Next: Title Page

Yosemite: Where To Go and What Go Do (1888) by George G. MacKenzie

- Cover [image]

- Title Page

- Preface

- Table of Contents

- Map of Yosemite

- Chapter 1. Roads to Yosemite and the Big Trees

- Chapter 2. Notes in General About Yosemite

- Chapter 3. Cataracts of Yosemite

- Chapter 4. Peaks, Points and Domes

- Chapter 5. The High Sierra

- Chapter 6. Wawona

- Chapter 7. The Big Tree Groves

- Chapter 8. Scheme of Tours in And Around the Valley

- Chapter 9. Camping Tours

- Table of Distances

- Maximum Rates for Transportation

- Ads

About the Author

George Gordon MacKenzie was born in January 1, 1849 in New York state to George and Jane (Lyon) MacKenzie who were born in Scotland. In 1886 he relocated to the Sierra Nevada foothills. He published this book under the pseudonym Lewis Stornoway, named after the town of Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, Scotland. MacKenzie also wrote a few articles and letters about Yosemite for Century magazine during 1890-1892. These articles urged reform in park and forest management.

In 1898 he was hired by the General Land Office as one of eleven assistants to two Special Agents appointed to protect Yosemite National Park. The U.S. Calvary, who usually patrolled Yosemite, were recalled during the Spanish American War. The well-armed mounted assistants spent their time expelling sheep hearders, fighting forest fires, and arresting those with firearms. They are considered Yosemite National Parks’s first civilian protection force.

In October 1898 MacKenzie registered to vote in Raymond, Madera Co., California. He lists himself as a newspaperman, 5' 11 1/4", blue eyes, and light brown hair. MacKenzie died October 15, 1922 of a heart attack at the Sacramento Hospital, Sacramento, California (state death certificate 22-043754).

Bibliographical Information

George G. MacKenzie (George Gordon MacKenzie, pseudonym “Lewis Stornoway”) (1849-1922), Yosemite: Where To Go and What Go Do (San Francisco: privately printed by C. A. Murdock, & Co., 1888). Copyright 1888 by Geo. G. MacKenzie. LCCN 01000632. 98 pages. Illustrated. 20 cm. Bound in red cloth-covered board. Library of Congress call number F868.Y6 M2.

Converted to HTML by Dan Anderson, September 2007, from a copy at San Diego Public Library. These files may be used for any non-commercial purpose, provided this notice is left intact.
—Dan Anderson, www.yosemite.ca.us

Next: Title Page

YOSEMITE:
Where to Go and What to Do.

A PLAIN GUIDE TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY, THE HIGH SIERRA AND THE BIG TREES.

BY LEWIS STORNOWAY.

San Francisco:
C. A. Murdock & Co., Printers, 532 Clay Street.
1888.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1888, by
GEO. G. MACKENZIE.
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress,
at Washington.

PREFACE.

This little book is intended to meet an existing demand for a reasonably brief yet comprehensive Guide to the sights of the Yosemite Valley and to the neighboring places of greatest interest. The writer himself has felt the need of such a Guide, and has heard many other people express a similar want Having gained a familiarity with the Valley region during visits running through two seasons, he has attempted to fill the vacancy. It is hoped that the chapters giving a scheme of tours in and around the Valley will be found of especial usefulness in assisting visitors to occupy their time to the best advantage.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

page.

Roads to Yosemite and the Big Trees.

In General

9

Raymond or Berenda Route

10

Milton or Big Oak Flat

10

Calaveras Big Tree Route

11

Madera Route

12

Merced and Coulterville Route

12

Modesto and Coulterville Route

13

Mariposa Route

14

CHAPTER II.

Notes in General About Yosemite.

Location

15

Discovery

15

Early Settlers

15

Names

16

General Character

17

Dimensions

17

Floor of the Valley

17

Rivers and Creeks

18

Mirror Lake

18

Trees

20

Shrubs

20

Flowers and Ferns

21

Wild Animals

22

Birds

22

Game Birds

23

Snakes

23

Fish

24

Hotels and other Buildings

24

Camp Grounds

25

Climate

25

CHAPTER III.

Cataracts of Yosemite.

In General

27

Bridal Veil Fall

27

Ribbon Fall

29

Sentinel Fall

30

Yosemite Fall

30

Royal Arch Fall

33

Tooloolaweack or Illilouette Fall

33

Vernal Fall

34

Nevada Fall

36

Cascade Fall

37

CHAPTER IV.

Peaks, Points and Domes.

In General

39

Inspiration Point

40

El Capitan

40

Cathedral Rocks and Three Graces

41

Cathedral Spires

43

Three Brothers and Eagle Peak

43

Sentinel Rock

44

Sentinel Dome

44

Yosemite Point and Giant’s Thumb

46

Indian Cañon

46

Glacier Point

47

Royal Arches

49

Washington Tower

49

North Dome

49

Half or South Dome

50

Grizzly Peak

53

Cloud’s Rest

53

Mt. Watkins

54

Cap of Liberty

55

CHAPTER V.

The High Sierra.

In General

57

Lake Tenayah

57

Mt. Hoffmann

60

Tuolumne Meadows

62

Soda Springs

64

Mt. Dana

64

Mt. Lyell

67

Cathedral Valley and Peak

67

Little Yosemite

68

Lost Valley

70

CHAPTER VI.

Wawona (the Big Trees, Chilnooalna Falls, Signal Peak, etc.)

71

CHAPTER VII.

The Big Tree Groves.

The Big Trees in General

73

The Mariposa Grove

75

The Calaveras Grove

77

The Tuolumne Grove

78

The Merced Grove

79

CHAPTER VIII.

Scheme of Tours in and Around the Valley.

General remarks

81

Tours for one afternoon

81

Tours for one day and a half

85

Tours for two clays and a half

86

Tours for three clays and a half

88

Tours for four days and a half

90

Tours for five days and a half

92

Tours for six days and a half

93

CHAPTER IX.

Camping Tours.

General remarks

94

To Mount Dana

94

To Mount Lyell

94

Grand Tour of the High Sierra (ten days)

95

Table of Distances

96

Prices for Horses and Carriages.

97

[click to enlarge]
MAP OF YOSEMITE.

YOSEMITE.

CHAPTER I.

Roads to Yosemite and the Big Trees.

Theseason of travel for sight-seers over the roads to Yosemite generally begins about the first of April, and closes about the first of November. On some of the higher parts of the mountains which the roads traverse snow falls to a depth of several feet, making the roads impassable by horses during the winter months. On the stage routes forces of men are usually employed to clear passages along stretches of road where the snow lies latest in the year.

For information concerning the opening and close of the season, and for time-tables and rates of fare, it will be necessary to consult the agents or the advertisements of the several railway and stage companies, as their arrangements in those respects are subject to alteration.

There are three regular stage routes to the Yosemite Valley, and as many additional roads, of which the traveler by private conveyance may take his choice. Each of these roads has attractions of its own, besides those which are to be found on all alike. Visitors sometimes approach the Valley by one road and leave it by another. When this is done, the road by which the departure is made is almost invariably pronounced to be inferior in interest to that by which the traveler arrived. An explanation of this circumstance is found in the fact that to anybody fresh from the incomparable magnificence of the Yosemite all the rest of the world is apt to appear rather unsatisfactory and insignificant. The very scenery which, while en route to Yosemite, has filled the spectator with enthusiastic delight, may, when one is returning, fail to cause even an ordinary sense of pleasure.

The Raymond Route.—(Sometimes called the Berenda route.) Raymond is the terminus of the Yosemite branch of the Southern Pacific railway. It is distant from San Francisco 200 miles by rail, and twenty-two miles from Berenda, where the branch diverges from the main line of railway.

From Raymond to the Yosemite Valley, the distances to and between consecutive points, are as follows:

Miles.

Miles.

Grub Gulch

14

14

Grant’s Sulphur Springs

11

25

Wawona (Big Tree Station)

11

36

Eleven-Mile Station

10.76

46.76

Inspiration Point (first general view of Valley)

8.95

55.71

El Capitan Bridge (in Valley)

3.56

59.27

Yosemite Village

3.61

62.88

This road is a regular stage route, stages leaving Raymond daily during the season. At Raymond, Grant’s Springs and Wawona are hotels, where stage passengers take meals.

In going to and returning from Yosemite, passengers generally remain over night at Wawona, visiting the Mariposa Big Trees during the afternoon of the day on which they return from the Valley. (See Wawona, Chap. VI.)

The distance to and around the Big Tree Grove, and back to Wawona, is seventeen miles.

The Milton or Big Oak Flat Route.—This regular stage route begins at Milton, the terminus of the Stockton and Copperopolis railway. Milton is by rail distant from San Francisco 133 miles, and thirty miles from Stockton, where the S. & C. railway branches off from the Central Pacific.

From Milton to the Yosemite Valley, the distances are as follows:

Miles.

Miles.

Reservoir House

6.13

6.13

Copperopolis

8.70

14.83

Bridge over Stanislaus River

7.00

21.83

Goodwin’s Table Mountain Pass

3.50

25.33

Chinese Camp

3.50

28.83

Moffitt’s Bridge, Tuolumne River

4.18

33.01

Priests’ Hotel

7.93

40.94

Big Oak Flat

1.07

42.01

Groveland

2.24

44.25

Garrote

2.15

46.40

Sprague’s Ranch

4.97

51.37

Hamilton’s

3.98

55.35

Colfax Spring

2.55

57.90

Hardin’s Ranch

5.32

63.22

Upper Bridge, South Fork Tuolumne River

1.37

64.59

Crocker’s

3.34

67.93

Hodgdon’s Ranch

2.00

69.93

Tuolumne Big Tree Grove

4.44

74.37

Crane Flat

1.00

75.37

Tamarack Flat

5.07

80.44

Junction with Coulterville Road (in Valley)

7.18

87.62

Yosemite Village

3.66

91.28

This route runs through the Tuolumne Big Tree Grove, numbering about thirty trees.

Priests’ Hotel and Chinese Camp are places where passengers may remain over night. Meals are obtainable at nearly all the other places named.

Calaveras Big Tree Route.—This road, like the preceding, is a regular stage route, and begins at Milton. The distances to the Valley and points by the way are as follows:

Miles.

Miles.

Reservoir House

6.13

6.13

Gibson’s Station

10.87

17.00

Altaville

5.50

22.50

Murphy’s

7.50

30.00

Half Way House

8.11

38.11

Calaveras Big Tree Grove Hotel

7.31

52.73

Half Way House, returning

7.31

52.73

Murphy’s

8.11

60.84

Vallecito

4.16

65.00

Trail to Natural Bridge

3.32

68.32

Ferry over Stanislaus River

2.27

73.76

Columbia

1.15

74.91

Sonora

4.17

79.08

Chinese Camp

11.00

90.08

To Yosemite Village, as in preceding table

62.45

152.53

The Madera Route.—This is not a stage route through to the Valley, stages running only as far as Fresno Flats. The road begins at Madera, a town on the Southern Pacific railway,. 185 miles distant from San Francisco.

From Madera to Yosemite, the distances are as follows:

Miles.

Miles.

Mudgett’s Ranch

18.50

18.50

Green’s Ranch

6.50

25.00

Coarse Gold (Krohn’s Hotel)

13.50

38.50

Fresno Flats

6.50

45.00

Bufford’s

5.00

50.00

Fish Camp Hotel

12.00

62.00

Forks of road to Mariposa Big Trees

2.92

64.92

Wawona

3.47

68.39

Eleven-Mile Station

10.76

79.15

Inspiration Point (first general view of Valley)-

8.95

88.10

El Capitan Bridge

3.56

91.66

Yosemite Village

3.61

95.27

From the forks of the road to the Big Tree Grove, the distance to and around the grove and back to the main road is about eleven miles. The trip from Fish Camp to the Big Trees and return, or to the Big Trees and thence to Wawona, can be made comfortably in a day, allowing plenty of time for an inspection of the trees.

On this road there is no toll to pay until coming to Wawona. Between Wawona and the Valley the tolls are as follows:

Going.

Returning.

Passenger teams, each animal

$1.25

65c.

Horse and rider

.90

65c.

Merced and Coulterville Route.— This also is a road for private conveyances.

From Merced, on the Southern Pacific railway, and distant 152 miles from San Francisco, the distances to the Valley are as follows:

Miles.

Miles.

Halfway House

6.35

6.35

Snelling

12.60

18.95

Merced Falls

4.58

23.53

Junction Station

5.81

29.34

Sebright’s

5.53

34.87

Herbeck’s

5.74

40.61

Coulterville

5.57

46.18

Dudley’s Hotel

7.58

53.76

Bower Cave

4.69

58.45

Wenger’s

3.23

61.68

Hazel Green

9.51

71.19

Forks of road to Crane Flat

0.36

71.55

Merced Grove Big Trees

2.80

74.35

Big Meadows

8.45

82.80

Junction with Merced River trail

4.59

87.39

Junction with Big Oak Flat road

2.61

90.00

Yosemite Village

3.66

93.66

This route passes directly by the Merced Grove of Big Trees, about fifty in number.

At Bower Cave the public road ends, and tolls are collected for travel on the continuation of the road, the following being the rates charged:

Going.

Returning.

Each passenger in vehicle

$1.00

$1.00

Horse and rider

1.00

1.00

Modesto and Coulterville Route.—Modesto, where this route begins, is on the Southern Pacific railway, and 114 miles from San Francisco.

The distances between Modesto and the Valley are nearly as follows:

Miles.

Miles.

Waterford

12.00

12.00

Horr’s Ranch

5.00

20.00

La Grange

5.00

28.00

Sebright’s

10.00

38.00

Coulterville

11.31

49.31

From Coulterville the same road is followed as in the table preceding.

The Mariposa Route.—This line of travel may also be taken from Merced, whence the distances to the Valley are as follows:

Miles.

Miles.

Halfway House

6.35

6.35

Junction with Snelling Road

0.87

7.22

Lava Bed Station

7.26

14.48

Hornitos

7.98

22.46

Junction Indian Gulch Road

1.52

23.98

Corbett’s Ranch

4.35

28.33

Toll House

1.81

30.14

Toll House

2.83

32.97

Princeton

2.65

35.62

Lewis’ Ranch

3.54

39.16

Mariposa

1.70

40.86

Mormon Bar

1.89

42.75

Sebastopol Flat

2.76

45.51

Thompson’s

3.51

49.02

Cold Spring

4.36

57.31

Summit Chowchilla Mountain

5.24

62.55

Wawona

4.50

67.05

Yosemite Village, as in preceding tables

26.88

93.93

CHAPTER II.

Notes in General About Yosemite.

Location.—The Yosemite Valley lies in the County of Mariposa (Spanish word for Butterfly), in the east central part of California. Its situation is a little south of east from San Francisco. It is well up on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains, the crest of that range being from twenty-five to thirty miles eastward from the Valley. The level of the Valley is a trifle less than 4000 feet above the sea.

Discovery.—As far as is known by authentic evidence the Valley was first seen by white men on the 5th or 6th day of May, 1851. [Editor’s note: The correct date is March 25, 1851 (from a diary entry of Pvt. Robert Eccleston). The dates in May refer to a second expedition to Yosemite Valley.—dea.] ] The discoverers were a party of volunteer soldiers, led by a Major Jas. D. Savage. This force was pursuing a band of hostile Indians and came to the edge of the Valley, on its southern side near the lower end, quite unexpectedly. It appears, however, that some indistinct intimation of a strange and deep cañon in the mountains had previously been given by Indians in conversation with white men. The discovery attracted little attention at the time, the members of the military force seeming not to have fully appreciated the rare magnificence on which they had fallen. Some account of the grandeur of the scenery did nevertheless go abroad, and small parties of sight-seers found their way into the Valley from that time forward.

Early Settlers.—The regular settlement of the Valley began in 1857, when two men—S. M. Cunningham, who is now keeper of the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, and another named Beardsley—put up a rough building to serve for a trading post and hotel. Other hotel buildings followed as travel increased. The original house was taken apart and removed long ago.

The first permanent settler in the Valley was Jas. C. Lamon. At least he was the first person to remain in the Valley throughout the year. An old cabin that was occupied by him still stands in the upper part of the Valley under Glacier Point, and there is near by a fine apple orchard that was planted by Lamon. He died in 1875, and was buried not far from the foot of the Yosemite Fall, a granite monument marking the grave.

[click to enlarge]

Names.—The name Yosemite means a large grizzly bear. [Editor’s note: it means “they are killers.” For the correct origin of the word Yosemite see “Origin of the Word Yosemite.”—dea.] It was the name of the tribe of Indians who occupied the Valley when discovered. About a dozen of them still live there. The name was suggested by Dr. L. H. Bunnell, who was a member of the force that made the discovery. The name is pronounced in four syllables (Yo-sem-i-te) with the accent on the second syllable. The Indian name for the Valley was Ahwahnee. Nearly all the more noticeable places in the Valley had names given to them by the Indians, but the right sound and the meaning of most of these names have become matters of guess-work or imagination. Few of them are used in this book, as they merely tend to confusion.

General Character.—The Valley is a chasm or gorge—what the Spanish-Americans would call a cañon—of extraordinary depth, and with walls that approach a vertical formation to a singular degree. The average height of the walls is little less than 3000 feet, while in many places they exceed that figure by several hundred feet, and one part (the Half Dome) rises to an elevation of nearly 5000 feet. The sides of the Valley are not regularly continuous. There are bold, projecting angles and deep gaps through which torrents of water descend to the level of the Valley’s floor.

