now known as Gallison Lake. In 1918 he was out on military leave, with the U.S. Army. In 1919 returned to the ranger job and received permanent appointment as storekeeper and property clerk.

In 1919 he married Ruth Pearson, who spent four summers working as a waitress for Mother Curry at Camp Curry dining room. They had three children, Dorothy, Glen and Robert, all grew up in Yosemite.

Art was senior clerk doing disbursing and cashier work in the park, 1929 to 1931. He was purchasing clerk until 1943, then took over purchasing and storekeeping jobs. In 1953 he was promoted to supply assistant.

Arthur retired July 31, 1953, he had 37 years of government service. The Gallison’s are making their home in Merced, California.

Clyde Boothe

Born near Usona, California, Mariposa County. His father was a pioneer rancher in that area.

On June 1, 1915 he was appointed a mounted ranger and spent most of his time patrolling the high country of the Park. He was promoted to Assistant Chief Ranger in July 1921 and was in charge of entrance stations and fire chief duty. On August 31, 1927 Clyde resigned from the ranger service to enter private business with the Best Tractor Company and became very successful. Later he engaged in ranching and cattle raising. His home is in Modesto, California.

Gabriel Sovulewski

Born August 12, 1866 in Suwalki, Poland. He enlisted in the U. S. Army November 19, 1888 and advanced to quartermaster sergeant. In 1891-1892 was placed in charge of the General Grant National Park which was then under military rule. He was in Yosemite with the U. S. Troops 1895-1896-1897. During the Spanish American War he was in the Philippines, in 1899 he returned to Yosemite with the troops as packer and guide. During the San Francisco earthquake of 1906 he did relief work while stationed at the Presidio.

Gabriel was supervisor of Yosemite National Park from August 12, 1906 to March 4, 1916 when he became special ranger and acting superintendent. He served as general foreman, administrative from July 1, 1917 to April 30, 1920. On this date he was appointed park supervisor, the post he held until he retired, August 31, 1936.

Through the long years his devotion to his job and the service set a fine example to all who served under him. He would ride horseback many miles a day in order to keep his trail crews going to make trails safe and keep maintenance up to Park standard.

Gabriel married Rose I. Rider in 1896 and they had seven children, Laurence, Robert, Joe, Tom Grace, Mildred and Gabriel.

Gabriel died November 29, 1938. Mr. and Mrs. Sovulewski are buried in the Yosemite Pioneer Cemetery.

Frank B. Ewing

Born June 8, 1885 at Rattlesnake Bar, El Dorado County, California. In 1915 Frank was a packer for Stephen T. Mather and party of wealthy public spirited men when they made an extensive trip into the High Sierras to study and formulate plans for the Park’s protection.

Frank served as a park ranger in Yosemite from March 31, 1916 to December 31, 1918. This was the transition period from army to the civilian management. On March 1, 1920 he was appointed assistant supervisor in charge of roads and trails, and from December 5, 1936 to November 12, 1944 he served as employment manager.

Frank was a Park employee 34 years, for a total of 43 years of government service. He retired as Operations manager June 30, 1950. He married Grace Sovulewski and they have two children, Herbert and Charlotte who both live in the Park. Frank retired to his ranch near Mariposa, California.

John H. Wegner

Was born. December 31, 1884 in Merced, California. John’s first job in Yosemite was in the valley store during 1914 and 1916 as clerk. He was an ardent baseball player and belonged to the Merced Ball Team. He married Rose Thornton of Merced, California, and they had one son, Francis.

On June 2, 1916 he was appointed temporary ranger and assigned to the Crane Flat Station, on the Old Big Oak Flat Road. Francis was a baby six months old at the time and the Wegners lived in the government log, cabin which was moved to Wawona in 1959 as part of the Pioneer Center.

John was assigned to mounted patrol from 1918 to 1926. He made many trips into the high country and spent two years at Hetch Hetchy as ranger in charge. In 1927 he was appointed Acting Assistant Chief Ranger, and received permanent Assistant Chief, March 1, 1928. John always took a keen interest in fire protection work. In 1929 he attended the U. S. Forest Service short term Forestry School and later was assigned to work with John Coffman in preparing a forest fire protection plan for the Park. He became Park Fire Chief in 1931.

John was a member of the Safety Advisory Council for many years and a member of the Board of Directors of the Yosemite Credit Union. He also was president of the National Federation of Federal Employees.

During the hoof and mouth disease epidemic of 1923-1924, which spread to the deer in the Park, John was assigned as liaison officer representing the Park and the adjacent area for the control of the epidemic.

John had much to do with the establishment of fire lookouts and fire protection equipment. The first fire engine was a 1926 Graham Dodge truck, converted to a chemical fire truck equipped with racks for shovels, axes and rakes. A fire engine equipped with ladders, hoses and a water tank came later. Prior to the establishment of the Civilian Conservation Corps man power was a big problem. Often a lone ranger went to a fire and stayed with it until it was out regardless of time and size.

John made a fine ranger for his heart and soul was in the work. He became Acting Chief Ranger a short time after the death of Chief Ranger Townsley and was then transferred to Sequoia National Park as Chief Ranger, February 25, 1944. John remained there until his retirement on December 31, 1949. He has made his home in Los Angeles the past few years.

James V. Lloyd

James came to the Park from Washington, D.C., where he had worked as a messenger and assistant map printer for the U. S. Geological Survey. He became a park ranger in Yosemite on June 4, 1916. James escorted many special parties around the Park and was information ranger and official photographer of the Yosemite.

He was assigned as automobile checker at Dog Creek, on the eastern part of the Tioga Road in 1917 and lived in a tent. When the five year old son of the Ansel S. Williams Family of Stockton, California, friends of the Bingamans, became lost in the Dog Creek area while trying to follow his father who was fishing, James with the help of others found the boy that afternoon. That was on July the 4th and snow drifts were still heavy along the road.

I remember James in 1918, as a mounted ranger riding through the campgrounds in Yosemite. He called at our Camp 15 and asked about our welfare. That was our first summer in the Park.

In 1918 he joined the Navy for the duration of World War I. He returned and was reinstated as park ranger in March of 1919. On August 23, 1922 he was furloughed at his own request. However, April 1, 1924, he was recalled, and on March 1, 1931 was promoted to Assistant to the Superintendent. James was transferred as Assistant Superintendent to the Grand Canyon National Park on January 16, 1932.

James progressed in the service after leaving Yosemite and held many important positions. He now is Superintendent of Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado.

William Henry Nelson

Born July 21, 1873, in Merced Falls, California. His father Henry Nelson came from St. Johns, New Brunswick, and migrated to the United States at age of six.

As a boy, William worked for his father who owned and operated a grist mill at Merced Falls. In 1906-1907 he worked for the Yosemite Valley Railroad and later clerked in the Yosemite Store prior to becoming a Park ranger on June 1, 1917.

During his years as a ranger, he escorted many celebrated visitors through the Park. When King Albert of Belgium and the Royal Family visited the Valley, Billy conducted them on a horseback trip to Glacier Point. Billy was impressed with the importance of properly addressing royalty and when presented to the King he walked up to him and extended his hand saying, “The Chief told me what I was to say to you but I’ve forgotten so you call me Billy and I’ll call you King.” The two became fast friends and for many years Billy received greetings from his friend the King.

When camping increased Billy took charge of all campgrounds in the Park. He rode a white horse and the camp people respected him and lived up to the camp rules. He was always ready and willing to help the campers. Billy was kindly, observant, patient and broadly experienced in dealing with people. He served seven years in charge of the Camps.

In July of 1934, Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt made a pack trip to Young Lake, in the Yosemite. Billy was in charge and presented Mrs. Roosevelt with a hot water bottle to keep her warm on the cold nights at the 9,500 elevation.

Nelson held about every job there was in the ranger service including that of Acting Chief Ranger, in the late summer and fall of 1935, when Chief Townsley was away on special duty. Billy retired July 31, 1936.

When World War II came Billy was anxious to do his part and was fortunate to be able to reinstate. He served from May 18, 1943 to December 1, 1945 and then retired for the second time at the age of 72.

On his retirement he moved with his wife to Mariposa, California, where he died September 13, 1952. Honorary pall bearers for his funeral were, Chief Ranger Sedergren, rangers, Jacobs, Robinson, Johnson, Heller and Bingaman. Services and burial were in Merced, California.

Ernest R. Reed

Born December 19, 1878 in Louisburg, Kansas. Ernie worked for the Fred Harvey Eating Houses for the Santa Fe Railroad most of his young life.

