Pathways: A Story of Trails and Men (1968), by John W. Bingaman

- Title Page

- Acknowledgements

- Foreword

- Preface

- Contents

- 1. Pioneer Trails of the West

- 2. Traders, Trail Breakers, Mountain Men, & Pathmarkers of the West

- 3. First Explorer of Yosemite Valley, James D. Savage

- 4. First Tourist Party in Yosemite

- 5. Yosemite Trails

- 6. Excerpts from Reports of Army Officers & Acting Superintendents

- 7. Harry Coupland Benson

- 8. Gabriel Sovulewski, Dean of Trail Builders, and Frank B. Ewing

- 9. Crises in Trail Maintenance

- 10. My Last Patrol

- Bibliography

- Maps

About the Author

John Bingaman at Merced Grove
Ranger Station, 1921 (From
Sargent’s Protecting Paradise).

John W. Bingaman was born June 18, 1896 in Ohio. He worked for the railroad in New York and California, then made tanks and combines during World War I. He first worked in Yosemite starting in 1918 as a packer and guide. John was appointed park ranger in 1921 and worked in several parts of Yosemite National Park. His wife Martha assisted her husband during the busy summer season. John retired in 1956. After retiring he lived in the desert in Southern California and spent summers touring various mountain areas and National Parks with their trailer. In retirement he wrote this book, Pathways, Guardians of the Yosemite: A Story of the First Rangers (1961), and The Ahwahneechees: A Story of the Yosemite Indians (1966). His autobiography is on pages 98-99 of Guardians of the Yosemite. John’s second wife was Irene. John Bingaman died April 5, 1987 in Stockton, California.

Bibliographical Information

John W. Bingaman (1896-1987), Pathways: A Story of Trails and Men (Lodi, California: End-kian Publishing Col, 1968), Copyright 1968 by John W. Bingaman. LCCN 68031255. 8+51+3 pages. Illustrated. 22 cm. Bound in green paper wrappers; saddle-stitched. Cover graphics is a duplicate of the title page. Library of Congress call number F868.Y6 B52.

Copyright

Digitized by Dan Anderson, June 2005, from a copy at the San Diego Public Library. These files may be used for any non-commercial purpose, provided this notice is left intact.
—Dan Anderson, www.yosemite.ca.us

Despite extensive research, I have been unable to identify all the possible rights holders of this book. Thus, some of the materials provided here online are made available under an assertion of fair use (17 U.S.C. §107). Therefore, this book is provided strictly for noncommercial educational and research purposes. The responsibility for making an independent legal assessment and independently securing any necessary permissions ultimately rests with persons desiring to use particular items in the context of the intended use.

I would like to learn more about materials in this book and would like to hear from individuals or institutions that have any additional information. Please contact Dan Anderson.

PATHWAYS

A Story of Trails and Men

JOHN W. BINGAMAN

District Ranger (Retired) Yosemite National Park
California

Copyright     1968
By JOHN W. BINGAMAN

All rights reserved, including the right to
reproduced this book or portions thereof in any
form without permission from the publisher.

First Edition — Date: June, 1968

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 68-31255

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA BY
END-KIAN PUBLISHING CO., LODI, CALIFORNIA

Dedicated to GABRIEL SOVULEWSKI
Dean of Trail Builders

HE CARED NOT WHETHER THEY PUT A MONUMENT
OVER HIS GRAVE AFTER HE WAS GONE: HIS REAL
MONUMENT WAS UP THERE ON THE MOUNTAINS AND
THE TRAILS THAT LEAD INTO THE HIGH SIERRAS WHICH
VISITORS WILL BE USING FOR MANY GENERATIONS.

Acknowledgements

Among all those who have assisted me so generously in writing this book are my colleagues and friends, Mr. Carl P. Russell, Mrs. Carl P. Russell, Mr. Hil Oehlmann, Marie Duncan, and Vi Watson. I also thank the following for granting permission to quote copyright material from their publications: C. Frank Brockman from his “Development of Transportation” and “The Era of Trails” in Yosemite Nature Notes, 1943; Carl P. Russell from his “100 Years in Yosemite”. The Yosemite Natural History Association and its publication “Nature Notes”; James M. Hutchings’ “In the Heart of the Sierras 1888”; Allan Nevins in his “Fremont”. Letters from Gabriel Sovulewski, Francis Farquhar, and Kenneth J. Fryer were a great source of information.

I have been asked many times, “Just who influenced you most?” There were many who have encouraged me and given me a desire to strive for the very best under all circumstances. It was pioneering from the beginning, and it took strength and determination to do and accomplish almost unbelievable odds at times in the first years of my career.

It was men like Stephen T. Mather, first Director of National Parks, and Horace Marden Albright, Assistant Director under Mather and then Director after Mather’s death. I will never forget how Mr. Albright imbued me with the real “Spirit of the Service”. Of course W. B. Lewis, our first Park Service superintendent, who had the responsibility of organizing the park administration, encouraged me. Carl P. Russell, Park Naturalist and later Superintendent of Yosemite, urged me to write about my experiences. His insistence brought about my “Guardians of the Yosemite”. Russell’s death in June, 1967, was a great loss to our heritage. He had added generously to the historical writings of Yosemite and Western Americana. Later came ‘Colonel Charles Goff Thomson, a man of Military experience and a real disciplinarian, who met the challenge of greater park expansion.

I am also indebted to a number of career Yosemite Park and Curry Company officers, such as Mother Curry, her daughter Mary, and Mary’s husband Donald B. Tresidder, who became president of the Company after the death of Mother Curry. Then Hil Oehlmann became General Manager and guided the Company business to a thriving and important concession that functioned through the many years in spite of the difficult problems of administering the needs of more than a million visitors a year. Presently, over two million tourists a year enjoy the park.

Our park superintendents, our rangers, and park employees have played such an important part in the protection and administration of Yosemite National Park. I could not begin to mention all their names. So with the cooperation of all, let us keep the “Spirit of the Service” to maintain the Service in its original form for today and for the generations to come.

The Author

FOREWORD

This delightful book on trails and trail-riding must surely have wide appeal to our American people who seek opportunities for outdoor recreation in hiking or riding on horses or mules, or merely leading a lightly packed little burro into secluded valleys or among crags near or above timberline in the Sierra Nevada, Cascades, Rockies, and of the eastern mountains.

Since the passage of the Wilderness Act of 1964, trails have been more than ever in the minds of people, old or young; those able to enjoy them, or shut-ins who have fond memories of days on their steep or winding routes; for in the halls of Congress today are bills to establish a national trail system. Many State Legislatures and even county officers consider the need for means to get away from the confusion, noise and dangers of highway travel. The proposed national trail system when authorized would include the famous Appalachain Trail, running from Maine to Georgia; the John Muir Trail, from Yosemite to Sequoia National Park, and others in mountain areas of other regions of our vast country.

New legislation also pending is designed to preserve many wild rivers which would remain free of highways close to their pristine banks, although trails would naturally follow them in many cases.

Emphasis, of course, will continue to be put on the historic trails of the western movement across our land, among them the Santa Fe, the Mormon, the Oregon, the Pony Express Trails, and others bearing the names of great explorers—Lewis and Clark, Fremont, Bozeman, Lassen and McKenzie and others too numerous to mention here.

Retired Park Ranger John W. Bingaman in his book writes from long experience on mountain trails and deep and abiding love of the high country, the majestic forests and valleys with wild creeks and rivers. This book means much to me for I have ridden and hiked trails with both forest and park rangers, including John Bingaman, and Gabriel Sovulewski, the master trail builder. Surely it will encourage still wider use of trails, and will arouse nostalgia in those of us who can no longer safely follow them with expectant thrills and the enjoyment of just being out of range of the noise and smog of modern civilization.

Horace Marden Albright
(Former Director of National Parks)

PREFACE

The following reports, accounts, sketches, and material may serve as an authentic source of information that otherwise would be lost to future generations.

Therefore I am writing this historical information obtained from various journals, pamphlets, Army Officers reports, Yosemite Nature Notes, and my personal diary. In my long tenure, 35 years a Yosemite Ranger, I have accumulated valuable historical information on the beginning of trail and road building in the Yosemite National Park, and a few men that shared in this experience.

When I was a new ranger in Yosemite National Park, Doctor L. H. Bunnell’s book, “Discovery of the Yosemite,” a source of information of his adventure with the Mariposa Battalion, stirred my interest. Now in the course of half a century I feel it worth my efforts to compile and add my experiences of the past fifty years. I would like to contribute to the historic facts of the early trail building and to tell about the men that had much to do in the expansion of Yosemite National Park. Men, such as Gabriel Sovulewski, Stephen T. Mather, Horace M. Albright, W. B. Lewis, Major Harry C. Benson, and many others played a leading role in this important work and have left their imprints on the pages of history. They have been guiding influences on my life’s work in the Yosemite Ranger Service, 1921 – 1956 and have left memories that will never die. Even as the days and years grow shorter, there comes to me a very rewarding satisfaction that I was privileged to share a small part in this most interesting life with Men and Nature.

“To him who in the love of nature holds communion with her visible forms, she speaks a various language.”

CONTENTS

Chapter

Page

I

— PIONEER TRAILS OF THE WEST

1

II

— TRADERS, TRAIL BREAKERS, MOUNTAIN MEN, & PATHMARKERS OF THE WEST

3

III

— FIRST EXPLORER OF YOSEMITE VALLEY, JAMES D. SAVAGE

11

IV

— FIRST TOURIST PARTY IN YOSEMITE

16

V

— YOSEMITE TRAILS

18

VI

— EXCERPTS FROM REPORTS OF ARMY OFFICERS & ACTING SUPERINTENDENTS

33

VII

— HARRY COUPLAND BENSON

39

VIII

— GABRIEL SOVULEWSKI, DEAN OF TRAIL BUILDERS

42

IX

— CRISES IN TRAIL MAINTENANCE

46

X

— MY LAST PATROL

50

CHAPTER I
PIONEER TRAILS OF THE WEST

From the beginning of the 16th century people of all nations wanted to reach California. The Spanish approached it from the south, the Russians from the north, the French via the Mississippi River and the St. Lawrance River, the English from Canada, and the Dutch around the Horn. The Americans approached in an ever advancing wedge.

Pioneers approaching from the east encountered several barriers, the Rocky Mountains, the deserts, and the Sierras. Those from the northeast crossed the Rockies, and those approaching from the middle crossed the Utah desert to the Sierras. The Yosemite region was the last portion of the Sierra to be crossed.

Trails were opened at both ends of the Sierra long before this region was known. The opening of trails to this region was not done by the 49’ers. The Spanish opened trails across the mountains at various passes from Panama to Tehachapi. In 1774, Anza explored a route across the Colorado Desert to the Sierras, thence to San Jacinto Valley and Mission San Gabriel. In 1775-76, Father Garcias, a friend of Anza, ascended the Colorado River to Mojave Desert, following thence along the line of the Cajon Pass, and south to San Bernardino and San Gabriel. He crossed Tejon Pass to Tulare County and then made his way across Arizona to its northeast corner, visiting the Hopi Indians.