Dimensions.—In length the space reckoned as the Valley proper is something over seven miles. The width of the nearly level floor varies from less than a quarter of a mile to three-quarters of a mile. At the bottom of the walls there are heaps of fragmentary rock. Measuring the distances between the walls above this debris or talus, the Valley is in places about two miles wide and from that down to half a mile. The official measurements of the Valley’s area give a sum of 8480 acres. Of these 3109 acres are given as meadow land.

Floor of the Valley.—This consists of alternate stretches of open meadow and woodland. It is said that when the Valley was first visited by white men the open space was much greater than it now is. The Indians then made a practice of burning all young vegetable growth in order to facilitate their hunting. Since the occupation by whites the fires have been stopped, and in parts of the Valley dense thickets of young pines and other trees have sprung up. Formerly the floor of the Valley was open for all persons to go and come in whatever course they might choose. Of late years a number of enclosures for pastures have been made. One of these is set apart for the free use of horses belonging to camping parties. A well-constructed road runs around the full extent of the floor, and branches lead to Mirror Lake and the Cascade Falls. Altogether the road covers twenty-one miles.

Rivers and Creeks.—The Valley is traversed from end to end (its general trend being from northeast to southwest) by the Merced River—River of Mercy. This stream has its head-source in the snows of Mount Lyell, some thirty-five miles from the Valley. It empties into the San Joaquin river at a point in the northern part of the great plains of that name.

The Merced is joined at the upper end of the Valley by Tenayah Creek, which comes down from Tenayah Lake, about ten miles away by the course of the stream. This creek supplies the water of Mirror Lake and then passes on to its union with the Merced.

The Yosemite Creek, the Bridal Veil Creek, and several streams also empty into the Merced in the Valley. Most of them, however, have a flow of water during but a few months in the year, when the snows of the high Sierra are melting.

Mirror Lake.—This little body of water has a world-wide celebrity. Simply as a lake, nevertheless, it is not peculiarly interesting. In the fall of the year it becomes a mere pond of dark water. Earlier in the season, when it is more expansive and deeper, it has great attractiveness, due to its surroundings. Its situation is in the Tenayah Cañon, here formed by the vertical face of the great Half Dome and by the base of the North Dome on the opposite side. Looking higher up the cañon, Cloud’s Rest shows itself at the right hand and Mt. Watkins at the left. When the surface of Mirror Lake is quite still, the reflections of the overlooking heights are very distinct. This effect is at its best in ‘the morning before the day breeze has arisen, and travelers usually time their visits accordingly. The place, however, is one at which many days may be passed pleasurably by people prolonging their sojourn in the Valley. The echoes from the prodigious cliffs here are wonderfully clear and numerous.

[click to enlarge]
MIRROR LAKE.

Trees.—Scattered over the floor of the Valley is an abundant growth of large and handsome oak, pine and other trees. There is a quite common impression among people who have not visited the Valley that it contains what are by usage known as Big Trees. There is, in fact, no representative of that kind (Sequoia gigantea) in the Valley. The location of the Big Trees is mentioned elsewhere. The largest tree in the Valley is said to be a red spruce (Abies Douglasii) which stands near the southern end of the Tenayah bridge, and which measures twenty-eight feet in circumference at the base.

The more numerous trees in the Valley are the following: Black Oak (Quercus Kelloggii), Live Oak (Quercus Chrysolepis), Dwarf Oak (Quercus Dumosa), Sugar Pine (Pines Lambertiana), Yellow Pines (P. Jeffreyi and P. Ponderosa), Douglas Spruce (Abies Douglasii), Silver Firs (A. Concolor, A. Grandis and A. Nobilis), Red Cedar (Libocedrus Decurrens), Rock Maple (Acer Macrophyllum), Quaking Aspen (Populus Tremuliodes), Balm of Gilead (Polulus Balsamifera), Alder (Alnus Veridis), Dogwood, (Cornus Nuttallii), Laurel (Umbellularia Californica), California Nutmeg (Torreya Californica.) There are specimens of Tamarack (P. Contorta) and of Juniper (Juniperus Occidentalis) in places overlooking the Valley.

Shrubs.—There is a large variety in the greater and smaller bush growth, but the following are the more common representatives of that class: Azalea (A. Occidentalis), California Lilac (Ceanothus Integerrimus), Manzanita (Arctostaphylos Glauca)—the latter grows all over the mountains, and is very noticeable on account of its oddly contorted red stems and olive-green leaves; Wild Coffee (Rhamnus Californica), Elderberry (Sanbucus Glauca), Chokecherry (Prunus Demissa), Serviceberry (Amelonchier Alnifolia), Blackberry (Rubus Ursinus), Raspberry (Rubus Cacodermis), Thimbleberry (Rubus Nutkamus), Gooseberry (Ribes Meziessii), Currant (Ribes Sanguineum), Spirea Discolor, Spice plant, (Calycanthes Occidentalis,) Wild Rose (Rosa Californica), Buckeye (Aesculus Californica.) The latter, like the Manzanita, is characteristic of California, and appears on all the roads from the foothills to the Valley. In the spring and early summer it is very observable, the white stems, broad and brilliant leaves, and long plumes of white blossoms, making an attractive combination of colors.

There are a few grapevines in the Valley, and in one place a cat-tail swamp—near the Black Spring on the road to Cascade Falls.

Flowers and Ferns.—A lady who passed a summer in the Valley kindly furnished the writer with the following list of flowering plants. It does not by any means comprise the names of all the flowers to be found there, but will give a good idea of their great variety.

Amsinckia Spectabilis—Wheat Thief.

Hosackia Crassifolia.

Aquilegia Truncata—Columbine.

Heliotropium Curassavictum.

Anterrhinum Vagans—Snapdragon.

Iris Macrosephon.

Anterrhinum Glandlosum—Snapdragon.

Lupinus Microcarpus—Lupin.

Apocynum Cannabinum—Indian Hemp.

Lupinus Nanus—Lupin.

Asclepias Fascicular—Milk Weed.

Lupinus Stiveri—Lupin.

Asarum Candatum—Ginger.

Lupinus Albicaulis—Lupin.

Brunella Vulgaris—Self Heal.

Lilium Pardalinum—Tiger Lily.

Brassica Campestris—Mustard.

Lilum Parvum.

Brodiaea Laxa

Conicera Hispidula—Honeysuckle.

Brodiaea Gracilis.

Conicera Involucrata—Honeysuckle.

Clarkia Elegans.

Mimulus Tricolor—Monkey Flower.

Clarkia Rhomboidea.

Mimulus Douglasii—Monkey Flower.

Claytonia Perfoliata—Indian Lettuce.

Mimulus Cardinalis—Monkey Flower.

Calochortus Venustus—Mariposa Lily.

Mimulus Lutens—Monkey Flower.

Collinsia Bicolor.

Mimulus Moschatus—Musk Flower.

Collinsia Tinctaria.

Mentha Canadensis—Mint.

Collinsia Parviflora.

Monardella Undulata.

Castilleia Parviflora—Painted Cup.

Nemophila Insignis—Baby Eyes.

Castilleia Parviflora—Prince’s Plume.

Nuphar Polysepalum—Yellow Pond Lily.

Convolvulus Cal.—Creeping Morning Glory.

Oenothera Biennis—Evening Primrose.

Oxalis Corniculata—Yellow Sorrel.

Coreopsis.

Penstemon Laetus—Beardtongue.

Capsella Divaricata—Shepherd’s Purse.

Pyrolo Picta.

Chimaphila Umbellata—Pipsissewa.

Pterosphora Andromeda.

Cuscata—Dodder.

Ranunculus Californica—Buttercup.

Dodecatheon Meadia—Shooting Star.

Ranunculus Alismaefolius.

Dicentra Formosa—Bleeding Heart.

Sarcodes Sanguinea—Snow Plant.

Delphinum Simplex—Larkspur.

Spraguea Umbellata—Pussy’s Paws.

Delphinum Cal.—Larkspur.

Symphoricarpus Racemosus—Snowberry.

Delphinum Decarum—Larkspur.

Scutellaria—Skullcap.

Eritrichium—White Forget-me-not.

Stachys Chamissonis.

Eryodictyon Glutinosum—Mountiain Balm.

Trifolium Ciliatum—Clover.

Erodium—Alfilerilla, Pin Clover.

Trifolium Videntatum—Clover.

Frogaria Californica—Strawberry.

Trifolium Microcephalium—Clover.

Godetia Lepida, G. Hispadula, G. Quodrivulnara.

Viola Canina—Blue Violet.

Viola Aurea—White Violet.

Gilia Biniflora, G. Pusilla, G. Californica, G. Aurea, G. Dichtoma.

Vicia Gigantea—Vetch.

Vicia Exigua—Tare.

Geranium Incisum—Goldenrod.

Yarrow.

Graphalium—Immortel.

Zauschneria Californica—Fuchsia.

The many kinds of ferns to be found in the Valley, or near to it, form one of the minor charms of the place. The common brake (Peris Aquilina) grows very abundantly over most parts of the floor, and attains a height of several feet. In the autumn it assumes a richly varied coloring. The following is a list of the fern family of the Valley, a few names being on the authority of Mr. J. W. Hutchings’ “In the Heart of the Sierras.”

Adiantum Capillus-Verneris—Venus Hair.

Pellaea Andomedaefolia—Heather Leaved Brake.

Adiantum Emarginatum—California Maiden Hair.

Pellaea Wrightiana—Wright Cliff Brake.

Adiantum Pedatum—Foot-stalked Maiden Hair.

Pellaea Brachyptera—Short-winged Cliff Brake.

Aspidium Aculeatum—Sharp-leaved Shield.

Pellaea Ornithopus—Bird’s Foot Cliff Brake

Aspidium Aculeatum Scopulorum—Sierra Shield.

Pellaea Densa—Dwarf Cliff Brake.

Aspidium Munitum—Armed Shield.

Pellaea Bridgessi—Bridge’s Cliff Brake.

Aspidium Munitum Nudatum—Naked Shield.

Pteris Aquilina—Common Brake.

Aspidium Munitum Imbricans—Over-lapped Shield.

Phegopteris Alpestris—Alpine Beech.

Asplenium Filix faemina—Lady Fern.

Polypodium Vulgare—Common Poly. pody.

Cryptogramme Acrostichoides—Rock Brake.

Polypodium Cal.—Cal. Polypody.

Cheilanthes Californica—Cal. Lip.

Woodsia Oregana—Oregon Woodsia.

Cheilanthes Gracillima—Graceful Lip.

Woodsia Scopulina—Hairy Woodsia.

Cheilanthes Myriophilla—Many-leaved.

Woodwardia Radicans—Greek Chain.

Cystopteris Fragilis—Fragile.

Botrychium Simplex—Simple Grape.

Gymnogramme Triangularis—Golden Back.

Botrychium Ternatum Australe—Three-parted Grape.

Pellaea Breweri—Brewer’s Cliff Brake.

Botrychium Virgiananum—Virginia Grape.

Ophioglossum Vulgatum—Adder-tongue.

Wild Animals.—Bears are common in the surrounding mountains, and occasionally descend into the Valley; rarely, however, until the winter has set in. Travelers in the mountains often cross bear tracks, but to see the bear itself requires skill in the hunter’s art. The grizzly, the black and the cinnamon bear are all found at times. They never interfere with travelers, preferring to keep out of man’s sight. In and around the Valley are also such animals as the fisher, coyote, mink, skunk, gray squirrel, marmot, gopher and wood-rat. Deer are kept out of the Valley by the presence of people, but in the surrounding elevations they are still quite numerous, and furnish plenty of sport for the active and persistent hunter.

Birds of many kinds swarm in the Valley. Among them are several sorts of eagles, hawks and owls. Robins are present in force, as are also larks, humming-birds, swallows, jays, thrushes and red-headed woodpeckers (Melanerpes Formicivorus). Of the industry of the last named almost every dead tree bears evidence. Holes are drilled into the trees by the woodpeckers and plugged with acorns, the excavations being made to fit the nuts so accurately that the acorns can only be got out by digging away the wood that binds them. These carpenters (for the Mexicans well call them carpinteros) can be seen at work every morning, when they wake the echoes

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with the noise of their drilling and their sharp, chattering cries. They sometimes have famous battles, and invariably are conquerors, with the handsome gray squirrels, who occasionally try to steal the woodpeckers’ stores. Whether the bird eats the acorn or not is a disputed question, some persons holding that after being deposited in a tree the acorn becomes wormy, and that the worm, instead of the acorn itself, is the woodpeckers’ meat.

Game Birds are represented by the grouse and crested quail. These, however, are not often seen on the floor of the Valley, but are plentiful among the surrounding heights. The mountain quails of California are of two kinds, one being rather larger than the other, but not greatly different otherwise. There is a third variety, found in the foothills and on the plains, smaller than the mountaineers, and distinguishable by the feathers of the crest, numbering from one to six, curving forward—the crest of the mountain bird curving backward. Wild ducks also are sometimes, although rarely, seen in the Valley, but flock in large numbers on some of the lakes in the upper neighborhood.

Snakes.—There are but few of the ophidians in this region. Occasionally a rattle-snake is killed in the Valley, but the rattlers are so rare as not to be a source of disquietude to anybody. The king-snake, handsomely striped in black, white and red, and which is supposed to be a deadly enemy of the rattler, is found infrequently. It does not trouble mankind. Striped water-snakes are common, but are in no way harmful.

Fish.—There is a fair abundance of trout in the streams of Yosemite. The trout are taken with the fly, with grasshoppers, worms and a variety of other baits. The fish, however, is very wary, and visiting fishermen, as a rule, do not make large catches. The Indians dwelling in the Valley are very expert at the business, and keep the hotels supplied with trout throughout the season. They sometimes use grasshoppers or pieces of chub or sucker for bait. There are, however, white lads living in the Valley who can quite outdo the Indian fishermen in capturing the trout, and who prefer the fly-hook to any other lure.

The trout is the only fish of consequence in the waters of the Valley. There are many chub, but they are not much sought after, except for use as bait.

Hotels, Shops and Other Buildings.—There are two hotels. in the Valley. The Stoneman House was built by the State at an expense of $40,000, and opened for business in the present year, (’88.) It stands on the southern side of the upper part of the Valley, under Glacier Point. Barnard’s is at the village, not so high up the Valley as the first. There are also two hotels—Snow’s at the foot of the Nevada Falls and McCauley’s at the top of Glacier Point—which, although not in the Valley proper, form important parts of the accommodations for travelers.

The settlement in the Valley has a chapel and a school house, a postoffice, a telegraph office, a general country store, where campers can obtain anything which they are likely to need, two photographers’ rooms, a blacksmith shop, butcher shop, and that of a cabinet worker in woods. The latter is well worth a visit, as it contains many dainty and beautiful specimens of the wood worker’s art, which are always open for inspection.

The Guardian of the Valley has in the village an office, where is kept a register, on which all visitors are requested to sign their names.

The stage lines also have offices here. There is also a livery stable, where carriages and saddle or pack horses may be hired.

Camp Grounds.—For persons who prefer to make their stay in camps of their own, a ground has been set apart, with

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INDIAN ACORN STORES.

ample space for all, without interference with each other. The ground hitherto used has been in the upper part of the Valley, on the northern side of the Merced River, and with the Royal Arches looking down on the camps. There are here magnificent oaks to afford shelter from the sun, and thickets of young spruce and cedar trees among which a degree of privacy is obtainable. Conveniently adjacent is a free pasture for teams, and also a corral, where hay and grain are for sale, and where horses may be fed and secured without extra charge. The camp ground will be found quite an interesting place for visitors from the hotels.

Climate.—In the winter deep snows fall in the Valley, and the thermometer marks occasionally nearly down to zero, but there is much warm and pleasant weather, and the snow melts rapidly. In midsummer the mercury sometimes ranges above 80° during the hotter parts of the days, but the mornings and evenings are uniformly delightful. After the opening of the roads, in March or April, not much stormy weather is likely to be experienced by visitors. Rain storms and snow storms in the mountains which are passed over in going to the Valley, may possibly occur as late as June, so that it is well for travelers to be provided with some warm clothing or “wraps.” From the beginning of May considerable heat is probable on the road to the Valley, until the upper parts of the journey are attained. Medium clothing on the person, with some extra outside garment, in case of need, and a linen duster in summer, is the right provision.

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THE LADDERS—VERNAL FALLS.

CHAPTER III.

The Cataracts of Yosemite.

During the spring and early summer, when the yet deep snows of the high Sierra are melting rapidly, there are many waterfalls pouring down the precipitous sides of the Valley. As the season advances, several of these cataracts dwindle away until they become almost imperceptible trickles of water. One who has only seen these torrents in their full and majestic flow can with difficulty comprehend their almost total disappearance. And one who looks on their shrunken proportions in the late autumn has even more difficulty in picturing to himself the captivating spectacle presented by the falls in their season of power and splendor. However, with the exception of the Yosemite Fall, which in some years vanishes almost completely, the more voluminous of the cataracts never diminish so much as to lose their stately attractiveness.

Taking them in the order in which they are generally seen by visitors to the Valley, the principal falls are named as follows:

Bridal Veil, Ribbon, Sentinel, Yosemite, Royal Arch, Tooloolaweack (or Illillouette), Vernal, Nevada, and Cascade.

The Bridal Veil Fall, of which the Indian name is Pohono, shoots over the southern side of the Valley, near its lower end. It is fed by a stream called the Bridal Veil Creek, which derives its water from Ostrander Lake, a small sheet of water in the mountains, about a dozen miles southward from the Valley. The width of the fall, at the top, does not exceed an average of fifteen or sixteen yards, varying according to the fullness of the stream, but it has a clear, unimpeded fall of six hundred feet. From the foot of this descent the water continues down in a cascade, but from many points of view it has the appearance of making but one flight through the nine hundred feet of space from its top to the place where the fall may be said to end. Fine, unbroken views of the Bridal Veil, which is, to many tastes, the most beautiful of all the cataracts of the region, present themselves at a number of points on either road entering the Valley. In making what is known as the Lower Round drive (that is, the drive from the hotels down one side of the Valley and up the other) the road crosses the Bridal Veil Creek below the foot of the fall. From the bridge, at

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BRIDAL VEIL FALL.

this place, one may enjoy a most inspiring view of the fall in its entirety. Visitors coming in by the road from Wawona cross this bridge soon after entering the Valley.