On August 6, 1918, Reed signed up as park ranger and was assigned the Bridalveil Checking Station at the foot of the Old Wawona Road. This was a one way control road at that time. Traffic went up on the even hour and down on the odd hour. He operated this post from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. while the road was open. In the winter he worked as cook in the Old Rangers Club near the Sentinel Bridge. Summers found him back to the Bridalveil. Station until the All Year Road opened.

During 1926 Reed was in charge of the New Arch Rock Entrance Station which he was very proud of and kept it beautifully landscaped. Managing the station was a man’s job and his genial personality and thoughtful consideration for visitors to Yosemite made him many friends.

Ernie weighed some two hundred and fifty pounds and was a great joker. One time I remember three girls stopping at the Station on their way out and one complained about how cold it was in the Valley. Ernie never cracked a smile but said, “Why you shouldn’t have gotten cold sitting by that fat sister of yours.” The girls just laughed and went on their way.

Ernie and his wife Jessie lived to eat. They were always talking about food and were very hospitable in wanting friends in to eat with them. Martha and I had many wonderful meals with the Reeds and will never forget their hospitality.

Ernie died in the Lewis Memorial Hospital, June 12, 1939 of a heart attack. They had plans to retire soon and start a motel business in Santa Barbara. Jessie did this very thing. She bought and operated a small deluxe Motel for ten years. She died there in February 1957.

Clare Marie Hodges

Born 1890 in Santa Cruz, California. May 22, 1918 to September 7, 1918, Clare was a temporary ranger in Yosemite. She was also a school teacher in the Yosemite School for a time. She was president of the literary society of the San Jose Normal School, her alma mater, and authored “Songs of the Trail.” She often said that her love of Mariposa County and the mountains, was the deciding factor in taking the job as lady ranger. Clare rode mounted patrol over the Valley trails and reported direct to the chief ranger.

Visitors were quite surprised to see a lady ranger with badge and full riding uniform. Clare married Peter J. Wolfsen, a stockman, who lived near Mariposa. They took an active part in County activities. They worked with the Junior camp of the Seventh Day Adventist Camp at Wawona. Just recently a nature trail was dedicated in their name, “The Wolfsen Nature Trail.”

Charles B. Rich

Born August 8, 1894, in Willow Lake, South Dakota. His father Albert Rich came from Pennsylvania and his mother, Jessie Mary Collins, came from Michigan.

Charles married Maybell, at Ceres, California, January 16, 1915. They had one son and two daughters.

On July 6, 1919 Charles was appointed park ranger. He specialized in law enforcement, working as undercover operator and was credited in bringing numerous criminals to trial. He was in charge of Public Order for several years. During the fall season he was usually assigned to mounted patrol for checking hunters along the Park Boundary. During the early 1920’s he assisted other rangers in tracking down several convicts who had escaped from the Road Camp.

Charles resigned from the Ranger Service April 17, 1927, to join the Secret Service, in Washington, D.C. He served a number of presidents at the White House and when the presidents traveled outside of Washington. He was with President Franklin D. Roosevelt in Yosemite in 1938.

Rich also protected Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt on her trips to Yosemite.

Charles retired from the Secret Service September 1, 1950, and moved to Carnelian Bay, California. We have had the pleasure of visiting the family there several times.

John W. Bingaman

Born on a farm June 18, 1896, in Bellevue, Ohio. His parents were John Daniel Bingaman and Susan Jane Boyer Bingaman both born near Lewisberg, Pennsylvania. They moved to Bellevue, Ohio in 1895. Grand-father Bingaman moved to Union County Pennsylvania in the early 1800s from Reading, Pennsylvania.

John attended the public school in, Bellevue, Ohio, and helped his father on the farm. In 1914-1915 he worked as yard checker for the New York Central Railroad in Elkhart, Indiana and in 1916 moved to Stockton, California, where he worked for the Southern Pacific Railroad for a short time and for the Holt Tractor Company of Stockton making big tanks and combinders during the World War I.

John married Martha Buyek in Oakland, California, on June 17, 1916. Martha was born in Railroad Flat, Calaveras County, California. Her father, Frank Buyck, was a miner in his early life and later worked on the water projects in Calaveras County. Her mother died when Martha was six years old.

On April 20, 1918 John and Martha went to the Yosemite, where he worked for the Yosemite Park Company as guide and packer under Jim Helm who was manager of the horse concession at that time. The winter of 1919 he was caretaker and hotel manager at Glacier Point Mountain House. During the winter of 1920 to the opening of the summer season he managed the Company Stables at Kenneyville.

June 15, 1921 John was appointed permanent park ranger under Chief Ranger Townsley and W. B. Lewis Superintendent. His first assignment was fighting a 30 acre forest fire at Big Meadow with one other ranger and assisted by the Meyers Boys. During 1932-1933 he was in charge of the Camp Grounds. 1934-1936 headquarters duty. On June 22, 1937 he was promoted to district ranger in charge of the Wawona district. In October of 1940 he changed to the Mather ranger district and then in 1944 he changed back to the Wawona District. During 1950 he was in charge of the Tuolumne Meadow District and then back to the Wawona District from 1951 to 19.54 in charge of Wawona District. 1955-1956 he was again assigned to the Tuolumne Meadows District. He retired from the Service October 31, 1956.

As a ranger he received special training at the NPS Fire Training School, the F.B.I. Training and Instruction and all routine training and instruction courses given to seasonal employees to keep up standard procedures and to fully cooperate with Forest Service.

He was district ranger of the Mather District on September 9, 1948 when the Rancheria and Pate Valley Fire started. This was the largest fire in Park records and over 11,000 acres were burned.

During his long service as a Yosemite Park ranger he did many things such as fighting forest fires, handling crews and organizing search for lost people. He was assigned to many important visitors and took them through the Park. These special assignments included ranger service and guide for Stephen T. Mather, Horace M. Albright, President Franklin D. Roosevelt and Mrs. Roosevelt on their trips to Yosemite and also a number of Senators and Congressmen when they visited the Park.

On retirement he and Martha have turned to trailer life spending their winters in the desert and summers in the mountains and National Parks.

Herbert R. Sault

Born August 14, 1884 in Holden, Massachusetts. He came to California in 1903 and worked on a cattle ranch at Big Sur, Monterey County. During the 1906 earthquake, at San Jose, he was deputized and patrolled on horseback until the militia arrived. In 1907 he moved to the Santa Cruz mountains where he operated a general store until he entered the Ranger Service in Yosemite, on May 1, 1922.

Bert, as he was known by all his friends, had many different assignments especially in the winter months when he worked in the Park machine shop, painting and repairing the official cars and helping Al Kottner on many maintenance jobs. Summer he was mounted ranger and covered most of the Park. He was of the ranger group that captured four convicts who had escaped from the prison camp near Briceburg. Ranger Sault and Rich also caught several well known bootleggers who were operating in the Park. He was with a number of search parties sent out for lost persons. He was assigned to boundary patrol with Ranger Adair, usually in the fall to check on hunters and illegal grazing near the high passes.

In 1924, Bert was assigned to Al Solinsky to measure the 700 miles of trails in the Park and later post them with metal signs. It took about three weeks to make this trip which started at Alder Creek and ended at Tuolumne Meadows. There they took on fresh supplies and continued through the north end of the Park. This was the first official trail measurement made. Only a few old shingle signs were found at junctions, and it was thought they were put up by the soldiers in the early years.

Of his experience as a Park ranger, he said, “It was a wonderful period in my life and although it was tough at times I have never regretted one minute of it.”

Bert had three children, Jack, Bill and Juanita to support and educate and he finally decided to leave the ranger service. Sault joined the National Automobile Association in Los Angeles, worked his way up in the organization.

Later he married Helen Mickel, a school teacher in the Yosemite Valley and they had one daughter, Shirley. Bert retired a few years ago and is now in Altadena enjoying some of his hobbies, photography, shop work, and a little travel.

Homer B. Hoyt

Born September 25, 1897 in Cleveland, Ohio. He worked on the boats plying the Great Lakes during his early life.

On May 1, 1923, Homer entered the Yosemite Ranger Service. For a number of years he drove Superintendent Lewis and Director Mather about the Park on official business. He was assigned to the Chief Ranger Office and was usually the ranger who escorted special visitors through the Park. The first few winters, before the travel became heavy, he worked in the Park Machine Shop repairing park service cars and trucks.

He specialized in office procedures, handling all the ranger reports and travel records and was in charge of the Information office.

Homer has seen many changes in the administration of the Park Service. He no doubt has written more reports, and handled more paper work, than any other ranger in the Service. One summer he was in charge of Tuolumne Meadows District. And for a few years was in charge of Arch Rock Entrance Station.