Tehachapi Pass was the most northerly pass opened by the Spanish. The Spaniards’ northern trails were cut off in the beginning of the 18th century. The Yumas rebelled in 1781, cutting off the Anza Trail. The hostility of the Hopi and Navajo prevented the development of the Mojave trail which Anza had explored. By 1812, the northern passes had been discovered by British and American fur traders. Alexander Mackenzie crossed the continent in the far north. There was a race between the “Northwesters” and the Hudson Bay men, the former generally in advance. The Americans came just behind them.

Lewis and Clark on their expedition to the Pacific Coast had explored as far south as the Snake River in southern Washington, leaving an unknown gap almost the full length of the Sierras. As time went on the Spanish found no new passes but explored and named Mariposa and Merced.

Gabriel Moraga, who came to California when very young with Anza, and who succeeded his father in the command of the Presidio of San Francisco, explored the interior valleys of California between 1800 and 1820, Visalia was a favorite spot and was destined to be the site of the capital of the new territory, but, no doubt, the discovery of gold in 1848 changed all this. Sacramento grew rapidly and became the State Capital.

Moraga made more than forty expeditions to the interior. In 1806 he discovered the Merced River. On this expedition he started from San Juan Bautista, making his way eastward via Pacheco Pass, striking the San Joaquin Valley near the Mariposa and Merced Rivers.

The name “La Mariposas” comes from the Butterflies which Moraga’s party found in abundance. One of Moraga’s corporals of the expedition had one in his ear and mentioned the fact that the butterflies followed them.

This party divided into three groups, one of which discovered and named the Merced River. Here they found many Indians.

There was a fairly large American population in California before the 49’ers came. The explorers were fur traders, but they were later followed by homeseekers.

CHAPTER II
TRADERS — TRAIL BREAKERS — MOUNTAIN MEN PATHMARKERS

Jedediah Strong Smith

The story of the exploits and adventures of Jedediah Smith and his comrades, the Ashley-Henry men, discoverers and explorers of the great Central route from the Missouri River to the Pacific Ocean, 1822-1831, is an interesting one.

One of the most striking facts in this man’s short and wonderful career was his ceaseless activity. His entry into the fur trade may be likened to a plunge into an irresistible current that should bear him swiftly and far, and from which the release could be through death alone. Such facts in human lives are not to be regarded as matters of chance, but rather as manifestations of temperament, curious, capable, fearless, and self-contained. Smith was never the man to wait for events. He went forth eagerly to meet them. Such are the splendid wayfarers of this world.

His had been the first overland party of Americans to reach California; he had been the first white man to travel the central route from Salt Lake to the Pacific, and the first to traverse the full length of California and Oregon by land. On his first Overland trip to California in November 26, 1826, his party encamped at a point about eighteen miles east of San Gabriel Arcangel Mission, where they were fed by the Spanish.

His route over the Sierra Nevada was not definitely known; it probably ran twenty five or thirty miles north of Yosemite. He mentions snow was so deep that he could not get his horses across and five of them starved to death. After returning to the Sacramento Valley he left his party and started on May 20th with two men, seven horses, and two mules and provisions for themselves, and succeeded in crossing the mountains in eight days with the loss of only two horses and one mule. Snow was 4 to 8 feet deep but frozen; so they were able to travel on top.

After traveling twenty days from the east side of Mount Joseph, he struck the southwest corner of Great Salt Lake, country completely barren and destitute of game. He frequently traveled without water, sometimes for two days, through sandy deserts. They arrived at the Salt Lake, with but one horse and one mule, which were so feeble and poor that they could scarcely carry a little camp equipment. They had no food so ate their horses as they gave out. A most terrible experience.

With two companions Smith had at last penetrated the great triangular white space of his dream. He had found no pleasant valleys rich in beaver, but he had been the first to travel the central route between the Great Salt Lake and the Pacific Ocean. The road from the Missouri River to San Francisco Bay was now open, awaiting the wagons of the settlers and the explorers.

On another expedition, May 27, 1831, he was killed by Indians near the region of the Cimarron River. Here he and his men suffered, they were confused by mirages and the tortures of thirst. His famished animals began to die and Comanche Indians lay in wait at a water hole. Here Smith was killed when he was only 33 years old.

Joseph Reddeford Walker and his party of Mountain Men

Walker was a fur trader who crossed the continent with Bonneville in 1831 - 1833. He branched southwest from the Great Basin and with 50 men made his way up the west branch of the Walker River to the Mono region. George Nidever and Zenas Leonard, who were with him, kept diaries. Leonard’s story of his trip down the ridge between the Merced and Tuolumne Rivers has been published; Nidever’s manuscript is in the Bancroft Library at the University of California.

From Leonard’s diary we learn that the party spent almost a month in crossing over the mountain, as they called the Sierra Nevada Range. Their route has always been a mystery except that they used the “Mono Trail” north of Yosemite which forks into many branches. It was October, and where they at first thought they had reached the summit they found old snow left from the winter before, topped by about eight inches of fresh snowfall. They could find no trail, no feed for their horses, and no game for themselves. The rebellious men wished to turn back although to do so meant probable death. It is doubtful that they had Indian guides.

Zenas Leonard wrote, “We traveled a few miles every day, still on top of the mountain, and our course continually obstructed with snow, hills, and rocks. Here we began to encounter in our path many small streams which would shoot out from under these high snow-banks, and after running a short distance in deep chasms which they have through the ages cut in the rocks, precipitate themselves from one lofty precipice to another, until they are exhausted in rain below. Some of these precipices appeared to us to be more than a mile high. Some of the men thought that if we could succeed in descending one of these precipices to the bottom we might thus work our way into the valley below, but on making several attempts we found it utterly impossible for a man to descend, to say nothing of our horses. We were then obliged to keep along the top of the dividing ridge between two of these chasms which seemed to lead pretty near in the direction we were going—which was West—in passing over the mountain.”

In these diaries mention is made of discovering the Merced or Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees, which are located in Yosemite National Park.

Concerning the Walker expedition historians are at variance. It is not certain that he said Yosemite Valley. Walker’s tombstone, in Martinez, California, bears the inscription, “Camped at Yosemite, November 13, 1833,” Leonard’s description of their route belies the idea of his having camped in Yosemite Valley.

[Editor’s note: today historians generally believe the Walker party looked down The Cascades, which are just west of Yosemite Valley, instead of Yosemite Valley itself.—dea]

Francis Farquhar, in his article, “Walker’s Discovery of Yosemite,” analyzed the problem of Walker’s route through the Yosemite region and showed clearly that the Walker party was not guided by Indians. He concluded quite rightly that Bunnell was not justified in depriving Walker of the distinction of discovering Yosemite Valley. In any case we have in the 1839 account by Leonard the first authentic printed reference to the Yosemite region. Another passage from this narrative must be quoted here:

“In the last two days travelling we have found some trees of the Redwood species, incredibly large—some of which would measure from 16 to 18 fathom round the trunk at the height of a man’s head from the ground.”

This is the first published mention of the Big Trees of the Sierra. If they had followed the old Mono Trail of the Indians, no doubt Walker’s men were the first to discover both the Yosemite Valley, at least to look down from the top, and to see the Big Tree Grove of Sequoias.

The effective discovery of Yosemite is an incident of the gold days. The Gold Rush occurred in Califonia in 1848 and early 1849, and in late 1849 the outsiders from all parts of the nation started pouring in. By 1850, the foothills were settled and abounded in mines and trading posts.
John Charles Fremont — Pathmarker of the West

American explorer, soldier and political leader, was born in Savannah, Georgia, January 31, 1813. His father, a native of France, died when the boy was in his sixth year, and his mother, a member of an aristocratic Virginia family removed to Charleston, South Carolina where Fremont’s youth was spent. He attended a preparatory school in Charleston College; in this school he studied Latin, Greek, and mathematics, and excelled in all.

In 1833, he was a teacher of mathematics on board the sloop-of-war “Natchez” and Fremont sailed with that vessel on a cruise along the South American coast which lasted two and a half years.

After he served as assistant engineer of a survey undertaken to find the best pass for a proposed railway from Charleston to Cincinnatti, following this he was appointed second lieutenant of topographical engineers in the U.S. Army, and for the next three years he was an assistant to the French explorer Jean Nicholas Nicollet, employed by the war department to survey and map a large part of the country lying between the upper waters of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers. In 1841 Fremont alone headed an expedition to survey the Des Moines river to complete Nicollet’s map

Upon his return he married Jessie Benton, daughter of Senator Thomas Hart Benton of Missouri. “Fremont and Jessie Benton, first met at a school concert in Georgetown. The result was love at first sight. Jessie was not quite sixteen. “There came a glow into my heart” he wrote decades later, “which changed the current and color of daily life, and gave beauty to common things.” He married Jessie Benton, October, 1841. Three sons, and two daughters came to this union; a son and daughter died in infancy.” [1]

When emigration over the Oregon trail to Oregon country began to be important in 1842 Fremont was sent at the head of a party to explore the route beyond the Mississippi as far as South Pass in Wyoming. He surveyed the trail thoroughly and his excellent description greatly aided the emigrants of following years. The year following he was sent to complete the survey of the trail to the mouth of the Columbia. His guide on this as well as on the previous expeditions was the famed and picturesque Kit Carson. The Oregon settlements were quickly reached, and then Fremont turned south and east via the Klamath Lakes to northwestern Nevada, continuing to the Truckee and Carson rivers. Fremont then accomplished with his entire expedition an extremely difficult and rash crossing of the Sierra Nevada mountains in midwinter, an exploit which added greatly to his fame, and spent the winter near Sutter’s Fort on the Sacramento river in California. His return was around the southern end of the Sierra Nevada range and across to Salt Lake mainly via the old Spanish trail from Santa Fe to California.

In the spring of 1845 Fremont was again dispatched on a third expedition of exploring the Great Basin and Pacific Coast, but with secret instructions for action in case of a war with Mexico. He and his party of 62, after traveling the Great Basin by a new route directly west from Great Salt Lake and down the valley of the Humboldt, reached California in January 1846, after a second winter crossing of the Sierras.

When news of the declaration of war with Mexico did reach California all the northern region was already in American hands. Fremont was appointed by Commodore Stockton major of a battalion made up of American volunteers, and by January 1847 he and Stockton had completed the conquest of the future State. After some conflict in orders between Commodore Stockton and General Stephen W. Kearny, Fremont disregarded Kearny’s orders and was arrested by the latter, and was tried by court martial in Washington. He was found guilty of mutiny, disobedience and conduct prejudicial to military discipline, and sentenced to be dismissed. Fremont, in a bitter mood resigned.

The explorer now intended to establish his home on an estate which he had purchased in California.

“In 1849, Colonel Fremont, a Mexican War Veteran, acquired by virtue of a purchase made in 1847, from J. B. Alvarado, a so called “floating grant” of 44,386 acres of grazing land in the Mariposa hills. After gold was discovered in the Mariposa region in 1848, Fremont “floated” his rancho far from the original claim to cover mineral lands including properties already in the possession of miners. The center of Fremont’s activities was Bear Valley, 13 miles northwest of Mariposa. Lengthy litigations in the face of hostile public sentiment piled up court costs and lawyer fees. However, the U.S. Courts confirmed Fremont’s claims, and other claimants, including the French Company, lost many valuable holdings. Tremendous investments were made in stamp mills, tunnels, shafts, and other appurtenances related to the mining towns as well as to the mines which Fremont attempted to develop. In spite of its phenomenal but spotty productiveness, the Fremont Grant brought bankruptcy to its owner and was finally sold at sheriff sale. The town of Mariposa, which was on Fremont’s Rancho, became the county seat in 1854.