Pohono, the name by which the Indians know the Bridal Veil, is said to contain an allusion to the breeze that is almost constantly blowing in the neighborhood. Winds are generally believed by American Indians to be caused by spirits, and the name Pohono is also said to have some reference to an evil spirit, but the real meaning of the name is obscure. This breeze (evil spirit or good) adds much to the charm of the scene. It catches the stream almost immediately below the brink of the cliff, and sways it first to one side and then to the other, with long, sweeping motions of more than ideal grace. In its far descent, the water divides into myriads of jets, like a dense flight of miniature comets. These gradually separate as they plunge through the air, so that the lower part of the majestically waving downpour is much wider than the top. Great trailing sheets of comminuted spray, sparkling under the sun like diamond dust, are blown here and there against the walls on either side. About the fall, as a whole, there is a certain lace-like effect, that, added to the gracefully pendant appearance, lends a fair measure of appropriateness to the name Bridal Veil. To heighten the resemblance, the sun’s rays, touching the top of the fall, create there an imaginable likeness to a gleaming wreath, or crown, fit for such a veil.

In the autumn, while the fall loses much of its volume, it has attractions peculiar to that season. Often the water seems to be borne upward from the verge of the cliff, a cloud of spray ascending on the winds towards the sky. Seen from below, the effect of the Bridal Veil is then of a rare and most pleasing description.

Visitors who have plenty of time, can, with satisfaction, devote a whole day, or several days, to the neighborhood of the foot of the Bridal Veil. If, indeed, there were nothing else to see in the Valley, a journey hither would be amply rewarded by this spectacle.

The Ribbon Fall (Indian name Lungootookooyah) is on the northern side of the Valley, and but little higher up than the Bridal Veil. Like the latter, it is seen very effectively from the stage-roads, as one descends to the Valley. It has an almost vertical descent, estimated at 2000 feet, and then makes a further bounding flight of more than 1000 feet before reaching the floor of the Valley. In the early part of the season of travel the Ribbon forms one of the most noteworthy pictures of the whole splendid gallery; but, as the summer proceeds, the flow of water becomes more and more restricted, until it has scarcely even a suggestion of its spring-time glory. The approach to the foot of the vertical part of the fall is somewhat difficult, on account of the great sloping aggregation of broken rock that is piled below the upright wall. The Ribbon is consequently less familiarly known, and has a more limited fame than several of the other falls.

The Sentinel Fall is on the southern side of the Valley, about two miles higher up than the Bridal Veil. It takes its name from the great Sentinel Rock, a short distance above the fall. The latter has no exceedingly great clear pitch, but comes down the side of the Valley in a succession of cascades. Seen from the Valley roads, however, its upper part has the appearance of forming one flight of several hundred feet perpendicular. There is no trail leading up by this fall, and the climb over the talus, or debris, through which it descends, is of too arduous a nature to induce the ordinary visitor to attempt it. Towards the end of July, the stream which feeds this fall is apt to disappear.

The Yosemite Falls—in their best aspect, the most awe-inspiring of all around the Yosemite Valley, and in the opinion of many competent judges the most sublime waterfalls in the world—come next in the order of presentation. They are on the northern side of the Valley, and somewhat nearer to its upper than to the lower end. In driving up the stage-road to the hotels, one obtains unobstructed views of them at several points before reaching the village.

The entire descent of the Yosemite Fall is about 2550 feet. There are, however, three distinct divisions, although from many points of view, the general effect appears to be almost like that of a single flight. Of the three divisions, the upper fall has the greatest height—about 1500 feet. The measurements

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YOSEMITE FALL.

vary slightly. On account of the curving form of the edge of the precipice over which the water rolls, different surveyors have measured to different points. There is no other known fall carrying anything like an equal amount of water and making a single jump as great as that of the Upper Yosemite. The width of the fall at its upper edge is thirty-four feet.

The Middle Yosemite Fall is a series of cascades, having a total descent of 626 feet. The Lower Fall is a straight, downward plunge of over 400 feet. From the bottom thereof the stream foams over masses of broken rock for a short distance, and then more placidly flows onward to its junction with the Merced River.

The measurements of the Yosemite Falls, according to Professor J. D. Whitney, of the State Geological Survey, and Lieutenant Wheeler, of the U. S. Topographical Survey, are as follows:

Whitney.

Wheeler.

Upper Fall

ft.

1500

Upper Fall

ft.

1436

Middle “

“

626

Middle “

“

626

Lower “

“

400

Lower “

“

488

____

____

2526

2550

The stream (Yosemite Creek) which supplies these falls is fed by the melting snows in the direction of Mount Hoffmann, about nine miles distant in a “bee line.” (See under title Mount Hoffmann.) About the end of August, the fall is apt to “go dry,” although in some years there is until late in September a fairly large supply of water. The magnificence of this torrent is most apparent early in the season, when to describe the spectacle is beyond the art of man. At the time of year when the stream has diminished in its flow, it is practicable to walk directly under the Upper Fall. Behind the sloping edge, on which the descending cataract strikes, there is a deep recess in the wall, where one can sit with perfect comfort and safety, while the water shoots past the front of the broad indentation in the cliff.

One extremely interesting and beautiful sight to be enjoyed by persons who choose to visit the Valley very early in the season, is the famous Ice Cone, which forms at the bottom of the Upper Fall. It is composed of the fragments of large icicles that grow on the projections of rock at the side of the fall, and that break off when partly melted by the increasing heat of the sun. The descending trickle of water (for then the stream is not yet receiving its full supply of melted snow) washes over the pile of fallen icicles, and this, with the action of the freezing nights, weld the heap into a solid cone-shaped mass of strange attractiveness. (See Route No. 2, and second day of Route No. 10, in Itinerary.)

The Royal Arch Fall is on the same side of the Valley as is the Yosemite, and nearly two miles further up. It is quite a small stream, fed by melting snows around the North Dome, and disappears early in the summer. Its height is about 2500 feet. The name it bears is due to its descending that part of the Valley wall which is known as the Royal Arches. Sometimes a late rain causes this fall to pour down a grand stream of water for a few hours, after which it disappears again. It is best seen from the opposite side of the Valley, under Glacier Point.

The Tooloolaweack (or Illillouette) Fall.— This fall, like those hereafter described, does not descend immediately into the Valley. Leading into the upper end of the space called by that name are three gorges or cañons. Down the middle one comes the Merced River; through the northerly one flows Tenayah Creek, and that to the south is the cañon of the Tooloolaweack. The latter is less extended than the other, reaching back scarcely a mile and a half from the Valley proper. It is approached by a trail that from the south end of the Merced Bridge follows up the Merced River to the place near the junction with the Tooloolaweack Creek. By ascending the course of this creek one can approach the fall; but the climb is a very rough one, especially since a fire, which in 1887 burned over a considerable space of ground along the creek, and destroyed a bridge that crossed it. Fine views, however, of this fall are obtained from a distance, particularly from the Anderson trail, which leads up the opposite side of the Merced. This trail is the one taken when the traveler is going to Vernal and Nevada Falls, the Little Yosemite and Cloud’s Rest, and the sight of the Tooloolaweack Falls is one of the most striking bits of scenery on the route. The trail, from the head of the Nevada Fall to Glacier Point, crosses the Tooloolaweack Creek above the fall, which is there seen in a new aspect. The main Tooloolaweack Fall is about 400 feet high. From the bottom of this plunge the stream is a boiling cascade down to its confluence with the Merced.

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VERNAL FALL.

The Vernal Fall is a jump made by the Merced River about a mile above the place where it enters the open valley. This fall is as perfect a picture of beauty as can be found in the world. At all times of the year it displays a completeness of charm that leaves an indestructible impression on the mind of the spectator. The vertical height of the Vernal is about 350 feet. At the top of the fall the stream has an average width of about eighty feet. It shoots down into a narrow cañon, and is begirt by peaks and mountain slopes of wild grandeur. Behind it the Cap of Liberty raises its noble outline, and forms the central and most conspicuous summit in the view.

Approaching the Vernal Fall from below, the Anderson trail winds along the flank of Grizzly Peak, on the northern side of the river, until about a quarter of a mile from the bottom of the fall. Here there is a bridge, from which there is one of the best views of the fall and the rapids below it. Crossing the bridge, the trail is followed up to a great over-hanging rock with a smooth surface, on which a number of visitors, “in the early days,” painted their names. Hence the name Register Rock. Here the trail forks. The right hand branch enables visitors to ascend on horseback to the head of Vernal Fall, and then on to the Nevada Fall and Snow’s Hotel. The other branch continues up by the river to the foot of the Vernal Fall, below which is a broad rock (known as the Lady Franklin Rock, that famous woman having once visited the place,) which is easy of access, and where one may study the glories of the fall in close proximity. Leaving the foot of the fall the trail ascends a somewhat difficult route at the side of the cataract, until a wooden stairway called The Ladders is reached. By these Ladders one mounts to the top of the fall. When a party is accompanied by a guide, he will, if desired, take the horses around by the other trail, and the visitors may ascend The Ladders and be joined by the guide with the horses a short distance from the head of the fall, where the trails reunite. Or the passage of The Ladders is made in returning to the Valley, this being much less laborious than the upward climb. While there is no danger necessarily attendant on the ascent or descent by the side of the Vernal Fall, persons who are not quite sure of their steadiness of head or foot, are advised to go around by the horse trail. It is also advisable for anybody who intends passing up or down The Ladders to be provided with waterproof garments. The spray from the fall blows in dense clouds over parts of the ascent, and visitors wearing clothing not made to shed water are liable to undergo a thorough soaking.

At the top of the fall there are several places where one may with perfect safety stand and look down on the whole front of the column of foam.

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NEVADA FALL.

Almost immediately above the fall is a place where the river expands, and which bears the name of the Emerald Pool. The peculiar green color of the water makes the name an appropriate one. The pool is seen very well from the horse trail that leads up to Snow’s hotel, but a nearer inspection of all this part of the river above the Vernal Fall will yield an ample recompense for the trouble.

The Nevada Fall.—Close to a mile, in a straight line from the top of the Vernal Fall, is the famous Nevada Fall. Partly from its immediate characteristics, and partly from the august nature of the surrounding scenery, the Nevada Fall has obtained a world-wide celebrity. Being fed, like the Vernal, by the main branch of the Merced River, the Nevada Fall has always a large supply of water. Its height is given by Lieutenant Wheeler as 605 feet. Professor Whitney says: “Our measurements made the Nevada from 591 to 639 feet, at different times and seasons.” He gives the descent of the rapids between the Nevada and Vernal Falls at nearly 300 feet. The approach to the Nevada from the Valley is by the trails spoken of in the paragraphs concerning the Vernal. About half way between the two falls the trail crosses a bridge. Immediately above and under the bridge is the Diamond Cascade, a seething rapid, leaping over great boulders, but confined to a narrow space. Below the bridge the rapid takes the name of Silver Apron. Here the water slides with exceeding swiftness along a broad, easily sloping and smooth surface of rock. More particularly when the water in the river has begun to diminish in volume, the appearance of the Silver Apron is suggestive of delicate filigree work.

Near the foot of Nevada Fall is the hotel known as the Casa Nevada (Snow House). From this place is an unsurpassed view of the fall and of the surrounding landscape, of which the enormous granite dome known as the Cap of Liberty forms the boldest feature.

Following the trail past the Casa Nevada, and up by the side of the fall, something less than three-quarters of a mile brings one to a fork in the path. The left-hand branch leads to the Little Yosemite, Cloud’s Rest and other places. The right-hand one comes shortly to a bridge near the top of the Nevada Fall, and, after crossing the bridge, continues on to Glacier Point. A visit to the top of the falls makes a delightful part of a day’s excursion.

The Cascade Fall is at the extreme lower end of the Valley; indeed, beyond the Valley, strictly defined, and the drive to it is a succession of delightful surprises. The road follows the river closely all the way, keeping on the northern vide. The Merced, from the more open part of the Valley downward, surges over large boulders, making an almost continuous rapid. The Cascades themselves have a picturesqueness on a par with that of any falls of the kind, and the surrounding scenery is of the grandest. The trip to the Cascades is one which is particularly suitable for persons who do not care to climb on horseback or afoot to the high points surrounding the Valley. There is good fishing in this neighborhood, and it is generally a most agreeable place whereat to spend a day. From the village to the Cascades the distance is 7.67 miles, and, as the road is good, a visit may be made in an afternoon of average length, although an entire day so used will afford greater satisfaction.

CHAPTER IV.

Peaks, Points and Domes.

Although the great fame of Yosemite is largely due to its unrivalled collocation of waterfalls, still if those torrents were altogether absent, the place would be without a peer as a soul-moving example of nature’s handicraft. The walls of the Valley are a succession of granite forms so stupendous in their magnitude, so varied and eloquent in design, and endowed with such exquisite harmony in their general composition, that the beholder is inspired with a sense of being in the abode of supernal majesty.

As has been elsewhere said, the walls of the Valley are not evenly continuous, but are broken by deep recesses and enormous jutting points. Thus are formed distinctive divisions, each having its peculiarly characteristic kind of magnificence. The more prominent of these divisions have been named with greater or less degrees of fitness and originality. Supposing that one is entering the Valley from the lower end, where the stage and other roads enter, the order in which these grand divisions will be passed, are as follows:

On the northern, or left-hand side, El Capitan, The Three Brothers (of which the highest is called Eagle Peak), the cañon of the Yosemite Falls, Yosemite Point, Indian Cañon, the Royal Arches, the Washington Tower and the North Dome, the latter rounding upwards immediately over the Royal Arches and Tower.

On the southern, or right-hand side, Inspiration Point, the Cathedral Rocks, the Cathedral Spires, the Sentinel Rock (with the Sentinel Dome above it), Glacier Point, and the wall of the Tooloolaweack Cañon.

At the eastern end, and divided from the lateral walls by the cañons of the Merced River and Tenayah Creek, are Grizzly Peak and the Half or South Dome.

Not actually forming parts of the walls proper, but in apparently close relationship, are Cloud’s Rest and Mt. Watkins, the first on the southern and the other on the northern side of Tenayah Cañon.

Inspiration Point.—Here is where the first sight of the Valley is had by visitors approaching by the Wawona road. The Point is more than 1500 feet above the Valley floor, and affords one of the finest (many persons say quite the finest) of the views in the vicinity of the Valley. The rock El Capitan is at one’s left, the Bridal Veil Fall at the right, with the peaks known as the Three Graces above the fall. Higher up on the

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EL CAPITAN.

same side are the Sentinel Rock and, above it, the Sentinel Dome. The Half Dome, the North Dome, and Cloud’s Rest are at the upper end of the scene. Paintings and photographs beyond number have been made of the view from this place, showing that to the artistic perception the spot is worthy of its renown.

El Capitan (The Captain)—not badly named considering the dominating grandeur of its presence—is one vast segment or block of granite, thrusting, itself out towards the centre of the Valley, and having two faces nearly at right angles to each other. Either of these faces is almost vertical. The upper point of the angle is 3300 feet above the level of the Valley. There are few signs of vegetation anywhere on these immense perpendicular cliffs. On the face looking to the south, however, there is, at a short distance above the broken rock from which the upright wall arises, a seemingly small hollow. In this indentation grows a pine tree. The stage drivers point out this tree to travelers, and tell them that it is 125 feet high, although it appears like a mere shrub, so insignificant is its height in contrast with the tremendous elevation of the wall to which it adheres. Seen from a distance, the sloping heaps of debris, which are piled at the base of either side of El Capitan, look quite diminutive as compared with the vast bulk above them. As Professor Whitney suggested, let the traveler begin to climb up one of these piles, and he will soon have his ideas enlarged concerning their magnitude. He will also get much nearer to a comprehension of the greatness of the solid block itself, than he will be able to attain while viewing El Capitan from the level of the Valley. Mr. Hutchings recommends that the visitor should mount the debris to the foot of the southern perpendicular, place his back against the wall and look upward. Part of the southern face protrudes from the exactly vertical to the extent, it is said, of 100 feet, and certainly enough to be quite apparent to the eye.

To reach the summit of El Capitan involves an arduous, roundabout journey, which the ordinary visitor to the Valley does not care to undertake, especially as there are other points more easily accessible, and from which may be had views differing but little from those at the top of the great cliff.

Cathedral Rocks.—On the southern side of the Valley, and directly opposite El Capitan, stand the cluster of irregularly composed walls, peaks and towers known as the Cathedral Rocks. They form a striking part of the foreground in the scene that is exhibited to travelers descending by either of the stage roads. The Bridal Veil Fall pours down the western

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CATHEDRAL ROCKS.

side of one of the lower parts of these rocks.