He married Florence Gallison, sister of Arthur Gallison, who was born in Mariposa, California, a pioneer family that spent much of their time in Wawona and Yosemite in the early 1900’s. Her father, Daniel F. Gallison, was an early settler in Mariposa who worked in Wawona many years as blacksmith for the Washburns. Florence worked in the Yosemite Telephone Exchange for a number of years and it was there she met Homer. They had two sons, Larry and Donald. Donald died from a serious illness during World War II.

The Information Desk and files of the Ranger Department have been made more interesting and informative as the years go by and Homer left written data that will be used in the files indefinitely.

Homer retired June, 1959, and moved to his home in Pleasant Hill, California.

Edward D. Freeland

Born August 16, 1901, on a farm in the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania. His parents were Charles Edward and Alice Low Freeland both of Pennsylvania ancestry. Edward was the youngest of five children, two sisters and two brothers. In 1910 the family moved to Coming, California, where he attended grade and high school.

During World War I he volunteered for Navy duty and saw service in France. After the war he worked for Heinz Company in Coming and in 1920 was fire lookout on Turner Mountain, in Lassen National Forest.

He married Beatrice Blanchard, a music teacher in Coming, September 30, 1922 in San Francisco. Beatrice’s parents were well known teachers in the San Francisco Bay area.

On May 1, 1923, Freeland was appointed temporary ranger in Yosemite National Park. Much of the summer was spent patrolling the high country with saddle and pack horse, fighting forest fires and taking care of other Park duties. That winter the Freelands returned to their home in Corning. The next spring he returned to the Park and resumed his ranger work. He was assigned to Bridalveil. Checking Station on the Old Wawona Road. In the winter of 1924 he assisted at the museum and the Park carpenter shop.

Dick, as he was known to all his friends, recalls his experience at the Bridalveil Checking Station for he was on duty thirteen weeks from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. with no days off and never out of hearing of the telephone bell. Other rangers brought supplies from the. village store to him and his only complaint was the lack of a barber.

On July 1, 1926 he received his permanent Park Ranger appointment. Dick was on many rescues and search parties for lost persons in Yosemite. He also was assigned to the ranger escorts for such notables as the Crown Prince, now the King of Sweden, and family, and also Mr. and Mrs. John D. Rockefeller and their five sons, when they inspected the New Yosemite Museum, which had been built in part from the Laura Spellman Rockefeller funds. Director Stephen T. Mather came in from time to time, and Dick aot to know him quite well.

One time Dick and Beatrice rode the fish truck to Tuloumne Meadows and, while there a snow storm stranded them for two days before they were able to ride out on horseback.

Dick was one of the first in a group of five rangers to make a snow survey trip to the high country for the State Water Resources of California. It was a five day trip and they traveled on snowshoes with all their food and equipment on their backs for the cabins were not stocked with supplies at that time.

In 1928, Dick was Acting District ranger on the valley floor and in August 1929 was selected by Superintendent Thomson and Director Horace M. Albright as Chief Ranger at Carlsbad National Park. There he organized the first ranger and guide force in uniform. They both initiated the now famous, “Bat Flight Talk,” so popular with Carlsbad Visitors.

He was promoted to the Superintendency of Wind Cave National Park in the Black Hills in 1931, and in 1939 was transferred as coordinating Superintendent of Southeastern Monuments in St. Augustine Florida. The areas administered at that time consisted of Fort Marion, the old Spanish Fort now known as the Castillo De San Marcos, Fort Matanzas, Fort Frederica, and Ocmulgee in Georgia. The Freelands lived in a pre Civil War house, directly on the Fort Green, had a view of the ocean, fort and ancient city gates.

January 1, 1942, he was transferred to Shenandoah National Park in Virginia, as Superintendent, with headquarters about five miles from Luray, Virginia.

He was again transferred to the Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming in 1950. This was controversial area at that time for it was undergoing the struggle of adding the Jackson Hole National Monument, an adjacent area bought by John D. Rockefeller Jr., to the Grand Teton National Park.

In 1953, Freelands transferred to Lassen Volcanic National Park in California, as superintendent, and now lives at Mineral, headquarters for the Park. So the Freelands have made a circle of the National Parks and Monuments. What a varied experience and knowledge of many places in the park service! They both say they like them all and have made many friends. Freelands experience in the Park service points up what a wonderful career can be made in this field.

Gustave M. Eastman

Born October 2, 1886 in Manhattan, Kansas. He was a carpenter by trade but studied criminal identification and belonged to several law enforcement agencies and was a rancher near Madera, California before coming to Yosemite.

On May 15, 1925 he became a temporary ranger in Yosemite and in July 1, 1928 received permanent appointment as Park ranger. Gus, as his friends called him, took a leading part in the law enforcement of the Ranger Department and was in charge of public order much of his time in the Park. He was assigned to the important job at Wawona in 1932 when the Park service took over all of Wawona. There was much to do in bringing rules and regulations up to the Park standard.

Superintendent Thomson gave Gus the title of Assistant Chief Ranger at that time. His job there at first was not easy for there were many trying conditions to put up with but he did a splendid job of the assignment.

Gus spent a number of years at Wawona and then in charge at Mather Ranger District. He had many experiences in the field fighting forest fires, rescuing lost people and patrolling the high country with saddle and pack horse. He spent a number of winters at Mather Ranger Station during the time when the Hetch Hetchy Dam was raised 85 feet. A large labor camp was quartered at Hetch Hetchy for several years, which brought more work and supervision to this district.

Gus was in charge of the important Valley District in later years, and this gave him a wide variety of experience. He was respected by every one for he was a true officer of the law in the performance of his duties.

His wife Ada, passed away suddenly February 10, 1950 and on December 31, 1950 Gus retired from the ranger service and moved to Mariposa, California. Later he married a very good friend of the family, Irene Bushnell, and they built a home near Mariposa where they are enjoying their retirement.

Carl L. Danner

Born in Woody, California, May 23, 1887. Prior to his employment in Yosemite he worked with Southern Pacific Railroad, Biological Survey, Indian Service, Forest Service, Edison Company, Pacific Gas Company and as a rancher in and around Porterville, California, where his family and relatives lived most of their lives.

On June 10, 1926, he was appointed temporary ranger in Yosemite and in July 1, 1928, received his permanent appointment as park ranger.

Carl was a fine horseman, could ride any horse you would give him and feel at home in the saddle. He spent much of his ranger life in the high country, patrolling, planting fish and checking fishermen and campers. He was assigned to the Tuolumne Meadows District about ten summers, and no doubt Carl covered every trail in the Park. He planted a number of unnamed lakes and his knowledge of the high country, his ability to handle stock and care for himself under all kinds of emergencies made him an outstanding ranger.

Eliza his wife, was with him much of the time and was a Yosemite Valley school teacher for a few years.

I should tell a story on the Danners, a true one. One fall, while the Danners were stationed in Tuolumne Meadows, a sudden snow storm came up and snowed them in. Three snow plows had to be sent to get them out. The first two plows broke down and finally a third plow had to be sent out to make the rescue.

Upon retiring, December 31, 1949, Carl and Eliza traveled one year over the United States, in a House Trailer. They finally settled down and bought a home in Porterville, California. Carl died November 16, 1960 from the results of an automobile accident near Tulare, California.

Samuel L. Clark

Born February 7, 1899, near Globe, Arizona. Before entering Park service he was employed by the Merced Irrigation District and as a surveyor on the construction project of relocating the Yosemite Valley Railroad from Horseshoe Bend to Merced Falls.

He was appointed temporary ranger of the Yosemite in 1924. On May 1, 1929 he received a field agreement and July 12, 1929 received his permanent appointment as park ranger. November 17, 1929 he was transferred to Sequoia National Park as park ranger. April 16, 1939 returned to Yosemite. On October 19, 1942 he was furloughed to the U.S. Army during World War II and returned to Yosemite and his ranger job. May 15, Sam was promoted to district ranger and assigned to Chinquapin District, later to Mather District and in 1958 transferred to Wawona Ranger District.

Sam has been a mounted patrol ranger, and covered about every part of the park and has had many interesting experiences during his years as a ranger. He told me last summer, that when he retires the Clarks plan to locate near Oakhurst, California.

Otto M. Brown

Born May 23, 1906 in Ceres, California. He was first appointed as a temporary ranger in Yosemite, May 4, 1927, and on May 15, 1929 he was made a full ranger. In 1940 he became wild life ranger in Yosemite.

He was on furlough to the U.S. Army during World War II from September 2, 1942 to November 13, 1945 when he returned to ranger duty.

On August 27, 1946 he was transferred to Olympic National Park in Washington, as Chief Ranger and from there in 1952 to Yellowstone Park as Chief Ranger. In 1959 to Crater Lake National Park as superintendent.