“For fifteen years the Mariposa grant, rich in gold and grazing land, was to dominate his activities, promising him wealth and happiness, but trouble and disappointment was to bring him in the end ill luck and all vanished as suddenly as a rainbow bubble. Needing funds for development and for discharging his debts he resolved to go to Europe, form a company, and sell enough shares for his purposes. Fremont and his lawyer sailed in January, 1861, for Europe. In France he soon found that the threat of civil war made it impossible to raise money for Mariposa on any acceptable terms. He returned at once to accept an appointment as one of the ranking Union generals.” [2]

“In December 1849, he was elected one of the first two senators from California, but drawing the short term he served only from September 1850 to March 1851. He was defeated for re-election by the pro-slavery party.

His opposition to slavery, however, together with the popularity his explorations and his part in the conquest of California had won for him, led to his nomination for the presidency in 1856 by the newly formed Republican Party. In the ensuing election he was defeated by James Buchanan by 174 to 114 votes. He retired from public life and devoted himself to building a railroad by the southern route to the Pacific. The finances of the enterprise were unsound and in the collapse in 1870 Fremont lost the fortune he had made in California . . . In his embarrassment he welcomed the relief and change of occupation that came with an appointment as governor of Arizona territory in 1878, an office which he occupied until 1881.

“His one great definite and tangible contribution to American life was his geographical work, and as long as the early history of the Great West lives, his name will live with it. But perhaps he made an indefinite and intangible contribution that is equally memorable. Where else can we find a career so packed with adventure and the romance of contrast; where else one which calls up so many images of a more spacious and brightly colored era? His name evokes a vision of the wild trans-Missouri wilderness in the days of Indians and buffalo, of Kit Carson and Johann Sutter; a vision of the clash of American troops and Mexican levies in California and in the southwest; a vision of that furnace heat of sectional passion in which the Republican party was melded; a vision of civil war, and of armies grappling in Missouri and along the Shenandoah Valley; a vision of desperate political intrigue in Washington; a vision of financial speculation both west and east in the gilded age after the war, of dizzy profits and still dizzier losses. His name evokes, too, the lingering fragrance of one of the truest love stories in all American history.

“His colorful career came to a sudden crisis in late 1887, when he was seized with a severe attack of bronchitis. His doctor said he must go to a warm climate; so with the financial help of his good friend Collis P. Huntington he and his wife returned to Los Angeles California, and settled in the Oak Street cottage where his health improved. He had hoped that Congress would make a proper payment on the Black Point property which they had purchased at an early date. It was through his good wife Jessie, and public sentiment supported the measure, in April, 1890, that Congress in view of the services to his country rendered by John C. Fremont gave him an adequate income annually which took care of his last days.

“In July 1890, he wrote to Mrs. Fremont that he would return to Los Angeles, where they would make their permanent home. But fate interfered once again. On July 13, 1890, in answer to a promise he laid flowers on the grave of a little boy friend in Brooklyn in a cold rain. That night he was seized with a violent chill. Peritonitis had set in, and in a few hours death came to him at the age of 77. Mrs. Fremont who spent her last years living with her daughter in Los Angeles out lived her husband a dozen years. Their estate on the Hudson, which Mrs. Fremont christened with the local Indian name, Pocaho, became the burial ground for both of them.

“It is for the splendid achievement of his early life as an explorer that Fremont will be most gratefully remembered by the American people. It is true that trappers had long before traveled where he followed, but he first surveyed and described the routes. If he was not a “pathfinder” he was a “pathmaker.” “FROM THE ASHES OF HIS CAMPFIRES HAVE SPRUNG CITIES.” [3]

________
1 “Fremont” Pathmarker of the West, by Allan Nevins.

2 “Fremont” Pathmarker of the West, by Allan Nevins.

3 “Fremont,” Pathmarker of the West, by Allan Nevins.

CHAPTER III

James D. Savage, Indian Fighter, and Explorer of Yosemite Valley

“He was born in Cayuga County, New York around 1817. At about 5 years of age he went to Jacksonville, Illinois, and then moved to Princeton, Bureau County, Illinois at the age of 21. He married and settled in Peru, Illinois.

“In 1846, Savage heard the call and caught the fever of restlessness that infected Illinois, and with his wife and child joined an emigrant train that was going across country to California. His wife, Eliza, and their child both died on this harsh journey.

“He reached Sutter’s Fort with the Boggs party on October 28, 1846. He immediately volunteered to serve in the California Battalion under Fremont and remained in service until the disbanding in April of 1847. He was with Sutter in May, 1848, aiding Marshall in the construction of the mill at Coloma where gold was first discovered on January 24, 1848, by James W. Marshall, an employee of John A. Sutter of Sacramento. This gold discovery spread like wildfire and soon swarms of gold seekers in covered wagons, on horseback, and even on foot were headed for this gold country.

“By 1849, the Mariposa hills were occupied by the miners; more than three thousand inhabitants occupied the town of Mariposa. It was near here that James D. Savage started his mining and trading episode. He first located on a tributary of the Tuolumne River where he both mined and acted as a trader between the Indians and miners. He also employed Indians to work “the diggins” for him, paying them for their gold with blankets, knives, and other goods that he had in his store. In this triple capacity, Savage soon acquired wealth, fame, and influence.

“In 1849 as more and more miners came into the area, Indians were unable to maintain their ground against the encroachments of the whites. Savage withdrew from Woods Creek and went about 20 miles further south to the region called Big Oak Flat. His Indians followed him and soon developed their “diggins” for him. Savage paid them in provisions and goods as before and undertook to protect them against the whites. By this time he had learned their language and was an important figure among them.

“During the year 1849 quarrelling began between the Indians and the whites, and the white miners now took up arms. Savage was able to act as intermediary and prevented bloodshed, but he thought it best to retire from the district.

“He then went south, established a store on the Merced River near Horseshoe Bend, and developed his talent for learning the language and gaining the friendship of the Indians. Here he further cemented his alliance with the Indians by taking several of their women as his wives. The number of these wives is legend, but the figures range from two to twenty seven; five, however, is the figure most frequently mentioned.

“In 1849, Savage had set up another store near the bottom of the Merced River Canyon, which is the deep gash in the mountains that seperates the Big Oak Flat region from the Mariposa area. Here, however, Savage was in danger of a tribe of Indians with whom neither he nor any other white man had been able to establish friendly relations, the Yosemite or Grizzly Bear Indians, who inhabited the almost impenetrable valley which they called Ahwahnee, the deep grassy valley. [Editor’s note: For the correct origin of the words Yosemite and Ahwahnee see “Origin of the Word Yosemite.”—DEA]

“One time after a raid on his post, when Savage chased these Indians up the Merced River, he gave up the attempt to overtake them when the canyon wall became so narrow that he feared he would be ambushed. It was probably on this occasion that he passed the entrance of, or possibly went up into Cascade Canyon, whose precipitious walls would be a remarkable sight in themselves were they not completely subdued by the incomparable grandeur of the Yosemite Valley close by.

“After a severe attack by the Indians in the early spring of 1850, Savage abandoned this site and withdrew. He came down the Merced River and went up Bear Creek until he came to the high country above Mariposa. He then set up two trading posts; one where the Agua Fria meets the Mariposa near the site of the old stone fort, and and the other about 20 miles further south on the right bank of the Fresno River about 4 miles from the present town of Coarse Gold. The spot where he located came to be known as the old Fresno Crossing and was a place where the main wagon road between Mariposa and the Coarse Gold “diggins” cross the Fresno River.

“In the fall of 1850 Savage’s Indian friends told him that the Yosemites and some other discontented Indian tribes were about to declare open war on the whites. Savage believed in the possibility of such an attack and took active steps to avert it. With the idea of impressing the Indians with the power and overwhelming number of,. the whites, Savage took with him to San Francisco a chief of the Chowchillas by the name of Jose Juarez; two squaws and several braves also went to San Francisco. They spent money recklessly and made themselves extremely conspicuous. Savage, anticipating war with the Indians, took a lot of his gold with him for safekeeping, barrels full according to legend, but instead of depositing it anywhere, he seems to have squandered most of it in gambling.

“After staying in San Francisco long enough to share the excitement of the announcement of the admission of California into the Union, Savage went back to the Indians in his Fresno River store. His attempts to convince them of the power and strength of the whites was futile; he was overruled, and the Indians decided to go on the warpath. At this point Savage withdrew to warn the whites. “Around December 18, or 19, Savage’s Fresno River store was attacked. Greely, the manager, and two clerks were killed while the third escaped through the intervention of an Indian friend and a gentleman named Long Haired Brown, who eluded his pursuers all the way to Mariposa.

“Savage went to Horseshoe Bend to get a group together to go after the Indians. While he was gone, his store at the junction of the Agua Fria and Mariposa was attacked, his assistant killed, his goods stolen, and his squaws carried off.

“On January 13, 1851, Governor MacDougal wrote to Sheriff Burney, the Sheriff of all Mariposa County, authorizing him to muster a force of men for the protection of lives and property in Mariposa County. The command with commission of Major was offered to Savage, and the men formed into three companies. The entire Battalion was composed of about 200 men and thereafter became known as the now famous Mariposa Battalion.

“Savage drilled the Mariposa Battalion at the Lewis Ranch about 15 miles southwest of the Agua Fria on the Mariposa Creek, until on February 16, 1851, when Governor MacDougal ordered all military activity ceased until peaceable means of reconciling the Indians could be tried.

“A Federal Commission then endeavored to persuade the tribes of the Sierra south of the Stanislaus River to come in and talk peace. Only the friendly ones reported. When the warring tribes of the Mariposa region failed to appear at a feast and council scheduled for them at Fremont’s Ranch on the Mariposa River, the Mariposa Battalion was given orders to bring them in by force. They left the Lewis Ranch on their now famous expedition, on March 19, 1851.

“The expedition went up Mariposa Creek, passed Savage’s ruined store at the junction of the Mariposa and the Agua Fria, and turned off toward the Chowchilla Mountains. It followed through the mining camps of Bootjack and Usona to Wawona. From Wawona they went down the south fork of the Merced River to Bishop Creek.

“Savage and the Companies of the Mariposa Battalion completely surprised about 1,000 Nuchu Indians at a place called Bishop’s Camp at the fork of Bishop Creek and the Merced River, who readily agreed to the terms of the Commissioners. Nuchu runners were then sent out to the other tribes, threatening them with severe reprisals if they did not come in and surrender like the Nuchus.