Seen from the roads at points considerably higher than the Valley floor, the Rocks have three great divisions of different vertical elevations. These are sometimes, without apparent fitness, called The Three Graces. The characteristic shapes whence came the hint for the name of Cathedral Rocks are not seen until the angle east of the Bridal Veil Fall has been passed. Then presently a nearly perpendicular facade, not a little suggestive of that of a Gothic cathedral, rears itself towards the sky. The upper part of this edifice is 2660 feet above the floor. The whole mass of the Cathedral Rocks is about half a mile in diameter from east to west. It projects for a somewhat greater distance from the general line of the Valley walls. All along the upper side of the Rocks, and along the wall trending eastward from the rear of that projection, is a serried array of architectural ornamentation, infinitely varied, but having generally a flamboyant Gothic effect. The contrast between this nobly ornate stretch and the grandiose simplicity of El Capitan and the adjoining cliffs on the opposite side of the Valley, is wonderfully fine. The Cathedral side, being on the south, is in the shade during a large part of the day, but when the sun’s rays strike directly towards it the ceaseless play of lights and shadows among the crags is a study of ever fresh and delightful interest. In close companionship with the rear of the Cathedral Rocks, on their upper or eastern side, are the

Cathedral Spires.—These are two granite shafts having a close resemblance to each other, and whose summits are respectively 2678 and 2579 feet (Lieutenant Wheeler’s measurements) above the level of the Valley. They do not rise from the edge of the wall (which has here a considerable slope), but shoot up from a lower part, and in some lights appear in bold relief. Their distinctly columnar forms are about 600 or 700 feet in height. The aptness of the name which has attached to these peaks is obvious at a glance.

The Three Brothers are on the northern side of the Valley, being the grand division adjoining and above El Capitan. These are three enormous peaks springing from a common base, and rising one above and behind the other. To one approaching them on the western side these three elevations appear to be leaning forward over the Valley. Their general outline in that aspect has an imaginable likeness to three frogs’ heads, and the Indian name Pompompasa (or pasus) is said to contain some reference to that similitude. The highest of the Three Brothers is also known as Eagle Peak. Its summit is 3830 feet (Whitney) or 3818 (Wheeler) above the Valley floor. From it is obtainable one of the most extensive and indescribably majestic views in the whole Yosemite region. This point is reached by the Eagle Peak trail, which passes up by the Yosemite Fall. (See Route No. 10, in Itinerary.) The Merced River runs close to the pile of broken rock below the Three Brothers. The road on that side of the Valley is there built through and of the granite debris that forms part of the river bank. The place is called Rocky Point. Looking eastward from this point the visitor sees the upper end of the Valley, including both the North and South Domes, in an aspect which by many persons is judged to be without a rival among the views from the Valley floor.

Sentinel Rock (called Loya by the Indians) faces the Three Brothers, and is to the right of the traveler when driving up the Valley. It is the most conspicuous eminence of the southern wall, and has a dominant influence in the scenery of the middle part of the Valley, just as El Capitan and the South Dome have in the lower and upper parts, although each of the three is of a character wholly distinct from that of the others. The shape of Sentinel Rock, is from many points of view, not unlike a broad-based obelisk. Its tip is 3069 (Wheeler) or 3043 (Whitney) feet above the river. The side fronting over the Valley is pyramidical in general outline and nearly perpendicular for at least 1500 feet below the apex. From the bottom of this imposing tower down to the level of the Valley the wall has a little greater slope, and is composed of masses of fallen rock. The direct trail to Glacier Point ascends among this heap of debris, and at one place runs not far from the vertical face of the Sentinel. (See Route No. 3.) The summit of the Sentinel is accessible, but the feat of climbing to it is so difficult and dangerous that it has been rarely attempted. At one time there was a small flag flying from a staff planted on the highest point by a lady.

Sentinel Dome.—This rock does not spring immediately from the Valley wall. It begins to define itself about half a mile to the rear and southeast of the Sentinel Rock. It is a great, roughly hemispherical protuberance with very little vegetation on the upper part. The vertex is 4160 feet above

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SENTINEL ROCK.

the Valley. From the crown of the dome the view includes a vast scope of the high Sierra, and is spoken of by all visitors in terms of unlimited admiration. The dome is reached from the Valley by taking the trail to Glacier Point, from which place to ascend the dome calls for an easy walk or ride, the distance from and back to Glacier Point being less than 2.50 miles. Several of the routes in the Itinerary herewith are laid out so as to include this dome. (Routes Nos. 3, 12, 14, and others.) The road between Glacier Point and Wawona passes at no great distance from the dome on its eastern side.

Yosemite Point.—From the road underneath the Sentinel one looks straight across the Valley to the Yosemite Falls. The projection of the wall on the eastward side of this cataract is called Yosemite Point. Whitney gives its height as 3030 feet, and Wheeler says 3220. A matter of 100 or 200 feet, however, is of no consequence in comparison with the tremendous whole. On the western side of the outer extremity of this projecting mass, and close to the top, is a spur of granite separated, except at its base, from the main body, and which is known as the Giant’s Thumb. The view from the summit of Yosemite Point is one of distinguished grandeur, even among so many others of signal fame. The lower as well as the upper end of the Valley is overlooked from the Point, a comprehensive panorama of the floor, as well as of all the higher eminences surrounding the Valley, being spread before the eye. The trip to and from this place may easily be accomplished in a day, with plenty of time to linger on the trail, or to rest at the summit or elsewhere. (See Route 10, Second Day, and succeeding Routes in Itinerary.)

Indian Cañon is the name of the deep ravine or cleft in the wall eastward of Yosemite Point. Formerly there was a trail, whose construction was due to Mr. J. W. Hutchings, leading up to Yosemite Point by way of this cañon. When the Eagle Peak trail was made, that by Indian Cañon was neglected, and it is now impassable for horses, and difficult to follow by mountaineers afoot, large masses of fragmentary rock having slipped over it. But persons with a fondness for scrambling in uncertain places may find in the cañon an opportunity to gratify their taste for such excursions. The Indians used this cañon as a means of exit and ingress to the Valley at the time of the discovery by white men: hence the name it bears.

Glacier Point is the first prominent head-land or angle of the southern wall after passing Sentinel Rock, on the way up the Valley. For about a mile eastward from the Sentinel the wall runs in a generally straight line. Nearly the whole front here, from bottom to top, is a vast pile of debris or talus. The slope of this talus is considerable in the vicinity of the Sentinel, but it becomes more perpendicular as the wall extends to the east. At the angle called Glacier Point the talus, is comparatively small. Here are bare upright faces of rock rising to thousands of feet above the floor. As the space between this and the northern wall is narrower than in many other parts of the Valley, the effect of height and verticality is intensified to the spectator from below. Looking up from the level (say on the camp ground or by the hotel which stands near the foot of the Point) the upper line of the wall around Glacier Point seems to be very sharply defined. Along the verge of this great precipice clusters of pine trees can be seen, but the distance is such that they appear no larger than small clumps of bushes. At one of the highest corners there is a tall staff, with a white flag several yards in length attached to it, but the flag looks like a handkerchief fluttering in the air. Indeed, when not extended by the breeze and not touched by the sun, this illustrious and illusive banner is often invisible to ordinary eyes. The exalted place where this flag waves is the one which of all the points looking down on the Valley has perhaps the most renown for the unspeakable glory of its scenic environment. It is 3250 feet above the Valley floor. It is reached by the Glacier Point trail, winding up under and by the side of the Sentinel Rock. Or, as a longer route, one can go by the trail to Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall, and thence by the head of the latter and by Echo Wall to the point. There is at Glacier a comfortable hotel, whose owner, James McCauley, is an authority in all that regards mountain travel in this region, and who is able and willing to impart his information to others in an intelligible manner. The finest view around Glacier Point is from the porch of the hotel. It encompasses a broad scope of the High Sierra, reaching back as far as Mt. Lyell, and including Tenayah Peak, Mts. McClure, Florence, Ritter, Clark, the Gray and the Red Mountains and Mt. Starr King, besides many less well known or unnamed eminences. Throughout the year the ridges and summits of the high Sierra are draped with canopies or curtains of snow. These, of course, lessen in extent during the late Summer, but there is always enough of the lustrous decoration to add sparkling beauty to the unearthly grandeur of this unsurpassable vision. In the centre of the picture is the Nevada Fall, and below it the Vernal Fall, with bits of the cascades between them. Most prominent of all the features of this rare landscape is the great Half Dome. From no other place does the appearance of this marvellous rock—“so utterly unlike anything else in the world,” as Professor Whitney says—force itself on one’s mind with an equal impressiveness.

The place where the flag waves is only a few yards from the hotel, but the view is quite different. Here on the extreme edge of the precipice are two great boulders, with an open space between them. Metal bars have been fastened from boulder to boulder at the front of the gap, so that people may lean against them and look straight down to the floor of the Valley, more than 3000 feet below. So stupendous is the abyss that numbers of persons are timorous about approaching the bars, but there is no actual danger whatever in doing so. Other people sit down on the rock and let their feet hang over the edge, but this practice, although frequently occurring here and at other high places around the Valley, is extremely foolhardy, and is a most dangerous example to set or to follow.

With the exception of some of the trips planned for one afternoon around the Valley, all the routes laid out in the Itinerary in this book include Glacier Point. As some visitors to the Valley are unable either to ride on horseback or to walk up the trails, it is noted that such persons can reach Glacier Point either by the Wawona stages or by carriages to be hired in the Valley. The round trip that way will occupy two days.

The name Glacier Point seems to have been given to this angle because in front of it was the junction between the great glaciers that once came down the Tenayah Cañon and those of the main Merced and Tooloolaweack. On the floor of the Valley, between the Merced River and Tenayah Creek, the carriage road crosses a ridge, which is an old moraine deposited by those glaciers.

Royal Arches.—On the northern side of the Valley, looking down on the ground set apart for camping parties, and directly opposite Glacier Point, is the curiously graven wall known as the Royal Arches. It extends from Indian Cañon eastward as far as the entrance to Tenayah Creek Cañon, but the sculptured arches occur on the easterly half of this space. The arches are great semi-circling cavities, of varying depth, but very regular in their curving line of fracture. They spread out for something like a quarter of a mile, and the vertex of the highest is not far from the top of the wall, which exceeds 2000 feet in perpendicular height. The wall here is also illuminated with broad streaks of color, due to the water trickling down in the Spring and early Summer. Black, a tawny yellow, and some purplish hues prevail among the coloring. The arches are perhaps most effective as a spectacle under the light of a well-grown moon. Indeed, it may be said of the Valley as a whole that one who has never studied it by moonlight has but an unfamiliar acquaintance with the variety of its beauties.

Washington Tower.—At the angle formed by the Royal Arches and the wall of Tenayah Cañon is the great pillar of granite called by the foregoing name. It stands out prominently from the main body of rock, being separated therefrom by a deep slash extending down the wall from near the base of the North Dome.

North Dome.—This is a splendid instance of the peculiar rounding formation to which the name of dome has been given by popular usage, and which is so common among the granitic elevations of the High Sierra. It is an appropriate and harmonious superstructure for the edifice of which the Royal Arch wall and the Washington Tower form the southern front. The measurements of the height of the top of the dome above the Valley vary from 3568 up to 3700 feet. The summit is accessible from the rear, for the dome-like curvature is incomplete on the northern side, a long ridge sloping back nearly from the vertex and furnishing an easy line of travel. The place, however, is seldom visited as there is no regularly maintained trail leading to or near it. In referring to the North Dome, Professor Whitney says that these dome-shaped masses are somewhat characteristic of all granitic regions, but are nowhere else developed on so grand a scale as in the Sierra. He notes the fact (visible indeed to all observers) that this

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NORTH DOME AND WASHINGTON TOWER.

dome is made up of huge concentric plates of rock. This peculiarity of structure, he indicates, pervades the mass of rock underlying the dome itself, and is well exhibited on the Royal Arch wall, the cavities of which have been formed by the slipping down of immense plates of granite.

The Half Dome (or South Dome, of which the Indian name was Tissaack).—Monarch of all rocks is this (with due respect for Mont Blanc) and the ultimate perfection of splendor in granite. Both in its individual form and in its relative position among the other mural glories of the Valley, the South Dome seems to have been planned for the express purpose of filling the mind of man with utter contempt for his own finite and finikin efforts at architecture. From nearly all parts of the Valley floor and all points of the surrounding heights the South Dome is the great predominant landmark. Its supreme presence continually suggests the Miltonic line: “It was a rock piled up to the clouds, conspicuous afar.”

The position of the South Dome is above the angle at the

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HALF OR SOUTH DOME.

head of the Valley between the gorges of the Merced River and Tenayah Creek. This name was suggested by the fact that one side of the dome forms part of the southern wall of Tenayah Cañon, the North Dome rising over the other side. (Relatively to each other these domes are nearly northwest and southeast). But the alternate name of Half Dome is much more characteristic. The towering mass has all the appearance of having originally been a complete dome which was afterwards cleft in two, the now missing half having seemingly tumbled into the Tenayah Cañon. Whether or not this is a correct scientific view does not much matter. The men of science themselves have not yet begun to approach an agreement about the methods of nature by which the character of the Valley was determined. The average visitor regularly thinks and frequently speaks of the dome as having at some time had another half which was suddenly disrupted, and he is apt to wish that he had been there to see.

The extreme height of the Half Dome above the Valley is nearly 5000 feet. Lieut. Wheeler’s measurement was 4804 feet and Prof. Whitney’s 4737. For many years the summit was inaccessible, although efforts to scale its rounding back were frequently made. On the side overlooking Tenayah Creek the face of the Half Dome is absolutely perpendicular for at least 2000 feet from the apex down. On this face are no ledges or fractures to offer a place for hand or foot. Below that, before coming to the talus, is another 2000 feet of solid rock with a very slight inclination. The only imaginable way of getting to the top was on the curving side to the southeast. The feat of gaining the summit was first accomplished by a man named Geo. G. Anderson (the same who built the fine trail from the Valley to Vernal Fall) in October, 1875. Anderson found by repeated trials that there was no natural access to the peak. Selecting the highest place he could conveniently reach, he drilled holes in the unclimbable rock and drove in wooden bolts to which iron eyes were attached. One above the other he placed the pins, using each in its turn as a fresh hold for foot or hand until, after months of labor, he reached the top. As he had mounted he had used the assistance of a rope attached to the eye-bolts. When the work of placing the bolts was finished, he rove a more suitable rope through the eyes. From that time on, the ascent of this unique ladder was made by many visitors, ladies as well as men. The distance surmounted by this means is said to be 975 feet. All who have ever made the ascent describe it as extremely trying to the nerves, although less so than was the coming down. Anderson is now dead, and his famous ladder is a ruin. The rope has rotted and is broken, and some of the pegs are missing, so that the Half Dome is again inaccessible for men. The State of California, to which the Valley and the adjoining heights were given as a free gift by the United States, has not cared enough about the matter to preserve and improve Anderson’s singular provision for the attainment of one of the most sublime spots on the face of the globe. The top of the dome is said to comprise ten acres of fairly level rock, and to bear some slight vegetation, including seven pine trees. Mr. Hutchings also says, in “The Heart of the Sierras,” that about seventy feet from the edge of the vertical face there is a fissure several hundred feet in depth, suggesting that another falling away of a part of the dome may occur at any time.

Grizzly Peak.—Although not nearly so lofty as many other parts of the Valley walls, this mountain is very observable on account of its prominent position. It rises in the angle between the cañons of the Merced River and Tenayah Creek, directly at the head of the Valley, and immediately below the Half Dome, in a southwesterly direction. It is a rough, wooded and dark-looking peak, the summit of which is extremely difficult of attainment, only one person, so far as is known, having made the ascent. Its base is washed by the leaping cascades of the Merced River below the Vernal Falls, to which point the Anderson trail from the Valley is hewed out or built up along the side of the Peak. To one on the opposite side of the cañon the mountain appears to overhang the chasm. There are numerous great angular cavities in the rock, with beetling masses that seem ready to come crashing down. From the Tooloolaweack Cañon (which from the Anderson trail is seen throughout its length, with the Falls at the head,) Grizzly Peak presents a savagely picturesque spectacle.

Cloud’s Rest.—Strictly speaking, this noted crest is not a part of the Valley wall. It is, however, visible from so many parts of the floor of the Valley as well as from most of the investing heights, and is to the very summit so easy of access by a safe and not difficult trail, that it may rightly be considered as belonging to a catalogue of Yosemite’s matchless collection. Looking up the Valley, one sees Cloud’s Rest a little to the left of the Half Dome. The summits of the two are nearly three miles apart by an air-line, their relative directions being about northeast and southwest. The base of Cloud’s Rest forms part of the Tenayah Cañon wall, and the mountain is well seen from the banks of Mirror Lake which rests in that cañon. It may also be noted that from El Capitan bridge, over the Merced River in the lower part of the Valley, there is a beautiful picture to be seen with Cloud’s Rest forming an effective central back-ground. The summit is about 5780 feet above the Valley’s level, the altitude above the sea being 9772 feet, thus topping the Half Dome by something like 1000 feet. From this height the far-sweeping view extends over an infinitude of dazzling splendor. One looks down on the Yosemite itself with the entire array of embattled domes and points. Tenayah Cañon cleaves its way underneath, with Mt. Watkins, compeer of El Capitan himself fronting on the other side. To the north and south and east the High Sierra reveals its snow-decked majesty. There are in clear sight at least a dozen named peaks of which only two (Mt. Hoffmann, almost due north, and Mt. Starr King, to the south) are less than 11,000 feet high. As many or more others of less celebrity, but of nearly or quite equal height, crowd the scene. The highest peak in view, and the highest in the neighborhood of the Valley, is Dana (13,227 feet) in a northerly direction. Between Hoffmann and Dana are seen Tenayah Peak (with that exquisite sheet of water, Tenayah Lake, at its foot) and the great Cathedral, one of the most noble rock formations in the Sierra. Gibbs connects with Dana on the south. Lyell and Clark and Starr King follow around the circle.

Concerning trips to this summit, see directions for second day of Route No. 9, and in many of the succeeding Routes as laid out in the Itinerary.