Otto progressed rapidly in the park service and held many important positions. At this writing the Browns live in Medford, Oregon, the winter quarters for the Crater Lake National Park.

Wilfred K. Merrill

Born in Chicago, Illinois, November 5, 1903. Bill moved to California with his mother and sister and attended public school in Gardena. He was in the Navy 1920-1921, went with the U.S. Forest Service from 1922-1923, the California Fish and Game Commission in 1924 and then back to the Forest Service for two years.

On May 15, 1927 he was appointed temporary ranger, in Yosemite and in 1928 received his permanent appointment as park ranger.

Bill married Margaret Becker in 1930, and they went to Tuolumne Meadows on their honeymoon as he was in charge of the Station that fall. They were snowed in and had to be rescued by the Park snow plows. His old buddies still kid him about this incident.

On November 5, 1937 Bill transferred to Boulder Dam Recreation Area. From there to General Grant National Park as ranger in charge. He transferred back to Yosemite May 12, 1942 and was the ranger in charge of Arch Rock Entrance Station and South Entrance Station until June 4, 1949 when he was transferred to Olympic National Park as District ranger and remained there until his retirement, November 1, 1958.

The Merrills moved to Sonora, California, where they built a new home and are enjoying their retirement. Mrs. Merrill is the author of “Bears in my Kitchen.”

Chapter XXIII

PART III—CIVILIAN SUPERINTENDENTS—ASSISTANT SUPERINTENDENTS AND NATURALISTS OF YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

Mark Daniels

July 11, 1914 to May 25, 1915

George V. Bell

June 1, 1915 to November 15, 1915

Mark Daniels

November 16, 1915 to December 9, 1915

Gabriel Sovulewski

December 10, 1915 to March 3, 1916

W. B. Lewis

April 4, 1916 to July 1, 1928

E. P. Leavitt

July 5, 1928 to February 15, 1929

Chas. Goff Thomson

February 16, 1929 to March 22, 1937

John B. Wosky

March 23, 1937 to June 2, 1937

L. C. Merriam

June 3, 1937 to July 30, 1941

Frank A. Kittredge

August 1, 1941 to Nov. 30, 1947

Dr. Carl P. Russell

December 1, 1947 to November 1, 1952

John C. Preston

November 1, 1952 to (1961) to the present time.

During an illness of Superintendent Lewis in 1926, A. E. Demaray then Assistant Director of National Park Service, was assigned to Yosemite for a period of approximately six weeks during July and August, to take charge of administrative duties.

In the interim between the departure of W.. B. Lewis and the arrival of Charles G. Thomson, Horace M. Albright, then Assistant Director, was assigned to Yosemite for a period of several months.

Prior to the First Civilian Superintendents the army officer in charge of the U. S. Troops, was the Acting Superintendent.
THE FIRST DIRECTOR OF THE NATIONAL PARKS

Stephen Tyng Mather

Born July 4, 1867 in San Francisco, California. Sometime after graduation from the University of California he entered the Borax Company with large holdings in Death Valley and made a fortune. Later Mr. Mather became an industrial tycoon.

During his travels he visited several of the National Parks in the west and was dissatisfied with the manner in which they were conducted. He wrote a letter of criticism to Washington and received a reply from Franklin K. Lane, Secretary of the Interior. Lane was an old college chum and suggested Mather come to the Capital and take charge of the Parks and “run them your way.”

He went to Washington to do just that and on January 21, 1915 he was appointed Assistant to the Secretary of the Interior. In 1916 he became the

The first park office in Old Village up to 1924

First Director of National Parks, under Franklin K. Lane, then Secretary of the Interior.

Mr. Mather gave freely of his personal fortune for the benefit of the National Parks. He was an outstanding executive with a surprising ability to remember names. Mather would remember a person’s name years after their first introduction.

I remember camping with him in Tuolumne Meadows in the early 1920’s, he would tell us many interesting stories of the people that lived and contributed to the expansion of the west.

He personally bought the Old Tioga Road and gave it to Yosemite. This road had been constructed in 1882-1883 by the Great Sierra Consolidated Silver Mining Company for the purpose of serving the Tioga Mine. He also gave the Ranger Club House in Yosemite Valley to the Park.

Much of the Park Service ideals and development has been due to the clear vision, enthusiasm and untiring energy of Mr. Mather. It was a great loss and shock to the nation when he was forced to resign as Director due to serious illness. He died January 22, 1930.

Horace Marden Albright

Born January 6, 1890 in Bishop California, a native of Inyo County, Horace’s father, George L. Albright came to the Bishop country during the early mining days of the 1870’s. He settled first at Aurora, Nevada and was a contractor for the mines. Later he became a funeral director. He also lived in Bishop, California for many years. His mother, maiden name, “Marden”, was born in Mokelumne Hill, California. Both father and mother died in Bishop, and are buried in the local cemetery.

Horace attended high school in Stockton, California, and the University of California in Berkeley. He majored in law and graduated in 1912 earning his own way from the age of eighteen and went on to take a post graduate course in mining law. Upon leaving college he became a law clerk and assistant attorney in the Department of Interior in Washington D. C.

When Mr. Mather became Assistant Secretary of the Interior in charge of National Parks in 1915, Mr. Albright was assigned by Secretary Franklin K. Lane to Mr. Mather, as legal aid and adviser. The two became close friends and Albright inspired and encouraged by his able Chief, was given large responsibilities as work progressed.

When the National Park Service was organized in 1916, it was only natural that Secretary Lane should appoint Mather as Director, and Horace Albright as Assistant Director.

When Mr. Mather was stricken with a serious illness the load of the Bureau fell upon the shoulders of Albright. In 1917-1918-1919 he did much in bringing about the creation of additional land for new parks. In 1919 Horace was appointed as Superintendent of Yellowstone Park in Wyoming. In addition be held the post of Field Assistant which necessitated visiting all of the other Parks as well as handling the general legal and adminstrative problems in the west for Director Mather. As a result he was instrumental in writing the policies, and defining the spirit of the National Park Service.

He resigned from the Park Service in 1933 to enter the U. S. Potash Corporation with headquarters in New York, where he served as Director, Vice President, and General Manager. He was also a member of Board of Directors of the U. S. Borax and Chemical Corporation in New York. Horace retired from this Corporation in 1956 and he and his wife Grace made their home in Wykagyl Gardens, New Rochelle, New York.

YOSEMITE’S FIRST SUPERINTENDENT UNDER
PARK SERVICE STATUS

Washington B. Lewis

On March 3, 1916 Mr. Lewis came from Washington D. C. He was a topographer for the first National Geograp[h]ic Society Expeditions to Alaska in 1909. In 1907 he worked on surveys in Wyoming in connection with geological investigations of coal lands and in 1911 went to the Argentine for exploratory surveys in Patagonia.

He had a difficult time with the first development of Yosemite, due to lack of funds, and a tremendous job to get it organized to conform to the Park Service policies.

In the fall of 1927 Mr. Lewis suffered a heart attack. Later he was able to return to his duties but in September 1928 it was necessary that he give up the responsibilities of the superintendent’s office.

With Mrs. Lewis and son Carl he moved to West Virginia where he there regained his health sufficiently to accept the appointment as Assistant Director, under Mr. Mather, but his health soon failed and he suffered another heart attack and died at his home in Chevy Chase, Maryland, August 28, 1930.

Charles Goff Thomson

Born February 9, 1883 in Little Falls, New York. He served as Superintendent at Crater Lake National Park, and transferred to Yosemite National Park as Superintendent February 16, 1929.

He had many qualifications that distinquished him as an able executive. Colonel, as he was called by most every one, was largely responsible for the construction and improvements of the Wawona Road and Tunnel, the Glacier Point and commencement of the Big Oak Flat Road. Also the improved water system at the Mariposa Big Trees, Wawona and Tuolumne Meadows and the construction of the new government utility building. During his administration the important land acquisition of the Wawona Basin project, and the Carl Inn Sugar Pine addition added heavy administrative responsibilities upon the superintendent’s office.

The emergency programs, the CCC, the WPA, and the PWA, greatly expended the developmental activities in the Park after 1933.

He had a dynamic personality, energy and experience. His keen sense of fitness and desire for the harmony of things in the National Park made itself felt in the design of the physical development.

His untimely death, March 23, 1937 at the Lewis Memorial Hospital, from a heart attack was a real loss to the Park Service.

His wife Hazel worked in the National Park Service Office in San Francisco for some years and two sons, Pete and Jeff reside in the San Francisco area.