“One of the runners reached the Yosemites with this message and on March 23, 1851, Tenaya, Chief of the Yosemites, the most recalcitrant of all the chieftains, stood at the edge of Savage’s camp in dignified silence until bidden entry. Suspicious at first but finally appearing won over, Tenaya departed to bring in the rest of his people. The next day he returned to say that his tribe was coming in, but that since the trails were full of deep snow, it would take time to bring in the men, women, and children. This seemed reasonable, but by the next day when none had shown themselves, Savage figured that the crafty Tenaya had actually ordered his people to go higher into the mountains.

‘By the strange and humorous means of a foot race, which incidentally included Indians, Savage selected 57 men to follow after Tenaya and the Yosemites. This bizarre foot race served the purpose of warming up the men, providing excitement for the Indians still in the vicinity, and perhaps most importantly, insuring the fleetness of the 57 volunteers.

“The volunteers ascended the divide to the east of Bishop’s Camp, progressing slowly in deep snow. In midafternoon they met 72 Yosemites heading for Savage’s Camp. Tenaya explained this was all that had come and that the rest had fled to the Tuolumne, and to the Monos across the Sierra Nevada. Knowing the Yosemites were a large tribe, Savage sent Tenaya and the 72 Indians to his camp and pressed on, following the Indians trail in the snow.

“After more than an hour’s march, they reached a promontory in the vicinity of Old Inspiration Point, and from this spot across from Majestic El Capitan, late in the afternoon of March 27, 1851, the awestruck Major Savage and his men had revealed to them the full glory of Yosemite Valley.

“They camped that night at the foot of Bridalveil Falls and then discussed a name for the Valley. Unaware of the beautiful Indian name Ahwahnee, meaning “deep grassy valley”, [Editor’s note: For the correct origin of the word Ahwahnee see “Origin of the Word Yosemite.”—dea] the men voted to name it after the tribe and called it Yosemite.

“This concludes our discovery story except to tell that after several days of exploration in the Valley, one aged squaw was discovered, and through the negligence of some of the soldiers, Tenaya and most of the Yosemites were allowed to escape.

“On July 1, 1851, the Mariposa Battalion was mustered out. Major Savage resumed his trading operations in a store on the Fresno River near Coarse Gold. Savage engaged again in trading and in cattle ranching. Bad blood had sprung up between him and some of the settlers along King’s River. He was fearless and felt the security from danger at the hands of those he disliked, which he expressed in seemingly careless but purposeful disdain and contempt. Among those toward whom he thus felt was Major Harvey, then the County Judge of Tulare. He had spoken foully of Harvey, and his language had been reported to that gentleman, August 16, 1852. Savage visited King’s River Reservation, where William Campbell, whom he also disliked, was agent. Judge Marvin of Tuolumne was there present with Major Harvey. The latter asked Savage if the reported language had been uttered by him, and, on Savage responding that it was correctly reported, Harvey demanded its retraction. Savage’s only response was a slap in the face, and at that instant his pistol dropped from his loose shirt bosom. Harvey instantly drew his pistol and fired with fatal effect. Savage fell dead. An examination before a neighboring justice of the peace ended in Major Harvey’s immediate release, as it was held that he had acted in clear self-defense.

“The remains of Major Savage were at the time buried near where he fell. In 1855, they were removed by Dr. Leach, his firm friend and at one time his business partner, and given permanent sepulture at the point on Fresno River known as “Leach’s old store,” which had also been Savage’s trading post. Doctor Leach erected over the spot a granite monument, ten feet high, square and massive and stern, typical of the robust form and the sturdy spirit of the strange and strong man whose memory it commemorates, and upon one of its sides is carved simply his name. He sleeps the everlasting sleep in the enduring, rock-bound bed in the middle of the stream on whose banks he last dwelt, and its gentle murmurings in placid flow, and its wild turbulence when lashed by angry winds, are alike as the calmness and the passionate moments of his lifetime, the lullaby of his peaceful rest, and the wierd threnody of his violent end.” [1]

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1 Quotations are from a letter and speech by Kenneth J. Fryer, at the dedication of a plaque in honor of James D. Savage. This plaque is located at the new Inspiration Point right near the eastern entrance to the Wawona Tunnel.

CHAPTER IV

First Tourist Party in Yosemite

In the summer of 1855, the first tourist party made its way into the Yosemite Valley; it was organized and led by James M. Hutchings, a San Franciscan, the author of Hutchings California Magazine. Having heard tales of the spectacular scenery of the area, he, with three companions, one of whom was the pioneer California landscape artist, Thomas Ayers, proceeded to the foothill town of Mariposa, and from there, picking up two Indian guides, pushed on into the mountains. After an arduous journey the party reached the valley’s floor, where they spent “five glorious days in luxurious scenic banqueting,” before returning to the lowlands. The publication a few weeks later of his description of the grandeur, together with the sketches Ayers had made, helped to set in motion a stream of visitors that has continued in steadily growing volume ever since.

Hutchings’ visit of 1859 apparently convinced him of the desirability of residing in Yosemite Valley. During the next few years he gave to the world information through his California Magazine, of the wonders of Yosemite. In 1864 he became proprietor of the Old Hutchings House, and later a snug cabin on the sunny north side of the valley was their home until his death, October 31, 1902. His daughter, Cosie Hutchings Mills, was the second white child born in the valley, October 5, 1867. Elizabeth H. Godfrey formerly of the Yosemite Museum, obtained written and oral statements from Mrs. Mills regarding the pioneer experiences of the Hutchings family in Yosemite. His life described his early history of Yosemite. See his book, In the Heart of the Sierras.

Here is a quote from his writing, Mountain Travel - “There is nothing more fascinating than going over the top at a pass—the thrill, the excitement, the mystery of what is beyond. You plod up and up, ever watching your step, over rough rocks, rolling and sliding, over loose, steep shale and sand. You are out of breath, you are weary, the blazing sun beats down upon you, you may say, what’s the use? When all at once you reach the top and get that grand expansive view and look over into a promised land, on to weird snow fields, to silvery, flashing streams down into azure lakes, up to ragged peaks, into the purest of pure air and the bluest of blue skies. It is the call of the high country; the call of the main crest; the call toward heaven; it is irresistible.”

The Yosemite Commissioners

The Yosemite Valley or Grant, having been ceded to the State of California, 1864, by Congress and being accepted by this state the following year, has been managed by a state board of Commissioners, eight in number. These were appointed by the governor and held office four years. There was no salary, but their necessary traveling expenses were paid by the state. The annual meeting was held in the office of the guardian on the first Wednesday of June, the governor presiding. And other meetings were held from time to time. The secretary and the guardian were the only two salaried officers of the commission. The first funds for disposal of the board was about $10,000 a year from the state, and about $3,000 from rentals. The Commissioners gave franchises to numerous parties to build roads and trails.

Frederick Law Olmsted was chairman of the first Board of Commissioners to manage Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Big Tree Grove, and, as such, the first administrative officer of this area from September 28, 1864, to May 21, 1886.

Governor F. F. Low, of California, in his proclamation of September 28, 1864, named the eight original commissioners. These men were Frederick Law Olmsted, J. D. Whitney, William Ashburner, I. W. Raymond, E. S. Holden, Alexander Deering, George W. Coulter, and Galen Clark. Galen Clark was appointed Guardian.

Galen Clark

Guardian of the Yosemite Grant, first term, May 22, 1866 to October 1880. Second term, June 5, 1889, to 1896.

Galen Clark was born at Shipton, Canada, on March 28, 1814. Died at Oakland, California March 24, 1910. Buried in the pioneer cemetery in Yosemite Valley.

Galen Clark was intimately associated with Yosemite from the time of his first visit to the area in 1855, until the end of his life in 1910. He himself planted the trees and selected the granite marker upon which he carved his name some twenty years before his death at the age of 96 years. Mount Clark (11,506 feet) in the Clark Range is named for him.

CHAPTER V

Yosemite Trails

It is believed the first white men who used the Indian Trails were Captain Boling and soldiers of the Mariposa Battalion in search of Teneiya’s band of Indians. (See Bun[n]ell’s Discovery of Yosemite, 1851.) He writes, “Going from the head of Indian Canyon we soon stuck an old trail that led east.” This old trail may have been the Indian Mono Trail that was used the same year by Lieut. Moore, while crossing the Sierra via Soda Springs, and Mono Pass in pursuit of Indians. It was also used later by sheepmen.

In June, 1851, Captain Boling, Bunnell, and party with Chief Teneiya, left the valley via an old trail above Mirror Lake and arrived at Tenaya Lake that same night. This appears to be the first recorded trip over what later became the Tenaya Zigzags.

In the “Era of Trails” C. Frank Brockman, describes the improvement of some of the early trails and the construction of new ones. “Milton and Houston Mann, who had been in the Sherlock’s Creek party of 1855, were the first to take positive action along this line. They undertook the construction of a toll trail from Mariposa to Yosemite Valley almost immediately after their initial visit, completing the project in August of the following year (1856). Existing Indian trails were utilized as much as practical particularly as far as the point now known as Wawona on the South Fork of the Merced, which they bridged. The toll route started approximately 12 miles from Mariposa, from a point known as White and Hatch’s. At the Wawona area, however, it departed from the old Indian route climbing steadily to the high-land between this point and Yosemite Valley by following the Alder Creek drainage to its heights. Then it crossed at an elevation of over 7000 feet to the drainage of Bridalveil Creek where it traversed a number of lush meadows, gradually making a second ascent over a series of low ridges, to the highest point on the route, before dropping to the south rim of the Valley at Old Inspiration Point. From here a quick descent to the floor of the Valley near the base of Bridalveil Falls was made. This route is essentially the same as the present combination of the Alder Creek-Pohono Trails.

“Undoubtedly, the presence of the meadows along this route with their abundant stock-feed was the compelling motive for locating the trail in this manner. The old Indian trail which followed a lower elevation through the timber did not offer this advantage. Several years later two sheep camps, known as Westfall’s and Ostrander’s, were set up in the vicinity of these meadows, and the crude shelters which were available served occasionally as a hospice for those who desired a respite from the long ride.

“In 1857, Galen Clark, who was to become a prominent figure in Yosemite history, established himself at the meadow where the trail crossed the South Fork, where Wawona is now located. Here he provided overnight accommodations to the many travelers on their way to Yosemite. Still later Charles Peregoy, for whom Peregoy Meadow is named, established a public house midway along the trail between Clark’s and the Valley. It was operated by Charles Peregoy and his wife until 1875, when the stage road was construc[t]ed between Wawona and the Yosemite Valley, diverting travel from the trail.

“Seven hundred dollars was expended by the Mann brothers in their trail enterprise but, while their efforts were successful in encouraging early travel to this region, their project proved to be somewhat ahead of its time from a practical point of view, and was not an outstanding financial success. Some years after its construction the trail was purchased by Mariposa County for $200, and made available to the public without charge.

Coulterville and Big Oak Flat Trails

“In 1856, L. H. Bunnell joined with George W. Coulter and others of that community in the construction of the ‘Coulterville Free Trail.’ This route did not benefit materially from any previously existing Indian trail, as did the one pioneered by the Mann brothers, for horses had apparently never been taken into the Valley from the north side, and the foot trails that existed were unsuitable to horse travel. It started from Bull Creek, to which a wagon road had already been constructed. The total distance from Coulterville to the Valley was 48 miles, of which 17 miles could be traversed by road. From Bull Creek it passed through meadow areas at Deer Flat, Hazel Green, and Crane Flat, then to Tamarack Flat, finally crossing Cascades Creek to the point now known as Gentry from which the descent along the north rim was made to the Valley floor.