Mount Watkins.—From the upper end of the Valley, wherever one can look up Tenayah Creek Cañon, one sees. Mt. Watkins, with its 4000 feet or more of vertical elevation on the left side of the gorge. It is a stupendous bluff, sloping but little, with a spheroidical upper front, and an elevated plateau stretching back from that dome-like part. It is easy of ascent from the rear, but is rarely visited in that direction. By walking up the cañon above Mirror Lake one obtains a very impressive acquaintance with Mt. Watkins, as well as with the straight up-and-down side of the Half Dome, and with Cloud’s Rest as seen from its base. The somewhat retired situation of Mt. Watkins tends to keep its fame in more shade than is its due. It was called after a photographer who was among the first to make pictures around the Valley, thereby aiding to spread information concerning the region.

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CAP OF LIBERTY.

Cap of Liberty.—Like the two preceding eminences, this gigantic monolith is slightly removed from the Valley proper. It is, however, one of the chief attractions on whichever route the traveler may follow around the Valley’s upper end. In approaching the Vernal Fall by the Anderson trail one sees the Cap rising up behind that delightful cataract. The Nevada Fall pours over a cliff running out from the southern side of the cap, which is best seen in its full grandeur from the neighborhood of the Casa Nevada, or Snow’s Hotel, below the fall. Its summit is said to be about 1800 feet above the site of that building, and is accessible, but hard to climb. Although there is but little vegetation on the precipitous sides of the cap there are several trees of considerable size growing on the summit. The name was given on account of a fancied resemblance between the outline of the rock and the Cap of Liberty on an old-fashioned coin.

CHAPTER V.

The High Sierra.

This is the name commonly in use to designate those parts of the Sierra Nevada ranging above the Yosemite Valley to the north, east and south. Although bearing a certain relationship to that of the Yosemite Valley, the scenery of the High Sierra has a distinct character of its own, and one not less impressive by its grandeur than is the spectacle of the glorious Valley itself. Some of the points to which reference has already been made (Cloud’s Rest and the Sentinel Dome, for examples) might be considered as part of the High Sierra, but for obvious reasons of convenience they have been classed with the sights of the Valley. From those summits some general notion may be obtained of the stern magnificence of the further region, but a more immediate acquaintance is necessary to enable one to carry away a just estimate of the scenic splendor of the High Sierra.

In this upper region there is an almost unlimited field for personal exploration, but the object of this little book is only to indicate points which may be conveniently reached by the average visitor without excessive effort or large preparation for travel. In the Itinerary herewith there are outlined routes to cover which would occupy from four or five days up to ten days. They can easily be varied, either before setting out or while en route, by persons wishing to travel faster or slower than is herein set down.

Lake Tenayah is distant from the Valley some sixteen or eighteen miles by the shortest route that can be followed on horseback. This is by the Eagle Peak trail. (See Route No. 18, Directions for Second Day.) Travelers afoot may reach the lake by following up the Tenayah Cañon from Mirror Lake, the distance being about ten miles, but involving some rather steep climbing. The difficulties, however, are not such that a fair walker would have trouble in making the trip in part of a day. Still another route is by a wagon road from Crocker’s Station, about twenty-three miles from Yosemite, on the Big Oak Flat road.

The Lake itself is not remarkable on account of its size, being about one mile and a-half long and three-quarters of a mile wide. Its distinction is due to its environment of peaks and domes of great elevation and characterized by a savage sort of sublimity. The height of these mountains and the extreme purity of the air at this altitude (close to 8000 feet), make the distance across the water seem even less than it is. Together, the softening influence of the Lake’s presence and the rugged masses of exposed granite form a scene that is a noble consort for the Yosemite Valley in the gallery of the Sierra. The Lake is nearly at the head of the Tenayah Cañon, and is fed by a little stream that gets its water from springs and snow-banks on the surrounding mountains. The greatest depth of the Lake does not appear to have been determined. On the side by which the road runs the shore shelves off very gradually, but on the opposite side and towards the center the water is of considerable depth.

Tenayah Peak, on the easterly side of the Lake, is a sharply defined crest whose apex is about 11,000 feet above the sea. It is quite heavily wooded near the base, but much the greater part is bare granite. The summit is not very difficult of access to one afoot, as the southern slant is long and gradual.

On the other shore the water ripples along the foot of Tenayah Dome—a bold example of that form of mountain, about 2000 feet in height above the Lake, and exhibiting over a large scope of its lower surface evidence of the glacial period in the shape of “glacier polish.” The friction of the moving body of ice which once filled this cañon to a depth of at least 500 feet (Whitney), and perhaps to a much greater depth, polished the granite so that it now shines under the sun like burnished steel. The rock has the appearance of having been so pressed that a coating or skin, a quarter of an inch or more in thickness, was formed on the exterior. The road by which one arrives at Tenayah is built along the base of the dome. Great slabs of granite were blasted out of the mountain side and allowed to slip down the smooth incline until they found a resting place at the edge of the water. In this way was formed a foundation for a fine esplanade, to walk along which, especially on a moonlit night, is a treat of rare magnificence.

Immediately above the Lake is a meadow through which the supplying creek descends. At the head of this verdant level is a singular, bell-shaped dome, between 800 and 1000 feet high, and known as Murphy’s Dome. It was called after John L. Murphy, for long a well-known guide in and around the Yosemite Valley, and now the owner of the “stopping place” at Lake Tenayah. The great glacier that came down the cañon seems to have swept around this dome, which is very regular in form and polished highly on parts of the surface.

Below the Lake the cañon or valley of the Tenayah becomes rather broader than above, and towards the south, at a distance of about half-a-dozen miles, is seen Cloud’s Rest. Notwithstanding this intervening space, the appearance of the majestic mountain is beautifully reflected on the placid waters of the bake. The figures of the nearer mountains are thrown back in the same way, but with greater distinctness of detail. This mirror-like effect is at its best in the morning before the light day breeze has dimpled the surface of the water, or towards evening, when the wind has gone down.

The Sierra is a region of echoes, but in no place therein is one likely to encounter a more striking echo than that of Tenayah Peak. Standing at the edge of the water in front of Murphy’s door, the visitor can, by slightly raising his voice, call forth answering tones, long repeated, of curious and pleasing distinctness and variety. The famous reverberations from Echo Wall in the Tooloolaweack Cañon (Yosemite) are less remarkable than those of Tenayah Peak.

Another of Tenayah’s curiosities is the sharp, hissing sound that is frequently heard about eight or nine o’clock in the morning. This unexplained noise appears to shoot through the air at some distance above the Lake. It has a resemblance to the sound of the tree-tops when stirred by the wind, but is more abrupt and shriller.

The meadows which partly border the Lake are covered in the summer with a dense and tall growth of delicate grasses. There are also many flowers growing on the meadows and among the fragmentary rocks of the mountain sides. Most of these flowers are similar in kind to those found in and around the Yosemite Valley. Several varieties of ferns of great beauty, especially in the early autumn, when they are changing color, abound on the mountains, and are often gathered by travelers as mementos of their visits. Tamarack and juniper trees constitute the most noticeable part of the timber growth at this elevation, and are frequently of oddly contorted shapes, due in part to the action of winter storms and the pressure of burdens of snow. On some of the mountain slopes (Tenayah Dome, for example) there is a thick and intricate growth of scrubby manzanita. Unlike the bush of the same name in lower parts of the Sierra, the manzanita here has a vine-like habit, creeping over the ground and sending fresh roots from the branches down into the scant soil of the crevices in the rock.

The business of accommodating travelers at Tenayah has not yet reached sufficient dimensions to warrant the establishment of a fully modernized hotel. Mr. Murphy, however, has for several years maintained a “stopping place,” in the phraseology of the West, that will be found quite satisfactory to all comers who are not excessively hard to please, and that may have a more piquant interest to persons to whom the shifts and devices of mountain life are matters of some novelty. The buildings for the accommodation of the public are made of logs and “shakes,” and are picturesquely situated in a grove at the head of a meadow skirting the Lake, the meadow being partly enclosed for a pasture for travelers’ horses.

Mount Hoffmann.—In coming to Lake Tenayah by the route advised, the road passes quite near to the southerly base of this mountain, about two miles and a half before reaching the Lake. Between the road and the mountain is a strip of meadow called Snow Flat, with a brook running through it. The excursion from the Lake to the summit of Hoffmann occupies a day pleasantly, although a good climber may make the ascent and return in an afternoon. There is no trail to the top, but one practicable for horses ascends to a bench on the southern side. Visitors usually ride up to this bench, fasten their horses to trees, and reach the summit afoot. Horses, however, have sometimes gone to the top. On one occasion the writer hereof accompanied two ladies who might have found the climb too much for their strength, and who rode, except for a short distance where there was some danger of the beasts’ stumbling, to the very summit. Unless led by a regular guide or by some one who has made the ascent, persons unfamiliar with mountain work may have difficulty in finding the trail up to the bench. They are advised to leave their horses on the meadow, and to go up the whole way afoot. In this way there is no difficulty in finding one’s course, as the front of the mountain is fully before the eyes.

At the eastern end of the bench mentioned there is a splendid outlook. Immediately below this point lies a Lake (also called Hoffmann), perhaps half a mile long, and resting in a lower bench than that on which the spectator stands. On its northern side the Lake is backed by a perfectly vertical wall of great height. From several other parts of the bench there are views that will well repay the slight exertion of coming hither. Upward from this shelf there is very little vegetation. A few stunted pines grow among the blocks of stone over which the climber must pick his way. There is no especial difficulty in doing so, and presently the rougher part of the ascent has been passed, and one comes to the curving, sandy slope that rounds off the top to the south. Crossing to the opposite side of the summit, which has an array of turrets, somewhat like an irregular crest, rising above the rounding surface, the visitor finds that the northern side of the mountain is a nearly perpendicular precipice of terrible grandeur. At its edge there is a sort of parapet, on which one may lean and look below with safety. The depth of this chasm is about 2000 feet. Where the wall begins to have a little slope there are great banks of everlasting snow, and immediately near the foot of the precipice is a minute lake of the vivid and peculiar blue color which distinguishes the small water holes of the Sierra. Scattered among the further ridges are nine similar lakelets. These are the sources whence is supplied the Yosemite Creek, and a glance from the top of Hoffmann explains why the great Yosemite Falls at times almost wholly cease to flow. As far as the eye can reach there is seen nothing but bare rock, utterly devoid of soil or of vegetation, excepting a few scraggy pines standing far apart among the ledges. When the winter’s snow melts it runs off the rock without any detaining interference from soil, and as soon as the main store of snow has melted there is nothing to furnish the stream with any considerable amount of water.

The views from the summit of Mount Hoffmann are unspeakably impressive, in whatever direction one looks. The whole circle of peaks to the north, the east and south of Yosemite, is included in the scene. There is but one way to get an idea of what this memorable spectacle is like, and that is by going to see it.

Although in ascending Mount Hoffmann a wide, treeless space is passed before gaining the top, there are growing on the summit a group of pines (Pinus albicaulis) of singular appearance. The trunks are of a good thickness, but the trees reach no greater height than eight to ten feet, their interlaced boughs growing very thickly and turning downward. The peculiar form of the trees appears to be due to the pressure of the great weight of snow that rests on them during several months.

Tuolumne Meadows.—(Tuolumne is pronounced in four syllables, accent on second.) From Lake Tenayah the road by which the traveler from Yosemite comes to that place continues up the cañon, between upright walls that are fair rivals for those of Yosemite in nobleness of design. The pass, gradually ascending, reaches an altitude of 9000 feet, and then turns downward at an easy grade until, some 500 feet lower than the summit of the pass, the road enters the Tuolumne Meadows. From Tenayah to this point is about four miles of continuous scenic splendor, and it is succeeded by another stretch of four or five miles equally as surprising by it’s stately beauty.

The Meadows are the upper part of the Valley of the Tuolumne River. They are about half a mile in average width, and level except where crossed by one or two indistinct moraines. They were formerly covered by a glacier of unknown depth, but judged by Professor Whitney to have been at least 1000 feet thick. The Meadows are now green with grass in summer, but the rock of the ridges on either side everywhere glistens like snow with the polish it has received from the glaciers. The Tuolumne River flows through the Meadows from east to west, descending at the lower end of the Meadows into a cañon that has never been explored. The ridge on the northern side of the Meadows is quite thickly wooded, chiefly with tamaracks, almost to the top. On the other side is a belt of timber above which one sees a succession of peaks of exceedingly eccentric shapes. The most conspicuous of these are the Cathedral and the Unicorn. The Cathedral, as seen from the Meadows, does not, however, show the outline to which is due its most appropriate name. Looking up the Meadows eastward, one faces the backbone or culminating crest of the Sierra Nevada. Two great peaks, of not widely different altitudes, look down on the Meadows. These points are Mounts Dana and Gibbs. The former is the more northerly of the two. To the right of Gibbs is another lofty and snow-burdened mountain called the White Wolf (also called Mount Morgan). The whole effect of this picture—the green level, with the rapid river coursing its length, and surrounded by the darkly timbered slopes, over which tower the shining steel-gray peaks, with banks of snow giving an added luster to their appearance—is wonderfully captivating. If there were no Yosemite and no Tenayah, the Tuolumne Meadows would, of themselves, be a sufficient cause of celebrity for the scenery of these mountains.

Soda Springs.—Towards the head of the Meadows and on the north side of the river are several chalybeate springs. The waters of these are charged with carbonic-acid gas, and are found very agreeable to the taste of most visitors. The road crosses the river above the Springs, so that the visitor must return down stream for about a quarter of a mile. This is a favorite place for camping by parties bound to or from Mount Dana or Mount Lyell. The owner, John Lembert by name, has fenced in a large piece of ground for pasture. He has built a small house over the main spring, and his own cabin will be found a curiosity in itself to persons not familiar with the modes of “roughing it” in unsettled countries. Mr. Lembert is always willing to give any information in his power to visitors. He does not keep a house for travelers, but takes pride in pointing out the various beauties of the surrounding scenery. The views from this locality are grand beyond description. A short distance above the Springs, at the side of the Meadows, is a salient point of rock to which the name of Lembert’s Peak has attached. It forms a prominent part of the scene to the eastward of the Springs.

Mt. Dana.—To reach this mountain from Soda Springs, one resumes the graded road and follows it up the northern side of the river. About three-quarters of a mile above the springs the stream forks, the left hand or northerly branch coming down from Mt. Dana and the other flowing from Mt. Lyell, off to the southeast. The wagon road leads up by the Dana branch, keeping to the left of the stream. The ride is one of unflagging interest. The turbulent rapids of the river and several emerald meadows by which one passes compose delightful foregrounds for the surrounding array of near-by and distant peaks and domes. The distance from Soda Springs to the base of Dana is between nine and ten miles. For a party without a guide the best way is to follow the wagon road to a place opposite the mountain, where woodchopping operations have been carried on and which is known as “the wood yard.” A cabin to the left of the road is passed some short time before “the wood-yard” is reached. At the latter place the traveler should turn off the road and ride directly to the foot of the mountain, crossing a small creek (dry in later summer). A good camp ground will be found among the trees at the base of the mountain. There are a number of small ponds here, and a little stream of water that runs into Dana Creek. Pasture for horses is likely to be good in the open spaces among the timber when there is but little grass on the broader meadow between the mountain and the road.

From the camp ground the visitor follows up Dana Creek, keeping it at his right hand. The hollow through which the creek descends divides Mt. Dana from Mt. Gibbs. The trail that goes up this gradually lessening depression is indistinct in many places, but there is no difficulty about threading one’s way among the rocks and stunted willow bushes. About five miles from the camp ground, and after an easy ascent of some 2000 feet, one arrives at the summit of the ridge connecting Dana and Gibbs, and which is called The Saddle. Here the horses are secured, by passing a long rope (with which the party should be provided) around one of the large boulders. that are lying at hand and fastening the halters to this rope. The last tree or bush has been passed some distance below. On the eastern side of The Saddle is a steep precipice, at the foot of which is a beautiful little lake, and the distant view between the two great peaks is an incentive to ascend still higher.

The pinnacle of Dana is 13,227 feet above the sea. The Saddle is about 11,600. From the latter place to the summit the elevation is very abrupt, especially as the top is approached. Nevertheless, the climb can easily be made by any person of average physique, care being taken not to let the feet slip on the fragmentary rock with which the upper part of the mountain is covered. A sprained ankle would be a troublesome affair to manage on this jagged hillside. The rock of the higher part of Dana is not the granite of the lower country, but a metamorphic slate of varied coloring, red and green, being the predominant hues. Many of the blocks are beautifully figured with dark green patterns resembling ferns and sprays of other plants.

Throughout the summer snow lies in patches, even on the southern face of the mountain far below the summit. A slow melting, however, goes on, and the water so produced can be heard singing among the hidden crevices between the blocks of stone under one’s feet. There is a large basin scooped out on the northern side of the mountain, and this always contains a mass of ice and snow, which is sometimes mentioned as the Dana Glacier. At the bottom of this great hole, which was once, doubtless, filled with a vast glacier, is a miniature lake of rare beauty of color.

Of all the conveniently accessible points in the High Sierra the summit of Dana commands the most far-reaching view and the one with the greatest variety of scenic character. Northeastward from the mountain, and at a depth of nearly 7000 feet below the summit, lies Mono Lake (in extent about twenty-three miles long and eighteen broad), with the surrounding valley, in which the farms with their different fields and buildings can be plainly discerned. There are a number of other smaller lakes in sight, resting among the lower mountains. It is said that on a quite clear day twenty of these bright jewels of the Sierra can be counted from the top of Dana. Beyond the Mono basin rise the ranges of Nevada, piling up one above the other and dressed with patches and ribbons of snow. Westward the eye overlooks the Tuolumne Valley and the peaks in the direction of Tenayah and the Yosemite. Northward from Dana Mounts Warren and Conness are conspicuous among an innumerable host of lesser hills. And to the south are the near-by slopes and peaks of Gibbs and the White Wolf, backed by the lengthening chain of the highest groups of the Sierra. Mt. Dana was named after Professor J. A. Dana, the distinguished geologist.