Lawrence C. Merriam

On June 3, 1937 Mr. Merriam was appointed Superintendent of Yosemite National Park. Lawrence was a graduate of forestry from the University of California in 1921 and had worked with the emergency conservation program in the State Parks. It was Harold L. Ickes, Secretary of the Interior, who appointed Merriam Senior Conservationist in the National Park Service, and finally appointed him to the Superintendency of Yosemite National Park.

In August 1941 Merriam became Regional Director of Region Two, headquarters in Omaha, Nebraska. Later he transferred to Region Four in San Francisco, California, where he still holds the responsible job of Regional Director.

Frank A. Kittredge

Mr. Kittredge became superintendent of Yosemite National Park August 1, 1941. Frank was transferred here from Grand Canyon National Park. He served with the bureau of public roads and had given much of his time and energy to the road work throughout the National Parks. His duties as Chief Engineer took him to many places where he supervised the construction of new Roads, and other improvements.

He served as Regional Director for a few years in Region Four in San Francisco, California.

Frank tried to maintain and safeguard the natural historic values of the Parks. He was transferred to the Washington Office as Chief Engineer for sometime.

He retired from the Washington office and returned to his home in Palo Alto, California, where he died after a serious illness. He is survived by his wife Catherine and a daughter.

Dr. Carl Parcher Russell

Carl Russell was born January 18, 1894 in Fall River, Wisconsin. He Graduated from Ripon College in Wisconsin in 1915 and the University of Michigan with a Ph.D. in 1931.

Carl married Betty Westphal June 10, 1922. He served as Lieutenant of Infantry and a teacher in high school in Reno, Nevada, prior to his employment in Yosemite.

On June 11, 1923 he became the Ranger Naturalist in Yosemite National Park and September 1, 1923 succeeded Ansel F. Hall as Park Naturalist. In 1929 he was appointed to the field naturalist position with headquarters in Hall’s Berkeley office. From 1930 through 1934 he spent each summer on special work in Yellowstone Park, and in winters he was assigned to Museum programs in Southwestern National Monument, in Arizona and New Mexico.

In 1935 Carl was transferred from Berkeley office as Chief of the Museum Division in Washington, D.C., then as Chief of Wild Life Division in 1936. Later he was appointed to the Regional Directorship in the Service, Region One with headquarters in Richmond, Virginia and Washington D. C. in 1937 and he became Chief Naturalist on the Directors Staff in 1939.

December 1, 1947 he transferred to Yosemite National Park as Superintendent, his “first love”. November 1, 1952 took leave of the Park service to write the Western Fur Trade History and returned to the service under interpretive planning in the Region Four office at San Francisco in 1954.

During Carl’s tenure as Park Naturalist, the present Yosemite Museum was developed. Curatorial work and the preparation of exhibits were directed by him and he also had charge of the regular programs of “Nature guiding” and lecturing in the Park which was conducted then, as now, by a staff of seasonal ranger naturalists and permanent naturalist personnel.

His direction of museums and natural history interpretations programs were deeply imbued with the fundamental idealism of the National Parks. He possesses a fund of knowledge of the great Park System and appreciation of its scenic and scientific values.

His writings dealing with accounts of the early fur traders of the west is a great contribution to that phase of pioneer history. During Carl’s long tenure of office in the National Park Service he published numerous papers in scientific, historical and recreational journals. In 1931 he authored the book “One Hundred Years in Yosemite”. Another addition of this work was produced by the University of California Press in 1947. The first of his fur trade history books appeared in 1957.

Carl Russell retired from the Park Service in 1957 and now lives in Orinda, California, with his wife Betty.

John C. Preston

John Preston was born December 8, 1897 in Fort Collins, Colorado. He graduated from the University of Montana in 1926, with a B. S. in forestry. He had previously attended the Colorado A. and M. College.

He first joined the National Park Service as a temporary Ranger in Rocky Mountain National Park. In less than three years he rose through the ranks from permanent park ranger and chief ranger, to that of assistant superintendent of Lassen Volcanic National Park in California. In 1941 he was promoted to Superintendent of Mount Rainier National Park, Washington. In 1951 he transferred to Great Smokey Mountains National Park and on November 1, 1952 transferred to Yosemite National Park.

During his tenure at Rocky Mountain National Park he was detailed for nearly a year to the National Park Service headquarters in Washington, D.C., to assist in the direction of the Civilian Conservation Corps and other emergency activities pertinent to the National Park Areas and programs. He served in the Air Corps in World War I.

During John’s period as Superintendent of Yosemite, Mission 66 became active and many other new programs were started. Expansion of Park facilities and new construction took place to take care of the big increase of visitors and there will be more changes constantly taking place in the Park in future years. John has stood up well under this heavy burden of work and we wish him good luck and a well earned retirement before long.

ASSISTANT SUPERINTENDENTS OF YOSEMITE

Ernst P. Leavitt
Ernst entered Park Service as clerk, stenographer and typist in the Yosemity Park Office April 14, 1910.

On July 1, 1918 he was promoted to assistant superintendent in Yosemite and on January 16, 1931 he was transferred to Hawaii National Park as Superintendent where he served for several years. He then transferred to Crater Lake National Park, in Oregon.

Now retired from Crater Lake National Park, Ernst and Mrs. Leavitt are making their home near Central Point, Oregon.

Prior to his employment in Yosemite he worked with the Southern Pacific Railroad office in Stockton, California. Ernst was one of the earliest employees in Yosemite and saw many changes from 1910 when he first entered Yosemite Park.

John Emmert

On June 1, 1915 John was made Chief Electrician, and then furloughed to the U. S. Navy in 1918. He returned to duty April 1, 1919 and on December 16, 1926 was made Assistant Engineer. Then on April 2, 1931 he was promoted to Assistant Superintendent.

On March 1, 1933 John was transferred to Crater Lake National Park as Superintendent and served in several other Parks, Hot Springs, Yellowstone, and Glacier Park before he retired from the Park Service in 1958 and moved to Coeur d’ Lane, Idaho.

John B. Wosky

John entered Yosemite National Park February 1, 1935. He was appointed Assistant Superintendent and on March 29, 1952 was transferred to Crater Lake National Park as Superintendent. A few years later he transferred to the Hawaii National Park. In 1959 he came back to the National Park office, Region Four, in San Francisco, California.

Harthon Bill

Harthon was appointed Assistant Superintendent in Yosemite National Park March 30, 1952. On September 25, 1955 he was transferred to Santa Fe, New Mexico, as Assistant Regional Director.

March 1960 he transferred to Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming as Park Superintendent.

Keith Neilson

Keith transferred from the National Park Service Office in Washington D. C. October 23, 1955 when he became Assistant Superintendent in Yosemite National Park and remains so up to this writing.

PARK NATURALISTS OF YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

Ansel F. Hall

Ansel was born May 6, 1894 in Oakland, California He graduated from the University of California with a BS degree in 1917 as a Naturalist and Forester. He married June Alexander of Berkeley, January 12, 1923 His first job in Yosemite was information ranger. July 1, 1921 to August 31, 1923 he served as Park Naturalist.

September 1, 1923 he took a leave of absence for special studies in Europe. On his return he was promoted to Chief Naturalist of the National Park Service from 1923 to 1930. He accomplished many original things in the field of Education and Museum activities. During the winter of 1919-1920 Hall personally constructed a large scale relief model of Yosemite Valley. During subsequent years this has been followed by intensive development of this type of work at western educational headquarters, especially for geology lectures and display in museum.

The first Park Wild Flower Gardens were developed under Hall’s direction in Yosemite, Sequoia, Crater Lake and Yellowstone in 1929, and at Grand Canyon in 1930.

He took a leading role in the training of personnel., establishment of the Yosemite Museum Association, the Natural History Association which was established in 1920. Other Naturalists followed through with the basic ideas and plans he proposed.

Ansel resigned from the National Park Service in April 1937 and took over the Concessionaire business in Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado. He spends much of his time there in summer and in winter he returns to his home at Denver, Colorado.

He is author of numerous books on education pertaining to park lectures, travel and science.

Dr. Harold C. Bryant

Harold graduated from Pomona College in 1908 and served for quite a number of years at the University of California, as an economic ornithologist, and also with the California Fish and Game Commission.

In 1920 he layed the foundation for the program of the Branch of Natural History in Yosemite. Bryant was assisted on this educational work program by C. M. Goethe and Loye Holmes Miller. In 1921 the Nature Guide service started and in 1925 the Yosemite Field School of Natural History was established to train men to serve as naturalists.

Bryant served each summer as Seasonal Naturalist until July 1, 1930 when he was transferred to the Washington D. C. office to head the new branch on Educational Policy and Development as director of education and research for the National Park Service. In 1939 he was placed in charge of a Public Works Program in Sequoia National Park.