“A third, the Big Oak Flat Trail, had its origin at the town of that name, located six miles north of Coulterville. It followed a route north of the Coulterville Trail through Garrote to Hardin’s Ranch on the South Fork of the Tuolumne River, thence to its junction with Coulterville Trail between Crane Flat and Tamarack Flat. During the early days of trail travel to Yosemite the latter was not as generally used as were the Mariposa or Coulterville trails.

“The Hite’s Cove route, which appears to have been in use in 1872 and 1873, was at least a partial answer for other routes. Hite’s Cove, where was located the rich mine discovered by John Hite in 1861, was on the South Fork of the Merced River some distance above its junction with the main Merced River. By 1874, it was made accessible by wagon road from Mariposa, 18 miles distant. Another route was made available from the north side of the Merced Canyon by 1877. Before this time wagon roads had been completed to the Valley from Coulterville, June, 1874; Big Oak Flat, July; 1874; and Mariposa, July, 1875. Now much of the hardship of a long journey in the saddle was unnecessary.

“The report of the Yosemite Valley Commission for 1880 indicates that before the completion of roads into Yosemite Valley, 12,000 people reached this point via horseback. The first people to penetrate to this area had to pick their way carefully along Indian trails, camping out along the way.” [1]

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1 Quotes from “The Era of Trails,” C. Frank Brockman.

Early Yosemite Trails

The U.S. Geological Survey of California had roughly reconnoitered the Yosemite High Sierra in 1863; they made a more careful investigation of this area in 1866 and 1867. The trail system in existence at that time followed the Coulterville trail from the Valley floor to the north rim where it joined the Mono Indian trail. This route was originally used by the Indians and improved in 1857 by those interested in mining possibilities in the Sierra; it ran east through the heart of what is now Yosemite National Park, closely approximating the present Tioga Road, to Tenaya Lake and Tuolumne Meadows. From this point the return went westward to the original Mariposa-Yosemite Valley Trail constructed by the Mann Brothers in 1856. This was accomplished by means of a branch of the Mono trail, also an original Indian route, which crossed Cathedral Pass and passed through Little Yosemite Valley and Mono Meadows to Ostrander’s in the vicinity of Peregoy Meadows on the present Glacier Point road. An improved trail, which follows the same route and which is famous for its spectacular scenery and sunrises from Cathedral Pass, is in use at the present time. The map includes and also calls attention to the route from Ostrander’s to Sentinel Dome, which was blazed by the State Survey party in 1864.

It also indicates that the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees was accessible by a trail from Clark’s (Wawona) which follows a route that is approximately the same as that utilized at the present time. On the north side, Hetch Hetchy Valley was accessible by train from a point on the Big Oak Flat route between Sprague’s and Hardin’s ranches, which were located west of the present Big Oak Flat entrance to the park.

When the Yosemite Valley Commissioners took over the Yosemite Valley and Big Trees in 1864, there were two improved trails in the Valley; the Vernal Falls Trail and the Mirror Lake Trail, both of which have unknown builders and construction dates.

We find that the foundation of the major part of our present system was laid in the 1870’s, largely through the policy of the Commissioners in granting toll privileges for trail construction. The Commissioners desired the development of the Valley but had little money; so they gave charters for the construction of toll trails, under which the Four Mile Glacier Trail, the Snow Trail, and the Eagle Peak Trail were built. In 1882 the Commission purchased the Mist and Glacier trails and soon after bought the rest. They did little trail building themselves before the Army took over in 1891.

In 1870, Albert Snow constructed a horse trail from “Register Rock”, at the start of Mist Trail, over the rugged shoulder on which Clark point is located, to the flat between Vernal and Nevada Falls. Here he constructed a hotel known as “La Casa Nevada”. The following year John Conway built a trail which ascended from the La Casa Nevada to the top of Nevada Falls and Little Yosemite Valley. John Conway contributed further to trail development in the Valley. Under the auspices of James McCauley, who later (1878) built and operated the Mountain House at Glacier Point, he began construction of the Four Mile Trail from the base of Sentinel Rock to Glacier Point in 1871, and completed this project in 1872. James McCauley entered into a contract agreement with the Yosemite Valley Commissioners to build a toll trail up to Glacier Point. McCauley selected the master trail builder, John Conway, to survey the route and build the trail up the 3200 feet to Glacier Point. During the years the trail was slightly rerouted and the grades changed until it is now nearer five miles long than four, but it still retains the historic name “Four Mile Trail.”

The route of the trail passes by a prominent vantage point 2,335 feet above the valley floor, Union Point. No reference could be found regarding the origin of this name, but certainly one can assume that this was a very popular name.

Since the trail was a business venture, it is not surprising to find the owners conducting an advertising campaign describing the quality of the trail. One Gilbert Munger and others testified in one such pamphlet that the benefits of the trail are stupendous, that it has a wide, smooth, easy grade, skillfully executed, and further that General Grant, in 1879, praised it as the best mountain trail he had ever traveled over. Others testified that its grade averages only 20 percent and not over 35 percent. McCauley recognized that visitor’s facilities would be needed at Glacier Point, and in 1878 built and operated “The Mountain House.” This building is still seen today in use as a cafeteria.

The Yosemite Valley Commission, according to its policy of eliminating all private holdings as rapidly as funds became available, requested from the California State Legislature in 1877 the sum of $7,500 for the purpose of purchasing trails from private owners. However, it was not unti[l] 1882 that the Four Mile Trail was purchased from McCauley for $2,500 and became public property and free of toll. Incidentally, by the year 1886, the Commission had succe[e]ded in eliminating all toll on all roads and trails in Yosemite Valley.

The successful completion of the road to Glacier Point in 1882, of course greatly increased the number of visitors to this fabled point of rock. At this time there was some agitation for improving the accessibility of Glacier Point; the only two quick routes to the top were the Four Mile Trail by foot or horseback, and the long Glacier Point road. As early as 1887, there was agitation for a tramway. The State of California seriously considered this and surveyed a route. However, this plan never bore fruit. The idea has been brought up at intervals. The last plea is related in the Congressional Record of December 12, 1930, in which a Mr. Crampton argued for a cableway up to Glacier Point, pointing out that the scenic features should be made available to all, the sick and weak, as well as the young and strong, and that a cableway is no disfigurement of the landscape anymore than a trail is, and that further, such methods are frequently employed in the Swiss Alps. Mr. Crampton’s proposal was defeated. It is the policy of the National Park Service, charged as it is with maintaining the natural and scenic beauty of an area, to respond extremely cautiously to each new demand for improvement of facilities.

Today the Four Mile Trail stands as a tribute to the hardy men who mapped and hewed it out. The fabulous, fantastic view of the “Incomparable Valley,” defying man’s powers of description, always seems just a little more incomparable when you get there by way of the Four Mile Trail.

Yosemite Trails General

The old Indian trails and unimproved sheep herder’s trails were not rocked and rarely blazed, so it was almost impossible to find them. The earliest maps show only the old Mono Indian trail which goes over Tioga Pass, branching somewhere in the Tuolumne area, one branch cutting back of the north wall of Yosemite Valley, and the other going through Clouds Rest, Sunset Creek, across Little Yosemite, up Buena Vista Creek and down to the foothills.

Indian Canyon Trail

This was a toll horse trail to Yosemite Point, constructed in 1873; in 1874, James Hutchins met the cost of a horse trail up Indian Canyon, which by 1877 already had fallen into such disrepair as to make it accessible only to hikers. The disintegration progressed rapidly, and the improved aboriginal route to the north rim found use during a comparativ[e]ly few years of Yosemite tourist travel. In the current master plan of Yosemite National Park it is carried as the trail proposal calculated “to provide the best all year access to the upper country on the north side of the Valley”.

Yosemite Falls and Eagle Peak Trail

The Yosemite Falls Trail, started by John Conway in 1873 and completed to the north rim in 1877, was carried by its builder and owner still higher to the summit of Eagle Peak, highest of the Three Brothers. He started his toll horse trail to Eagle Peak in 1873 and completed it as far as the foot of the Upper falls. In 1877, he finished the trail to the top of the falls, and in 1888 to Eagle Peak. The State wanted to purchase the trail from him in 1882, but he refused to sell. He fought the State in and out of court but finally sold in 1885 for $1,500.

Except for minor changes, the present trail follows Conway’s trail. From the top of the falls you can follow what are probably Conway’s original blazes to Eagle Peak, except for a section through the meadow. The Park Service has reblazed much of the trail, but the diamond shaped blazes made by the Army are easy to distinguish from the others.

The Pohono Trail

I can find no information on its builder or date. It is not shown on McClure’s 1896 map but does appear on the 1905 map.

About 1906 this trail was changed from Dewey Trail to Pohono Trail. It follows the south rim of the Valley from near Sentinel Dome via the Fissures, then across Bridalveil Creek some distance back of the Bridalveil Falls, then on to Dewey and Stanford Points and the old stage road at Fort Monroe, the first stage station just beyond Inspiration Point. It gives new points of view of wonders of the lower part of Yosemite.

Clouds Rest and Half Dome Trails

The original trail to Clouds Rest was a segment of the Old Mono Indian Trail starting in Little Yosemite. The trail is shown in Wheeler’s Survey Map of 1878 and mentioned in the 1884 Commissioners reports. In 1882, the Commission recommended that the trail be shortened. In 1890, the Commission shortened and improved the trail. Again in 1912, the trail was further shortened and improved by the Department of the Interior.

Wheeler’s map shows a spur trail to the base of Half Dome but gives no information as to its construction. Half Dome was first climbed by George Anderson in 1875. His ropes and pegs were used for a few years by several people to climb to the top. In 1908, two young engineers strung the cable furnished by the Sierra Club. The present cable was first put up by Lawrence Sovulewski and Milton Frankie, two civil engineers. The cable was packed to the dome in full length on several mules by a packer named Lack, who was working for the Park Service. Most of the necessary material was carried to the top of the dome by those two young engineers, which was a feat in itself.

There are no signs of the old Indian trail or the Commissioner’s trail, but the Army trail with its “T” blazes is in quite good condition. It can be picked up when one enters Little Yosemite Valley by taking the path to the left across the meadow; a short distance from this path a faint trail cuts back in the general direction of Yosemite Valley. In a few hundred yards there was an old corral at the base of a small round hill; the Army trail began at the base of this hill going around to the left.

Mist Trail

In 1864, when the State took over Yosemite, the trail to the top of Vernal Falls was in existence, and no one seems to know its origin. It was started at Happy Isles and went up the south side of the river to the top of the falls. It can be picked up now at the end of the Illilouette Creek delta and followed quite easily to Register Rock. This is probably the old trail rebuilt for horses by Snow, (1869-1870)

The Mist Trail is essentially as it was except that rock stairs were put in later, and the trail ended at Fern Grotto where there was a platform and ladder leading up over the lip. (This may have been built by Cunningham.) Later, after one man fell off and was killed, wooden steps replaced ladders, and railings were put up. In 1897, the wooden steps were replaced by stone. The State purchased the Mist Trail in 1882 for $300.