To the extreme tip of the mountain, and peeping up from among the rough splinters of rock with no apparent soil to sustain vegetation, are found several kinds of small flowering plants. Most noticeable is the Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium Confertum), whose blue and violet blossoms can nowhere else have the same appealing charm as among surroundings of a nature so tremendously in contrast with the delicate beauty of the world of flowers.

On the apex of the mountain some one has built a monument of broken rock, in the openings of which will be found several small tin boxes containing slips of paper, on which are written the names of nearly all the persons who have made the ascent.

Mount Lyell.—The difference in altitude between Mt. Dana and Mt. Lyell is inconsiderable, the accepted measurement of the latter being 13,191 feet. The summit of Lyell is, however, much more difficult to attain than that of Dana. None but the most experienced in mountain climbing should attempt it without the assistance of a guide. Lyell is reached by following up a trail that runs by the southerly branch (Lyell Creek) of the Tuolumne river, from the junction with Dana Creek near Soda Springs. Camp is made on the meadows at the base of the mountain, and as there is no trail for horses beyond this place the further ascent is made afoot. To reach the summit a glacier-like body of snow and ice, something like two miles long and half a mile wide, must be passed over. This glacier is said to move at the rate of about an inch a day. Above the everlasting snow is a pinnacle of granite about 150 feet in height, and which has been climbed by but few visitors. The southerly faces of the upper part of Mt. Lyell are sheer precipices exceeding 1000 feet in depth. Below them lie the bodies of snow whence come the highest waters of the Merced River. The view from the top of Lyell is especially fine towards the southeast, in the direction of Mt. Ritter, a peak of about equal height with Lyell and Dana, but probably exceeding either.

Cathedral Valley and Peak.—After visiting Mt. Dana or Mt. Lyell, or both, the return to Yosemite is most advisably made by way of the Cathedral Valley trail. This is reached by retracing the road past Soda Springs to the lower end of the Tuolumne Meadows, where the trail strikes off from the road in a southwesterly course. Without a guide the visitor would be likely to fail of finding the beginning of this trail, and it would be advisable to enlist the services of Mr. Lambert to point out the starting place. Once on the trail there is no particular difficulty in following it, attention being given to the “ blazes “on trees and to the pieces of rock laid up in prominent places as directory signs. After four miles of general ascent, the greater part of the way through a forest of tamaracks, the trail turns down into the Cathedral Valley. This is a beautiful meadow, with a little lake at one side, lying below the western side of Cathedral Peak.

The mass of rock called Cathedral Peak is perhaps the most impressive rock-form in the whole region surrounding Lake Tenayah and the Tuolumne Meadows. In following the route herein adopted the Cathedral first comes in sight when the tourist is approaching Tenayah from Yosemite. From the slope of the Hoffmann ridge that leads down to the lake the majestic architecture of the Cathedral is seen in the aspect which induced the adoption of that name. In the sublime view from the summit of Hoffman the Cathedral is one of the most imperial figures. It has the well-defined appearance of a regularly outlined Gothic church edifice, but of dimensions vast beyond the creative powers of man. The side wall rises vertically for upwards of a thousand feet, and the spires or slender towers at the end are hundreds of feet still higher. From the Tuolumne Meadows the Cathedral is again in view, but it does not there present the shape whence comes its most distinctive character. From the Cathedral Valley or Meadow at its base, one obtains a closer acquaintance with the huge bulk of this rock, as well as with the graceful sculpture of its shining pinnacles.

Little Yosemite.—In the Itinerary, elsewhere in this guide, the Little Yosemite is indicated as one of the places which may be visited directly from the great Valley (Routes 13 and 15). But in making the tour of the High Sierra the Little Yosemite lies conveniently in the course usually followed. Continuing along the trail through Cathedral Meadow, through Long Meadow, and over the Sunrise ridge, during which ride one is constantly surrounded by scenes of utmost interest, the junction with the Cloud’s Rest trail is reached about thirteen miles and a half from Soda Springs. About three miles further down, the trail draws near to the Merced River. Here the trail to Little Yosemite turns directly up stream. A short ride brings one to the fence inclosing the Little Yosemite, which is private property.

The name Little Yosemite is scarcely appropriate, for nothing is little in the marvellous scenery of this region. In other parts of the world the Little Yosemite would of itself be considered a sufficient attraction to invite the admiration of multitudes. Where it is, among such a superabundance of scenic riches, hundreds of persons pass by and are barely informed of the existence of such a place. It is a valley or cañon having a certain general likeness to the Yosemite in respect of its level floor and upright walls. The walls, however, are not quite so lofty, nor is the floor space so extensive as in the Yosemite proper. Neither is there such a wealth of cataracts. Grandeur and beauty there are, nevertheless, in unstinted measure.

The floor space of the Little Yosemite is between two and three miles long and about three-quarters of a mile wide. It is pretty well overgrown with timber, which is interspersed with little grassy openings. The walls are from 2000 to perhaps 3000 feet in height. At the left, after one has passed by the entrance in the fence to which the trail leads, is a grand precipice curiously and handsomely streaked with coloring like that seen on the Royal Arch wall. On the opposite side the wall is topped by two fine domes, and away at the head of the valley is the Sugar Loaf Dome, an exceptionally perfect example of this rock shape. The Merced River flows through the centre of the floor, at an elevation of over 2000 feet about its average level in the great Yosemite. Continuing up to where the river enters the Little Yosemite, one finds the stream sliding down a smooth sloping face of granite, and forming with the rapids, surging over the boulders below, a picture of exquisite beauty. This fall has been named the Silver Chain Cascade. To pass by this place on horseback is feasible but requires care, as some rather slippery inclines must be gone over. The distance so characterized extends but a few yards above the cascade. While the trail is rough, it is perfectly safe. Here the river descends through an extremely narrow gorge, one side of which is formed by the base of the Sugar Loaf Dome, along which the trail winds among a chaos of boulders.

Lost Valley.—Emerging from the upper end of this pass one finds himself in a sort of amphitheatre, heavily wooded as to the floor, and with walls of great height, and nearly vertical above the talus, arranged apparently in a complete circle. The deep shadows of these frowning cliffs together with the sombreness of the pine trees give a tone of intense gloom to this, peculiar locality, which is known by the name at the beginning of this paragraph, and which is well worthy of a visit. At the upper end of the amphitheatre the river comes tumbling and sliding down through a gap, composing a cascade, of which the lower part has much resemblance to the chute of the Silver Chain. The former is sometimes called the Gibraltar Cascade, but with what reason would he hard to imagine.

From Lost Valley and the Little Yosemite the return to the Valley may be made either by descending past the Nevada and Vernal Falls or by following the trail from the head of the Nevada Fall to Glacier Point, and thence down to the village.

CHAPTER VI.

Wawona.

The stage route from Raymond and the roads from Madera, Mariposa and elsewhere converge at this point. Ever since the discovery of Yosemite the site of Wawona (formerly Clark’s) has been famed as a resort for travelers seeking health and pleasure. Its attractions—natural and artificial—are perhaps unrivaled in the world of mountain resorts, unless by their neighbors of Yosemite. Many persons while in the mountains prefer Wawona to Yosemite as their headquarters, as it has some advantages not pertaining to the Valley, while at the same time the latter is easy of access.

Wawona means Big Tree, and the Mariposa Big Trees may he visited in an afternoon. (See Chapter on Big Trees.)

Signal Peak (the highest point of the Chowchilla Mountains) is in front, westwardly, of the Wawona Hotel. Washburn & Co., the owners of that house and of the stage line from Raymond to Yosemite, have completed a good carriage road to the very summit of the Peak. People who do not care to ascend mountains by the usual methods of walking or horseback-riding may now comfortably obtain a view which ranks with the grandest in the Sierra, overlooking not only a sea of snow-capped mountains, but the vast Valley of the San Joaquin.

The Chilnooalna Falls (distant five miles) are about 300 feet high, and are among the most exquisitely beautiful scenes of that kind. A good trail enables visitors to reach the Falls conveniently, and the ride or walk up to the Falls is by a succession of charming cascades. Days may be spent in supreme contentment in this charming place. It has been less known than it deserved to be, for until the trail was made (in ’87) the approach was laborious.

The South Fork of the Merced River runs by the Wawona Hotel. In that stream and its tributaries is an abundance of trout, so that the angler (though he be a novice) can obtain plenty of sport. Deer are quite numerous all through the neighborhood, and a hunter having an ambition to kill a bear will have no great trouble in attaining that end. Grouse and ducks are found plentifully in the vicinity.

The summer climate of Wawona (of which the altitude above the sea is about 4000 feet) is perfection itself. The heat is never excessive, while the dry atmosphere is most exhilarating. Sufferers from lung troubles derive marked benefit from the influence of this air.

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The Wawona Hotel is a constant cause of wonder by tourists. Coming up to a wild mountain region, and leaving railways far to the rear, they often expect to find rather rough and incomplete hotel accommodations. Their surprise is agreeable when they discover themselves in a house that leaves nothing to be desired by the most dainty and exacting of visitors.

The summer studio of Mr. Thos. Hill, the artist, whose fine paintings have won him a wide celebrity, is at Wawona. It is always open for the reception of visitors, and is exceedingly well worth a visit.

CHAPTER VII.

The Big Tree Groves.

The first discovery of the Big Trees of California, now so famous throughout the world, was made in October, 1849, by a Mr. Burney, who was Sheriff of Mariposa County at that time. He came across a few of these trees, probably forming part of a group in what is now Fresno County. (Bunnell’s “Discovery of the Yosemite.”) Thereafter from time to time persons exploring the mountains found grove after grove, until it was known that groups of the trees were scattered along the western front of the Sierra for a distance of about 200 miles. The groups number ten, and are known by the following names in their order from north to south: Calaveras, South Grove, Tuolumne, Merced, Mariposa, Fresno, Dinky Creek, King’s River, New King’s River, and Kaweah or Tule. Elsewhere in California these trees are not known to exist

The tree is closely related to the Redwood tree of the Coast Range of mountains. The scientific name of the Big Tree is Sequoia Gigantea, and that of the Redwood is Sequoia Sempervirens. The name Sequoia was given to the genus in honor of a Cherokee chief, who was born in Alabama about 1770 and died in 1843. He invented an alphabet for the language of his people, and in other ways labored for their civilization.

In England, where the first scientific description of the tree was published, the name given to it is Wellingtonia Gigantea. The tallest tree of any of the northern groups, and the tallest of those which have been accurately measured in any of the groups, is one called the Keystone State in the Calaveras Grove. It is, according to Professor Whitney, 325 feet in height. The trees having the greatest circumference are found in the Mariposa Grove. Some of their measurements are given below under that head.

The age of the larger of these trees is a matter of mere conjecture. Their size is not necessarily a sign of extreme age as compared with that of other kinds of trees, for they are known to be exceedingly quick of growth. People who have claimed to be able to ascertain the age of the trees by counting “the rings” of the wood have varied in their conclusions all the way from 1000 years to more than 4000 years.

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The Sequoias are easily reared from the seed in any suitable climate. There are many of them now growing in widely separate parts of the world. This fact makes all the more singular the restricted limits of their native nursery. The cone of the Big Tree is a small thing, averaging about two inches in length. It is generally accepted that three years elapse from the budding to the ripening of the seed.

The wood of the Big Tree, like that of the Redwood of the Coast Range, is valuable for its utility. When exposed to excessive moisture it is unsurpassed for durability, it is easily worked into any desired shape, is light, receives a high polish, and some specimens are beautifully marked. In its natural condition it is generally of a pale red tint. At some of the larger groves many Big Trees have been converted into marketable lumber.

The Mariposa Grove.—This group is included in a tract of land that was granted to the State of California by the United Sates in 1864. The area of land granted was four square miles, and the terms of the grant were similar to those accompanying the gift of the Yosemite Valley to the State, viz: that the place should be forever kept for public use, resort, and recreation.

The name given to the grove is due to the latter’s position in Mariposa County.

The Sequoias of this group are really divided into two

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groves, called the Lower and Upper, from their respective situations on the mountain-side whereon they grow. In the Upper Grove there are said to be 365 Big Trees measuring from a foot up to more than thirty feet in diameter. In the Lower Grove there are about half as many of considerable size. In approaching by the wagon road the Lower Grove is first visited. The trees are much more scattered than in the Upper. The Largest Sequoia in the Lower stands immediately by the road. It is called the Grizzly Giant, and its rugged, time-worn appearance is in keeping with the name. Although not so symmetrically handsome as many other trees in the grove, the Grizzly Giant is perhaps the most striking of all. It has several very large limbs, one of which, six feet or more in diameter, shoots out horizontally for some distance and then turns up abruptly to the vertical. The Grizzly Giant measures ninety-three feet and seven inches at the ground, and sixty-four feet and three inches at a height of eleven feet from the ground (Whitney’s measurement).

Passing by the Grizzly Giant and other trees of the Lower Grove, the road climbs up the hill-side, winds around through

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FIRST CABIN, MARIPOSA GROVE.

the Upper Grove so that pretty nearly all the larger trees are brought into sight, and then returns by the Lower Grove. In making the drive stages and other conveyances pass by means of a tunnel directly through the heart of a living tree. This Sequoia, called Wawona (the Indian word for Big Tree), is twenty-seven feet in diameter at the base. The tunnel through which the wagon road runs is ten feet high, and nine feet, six inches wide at the bottom, sloping in to six feet six inches at the top.

The measurements of some of the larger trees in the Mariposa Grove may be classified as below. It is, however, noteworthy that the ground circumferences of several of the largest class of trees have been much reduced from their natural sizes, fire having burned away considerable parts of their bulks. Over ninety feet in circumference at ground, three; between eighty and ninety feet, seven; between seventy and eighty feet, seven; between sixty and seventy feet, four.

There are a great many trees running from thirty feet to sixty feet in circumference, measurements having been taken accurately of only a few of them. Some trees, not measured at the ground, were found to have the following circumferences at six feet above the ground: Feet—63, 57, 51, 51, 48, 46, 46, 46, 44, 40, 40.

Names have been given to a number of the larger trees. “Washington” is a tree over ninety feet in circumference. “U. S. Grant” is about sixty-five feet around the base. “Ohio” is seventy-six feet. These two stand on either side of a log-cabin built in the grove for the use of the guardian. Four very finely shaped trees are “Longfellow,” “Whittier,” “Dana” and “Lyell.” “Harvard” is there, too, and a “General Lafayette.” “Massachusetts,” “Virginia” and “Maryland,” and the names of other States appear.

Several of the trees have been hollowed out by fire, and will readily admit the entrance of people on horseback. Sixteen horses are said (Hutchings’ “Heart of the Sierras”) to have stood at one time in the hollows of the “Haverford.”

Professor Whitney measured the height of twenty-five trees, which may fairly be called representative. The highest was 272 feet. The least altitude given by him was 187 feet. The average of all his measurements is slightly over 230 feet and seven inches. He found seven trees between 250 feet and 272 feet in height, but there are probably others somewhat exceeding the smaller measurement. He measured ten between 220 and 250 feet high.

(For roads to the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, see the Raymond, the Madera and the Mariposa routes, in the chapter concerning roads to Yosemite.)

There is no hotel at the grove, the Wawona hotel being that at which visitors by stage find accommodations. Persons leaving private conveyances, and not wishing to camp, may go either to the Wawona Hotel or to the Fish Camp house on the Madera route.

The Calaveras Grove.—(For access to this grove, see the chapter on roads to Yosemite and the Big Trees.)

Thirty-one trees have been measured in the Calaveras group. Of these there were found four respectively 325, 319, 315, and 307 feet in height. Four were between 280 and 290 feet. There were four between 270 and 280 feet; nine between 260 and 270 feet; five between 250 and 260 feet; three between 240 and 250 feet; and two between 230 and 240 feet. The average of all their heights is more than 269 feet.

In girth the largest trees of the Calaveras Grove are somewhat less than those of the Mariposa Grove.

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FELLED BY PUMP AUGERS.

There is an excellent hotel at this place, which is conveniently situated for people who wish to see a group of Big Trees without extending their trip in the direction of Yosemite.

The Tuolumne Grove.—This is a small group, numbering about thirty trees that is passed by the Milton or Big Oak Flat route to the Valley. A tunnel has been cut through a great stump, known as “The Dead Giant,” and the stages drive through the passage. Although not so remarkable as the larger groves, this one does not fail to reveal the distinguished character of the Sequoias.

The Merced Grove.—A group of Sequoias numbering about fifty, and containing many fine trees with girths of between fifty and ninety feet. The Coulterville road passes directly by this grove about sixteen miles before reaching the Yosemite Valley.

CHAPTER VIII.

Scheme of Tours in and Around the Valley.

As a rule, visitors to Yosemite come with an indistinct idea of the way in which they can dispose of their time to best advantage; that is to say, how they can, in a given time, visit with the least fatigue the most places of pre-eminent interest. To afford such information, and so to prevent the necessity of entire dependence on persons who have not always either the time or the temper or the intelligence to give clear explanations to travelers with no previous knowledge of the valley, the following itinerary or scheme of trips has been prepared. It is the result of the writer’s own experience (he having made repeated visits to nearly all the places named, going afoot as well as on horseback to them) assisted by the advice of others— ladies and men—who, by their experience, are competent to give profitable advice.