Dr. Bryant was transferred to Grand Canyon National Park, as Superintendent in 1941 and retired in 1954. Bryant and his wife now live in Orinda, California.

Dr. Loye Holmes Miller

From June 16, 1920 to July 15, 1920 and from June 16, 1921 to July 31, 1921 Miller was temporary naturalist assigned to the Yosemite National Park. In 1920 Stephen T. Mather, Director of Park Service, supported the Nature Teaching in Yosemite and Dr. Loye Holmes Miller and Dr. Bryant were employed to do the work of laying the foundation of the Branch of Natural History.

Dr. Miller’s first experience in the Valley was a six week period in the summer of 1917 when he and Professor M. L. Macellan held a summer school for public school teachers. The work consisted of lectures and field trips about the Valley Floor and the trails to the rim. In 1919 he did similar work at Lake Tahoe. His work as an officer at the University took up most of his time, so he withdrew and turned over his part of the work to Dr. Bryant.

Enid Michael

June 28, 1921 Enid was employed as seasonal Ranger Naturalist to assist Dr. Bryant. Enid became a member of the Museum staff in 1942.

Enid assisted with Nature Field Trips, specializing in Botany. A long time resident of Yosemite, [s]he carried on extensive field studies, and published articles about the flora of the park. Much can be said of the important work Enid did in the park.

Charles A. Harwell

Charles became Park Naturalist of Yosemite National Park in 1929. He was very popular, and active in the naturalist activities, including the Museum programs and in directing the Yosemite School of Field Natural History. He worked diligently with local Indians in the Valley, trying to interest them in their original tribal customs, dances and basket work.

Harwell will be remembered by many for his unusual whistling and bird calling ability. He resigned in 1940 to accept a position with the National Audubon Society. He has now retired and lives in Fresno, California.
C. Frank Brockman

On March 27, 1941 Frank was appointed Park Naturalist of Yosemite National Park. He published a number of articles and letters on the scientific and historical aspect of Yosemite. Frank made several extensive field trips into the high country of the Park. Many of them were studies and surveys in connection with land acquisition.

On July 19, 1946 Brockman resigned from the Park Service to take a place on the faculty of the University of Washington.

George M. Wright

George was appointed temporary ranger November 15, 1927 and in 1928 was advanced to Assistant Park Naturalist. On July 2, 1929 he was transferred to Berkeley and later to the Washington, D.C., Park Service Office. George was financially independent and gave freely of his money to the betterment of the Service. His unquestionable ability and enthusiasm marked him for a high place in the Park Service.

In 1929 Wright was transferred to a field job to organize a central unit of wild life investigators and to survey the wild life problems of the National Park Service. Joseph S. Dixon and Ben W. Thompson were employed by Wright, to assist him in this work. They worked out of Berkeley, California and the Washington D. C. Park Service Office.

Unfortunately the service lost this valuable career man for Wright was killed in an automobile accident at the age of thirty two.

Dr. Carl Sharsmith

Carl was seasonal Ranger Naturalist for many years in the Yosemite National Park. It is only fitting I should praise this man’s record of outstanding duty. It was my privilege to have been associated with Carl for many summers in the Tuolumne Meadows District.

In the presentation of an award to Carl, Superintendent Preston made the following statement regarding Dr. Sharesmith’s meritorious service in Yosemite: “In his Citation from the Secretary of the Interior, Carl in some 25 summers of duty has been an inspiration to younger men, in the National Park Service, both permanent and seasonal. His comprehension of the aims and ideals of the Service is combined with an ability to impart this to others, both visitors and co-workers. Without reservation we can say, that the interpretive programs, nature walks, hikes and camp fires conducted by this Ranger Naturalist could be cited as an example of the ideals for which the Service should strive. At least two generations of park visitors at Tuolumne Meadows have enjoyed the friendly teaching of an outstanding educator and a great Naturalist”.

Donald McHenry

Donald was appointed Park Naturalist of Yosemite National Park, January 9, 1947. Prior to this appointment he had been at the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona and in the Washington office of the Naturalist Division. He entered the Government Service in 1919.

Mr. McHenry, an accomplished musician, contributed freely of his time and talent to all musical programs. He retired from the Park Service March 31, 1956.

Douglass H. Hubbard

Douglass was appointed Park Naturalist in Yosemite National Park in 1956. He is a native Californian and received his AB degree in zoology from the University of California in 1940. He went from there to Texas A and M College where he received his MS degree in 1942.

Doug worked as a patrol inspector with the U. S. Border patrol from 1941 to 1944. He was a Naval officer on a destroyer escort in the Pacific from 1944 to 1946.

He was in the Yosemite Field School class of 1940. In 1937 was employed in Yosemite as museum assistant. In 1947-1948 he was Naturalist in Hawaii National Park.

Doug has been Park Naturalist of Yosemite National Park since 1956 and is forwarding the program of restoring the Pioneer Center in Wawona.

Chapter XXIV

PART IV—THE SECOND DECADE—A NEW ERA—
INCREASED USE AND EXPANSION

The decade of 1916-1926 was one of slow but steady progress. The mounted ranger changed to automobile transportation and some modern equipment was introduced each succeeding year. The dirt roads gradually were transformed to modem highways and traffic moved the year ’round.

Now we have come to a new era. The steady increase of visitors to the Park required a long range program to provide the facilities necessary and the maintenance of them.

The protection of the Park has become more of a problem each year. More rangers were needed as well as other personnel, so the permanent and seasonal help has been increased from year to year.

With the increased technical aspect of the work professional men are entering the Service. They must also have certain basic qualities to measure up to ranger standard. These qualities include a sterling character, a distinctive personality, and an innate love of people. It takes unusual men to make the grade and qualify as rangers.

Park personnel come in contact with thousands of visitors each year but it is the rangers who are best known for they work more closely with the visitors than any other government agency.

The early guardians of the Park worked under the most difficult conditions but made a wonderful contribution in protecting our heritage. May the men that follow continue the ideals and policies that have been handed down by the National Park Service.

The following list of permanent park rangers are from the Park service records. These permanent rangers entered the Service from 1927 on in the second decade of the Park service.

August W. Flory—Born November 12, 1895, in Valley Falls, Kansas. May 1 1927, Park Ranger. May 31, 1929, Resigned.

William C. Godfrey—Born June 8, 1890, in Armsby, Pennsylvania. November 1, 1927, Park Ranger. May, 1929 transferred to Crater Lake National Park as Chief Ranger. November 18, 1930, died from exposure while on patrol trip.

Elwyn M. Heller—Born September 2, 1902, in San Diego, California. May 19, 1928, Seasonal Ranger. Served each summer (with exception of two) to the present time. Last five years on special duty as co-ordinator in handling complaints.

Henry R. During—Born May 31, 1907, in San Francisco, California. June 20, 1928, Park Ranger. December 22, 1942, furlough to U. S. Army. February 1, 1946, returned to Yosemite. September 24, 1955, transferred to Rocky Mt. National Park as Chief Ranger. 1959, transferred to Jefferson National Expansion Memorial.

Arthur Holmes—Born December 15, 1904 in San Diego, California. June 17, 1928, Park Ranger. July 2, 1930 transferred to Lassen Volcanic National Park as Chief Ranger. October 19, 1942, furlough to U. S. Army. May 16, 1946 to Yosemite. October 2, 1953, District Ranger. June 2, 1956, transferred to Grand Coulee National Recreational Area as Chief Ranger.

Early U. Homuth—1928 Ranger Naturalist in Crater Lake National Park. 1932-1934, Ranger in Rainier National Park. 1945, Ranger in Yosemite up to 1959, when he retired. [Editor’s note: the correct spelling is Earl U. Homuth—dea.]

Ralph H. Anderson—Born September 2, 1900, in Chillicothe, Ohio. June 1, 1929, Ranger, Yosemite. April 1, 1932, Information and Photography. August 10, 1951, Administrative Assistant. January 18, 1953, transferred to Washington D. C. Park Service Office, Publicity and Information Division.

Vernon Lowery—Born January 17, 1905. 1929 to 193 1, Ranger, Yosemite. 1932, Ranger in Hawaii National Park. 1934, transferred to Yosemite. May 6, 1942, Resigned.

Oscar F. Irwin—Born August 25, 1889, in Denlow, Missouri. July 4, 1929, Park Ranger. November 19, 1935, resigned on account of ill health.

Emil F. Ernst—Born January 24, 1904. June 14, 1929, Park Ranger, April 1, 1933, Ranger Forester. December 4, 1941, to the U. S. Army until January 14, 1944. Returned to Yosemite as Forester. July 1, 1954, Park Forester, Yosemite.. November 4, 1957 transferred to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, to Region Five Office on special assignment. 1958, Retired.