Panorama Trail

The original trail prom Glacier Point to Nevada Falls was one built by Washburn and McCready in 1872, going along the Illilouette Ridge, and then dropping down to join the old Mono Indian Trail at the bridge in Little Yosemite Valley.

In 1885, the present Echo Wall Trail of Panorama Trail climbed up from Nevada Falls. In 1893, the Commissioners reports state that the Panorama Trail was rebuilt after long disuse, and the bridge was rebuilt over Illilouette Creek.

As I searched the Little Yosemite Valley area, the Illilouette Creek area, and the Buena Vista area looking for signs of the Old Mono Trail, which according to the maps does not follow the present trails, I found no sign other than a few old blazes at a ford that led nowhere.

Snow Trail

The first known trail builder in the Yosemite Valley was Albert Snow, who built the horse trail zigzags up to Clark Point and thence down to the Silver Apron in 1870. This trail can be picked up at Register Rock and generally follows the new trail but is much steeper. Just after you cross the bridge near Silver Apron, if you turn right you can find a section of this trail that leads directly to the site of the Casa Nevada. Snow probably built the wagon road which went from the Casa Nevada along the north side of the river to the edge of the cliff at the top of Vernal Falls. Sections of the road are in surprisingly good condition. There were the remains of an old shack where it terminated.

Casa Nevada — and Nevada Falls Trail

In 1871, John Conway built the horse trail from Casa Nevada (an early pioneer hotel) to Nevada Falls along the north side of the Merced River, but when he built the original cut backs they were much longer stretching from wall to wall of the canyon, and were built up in places fifteen feet high.

Anderson Trail

In 1882, George Anderson built the trail up the north bank of the Merced River from the Happy Isles Bridge. The original plan was to build the trail all the way up the north side to the top of the falls. He built the widest, best trail yet built, but costs ran way over estimates and he was stopped by the cliffs. In 1885, the Commission had a connecting trail built from the point where Anderson’s trail started uphill to Register Rock bridge, where it joins the Snow and Mist Trails. The south trail then fell into disuse. Anderson built a blacksmith shop ‘along the trail that is mentioned in some of the old commissioner rsquo;s reports. Remains of the shop were picked up by the Park Service crews in 1957.

Anderson’s abandoned trail leaves the present trail about two blocks before the bridge below Vernal Falls and continues uphill, wide as a toad, till it abruptly stops in a grove of trees.

Merced Lake Trail

Originally to get to Merced Lake one would have to go up the Sunset Creek Trail and cut around north of Bunnell Cascades and down into Merced Lake. In 1911 a trail right along the river to Bunnell point and over the tip to the Lake was built, saving four miles. This trail has since been improved by the Park Service. In 1914, three miles of new trail were constructed from Washburn Lake to Lyell Fork of the Merced River, which opened up beautiful country along the main canyon of the Merced River.

La Casa Nevada

This early pioneer hotel was built and operated by Mr. and Mrs. Albert Snow. It was famous for its excellent meals. It was midway between the top of Vernal and the foot of Nevada Falls. In 1869-1870, Albert Snow built a horse trail from Yosemite Valley to this flat near Vernal Falls. The Snow Hotel opened April 28, 1870. It was destroyed by fire in 1890.

Ledge Trail

In 1871, James M. Hutchings had been guiding parties of hikers to Glacier Point over a most hazardous trail, which he had blazed up the Ledge and through the chimney and which climbed 3,200 feet in approximately one and a half miles to Glacier Point. This was the Ledge Trail.

In 1918, it was repaired by the Park Service. It was a dangerous climb because it was partly built of solid rock, and extremely steep, much like a staircase. Rock slides occur[r]ed frequently causing accidents to climbers. Only up-travel was permitted by the park regulations in later years. After several major floods, rock slides, injuries, and deaths to climbers the park authorities deemed it necessary to close this trail to all hikers. The Author assisted in rescue parties several times on this trail.

It was April 9, 1928, when the Author rescued Miss Edna May Wilbur, daughter of Curtis D. Wilbur, Secretary of the Navy, and Miss Ona E. Ring, of Lindsay, California. The girls without a guide became lost at night while trying to descend the steep Glacier Point Ledge Trail. In responding to the girls cries for help, and with the aid of ropes I was able to haul them back more than 100 feet to safety from a narrow ledge 2,000 feet above the floor of the Yosemite Valley.

Archie Leonard Trail 1914

This trail extends from the Wawona Ranger Station paralleling the South Fork of the Merced River for several miles, then bears to the left to the main Buck Camp trail at the Buck Camp Ranger Station. This trail is named in honor of Ranger Archie Leonard, as a slight recognition of his many years of faithful service in Yosemite National Park. He was a guide for the U. S. Troops and later ranger with the National Park Service. When the Troops came to take over the protection of the Yosemite National Park, he was assigned as scout and guide for the Troops. During the winter months when the troops were out of the park, Archie and Charles Leibig took over the responsibilities of patrolling and keeping law and order. It is thought Leonard first blazed this trail in the early 1900’s. He was one of the “First Rangers” in Yosemite.

John Muir Trail

The plan for a John Muir Trail apparently originated with Theodore Solomon, member of the Sierra Club, and an enthusiastic mountaineer. Much of the preliminary mapping of the route was done by Joseph N. Le Conte, son of the famous geology professor of the University of California. The trail itself was established in 1915, when a grant of $10,000 was made by the California State Legislature upon the request of the Sierra Club. Work started in August, 1915, on portions of the trail which were already in existence and needed only to be connected. The work between the two National Parks, Yosemite and Sequoia, was done under the supervision of the United States Forest Service.

In 1917, another grant of $10,000 was made by the State Legislature, and the route finally worked out by Wilbur F. McClure, State Engineer. In 1919, and 1921, the State Legislature appropriated additional grants, but Governor Stephens vetoed the measure. In 1925, Governor Richardson approved another $10,000, and improvement and maintenance were carried on largely by the Forest Service with donated funds. Other appropriations of $10,000 were made each year in 1927, 1929, and 1931; these were expended under joint direction of the State Legislature and the Forest Service.

We are unable to locate any information on later expenditures on the John Muir Trail, but a statement made about 1932 by Walter Huber, prominent Engineer and member of the Sierra Club, was to the effect that he hoped more and larger appropriations would be forthcoming.

A portion of the John Muir Trail within Yosemite National Park is maintained by the National Park Service as a regular part of its trail and maintenance program. It was fitting that the trail was named after John Muir, who was President of the Sierra Club for 22 years.

A fitting climax to the High Sierra Trails in Yosemite National Park is found in that portion of the trail system which has been designated by John Muir Trail. Beginning at the Le Conte Lodge in Yosemite Valley, this route follows the Merced River Trail to Little Yosemite, thence along the ancient Indian route over Cathedral Pass to Tuolumne Meadows, up the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne to Donohue Pass where the trail leaves the national park, along the east slope to Island Pass, then back to the headwaters of westward-flowing streams to Devils Postpile and Reds Meadow on the San Joaquin, south to Mono Creek and other tributaries of the South Fork of the San Joaquin, into Kings Canyon National Park at Evolution Valley, over Muir Pass to the headwaters of the Middle Fork of the Kings, over Mather Pass in the South Fork of the Kings, over Pinchot Pass, Glen Pass, and into Sequoia National Park at Foresters Pass, thence south to Mount Whitney. At Whitney Pass the route descends the east slope until it connects with a spur of the El Camino Sierra at Whitney Portal above the town of Lone Pine. Along the route are 148 peaks more than 13,000 feet in height. The Sierra crest, itself, is more than 13,000 feet above the sea for eight and one-half miles adjacent to Mount Whitney. The trail traverses one of the most extensive areas yet remaining practically free from roads.

Trail Hub at Tuolumne Meadows

A short distance from Tioga Pass on the Tioga Road is the headquarters for the Tuolumne Meadows Ranger District. The Author was in charge of this vast mountain wilderness for ten summers and became acquainted with protection and maintenance, with eight to twelve seasonal rangers to assist in the duties. Here Tuolumne Meadows Lodge, store and gas station are maintained by the Yosemite Park and Curry Company every summer. The National Park Rangers maintain an improved camp ground under the ranger’s supervision.

The “Meadows”, as they are called, afford visitors a chance to gaze in wonderment at the higher mountains of the Sierras, or, if they feel so inclined, to climb and explore the 10,000 foot masses of glacier covered rock. The meadows are ideal for camping. Each summer many people remain in this happy vacation land for weeks at a time. The Tuolumne River is a good fishing stream, flows through this area, and lends a peculiar charm to the scene.

Here an excellent trail from Tuolumne Meadows leads to the renowned Waterwheel Falls, where the glacial born Tuolumne River strikes a spoon shaped rock causing the pure mountain water to rise twenty feet and spin fifty feet in the air. The spectacle is a most extraordinary sight and is said by travelers to be one of unequaled beauty.

Below the Waterwheels the Tuolumne River plunges madly through the mile deep canyon known as the Muir Gorge, a part of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, and one of the world’s most beautiful gorges. This was inaccessible except to hardy and enthusiastic knapsackers. A trail has been built and is now maintained by the National Park Service, which enables hikers of all ages to traverse this part of the Yosemite National Park.

A few miles further westward the granite cliffs slope back more moderately, and the river instead of rushing madly along its course flows in a quiet, serene fashion through Pate Valley. Here the blackened rocks have various unreadable and mysterious Indian pictographs outlined in deep stain which are mute reminders of the red men who once inhabited this section of the country. Numerous bowl shaped holes hollowed in the gray granite represent primitive grist mills where Indians, less than a century ago, ground acorns into meal for bread.

Seven miles below Pate Valley the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River enters Hetch Hetchy Valley, now the reservoir and water storage for the city of San Francisco. A huge dam has been constructed across the lower end of Hetch Hetchy for water and power. This was erected by the Raker Act, which was passed in the early 1900’s.

The Tioga Road, considered the most beautiful mountain automobile route to be found anywhere in the country, winds from east to west across the crest of the Sierra Nevadas and reaches an altitude at the summit, Tioga Pass, of 9,941 feet. This road was originally built by Chinese labor in 1881, to transport silver from a mine east of the park. As the mining venture failed the road was abandoned and became impassable. In 1915, a group of public spirited citizens purchased the nearly forgotten road from the mining property owners and presented this route to the government. Stephen Tyng Mather, the first Director of National Parks was one of these benefactors.

It is now an excellent highway, with beautiful vista points and parking areas where one stops and views the distant peaks. It makes accessible country whose scenic attractions are unsurpassed in America. This was completed in 1962.

Tuolumne Meadows itself is the hub from which radiate a dozen or more trails, each leading to some mountain lake, to waterfalls, to two mile high passes, to trout streams, living glaciers and glacially carved cliffs and domes.