It is hoped that the routes as planned will be found comprehensive enough to meet the requirements of everybody. Variations will doubtless suggest themselves as occasion arises. The traveler would do well to make up his mind before arriving at the Valley as to the route he will follow, and if he should decide to remain longer than was expected it will be easy to select additional places to visit.

The trips marked as “Recommended” are those especially suggested to be taken by the visitor who has no preconceived fancy about his route. Such persons as wish to visit particular points within a limited time will find the needed information in the alternative trips if not in those recommended.

When stages arrive in the Valley late in the afternoon, the routes as planned below may be amended simply by omitting the recommendations for afternoon drives or rides—the routes for one day and a half thus becoming those for one day, and so through the list.

As there will be found references from one route to another— in describing the trails and points for observation—it will be well, after selecting a route, to mark it and the pages to which reference is made, when there is such reference.

It is impossible to lay out definite routes that can be recommended to all camping parties. When such party makes an excursion from camp, some members are likely to be afoot and some on horseback. Women, children and hardy men ramble in company. Nevertheless, the trips as planned will be found to require very little alteration to suit the average camping party.

Pedestrians who are good mountaineers can follow the itinerary given below closely, the writer being enabled to make that statement confidently, by his having himself walked over the ground in the time and order described in most of the routes as written.

One Afternoon.

No. 1—Recommended.—To foot of Yosemite Fall, thence to Mirror Lake and to Vernal Fall.

Directions:—Stages arrive in the Valley about noon. On the Raymond and Wawona route a telegraph can be sent before leaving Wawona, ordering Coffman & Kenney (who have the privilege of supplying visitors in the Valley with vehicles and saddle-horses) to have a conveyance at the hotel on arrival of stage. In the telegram give number of persons in the party.

After lunch in Valley, drive to the foot of Yosemite Fall; thence by Yosemite, Hunto, and Lake avenues to Mirror Lake. Thence by Tissaack avenue to the Merced bridge. Let carriage wait here. Walk up the Anderson trail, which starts from the north side of the Merced bridge, and follows the river to the Register Rock bridge, where a fine view is had of the Vernal Fall. Cross the bridge, and by trail approach foot of Vernal Fall. The distance to be walked is about 2.50 miles, going and returning. From foot of Vernal Fall return to carriage and drive to hotel by Glacier avenue.

Persons not wishing to walk may order saddle-horses instead of a carriage to be in waiting at hotel, or may use carriage to the Merced bridge, and have saddle-horses waiting there, to take them to Vernal Fall and back.

No. 2—Alternate.—By Eagle Peak trail to Columbia Rock and Upper Yosemite Fall.

Directions:—Telegraph to Coffman & Kenney in advance of arrival, (or give orders immediately on arrival at hotel in valley), for saddle horses to be at hotel after lunch. Ride to foot of Eagle Peak trail, by crossing the bridge at Barnard’s Hotel, taking the first left-hand turn, passing Hutching’s cabin, crossing the Yosemite creek, and turning to the right where the trail leaves Yosemite avenue. Ascending the trail, fasten horses to hitching stand at Columbia Rock and go out on the rock. There is here a fine view up and down the valley. Then ride to hitching stand near foot of Upper Yosemite Fall. Dismount and follow a small trail to foot of fall—a short walk. Returning, if there be time, visit foot of Lower Yosemite Fall.

The distance of the whole trip is about six miles, and can be easily made in an afternoon. When the days are long the return to the hotel from the foot of the Lower Fall can be made by way of Hunto, Tissaack and Glacier avenues, passing by Indian Cañon, the Royal Arches, Washington Tower, the Camp Ground, Glacier Point, Lamon’s Orchard and the Stoneman House (the hotel built by the State), if the traveler is stopping at another house.

This trip can sometimes be made when other trails are encumbered by snow. In the early part of the season there is at the foot of the Upper Yosemite Fall an ice cone, 500 feet high, which is one of the famous sights of the valley. Late in the summer there is little water coming over this cliff, and then, instead of this trip, the following should be taken:

No. 3—Alternative.—To Union Point, Glacier Point and return.

Directions:—Telegraph in advance, or give orders on arrival in Valley, for saddle horses to be at hotel after lunch. From the village go by Sentinel avenue to Glacier Point trail, which leaves the avenue about one mile below the village. Ascend trail to Union Point, where there is a particularly fine view. Just below this point is the Agassiz Column, a tall club-like rock, standing on end, and apparently ready to topple over with very little pressure. From here, continuing on, the trail leads up to Glacier Point. Return to Valley by same route. From the village to Glacier Point and back is a distance of between nine and ten miles. To make this trip pleasantly, five hours of daylight or more is desirable. For a comprehensive glimpse of all the famous points of the Valley and its immediate neighborhood, the ride up this trail and the view from Glacier Point are unexcelled.

Note.—For several months of each season of travel stages run between Glacier Point and Chinquapin, the latter a station on the Wawona and Raymond route from the Valley. Visitors can then ride up to Glacier Point in the afternoon, remain at the hotel there over night, sending their horses back to the Valley by a guide. In the morning take stage to Chinquapin and Wawona, arriving at the latter place in time to visit the Mariposa Big Trees on the same day. If baggage has been brought to the Valley, it can be sent back by the same route on which it came, meeting the owner at Wawona. The stages on the two routes are operated by the same company. Places in the coaches from Glacier Point should be secured at Wawona, while the visitor is on his way to the Valley, or at the stage office in the Valley, before starting for Glacier Point.

There are some noteworthy views on this road, especially that from Washburn Point.

The distance between Glacier Point and Chinquapin is thirteen miles.

When stages are not running between these two places, and when a return to the Valley is not wished, then remain at Glacier Point over night with horses and guide. In the morning take an early start and ride to Chinquapin, there taking the stage to Wawona, and letting the guide take the saddle-horses back to the Valley. The ride is not a hard one, as the road descends for the greater part of the way. But word should be left in the stage office in the Valley, in order to secure places, and to warn the stage to wait at Chinquapin should the arrival of the party be delayed.

No. 4—Alternate.—Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall and return.

Directions:—Have horses in waiting at hotel on arrival of stage. (See Directions for No. 2). Ride by Glacier avenue to Merced bridge; thence by Anderson trail, starting from north end of Merced bridge, and following up the Merced River to Register Rock bridge. Cross the bridge and follow trail up the river to Register Rock, where there is an old cabin. Fasten horses here, or leave them with the guide, and walk up to the Lady Franklin Rock, a broad flat rock at the foot of the Vernal Fall. Return to horses and ride by trail, which starts from Register Rock to Snow’s Hotel (Casa Nevada) at the foot of the Nevada Fall. On the way are seen the Emerald Pool (a short distance above the head of the Vernal Fall), the Diamond Cascade and the Silver Apron—the Apron below and the Cascade just above a bridge which is crossed before reaching Snow’s. From Snow’s return to Valley.

This trip covers about nine miles going and returning. To make it pleasantly, an early afternoon start is desirable.

If the party be accompanied by a guide, the horses may be sent in his charge from Register Rock around by trail to near the head of the Vernal Fall. The visitors may then afoot ascend the Ladders, a wooden stairway, built up at the side of the Vernal Fall, and, meeting the guide and horses above, proceed to the foot of Nevada Fall; or they may ride up the trail from Register Rock, and descend afoot by the Ladders, sending the horses down the trail with the guide.

No. 5—Alternate.—Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall and Glacier Point.

Directions:—This trip includes more than can be seen in any other way in the same time. But only persons who are not easily fatigued, or who do not mind fatigue, should undertake it for one afternoon; and, unless the visitor does not dislike a chance of riding after nightfall, the trip should only be attempted with at least five clear hours of daylight from time of leaving the hotel.

Have horses awaiting arrival of stage in Valley. (See Directions for No. 2). Ride to Casa Nevada, as in Directions No. 4; thence to head of Nevada Fall and by Echo Wall trail, passing Tooloolaweack Creek and Fall to Glacier Point.

Remain at Glacier Point Hotel over night, and in morning take stage or ride to Chinquapin, as in Note to No. 3.

One Day and a Half.

No. 6—Recommended.—First Afternoon.—By Eagle Peak trail to Columbia Rock and Upper Yosemite Fall.

Directions:—As given for No. 2.

Second Day.—Mirror Lake, Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall, and Glacier Point.

Directions:—Drive to Mirror Lake; thence to Merced bridge, where saddle-horses should be in waiting. (Orders for a carriage and for horses at the bridge should be given on the night before.) From Merced bridge take Anderson trail to Vernal Fall and to Casa Nevada as in directions for No. 4. Lunch at Casa Nevada (Snow’s hotel.) Then take trail to head of Nevada Fall, and by Echo Wall trail to Glacier Point, passing Tooloolaweack Creek and the Fall of the same name.

From Glacier Point descend to Valley, or remain overnight and take stage in the morning as in Note to No. 3.

The round distance of this trip, if return be made to the Valley, is about seventeen miles, of which about thirteen must be made on horseback. The other part of the distance being the carriage ride to Mirror Lake. It is rather a hard excursion for persons not used to horseback riding in the mountains, but it will amply repay any amount of fatigue.

The visit to Mirror Lake may be omitted in the late Summer and Fall, as the lake has then little water in it, and is apt to be disappointing to visitors.

This trip may be made in reverse order by ascending the Glacier Point trail and returning by way of Nevada and Vernal Falls.

No. 7—Alternate.—First Afternoon.—By Eagle Peak trail to Columbia Rock and foot of Upper Yosemite Fall. Directions as for No. 2.

Second Day.—Mirror Lake, Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall and return to Valley. Directions as for No. 6.

An easy trip for persons not used to riding, and affording time to enjoy, at one’s leisure, the scenes visited.

No. 8—Alternate.—First Afternoon.—Same as in No. 7.

Second Day.—To Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome.

Directions:—Same as for No. 3 as far as Glacier Point. Lunch at Glacier Point and then ride by trail to Sentinel Dome (distance to Dome and back about 2.50 miles) whence return to Point and back to Valley by same route. Or, as in note to No. 3.

No. 9—Alternate.—First Afternoon—Vernal and Nevada Falls.

Directions as in No. 4 as far as Snow’s Hotel. Remain there over night.

Second Day.—To Cloud’s Rest and return to Valley.

Directions:—Leave Snow’s in the morning provided with a lunch that can be carried on the saddle. Take Cloud’s Rest trail, passing up by Nevada Fall. Turn off Cloud’s Rest trail to visit the head of the Nevada Fall. There is a sign-board at the turn-off. Then come back to Cloud’s Rest trail and follow it to the summit. Without a guide it is necessary to be careful in following the Cloud’s Rest trail, as there are others leading to Little Yosemite and to Sunrise Ridge. The Cloud’s Rest trail keeps to the left ascending, the others to the right.

The distance from Snow’s to the summit of Cloud’s Rest is 7.18 miles. From the summit back to the hotels in Valley is from eleven to twelve miles.

Two Days and a Half.

No. 10—Recommended.—First Afternoon— Lower Round Drive.

Directions:—On arrival at hotel order a carriage to be waiting after lunch. Drive around the lower end of Valley, going first by way of Sentinel and Cathedral avenues to the foot of Bridal Veil Fall. Return on the opposite side of the Merced River, after crossing by Pohono bridge, and visit foot of Lower Yosemite Fall. If an early start be made and the day is a long one, the drive may be extended down the Valley as far as the Cascade Fall.

Second Day.—Eagle Peak or Yosemite Point.

Directions:—Have horses engaged on the preceding evening. Provide a lunch that can be carried on the saddle. Ride to foot of Eagle Peak trail by crossing the bridge at Barnard’s. hotel, and following Meadow avenue until it unites with Yosemite avenue. Turn to the left, and pass by the Hutchings Cabin; cross the Yosemite Creek bridge and take the Nagle Peak trail, which turns to the right from the avenue, about a quarter of a mile below the bridge. Ascending the trail to Columbia Rock, fasten horses to hitching bar and go out on the Rock. Then on horseback retake the trail to the next hitching bar, which is near the foot of Upper Yosemite Fall. A small foot-path leads out to the foot of the Fall.

Returning to horses from the Fall, follow the trail up to Eagle Peak. There is a side trail, marked by a board, that leads off to the head of the Yosemite Fall. About three-quarters of a mile further up, the trail forks again. Take the left-hand branch, which leads to Eagle Meadow and Eagle Peak. The right-hand branch goes to Lake Tenayah.

On descending from the Peak a visit may be made to the head of the Yosemite Fall.

The trip may also be extended to Yosemite Point. The trail to that place branches off to the left from the one going out to the head of the Fall, and leads to a bridge by which Yosemite Creek is crossed. As, however, the trip to Eagle Peak involves in itself about as much exercise as the average visitor cares to take in one day, besides occupying a full day’s time to be made without excessive hurry, it is advisable not to insist on going to Yosemite Point. Or, if it is wished to visit that Point, go there and omit going up to Eagle Peak.

Third Day.—Mirror Lake, Vernal and Nevada Falls and Glacier Point.

Directions:—Same as for second day of No. 6.

This route involves two days of riding which may be too severe for persons unaccustomed to the saddle. The following routes for two days and a half are easier, and thoroughly satisfactory as regards their comprehensiveness.

No. 11—Alternate.—First Afternoon—Lower Round Drive, as in No. 10.

Second Day.—Mirror Lake, Vernal and Nevada Falls.

Directions:—As for second day of No. 6 as far as Snow’s, at Nevada Fall. (Also see No. 4) Lunch there and return to Valley.

Third Day—Glacier Point.

Directions:—Ordering horses on the preceding day or evening, follow directions as in No. 3.

No. 12—Alternate.—First Afternoon—Lower Round Drive, as directed in No. 10.

Second Day.—Eagle Peak or Yosemite Point, as directed in No. 10.

Third Day.—Mirror Lake, Vernal and Nevada Falls, as for second day of No. 11.

For Three Days and a Half.

No. 13—Recommended.—First Afternoon. Lower Round Drive. See first afternoon of No. 10.

Second Day.—Eagle Peak or Yosemite Point, as per second day of No. 10.

Third Day.—Mirror Lake, Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall and Cloud’s Rest.

Directions:—Being provided with a lunch, drive to Mirror Lake and thence to Merced bridge, where saddle-horses should be in waiting. A carriage for the drive to the Lake and saddle-horses should be ordered on the preceding evening. In the autumn, Mirror Lake being then very shallow, that part of the trip may be omitted, and saddle-horses taken direct from the hotel.

Follow directions given in No. 4 as far as Casa Nevada, at foot of Nevada Fall; thence take trail to Cloud’s Rest, passing up by the Nevada Fall.

Without a guide visitors must be careful in following the Cloud’s Rest trail, as there are others leading off from it to the head of Nevada Fall, to the Little Yosemite and to Sunrise Ridge. The Cloud’s Rest trail keeps to the left, ascending; the others to the right.

From the summit of Cloud’s Rest return to Casa Nevada, and remain there over night.

Fourth Day.—Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome.

Directions:—Take trail to head of Nevada Fall, thence by Echo Wall trail, passing Tooloolaweack Cañon and the Fall of the same name, to Glacier Point. Dine at the Point. In the afternoon ride to Sentinel Dome, which is less than a mile and a quarter distant from the Point. Returning, descend to the Valley by the Glacier Point trail; or, remain over night at the Point and take stage for Chinquapin on the following morning, as directed in Note, Tour No. 3.

No. 14—Alternate.—First Afternoon. Lower Round Drive, as directed in No. 10.

Second Day.—Eagle Peak or Yosemite Point, as in No. 10.

Third Day.—Mirror Lake, Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall, Little Yosemite and Lost Valley.

Directions:—Drive to Mirror Lake early in the morning by Meadow, Hunto and Lake avenues, passing by Indian Cañon, the Royal Arches, Washington Column and the Camp Ground. From Mirror Lake drive to Merced bridge, where saddle-horses should be in waiting. (Carriage and horses should be ordered on the preceding evening.) From Merced bridge ride by Anderson trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls. (See Tour No. 4.) Lunch at Casa Nevada. In the afternoon ride up to head of Nevada Fall and to the Little Yosemite and Lost Valley. (The two last named places are not at present as well known as some other parts of the Valley, but are very interesting.)

The trail for Little Yosemite leaves the Cloud’s Rest trail where the latter turns away from the river.

From Little Yosemite return to Snow’s (Casa Nevada), and remain over night.

Fourth Day.—Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome, as for fourth day of No. 13.

No. 15—Alternate.—First Afternoon. Lower Round Drive, as in No. 10.

Second Day.—Eagle Peak or Yosemite Point, as in No. 10.

Third Day.—Cloud’s Rest, as in third day of No. 13; or Nevada Fall and Little Yosemite, as in third day of No. 14. But in either case, instead of remaining over night at Snow’s, return to Valley.

Fourth Day.—Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome, as directed in No. 3.

Four Days and a Half.

No. 16—Recommended.—First Afternoon.—Lower Round Drive, as in No. 10.

Second Day.—Eagle Peak or Yosemite Pt., as for second day of No. 10.

Third Day—Glacier Pt. and Sentinel Dome.

Directions:—From the hotel take Sentinel avenue to foot of Glacier Point trail, which leaves the avenue about one mile below the village. Ascend trail to Union Pt., thence Glacier Pt., in time for lunch. In the afternoon visit Sentinel Dome, and return to Glacier Pt. Hotel. Remain there over night.

Fourth Day.—Head of Nevada Fall, Little Yosemite, Lost Cañon, and Casa Nevada.