J. Barton Herschler—Born March 21, 1897 in Ashland, Ohio. May 6, 1929 Park Ranger Yosemite. 1938 transferred to Rocky Mt. National Park as Chief Ranger. 1955 transferred to Millerton Lake Recreation Area as Superintendent. 1957 to Saguaro National Monument in Arizona as Superintendent. 1958 Retired.

Gerald E. Mernin—Born February 7, 1907 in Stockton, California. 1929 to 1932 Seasonal Ranger in Yosemite. 1933 Park Ranger. February 11, 1935 transferred to State Hwy. Patrol. August 6, 1935 re-instated as Park Ranger in Yosemite. January 17, 1944 to January 1, 1946 to U.S. Navy. 1946 District Ranger. 1947 transferred to Blue Ridge Parkway as Chief Ranger. 1952 to Crater Lake National Park as Superintendent. 1960 in Region Four Office, Plans and Construction.

Frank R. Givens—Born October 21, 1904 in Roff, Oklahoma. 1930 Park Ranger Yosemite. February 9, 1944 to May 30, 1944 Joshua Tree National Monument, in charge. 1944 Ranger Yosemite. July 4, 1945 to Pinacles National Park as Superintendent. Then to Acadia National Park in Maine as Superintendent. Now in Region Four Park Service Office Ranger Management.

Floyd A. McKim—Born July 10, 1904 in Lansing, Michigan. May 27, 1930 Seasonal Ranger. 1933-1934 Seasonal Ranger Yosemite. June 6, 1938 Park Ranger. March 3, 1943 to Military Service.

Samuel A. King—Born July 19, 1904 in Ashland, Wisconsin. May 18, 19 31 Seasonal Ranger Yosemite. January 7, 1938 Park Ranger. April 8, 1948 transferred to Saguaro National Monument as Superintendent, later to Joshua Tree National Monument, and his last move to Mt. McKinley in Alaska, status now Superintendent.

Odin S. Johnson—Born August 1, 1902 in Eau Clair, Wisconsin. May 5, 1931 Seasonal Ranger Yosemite. August 21, 1941 Park Ranger transferred to Shenandoah National Park. November 2, 1942 transferred to Yosemite. 1951 District Ranger in Yosemite. 1961 intra-park transfer to Wawona District.

Duane D. Jacobs—Born July 28, 1909 in Clark County, South Dakota., April 19, 1932 Season Ranger Yosemite. February 12, 1933 Park Ranger. February 5, 1.941 District Ranger. December 5, 1942 transferred to Joshua Tree National Monument, in charge. November 8, 1943 to U.S. Navy. January 28, 1946 returned to Yosemite. June 4, 1946 to Assistant Chief Ranger in Yosemite. April 4, 1953 transferred to Shenandoah National Park as Chief Ranger. 1955 transferred to Mt. McKinley National Park in Alaska as Asst. Superintendent and later to Superintendent. 1959 transferred to Omaha, Nebraska, Regional Office.

Everett A. Milani—Born April 5, 1908 in Coulterville, California. 1932 to 1936 Seasonal Ranger in Yosemite.

Cliff L. Anderson—Born 1899. 1920 to 1933 Ranger in Yellowstone Park. 1933-1935 Custodian of Colorado National Monument. September 1, 1935 Ranger in Yosemite. November 28, 1942 furloughed to war work. December 8, 1948 returned to Yosemite as Ranger. June 4, 1947 transferred to Muir Woods National Monument. Now Retired.

Lemuel A. Garrison—Born October 1, 1903 in Bella, Iowa. October 17, 1935 Park Ranger Yosemite. November 15, 1939 transferred to Hopewell National Historical Site in Pennsylvania. November 1952 transferred to Big Bend National Park as Superintendent. 1954 transferred to National Park Service Office in Washington, D.C. 1956 transferred to Yellowstone Park in Wyoming as Superintendent up to this writing.

Harold S. Hildreth—March 28, 1938 Park Ranger Yosemite. March 6, 1939 Resigned.

James C. Skakel—Born November 18, 1899 in Tyndall, South Dakota. June 2, 1936 Park Ranger Yosemite. October 27, 1942 furloughed to war work in Navy Air Base.

Kendrick M. Melvet—Born August 19, 1898 in Le Grand, Iowa. March 14, 1937 Park Ranger Yosemite. July 25, 1940 Resigned.

Grant H. Pearson—Born July 13, 1900 in Letchfield, Minnesota. 1926 to 1939 Ranger in McKinley National Park in Alaska. 1939 transferred to Yosemite. June 30, 1942 transferred back to McKinley National Park as Chief Ranger, later promoted to Superintendent. Retired 1956.

Marshall B. Evans—Born June 13, 1907 in Selma, California. 1938-1940 Park Ranger in Sequoia National Park. 1940 Ranger in Yosemite. 1949 District Park Ranger. 1956 to Fire Dispatcher in Yosemite. 1961 transferred to Crater Lake National Park, as Chief Ranger.

John J. Hansen—Born July 13, 1911 in Chicago, Illinois. June 3, 1940 Ranger Yosemite. April 14, 1944 to U.S. Army. Returned to Yosemite October 9, 1944 as Ranger. November 25, 1944 Resigned. To the Post Office service in Yosemite.

Lester M. Moe—Born January 21, 1910 in Portland, Oregon. June 1, 1940 Ranger Yosemite. November 10, 1942 furloughed to Navy Air Service. December 10, 1945 returned to Yosemite as Ranger. July 8, 1946 transferred to Engineer Department in Yosemite. May 10, 1949 transferred to Rainier National Park. November 29, 1949 transferred back to Yosemite to Engineer Department.

George Soine—April 15, 1941—Ranger Yosemite. January 1, 1942 Resigned.

Robert N. McIntyre—Born May 10, 1910 in Ashby, Illinois. 1939-1942 in CCC Forestry work. January 22, 1942 Ranger Yosemite. March 27, 1943 to U.S. Navy. April 15, 1946 returned to Yosemite as Ranger. January 1, 1948 transferred to Naturalist Division in Yosemite. April 22, 1950 transferred to Rainier National Park. May 1, 1953 returned to Yosemite as Administrative Assistant. June 25, 1959 transferred to Yellowstone Park as Park Naturalist.

Donald Eaton—Born February 4, 1897 in Eaton, Colorado. Served as Ranger in Rocky Mt. National Park, Glacier National Park, Pinnacles National Monument, Death Valley National Monument and Petrified Forest in Arizona. February 18, 1944 Ranger in Yosemite. March 27, 1946 Retired.

Oscar A. Sedergren—Born October 20, 1900 in Stephenson, Michigan. 1927 to 1944 Ranger in Mt. Rainier National Park. February 23, 1944 transferred to Yosemite as Chief Ranger. November 29, 1958 transferred to Olympic National Park as Assistant Superintendent.

Wolfrum Joflee—Born March 20, 1916 in Seattle, Washington. April 21, 1944 Ranger Yosemite. November 17, 1945 Resigned.

Louis W. Hallock—Born December 9, 1909 in Bridgeport, Connecticut. Served in Mammoth Cave National Park and Carlsbad National Park as Ranger three years. July 1, 1944 Ranger Yosemite. July 31, 1949 transferred to Crater Lake National Park as Chief Ranger. Later to Death Valley as Chief Ranger. Then to Sequoia National Park. 1960 to Bryce National Park as Superintendent.

J. W. B. Packard—Born August 31, 1922 in Aurealia, Iowa. 1946 to 1949 Seasonal Ranger Yosemite. October 16, 1949 Park Ranger. January 22, 1951 transferred to Crater Lake National Park.

Herbert B. Ewing—Born September 10, 1918, lived in Yosemite all his life. May 1, 1946 Seasonal Ranger. June 7, 1949 Park Ranger. 1957 Acting District Ranger. 1958 to District Park Ranger.

Kenneth R. Ashley—Born December 10, 1920 in Oak Park, Illinois. January 18, 1947 Ranger Yosemite. June 2, 1956 District Park Ranger. June 27, 1958 transferred to Mt. Rainier National Park as Assistant Chief.

F. M. Martischang—Born November 2, 1911 in Pierce, Nebraska. December 16, 1946 Park Ranger Yosemite. May 1, 1956 District Park Ranger. February 1, 1958 transferred to Muir Woods National Monument as Superintendent.

John T. Mullady—Born April 10, 1915. February 12, 1947 Park Ranger Yosemite. June 2, 1956 transferred to Organ Pipe National Monument in Arizona as Chief Ranger. 1960 transferred to Glen Canyon Dam in Arizona.