Isberg Pass and Red Peak Pass Trails

In 1930, trail construction was brought up to a higher standard with the construction of the Isberg Pass and Red Peak Pass Trails. this provided an easy route through a country noted for its scenery, fishing, and excellent camping areas. The new trail with an estimated length of 15.6 miles shortened the distance to Isberg Pass by six miles. It avoids the old fatiguing high route. It provides an excellent scenic loop from Yosemite to Merced Lake, Washburn Lake, and Triple Peak Fork, by many small lakes in the vicinity of Ottoway Creek, and down the I’llilouette basin to Glacier Point.

On viewing the slope and character of the mountain between Merced Peak Fork and Triple Peak Fork we regarded a trail location as impossible, but Mr. Sovulewski skillfully chose routes along benches and through narrow passes for an economical climb.

Season of work extended from the middle of July until middle of October, when cold weather affected the crews’ moral. Nine to twelve men constituted a crew. Camp sites at upper end of Washburn Lake and junction of Merced River with Lyell Fork were occupied at progress stages. Provisions were brought in over 17.8 miles of trail from Yosemite Valley. Equipment was portable air compressor, air hammers, drill steel, horse and stoneboat, hose and small tools.

Considerable ingenuity was needed in securing and placing logs for the Merced River Bridge about 70 feet below Lyell Fork junction. Peeled lodgepole pine was used throughout. Decking consisted of logs hewn to rough 4 by 8 inch dimension 7 feet long allowing a 5 foot clear bridge width. Five logs of the floor were extended out on each side to form rests for diagonal rail bracing. The lower log rails were wired through to stringers directly beneath. 83.6 cu. yds. of dry rubble wall formed the abutments, central pier, and approaches.

In 1931, Park Supervisor Sovulewski and Colonel Thomson, former superintendent in Yosemite National Park, saw the advisability of this trail. Their recommendations contemplated not only a connection with the Isberg Pass Trail via a low line route affording a junction near Merced Lake, but included a trail projection over the Clark Range near Red Peak via Ottoway Lake to the Merced Pass Trail. In 1939, Mr. Walter A.. Starr of the Sierra Club advocated this same trail across the Clark Range, pointing out the advantages not only of superlative High Sierra country views that would be obtained, but also its ultimate usefulness in an extension of the High Sierra camp system.

In 1931, under the direction of the park supervisor and the park engineer the first step in the construction of this trail was accomplished; and in 1939, the appropriations permitted a resumption of the work and its junction with the old trail near Isberg Pass, and a continuation of the trail approximately 10 miles from Triple Peak Fork across the Clark Range to join the Merced Pass Trail The work continued throughout the summer season of 1940 and 1941, with final completion on September 17, 1941. The high standard of trail accomplished and its location were attributable to the unstinting efforts and time in the field by Mr. Ewing and Park Engineer Hilton.

Red Peak Pass at an elevation of 11,200 feet gives one of the most unique and beautiful sights in the Park. Ottoway Lake, a few hundred feet below the timber line, offers an extremely attractive and picturesque panorama of the peaks on the Cathedral Range, the peaks on the eastern park boundary, and the crest of the Ritter Range and the Minarets. The Merced Park and Triple Peak country is particularly attractive with numerous meadows, forests and streams.

CHAPTER VI

Excerpts from Annual Reports of the Acting Superintendents, Army Officers Captain H. C. Benson, Captain A. E. Wood, Lt. McClure, and Major William Forsyth

When the U. S. Troops took over the protection of the Yosemite National Park in 1891, there were originally the following named well known trails through the Park:

Starting from Wawona
Report by Captain A. E. Wood, 1891

Yosemite was created a National Park on October 1, 1890. Each year between 1891 and 1913, the War Department sent troops of cavalry into Yosemite National Park on patrol duty.

The Army officer in charge acted as the superintendent of the park. The troops would arrive in May and leave in October, returning to the Presidio of San Francisco. Captain A. E. Wood was in command of the first troops assigned to Yosemite. Captain Wood, in command of two troops of Cavalry, Companies I, and K, arrived in Yosemite May 19, 1891, and set up camp at Wawona.

“Starting from Wawona, there was a main trail leading through Crescent Lake, Johnson Lake, Gravelly Ford, thence by Little Granite Creek, 77 Corral, Devils Post Pile, and so on to the east by Mammoth Pass, thence from Devils Post Pile running north through Agnews Pass via Parker Glacier to Bloody Canyon, thence into Nevada.

“A second trail led north from the east end of Yosemite Valley through Sunrise Meadow and past Cathredral Peaks, and through Tuolumne Meadows, and so on north to Mt. Conness, where the State Observatory was for many years.

“Then a small branch road led from Crockers on the Big Oak Flat road via the Tioga Road at Ackersons Ranch to the Hog Ranch. From the Hog Ranch a well known trail led to the Hetch Hetchy Valley. From Hetch Hetchy a trail led to Lake Eleanor. Also a trail led from the Hog Ranch via Poopenant Valley to Lake Eleanor.

“A main trail also led north from Wawona to Glacier Point, crossing the Chinquapin Road at Peregoy’s Meadow, to Glacier Point with a branch leading to the northeast by Mono Meadows and Illilouette Creek to Nevada Falls, connecting with the Sunrise Trail to the Tuloumne River and Mt. Conness.

“Other than these there were no marked or defined trails. Lt. McClure, with Corporal Sadlier in charge, made in June 1895, a trip from Camp A. E. Wood, via Johnson Lake, Jackass Meadow and Granite Creek, and there, getting some sheep herders, had them conduct his detail over a pass named by him, Isberg Pass, to the McClure Fork of the Merced River, thence northeast by Tuolumne Pass, by Rafferty Creek, named by him after Doctor Rafferty, who was the surgeon of the detachment, to the Lyell Fork, thence by trail shown by Dingley Creek, Conness Creek, Alkali Creek, and up Spiller Canyon, across Matterhorn Canyon to Slide Canyon, thence down Slide Canyon to Great Slide up to Rock Island Lake, to Arndt Lake, thence down the Rancheria to Hetch Hetchy Valley, and so back to Camp Wood. He stated, “In the years during his scouting over the mountains, 1895, 6, 7, 9, 1902, 4 and 5, with every detail, that I took out, each member of the detail carried a hand hatchet, hung from the saddle by a leather boot, and whenever there were trees, blazing was done, and where there were no trees, the blazing was done by placing rocks along the route, the rocks being close to be able to be seen from one to another.”

During 1905, 6, 7, and 8, Benson had trails constructed around the entire Park by contract. The Interior Department furnished from eight to ten thousand dollars per year for this purpose. At the time of the U.S. Army’s taking charge of Yosemite Park, the entire country north and east of the Yosemite Valley was unknown country, except to sheepherders. The sheepherders had divided the country up among themselves, and certain canyons were known as the ranges belonging to certain men, and they drove out or killed any sheep herders who attempted to trespass in their particular canyon or on their particular mountains.

Outside of the valley, and the valley of the Hetch Hetchy, there was not a fish in any of the waters inside the park except in Lake Eleanor, where Mr. Kibbie a homesteader at Lake Eleanor had brought in some fish and planted them in 1877.

The California Fish Commission built a hatchery at Wawona in 1893 and distributed fish in and about Wawona. The U.S. Fish Commission had sent some fish down to Captain Wood at Camp A. E. Wood in 1891 and 92, and the planting of these fish in small streams in that vicinity furnished the hatchery with eastern brook trout. From time to time Benson netted out young fish and transported them further out into the mountains continuously until 1909. The amount of labor expended by Captain Benson and his details in improving the trails was very great. The successful working out of the trails and the continuation of developing them are due largely to the loyalty and efficiency of the Army officers in the field.

So far as the development of trails and the policing of Yosemite Park by troops were concerned, very little was done during the first two or three years that the park was occupied by the troops, that is, before the arrival of Troop K, 4th Cavalry, under Captain Alexander Rodgers. This is accounted for by the fact that Captain A. E. Wood, who was first in charge of the Park, suffered dreadfully and eventually died from cancer of the tongue. He was desperately ill himself and suffered the tortures of the damned. He kept one of the officers, Lt. Nolan, constantly with him, so there was very little opportunity for any work being done beyond the Tuolumne River. With the arrival however, of Captain Rodgers things took on a different aspect. No sheep herders had been interfered with whatever up to 1895; in fact, the Commanding Officer in 1894 had permitted sheep to range over the immediate territory between Wawona and Yosemite Valley. The result was that no sheepmen had any idea of complying with the regulations which required them to keep outside the limits of the Park.

Captain Wood devoted the main attention of his troops under Lt. Milton F. Davis to keeping cattle, mainly those of the Curtin, and Cattle Company, controlled by J. B. Curtin, from trespassing upon the park. When, however, Captain Rodgers, with Troop I of the 4th Cavalry, took charge of the Park, a new era was instituted. During the next three years he waged incessant war against all trespassers, both cattlemen and sheepmen. Up to this time no trails had been developed, except the main trails which were already in existence, as indicated in a previous note.

Almost all of the trails that were developed within the next three years were developed by Captain Benson. When a detail was out. inspecting the mountains, as soon as the days march was over and evening meal finished, Benson would start out over the country on foot and prospect in the vicinity of the camp for several miles around. In this way he became acquainted with the mountains and streams. He had been trained to track in his Army training. He would find a trail of the sheep herders who were taking supplies out to the herds already in the mountains. Once a month supplies were carried out on mules to the sheep herders who, accompanied by goats and burros, were in the mountains with their herds. The owners packed out once a month, to some point previously agreed upon, the rations which were to last during the next few weeks. By getting on the trail of these big pack animals Benson followed them through the mountains, blazing trees as he went, until he came upon herds of sheep. Immediately on getting to these sheep herders, he had the sheep turned over to a few of the soldiers. Then Benson took all the herders and made them lead him out by another route, which he blazed, so that he was able at once to get through that part of the country without difficulty. Benson was the only officer with the command who did this sort of thing and hence was practically and only man, except Captain Rodgers, who ever caught any herders. In so doing he was able to get into the northern part of the Park, and by prospecting on foot and blazing the w’ay he was able to make trails covering that part of the Park. These trail enagles the other details of troops to follow with safety through that portion of the Park. The old “H’s” on all the trees throughout the park north of the Tuolumne River, were those cut by Benson and his details.

The successful working out of trails and the continuation of developing them were due largely to the loyalty and hard work of Sergeant Gabriel Sovulewski. Too much credit cannot be given to this man for the development of the Yosemite National Park; he was a faithful worker, a man who knew no hours and who never spared himself. He for years faithfully carried out the wishes and ideas of the officers under whose command he was serving and made it possible for the later building of trails when the Government saw fit to appropriate money for that purpose. Just as Sergeant Joseph Fernandez did so much toward assisting in the work of planting fish throughout the Park, so did Mr. Sovulewski in development of the trails, which made the travel over and through the Park possible.

Major Benson gave much credit to one cattleman, Timothy Carlon who lived up to all the rules and regulations of the Interior Department. During all the years that the troops were in charge of the Park, Mr. Carlon never once knowingly violated a single law. He was a man who was ever ready to do what he could to assist the troops in any way possible. In this he differed absolutely from Ex State Senator Curtin, who did everything in his power to violate every rule and regulation of the Interior Department on the ground that these rules were unconstitutional. This eventually led to law suits, in which Benson was personally concerned, but which not only caused him no trouble but lead to his advancement.