Directions:—Provide a lunch that can be carried on the saddle. Ride by Echo Wall trail to the head of Nevada Fall, and cross the river, continuing on until the Cloud’s Rest trail is entered. Turn to the right up the Cloud’s Rest trail and follow it until it leaves the river. There take the little Yosemite trail and follow it up to and through a fence that runs across the Valley. Continue up the Little Yosemite Valley, keeping the river (Merced) on the right hand, to the Silver Chain Cascade. Pass the Cascade and follow trail to Lost Valley. At the upper end of Lost Valley is another Fall worthy of a visit, known as the Gibraltar Cascade.

Returning, follow-back the same trail by which the ascent was made, and, passing by the turn-off to the head of the Nevada Fall to Snow’s (Casa Nevada), at the foot of that Fall. Remain there over night.

Fifth Day.—Cloud’s Rest and return to Valley by Vernal Fall.

Directions:—Same as for second day of No. 9, omitting, however, the visit to head of Nevada Fall. See also No. 4.

No. 17—Alternate.—First Afternoon. Lower Round Drive, as in No. 10.

Second Day.—Eagle Peak or Yosemite Point, as in No. 10.

Third Day.—Cloud’s Rest and return to Casa Nevada.

Directions:—Same as for third day of No. 13.

Fourth Day.—Head of Nevada Fall, Little Yosemite and Lost Valleys, and return to hotel in Yosemite Valley.

Directions:—Provide a lunch to be carried with the party, Take trail passing up by Nevada Fall, (Cloud’s Rest Trail); turn off to head of Fall at the first side trail. There is a sign-board at the turn-off. After visiting head of Nevada Fall return to Cloud’s Rest trail and continue up it until it leaves the river; there take the Little Yosemite trail. (See fourth day in No. 16.) From Little Yosemite return to hotel in Yosemite Valley.

Fifth Day.—Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome.

Directions:—Same as in No. 3. See Note to same. But lunch at Glacier Point, and in the afternoon visit Sentinel Dome.

No. 18—Alternate.—First Afternoon. Lower Round Drive or Mirror Lake.

Directions:—Same as in first afternoon of No. 10; or drive to Mirror Lake by way of Glacier and Tissaack avenues, returning by way of the foot of Yosemite Falls.

Second Day.—Lake Tenayah by Eagle Peak trail.

Directions:—Provide a lunch to be carried on saddle, and make an early start, having engaged horses on the preceding day. Ride to Eagle Peak trail, and follow directions given for second day of No. 10, as far as the forks, there mentioned, of the trails to Eagle Peak and Tenayah. Take the right hand trail, which in about five miles leads to a wagon road. The trail is “blazed”—that is, there are marks chopped on the trees—but the path is in places difficult to follow, unless by experienced mountain travelers. (A guide is indispensable on this tour to the ordinary visitor.) The trail crosses Yosemite Creek shortly after leaving the forks above mentioned. Between three and four miles further on it crosses the lower end and runs along the edge of a meadow or flat called Deer Park, keeping in the timber by the meadow until near the upper end. Then a rocky ridge has soon to be crossed, and a visitor without a guide must here be watchful of the trail and the “blazes,” as the former is likely to be much obscured by sheep trails. After crossing this ridge one comes to Porcupine Flat. and, crossing a small creek, arrives at the wagon road. Keeping to the right, this road leads to Lake Tenayah. Here the traveler will find accommodation for the night at Murphy’s. Distance from Valley to Tenayah, sixteen miles.

Third Day.—To Cloud’s Rest and Nevada Falls.

Directions:—Instruct guide to take Murphy’s short trail to Cloud’s Rest. This trail is seldom followed, and some of the guides may not be conversant with it., but they can be directed by Mr. Murphy to it.

From Cloud’s Rest descend to Snow’s Hotel at the Nevada Fall, visiting the head of that Fall before descending to the hotel at the foot.

Fourth Day—Little Yosemite and back to Valley by Vernal Fall.

Directions:—As for fourth day of No. 16.

Fifth Day.—Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome.

Directions:—Same as in No. 3, but lunch at Glacier Point, and in the afternoon visit Sentinel Dome and return to Valley. Or, as in Note to No. 3.

Note.—This tour has not often been made as here arranged, but is one of the most comprehensive and satisfactory possible in the time given. It involves no hard riding, the ride from the Valley to Tenayah being the longest for one day. Such toilet articles as are needed may readily be carried on the saddle.

Five Days and a Half.

No. 19—Same throughout as No. 18, except on day after arrival at Lake Tenayah make the ascent of Mount Hoffmann and return to Murphy’s at Lake Tenayah, remaining there a second night. For Mt. Hoffmann see chapter on the High Sierra.

Six Days and a Half.

No. 20—Same throughout as No. 19, except on second day after arrival at Lake Tenayah, ride up to Soda Springs, on the Tuolumne Meadows, returning to Murphy’s and remaining there a third night. For Soda Springs and Tuolumne Meadows see chapter on the High Sierra.

CHAPTER IX.

Camping Tours.

The following tours require the traveler to be provided with a pack-horse and a camping outfit. The latter may be a very slight affair. A sufficiency of bedding should be had, but canned edibles, and others needing little preparation by cooking, may be taken, thus preventing the need of many utensils. Bedding and other parts of the outfit may be obtained for temporary use in the Valley. Edible provisions may be bought at the store in the Valley. Horses will be furnished at special rates by the person authorized to supply them. One pack-horse will carry an outfit for several people. A guide is indispensable to persons not familiar with mountain travel.

The furthest objective point is Mt. Dana. Travel over these routes is generally possible from the beginning of May until the end of October.

To Mt. Dana (Five Days).—First Day—Lake Tenayah by Eagle Peak trail as directed in No. 18, preceding chapter. 16 miles.

Second Day—Tuolumne Meadows, Soda Springs, and foot of Mt. Dana. 18 miles. See chapter on the High Sierra.

Third Day—Ascend Mt. Dana, and again camp at foot. 16 miles, or less according to camp ground.

Fourth Day—Back by road to lower end of Tuolumne Meadows; thence by Cathedral Valley trail to Long Meadow or any convenient camp ground. About 15 miles.

Fifth Day—To Yosemite Valley by Nevada and Vernal Falls. About 17 miles.

To Mt. Dana (Six Days).—Same as foregoing, except that on the day after arrival at Tenayah the ascent of Mt. Hoffmann should be made, and a second night passed at Tenayah.

To Mt. Lyell.—The same route as that to Dana as far as Soda Springs, whence keep up the right hand branch of the Tuolumne River. Returning, follow directions for Dana trip. Time the same.

Grand Tour (Ten Days).—First Day—Lake Tenayah by Eagle Peak trail.

Second Day—Ascend Mt. Hoffmann and return to Tenayah.

Third Day—By Tuolumne Meadows to foot of Mt. Dana.

Fourth Day—Ascent of Dana.

Fifth Day—Base of Mt. Lyell.

Sixth Day—Ascent of Lyell.

Seventh Day—Return to Soda Springs.

Eighth Day—To Little Yosemite.

Ninth Day—Ascend Cloud’s Rest and return to Little Yosemite.

Tenth Day—To Valley by way of Glacier Point or Nevada Fall.

Table of Distances.

From the Guardian’s office, in the village, the distances to various points are in miles as follows:

Bridal Veil Fall

4.04

Cascade Falls

7.67

Cloud’s Rest, Summit

11.81

Columbia Rock, on Eagle Peak trail

1.98

Dana, Mt., Summit

40.34

Eagle Peak

6.59

El Capitan Bridge

3.63

Glacier Point, direct trail

4.45

Glacier Point, by Nevada Falls

16.98

Lyell, Mt., Summit

38.20

Merced Bridge

2.03

Mirror Lake, by Hunt’s avenue

2.91

Nevada Fall (hotel)

4.63

Nevada Fall, Bridge above

5.45

Pohono Bridge

5.29

Register Rock

3.24

Ribbon Fall

3.99

Rocky Point (base of Three Brothers)

1.45

Tenayah Creek Bridge

2.26

Tenayah Lake

16.00

Yosemite Falls, foot

0.90

Yosemite Falls, foot Upper Fall

2.67

Yosemite Falls, top

4.33

Soda Springs (Eagle Peak Trail)

24.50

Sentinel Dome

5.57

Union Point, on Glacier Point Trail

3.13

Vernal Fall

3.50

MAXIMUM RATES FOR TRANSPORTATION

The following rates for transportation in and about the Valley have been established by the Board of Commissioners:

SADDLE HORSES.

From

Route to

Amount.

Valley

Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome, and return, direct, same day

$3 00

Valley

Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, and Fissures, and return, direct, same day

3 75

Valley

Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, and Fissures, passing night at Glacier Point

3 00

Valley

Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, Nevada Fall, and Casa Nevada, passing night at Casa Nevada

3 00

Valley

Glacier Point, Sentinel Dome, Nevada Fall, Vernal Fall and thence to Valley same day

4 00

Glacier Point

Valley direct

2 00

Glacier Point

Sentinel Dome, Nevada Fall, and Casa Nevada, passing night at Casa Nevada

2 00

Glacier Point

Sentinel Dome, Nevada Fall, Vernal Fall, and thence to Valley same day

2 00

Valley

Summits, Vernal, and Nevada Falls, direct, and return to Valley same day

3 00

Valley

Glacier Point by Casa Nevada, passing night at Glacier Point,

3 00

Valley

Summits, Vernal, and Nevada Falls, Sentinel Dome, Glacier Point, and thence to Valley same day

4 00

Valley

Cloud’s Rest and return to Casa Nevada

3 00

Valley

Cloud’s Rest and return to Valley same day

5 00

Casa Nevada

Cloud’s Rest and return to Casa Nevada or Valley same day

3 00

Casa Nevada

Valley direct

2 00

Casa Nevada

Nevada Fall, Sentinel Dome, and Glacier Point, passing night at Glacier Point

2 00

Valley

Nevada Fall, Sentinel Dome, Glacier Point, and Valley same day

3 00

Upper Yosemite Fall, Eagle Peak, and return

3 00

Charge for Guide (including horse), when furnished

3 00

Saddle horses, on level of Valley, per day

2 50

1. The above charges do not include feed for horses when passing night at Casa Nevada or Glacier Point.

2. Where Valley is specified as starting point, the above rates prevail from any hotel in Valley, or from the foot of any trail.

3. Any shortening of above trips, without proportionate reduction of rates, shall be at the option of those hiring horses.

4. Trips other than those above specified shall be subject to special arrangement between letter and hirer.

CARRIAGES.

From

Route to

Amount.

Hotels

Mirror Lake and return, direct

$1 00

Hotels

Mirror Lake and return by Tissaack Avenue

1 25

Hotels

Mirror Lake and return to foot of Trail, to Vernal and Nevada Falls

1 00

Hotels

Bridal Veil Fall and return, direct

1 00

Hotels

Pohono Bridge, down either side of Valley, and return on opposite side, stopping at Yosemite and Bridal Veil Falls

1 50

Hotels

Cascade Falls, down either side of Valley. and return on opposite side, stopping at Yosemite and Bridal Veil Falls

2 25

Hotels

Artist Point and return, direct, stopping at Bridal Veil Fall

2 00

Hotels

New Inspiration Point and return, direct, stopping at Bridal Veil Fall

2 00

Grand Round Drive, including Yosemite and Bridal Veil Falls, excluding Lake and Cascade,

2 50

Grand Round Drive, including Yosemite and Bridal Veil Falls, Lake, and Cascades

3 50

1. When the value of the seats hired in any vehicle shall exceed $15 for a two-horse team, or $25 for a four-horse team, for any trip in the above schedule, the persons hiring the seats shall have the privilege of paying no more than the aggregate sums of $15 and $25 per trip for a two-horse and four-horse team, respectively.

2. If saddle horses should be substituted for any of the above carriage trips carriage rates will apply to each horse. In no case shall the per diem charge of $2.50 for each saddle horse, on level of Valley, be exceeded.

Any excess of the above rates, as well as any extortion, incivility, misrepresentation, or the riding of unsafe animals, should be promptly reported at the Guardian’s office.

Ads

Tourists’ Route to Yosemite.

THE SHORTEST, QUICKEST AND BEST.

All Rail Line to Berenda and Raymond.

Thence by Stage to Wawona, the Bid Trees, Inspiration Point and the Valley.

The railway to Raymond, in the lower mountains, enables visitors. to avoid the long and disagreeable stage drive over the hot and dusty San Joaquin plains.

This is the Only Stage Route to the Mariposa.
Big Trees and to the Famous
Glacier Point.

PULLMAN PALACE SLEEPING CARS run daily between San Francisco and Raymond, via Berenda.

Leave San Francisco at 7 p. m.; arrive Berenda 3 a. m. Sleeping cars. remain at Berenda until 6:15 a. m.; arrive at Raymond at 7 a. m. After passengers have had breakfast stages start, and arrive at Grant’s about noon, for dinner, and at Wawona at 5:30. Remain over night at Wawona, and leave at 7 a. m. for the Valley, which is reached at noon, enabling, tourists to see the rainbow effects of the Bridal Veil Fall.

Tickets sold to enter the Valley by the Berenda and Wawona Route, and to return by the Milton Route; or to enter by the Milton Route, and return by Wawona and Berenda.

For all particulars and tickets, call on

SAM MILLER,
Tourist and Ticket Agent,
613 Market Street, Under Grand Hotel,
SAN FRANCISCO.

Pacific Surety Company

OF CALIFORNIA.

Paid Up Capital,
$100.000.

Wallace Everson,
President,
John Birmingham,
Vice-President,
A. P. Redding,
Secretary.

HEAD OFFICE:

328 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, Cal.

BONDS—This Company issues bonds guaranteeing the honesty of persons holding positions of trust. Also bonds required in Court proceedings.

ACCIDENT INSURANCE on all approved plans.

FISH CAMP,

MARIPOSA CO., CAL.

ALBERT PHILP, - Proprietor.

THIS NOTED AND DELIGHTFUL MOUNTAIN RESORT for anglers, hunters and other seekers for health and pleasure is on Big Creek, a branch of the Merced. The place has long been known as one of the most attractive in the Sierra.

It is on the Madera route to Yosemite (62 miles from Madera); also reached by way of Raymond Station. Splendidly graded roads and no tolls to pay.

Only three miles from the Mariposa Big Trees. No other hotel or good camp ground so near the grove.

Fish Camp is near the foot of Mt. Raymond and is the headquarters (the only hotel) for visitors to the celebrated mines of that mountain.

HAY AND GRAIN FOR SALE.

Campers’, Ranchers’ and Miners’ Supplies

Of all kinds at reasonable prices.

MAXWELL & LEONARD,

RAYMOND, FRESNO CO.,   -   -   CALIFORNIA.

(Terminus Yosemite Branch R. R.)

HOTEL, RESTAURANT

—AND—
COUNTRY STORE.

Comfortable Meals at 50 Cts.

Stable and Corral Accommodations. Hay and Grain at Low Prices.

Conveyances furnished to any part of the mountains.

Charges reasonable.

Stages for Coarse Gold Gulch and Fresno Flats

START FROM THIS HOUSE.

Campers bound for the Big Trees and Yosemite will find the route by Raymond the best. From Raymond via Fresno Flats and Fish Camp to the Big Trees there are no tolls. The roads are good grades.

Madera, Fresno County, California.

Fresno County comprises 8000 square miles in the best part of the State—the South Central Division. The county limits reach from the Summit of the Sierra Nevada down to and across the San Joaquin Valley and up to the crest of the Coast Range.

The county is divided into two nearly equal parts by the San Joaquin River. Of the Northern, and naturally the richest half, Madera is the chief town. It is almost at the center of that half of the county, out of which a new county will soon be formed, when Madera will be the county seat.

The town is the site of a great lumber industry, the lumber being cut in the mountains and floated down to Madera by means of a V-flume, 65 miles long. This is also an important shipping point for cattle and sheep, hides and wool, wheat and barley, wines, fruit and other merchandise Surrounding the town is the richest kind of land, which produces abundantly almost every grain, fruit and garden vegetable known to the United States. A considerable tract of land is already under irrigation, and a scheme is now forming for irrigating a still more extensive body of the finest farming land in California

Land here is as yet cheap, so that the country offers strong attractions for the capitalist with an eye to speculation, or for the man of small means who desires to make a home.

The main line of the Southern Pacific Railway passes through Madera, which is 185 miles from San Francisco.

The healthfulness of Madera and its neighborhood is noted by all observers.

There are good Schools, Churches and other adjuncts of civilized society.

TOWN LOTS AND FARMING LAND

FOR SALE BY

O. T. REDFIELD,

ATTORNEY AT LAW AND NOTARY PUBLIC,
AT THE
“MADERA LAND OFFICE,”

MADERA, FRESNO CO.,   -   -   -   CALIFORNIA.

All Collections promptly attended to.

THE HILDRETH GOLD MINES.

DIRECT STAGE ROUTE TO THIS FAMOUS CAMP.

Daily Stages leave Madera, Fresno Co., 185 miles from San Francisco, on the Southern Pacific Railway. Leave Madera (Yosemite House) at 6 a. m. Arrive at Hildreth, 12 m. Leave Hildreth at 1 p. m. Arrive at Madera, 6 p. m.

MATT MEDILL,   -   -   -   -   Proprietor.

ANGELO CAVAGNARO,

Yosemite Falls Store

YOSEMITE VALLEY.

A Complete Assortment of All Goods Wanted by Campers and Tourists

GROCERIES, CLOTHING, TOBACCOS, FISHING TACKLE, CAMP UTENSILS, et cetera.

Prices Much Reduced from Former Years.

Campers will find it to their advantage to purchase supplies here.

B. M. LEITCH,

WAWONA, MARIPOSA CO.,   -   CALIFORNIA.

SPECIMENS

of California Woods, Cones and Other Curiosities.
Photographic Views, Guide Books and other literature concerning Yosemite, Wawona and the Big Trees.

http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/mackenzie/