Glen D. Gallison—Born February 1, 1933. Raised in Yosemite. June 12, 1947 Ranger Yosemite. June 2, 1956 transferred to Naturalist in Yosemite. November 18, 1957 transferred to Olympic National Park as Park Naturalist.

John M. Mahoney—Born November 27, 1915. July 27, 1947 Ranger Yosemite. September 27, 1953 to District Park Ranger. 1954 to Fire Dispatcher. May 15, 1956 transferred to Muir Woods as Superintendent. December 15, 1957 transferred to Park Forester in Yosemite. August 9, 1958 transferred to Forester in Region Four Office in San Francisco, California.

Robert F. Uhte—Born December 28, 1923. June 22, 1948 Seasonal Ranger. April 25, 1950 Park Ranger. May 15, 1951 transferred to Region Four Office in San Francisco, California.

Stanley McComas—Born February 8, 1903 in Anacorter, Washington. Five years at Kings Mt. Military Park. Two years at Shasta Lake Recreation Area. June 28, 1948 Park Ranger Yosemite. July 26, 1951 transferred to Yellowstone Park as Assistant Chief. 1958 transferred to Olympic National Park as Chief Ranger.

Norman B. Herkenham—Born January 1, 1918. June 28, 1948 Ranger Yosemite. April 10, 1950 transferred to Assistant Park Naturalist in Yosemite. February 12, 1955 transferred to Yellowstone Park as Naturalist. 1959 to Park Service Office in Washington, D.C.

Robert H. Sharp—Born March 16, 1923 in Chicago, Illinois. May 28, 1949 Seasonal Ranger Yosemite. August 7, 1949 Park Ranger. December 18, 1951 furlough for medical treatments. Later to Yellowstone Park as Ranger. 1959 to Park Forester in Yosemite.

Thomas R. Tucker—Born October 27, 1922 in San Diego, California. Worked with Blister Rust Control Crews in Yosemite. June 13, 1949 Park Ranger. June 23, 1958 to District Park Ranger Yosemite.

Edward L. Parsegan—Born September 2, 1920 in Hasbrouck, N. J. April 26, 1950 Park Ranger Yosemite. September 5, 1956 transferred to Mt. Rainier National Park.

John A. Townsley—Born April 18, 1927 in Yosemite. May 1, 1950 to 1955 Seasonal Ranger. October 8, 1955 transferred to Hawaii National Park as Park Ranger. October 9, 1957 returned to Yosemite. May 3, 1959 transferred to Oregon Caves National Monument as Managing Assistant. 1960 transferred to Park Service Office in Washington, D.C.

Orthello L. Wallis—Born May 1, 1921. June 25, 1950 Yosemite. January 3, 1954 transferred to Lake Mead Recreation Area, as Naturalist.

John W. Henneberger—Born May 30, 1924 in Chicago, Illinois. June 30, 1951 Ranger Yosemite. March 31, 1956 transferred to Olympic National Park. 1958 transferred to Scotts Bluff National Monument as Superintendent.

Walter H. Gammill—Born October 12, 1906 in Abbeville, La. Started Park Ranger 1931 in Yellowstone Park. October 28, 1951 transferred to Millerton Lake. 1952 transferred to Yosemite District Ranger. 1960 District Ranger Wawona District.

Richard C. McLaren—Born October 4, 1921 in Grand Lake, Colorado. April 8, 1952 Ranger Yosemite. 1960 Ranger in charge at Chinquapin Station. 1961 intra-park transfer to headquarters.

Charles R. Scarbrough—Born June 10, 1905 in Coeur d’ Lane, Idaho. April 24, 1953 to Yosemite from Acadia National Park, Maine, as Assistant Chief Ranger. June 21, 1954, killed by rock slide in Yosemite.

Nelson Murdock—Born in Missouri (he didn’t say when). Six years with Forest Service in Idaho and Missouri 1933-1939. June 1, 1939 Ranger Sequoia National Park. September 12, 1954 transferred to Yosemite, Assistant Chief Ranger. 1960 transferred to Yellowstone Park as Chief Ranger.

James L. McLaughlin—Born March 1, 1921 in Clearfield, Penn. November 10, 1954 Ranger Yosemite. August 30, 1956 to Arch Rock Station. February 26, 1959 to the El Portal Station, Yosemite.

Yosemite Ranger Force—1931

Dan S. Nelson—October 23, 1955 transferred from Yellowstone Park to Yosemite. To Park Fire Chief and Assistant Chief Ranger. 1961 transfer to Glacier National Park as Chief Ranger.

Here ends record of Permanent Park Rangers up to 1956.

I am pleased to mention a few Seasonal Rangers that served many summers in Yosemite National Park. Wayne Westfall, Archie Westfall, John G. Sinclair, Cary T. Jackson, Grover Castor, Francis G. Carl, George W. Steward, James Murray, Clyde Quick and Ralph Jessen. These are considered Old Timers.

REFERENCE
OLD TIMERS AND EARLY PARK EMPLOYEES OF
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

Darl A. Miller—1905 with the U.S. 4th Cavalry as a Packer for the Troops. 1911 Yosemite Park Teamster, Horse Shoer and Blacksmith. 1946 retired.
Chas. V. Ellis—1915 to 1949 Teamster, Truck Driver, Mechanic Foreman. Retired.
Fred Bruschi—1915 to 1930 Park Blacksmith. Retired.
William P. Grenfell—1915 to 1940 Park Foreman and repair Saddler. Retired.
Joseph N. Garbarino—1915-1937 Teamster, charge of Government stock, Retired on disability.
George A. Jeffery—1915 to 1934 Park Laborer, Road Crew Foreman. Retired 1934.
Joseph Jenkins—May 1, 1915 Park Electrician. 1950 transferred to the Regional Office in San Francisco. Retired.
Sam Cookson—1915-1945 Telephone Lineman and Line Foreman.
Albert Kottner—1916 to 1936 Machinist in charge of Machine Shop.
Al Skelton—1916 to 1931 Teamster, Truck Driver, Labor Foreman.
Cliff Murphy—1917 to 1953 Teamster, Truck Driver, Sanitation Foreman.
Walter Gann—1919-1960 still working Telephone Lineman, Electrician Supervisor.
Oliver Guy Taylor—1920 to 1930 Park Engineer. Transferred to a key position in the Washington Office.
Donald Selby—1916 to 1932 Laborer and Janitor in the Museum and Office Building.
William A. Ellis—1924 to 1956 Power-house Operator and Supervisor of Machine Shop. Retired.
Elton Hilton—January 1, 1925 Engineer. Active in the new development of Yosemite. December 1, 1946 transferred to Regional Office in San Francisco as Park Planner, Chief Reservoir Development and Management. Regional Engineer. Retired 1956.
Hiram S. Shilko—1931 Assistant Engineer. 1942 Park Engineer. 1945 transferred to Region Four Office.
Carlton Smith—1931 Draftsman. October 14,1 1942 Military Furlough. October 1, 1943 returned to Yosemite. 1946 Associate Park Engineer. March 3, 1949 Park Engineer. February 27, 1954 retired on disability.
Charles Hill—May 1, 1944 to 1961 Chief Clerk and Administrative Officer.
William H. Breckenkamp—1939 to 1961 Senior stenographer, Senior Clerk, Personnel Clerk.

If I have overlooked any “Old-Timers” or others who deserve mention in this book be assured the oversight was not intentional.

Seventy years have elapsed since Yosemite was created a National Park. The military and the civilian protection and human events that took place in the Park are recorded in this story. Many of these men have come and gone. It is hoped that through their efforts and service others will carry on as in the past. May Yosemite and all other National Parks, Monuments and Areas with their Master Plan, and wealth of inspirational and recreational experiences be preserved long after our generation, so that future generations can come to rest, enjoy and study nature, where the encroachments of man have been limited to the minimum of exploitation.

“There is something in the quiet contemplation of natural scenery, and particularly in magnificent examples of the Creator’s work, that is elevating, refreshing, restful, and inspiring. It exerts its appeal to the best in us; seeing it makes us better men and women, physically and mentally and spiritually.”

REFERENCES

National Park Service, General Office, Yosemite National Park.

Chief Rangers Office, Yosemite National Park.

Museum Research Library, Yosemite National Park.

Yosemite Nature Notes, Yosemite Natural History Association.

Ranger Reports and Files, Yosemite National Park.

Acting Superintendents Reports, War Department.

Dr. Carl P. Russell, One Hundred Years in Yosemite.

Stephen T. Mather and the National Parks. By Hon. Louis C. Crampton.

Evolution of the National Park Ranger Manuscript, by Ranger John Henneburger.

Sierra Club Bulletins, Yosemite Museum.

Celia Crocker Tompson, Lodi, California.

http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/guardians_of_the_yosemite/