Army Trails Built and Improved During the
Administration of the Army 1891 - 1913

Lieutenant N. F. McClure reported the following new routes within the Yosemite National Park, discovered, and traversed by him during the summer of 1895; from Tuolumne Meadows to Lake Eleanor via Stublefield Canyon, and from Tuolumne Meadows to Hetch Hetchy via Slide Canyon and Jack Main Canyon. These routes were much used by the troops in 1895 and were quite well marked all the way with the distinctive government blaze, which is a T.

Reports by E. F. Willcox, Captain 6th Cavalry, 1899

“Numerous repairs were recommended.
Rebuilding bridge over the Tuolumne River in Hetch Hetchy.
Rebuilding bridge over Rancheria Creek in Hetch Hetchy.
Rebuilding bridge over Falls River in Hetch Hetchy.
Repairing trail above bluff, north side of Tuolumne River in Hetch Hetchy.
Building bridge over North Fork San Joaquin River.
Repairing trail up Chilnualna Creek.
Repairing and changing trail into Hetch Hetchy.
Building trail from Granite Creek to Merced Lake Basin.
Repairing trail up Rancheria Mountain.
Building bridge over Slide Creek at Pleasant Valley.
Repairing trail from Pleasant Valley to Rodgers Meadow.
Building bridge over Tuolumne River at Soda Springs.”

In the early 1900’s the Army officers recommended trail construction and maintenance. Only limited amounts were appropriated for this work. Estimated amount needed for the construction and repairs of trails in the park for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1904, was approximately $8,850.00.

Contracts let for building and repairing trails in 1903 progressed satisfactorily, and the soldiers on duty in the park, with ax, hatchet and saw, opened up 60 miles of trails that were well nigh impassable because of fallen trees and the growth of underbrush.

Colonel Joseph Gerrard of the Fourteenth Cavalry gave the matter of trail construction his personal supervision. Most of the trails that had been constructed had very little work done on them. Two or three excellent trails were constructed under Col. Gerrards’ supervision, but it was noted that the trail from Hetch Hetchy over Rancheria Mountain to the “Sink”, thence over Pleasant Valley to Rodgers Lake, was so poorly built that in his report he recommended the immediate repair of this trail. The work was done by Newton J. Phillips and D. A. Lumsdon, at a cost of $1,850.

Estimates for repairs and construction of trails totaled $26,100 in 1907.

Thomas H. Carter of Wawona, in 1906, did contract trail building in the Hetch Hetchy Valley, Rancheria Mt., and thence north to Kerrick Canyon, for as little as $3,500.

It was earnestly recommended that the trail from Hog Ranch to Hetch Hetchy, which was in deplorable condition, be the first to be repaired. It was mentioned again that a wagon road should be constructed into this beautiful valley, the cost not to exceed $10,000 per mile.

Major Win. W. Forsyth, 6th Cavalry, 1911

Reports the new trail from Mirror Lake to Lake Tenaya has been completed at a cost of $6,641.43. The trip from Yosemite Valley to Lake Tenaya over this trail is attractive and the trail was much traveled this season.

The trail from Yosemite Valley to Merced Lake was made about 4 miles shorter. In 1912 a new trail branching off from the Mirror Lake - Tenaya Lake trail at Snow Creek was built to the North Dome, and thence to Yosemite Point. Also a new trail from Tenaya Lake to Clouds Rest, passing between Clouds Rest and Sunrise Mountain.

CHAPTER VII
Harry Coupland Benson

“Colonel Harry C. Benson was born at Gambier, Ohio, December 8, 1857. He was the son of the Reverend Edward C. Benson, Professor of Latin in Kenyon College and graduated from that college in 1877 with the degree of A.B. He was a member of Phi Beta Kappa and of the Psi Upsilon fraternity. In 1887 Kenyon College conferred upon him the degree of M.A.

“He was the husband of Mary Breeze Benson, and the father of First Lieutenant Thomas M. Benson, retired, whose death in 1922 was directly due to illness contracted in the field in France.

“Colonel Harry C. Benson was connected with the military establishment for more than forty six years. He entered the United States Military Academy, July 1, 1878, and was graduated June 13, 1882, standing number 7 in a class of 37 members. He was then appointed a Second Lieutenant in the 1st Regiment of Artillery; was transferred to the 4th Cavalry, January 31, 1884; promoted to the grade of First Lieutenant, March 4, 1888, and to that of Captain, November 21, 1897. During the war with Spain he was made an Inspector General in the volunteer forces with the rank of Major, May 12, 1898, and served in that capacity until May 12, 1899. He reached the grade of Major in the 13th Cavalry of the Regular Army, October 20, 1904; was transferred to the 14th Cavalry, January 12, 1906, and to the 5th Cavalry, October 27, 1908, and was promoted to the grade of Lieutenant Colonel in the latter regiment, August 11, 1911. He was a member of the General Staff Corps from July 31, 1912, to October 14, 1914, and had become a Colonel of Cavalry on September 27, 1914.

“After performing garrison duty in California for a short time 1882 to 1884, he was on frontier duty in the field in New Mexico and Arizona from July, 1884, to June, 1887, and filled that position for the four years ending in August, 1891. Later the appointment of Regimental Quartermaster was tendered to him but he declined it and served at Walla Walla, Washington, at the Sequoia National Park, the Presidio of San Francisco and the Round Valley Indian Agency, up to January, 1893, when he was placed on duty at Chicago, under the Department of State, in connection with the Worlds Fair at that place. Returning to his regiment he saw service at stations in California for nearly five years, ending in June, 1898, when he went to Chickamauga Park, Georgia, where, in the war with Spain, he was Inspector General of the 1st Division, 3rd Corps, from July to October, 1898. He was then Inspector General of the 2nd Division, 4th Corps, at Anniston, Alabama. This position he relinquished in December, 1898, when he became Collector of Customs at Tunas de ZaZa, Cuba, which position he filled until May, 1899. He then was made a member of the commission appointed by Congress to report upon roads and conditions in Yosemite National Park, and served there during four months ending October 31, 1899.

“He than went to the Philippine Islands with the 4th Cavalry and served with it there until August 1901; was then at Jefferson Barracks, Missouri, for three years; at the Presidio of Monterey, California, from October, 1904, to April, 1905 and again at Yosemite National Park from April to December, 1905. He was then at Headquarters Department of California, and at the Presidio of San Francisco for a time, and was Provost Marshal at San Francisco when occupied by troops during the fire there in 1906. Following this he was at the Yosemite National Park and at the Presidio, alternately, the greater portion of 1907 and 1908, but in December of the latter year he became superintendent of Yellowstone National Park and remained there until October, 1910. In that month his duty took him to Hawaii, and he served at Schofild Barracks until August, 1912. From October, 1912, to October 1914, he was Chief of Staff of the Philippine Department. Returning to the United States in broken health, he was under treatment and on sick leave of absence until retiring at his own request, December 8, 1915, after more that 37 years service.

“Colonel Benson was known for his great vitality and physical endurance as well as for his general efficiency and conscientious per-, formance of duty. He was commended in orders, when still a Lieutenant, for bearing uncomplainingly the most incredible fatigues, privations and dangers in operation against hostile Apache Indians in Arizona and Sonora in 1885 and 1886, and his ride of ninety miles in nineteen hours was commented upon in General Field Orders. In 1899, he was highly commended by his commanders for his service as an Inspector General.

“Colonel Benson was an expert marksman and the holder of two medals won in competitions.

“He received high praise from the Acting Secretary of the Interior, and from Inspector of Yosemite Park, for his efficiency in the management of that park, and also from the Inspector of the Yellowstone Park.

“The following is one of the many tributes paid him for his splendid services in connection with our national parks:

“In the early days of the national parks it took more than ordinary energy, enthusiasm and ability to protect them from depredations and misuse. Moreover, it took courage to face the hostility of men, often powerful and influential, whose selfish interests were thwarted by the withdrawal of the park lands from exploitation. If it had not been for the timely protection afforded by the United States Army our legacy would have come to us seriously impaired. Many officers and men contributed to this valuable service, but Colonel Benson stands pre-eminent among them, not alone because of the long period of his activity in the national parks, but because he also brought to his task a prophetic vision. For more than thirty years he maintained his interest in the parks, and in the later days he beheld the realization of many aspirations.”

“In World War I Colonel Benson was recalled from the retired list and served actively as Department Adjutant of the Western Department from August, 1917, to April, 1919.

“The foregoing is a brief outline of a long and valuable military service. Failing health, largely or wholly incident to his service, cut short Harry Benson’s active career before he had attained the rank and rewards due him for his efficiency, character, and record. Of outstanding ability, energy and zeal, he threw himself body and soul into anything he undertook, and it is no surprise to those who knew him well that he should bear uncomplainingly incredible fatigues, privations, and dangers. As he was modest to a fault, the only wonder is that any body should have heard enough about him to make him the subject of ‘a commendatory order. A typical officer of the ‘old’ army, Benson was imbued with its spirit and ideals. High-minded, courageous, honest, intolerant perhaps of what he considered departures from its code, he was frank and outspoken, while trying always to be just and considerate. It was a passion with him to play the game, whether of life, golf, or what not, according to the rules and it must be admitted that he usually knew the rules better than most people. Alert of mind, interested in people and things, and a student of both nature and books, he was an interesting and delightful companion. He was an ornithologist and discovered a species of quail which the Smithsonian Institute named after him - The Benson Quail.

“He died at the Letterman General Hospital, Presidio of San Francisco, California, September 21, 1924.” [1]

________
1 (Note) these excerpts from the Annual Report, United States Military Academy. Class of 1882. Number 2938.

CHAPTER VIII

Gabriel Sovulewski, Dean of Trail Builders

It is only fitting and proper to give Mr. Sovulewski posthumously the praise, honor, and fame due him.

He was born August 12, 1866, in Suwalki, Poland. He enlisted in the U.S. Army November 19, 1888, and advanced to quartermaster sergeant. In 1891-1892 he was placed in charge of the General Grant National Park, which was then under military rule. He was in Yosemite with the U.S. Troops 1895-1896-1897. During the Spanish American War he was in the Philippines, 1899. He returned to Yosemite with the troops as packer and guide.

Sovulewski was supervisor of Yosemite National Park from August 12, 1906, to March 4, 1916, when he became special ranger and acting superintendent. He served as general foreman, administrative, from July 1, 1917 to April 30, 1920 on which date he was appointed park supervisor, the position he held until his retirement, August 31, 1936.

During Mr. Sovulewski’s many years of service in Yosemite National Park, most of the trails were laid out and improved under his direction. Deeply imbued with the spirit of public service, he worked unceasingly to make accessible the marvelous beauties of Yosemite high country. Long hours in the saddle were his to the day of his retirement.

To build and maintain the trail system, the Department of Interior hired 75 to 80 horses and mules per month each season, in addition to the 27 head owned by the department. The cost was $9.50 per month for draft animals, and $7.50 for driving, saddle, and pack animals. Common labor was .50 to .75 cents per hour.

Many trails beyond the rim of Yosemite Valley were nothing more than cattle and sheep trails. In some cases the first trails have been entirely abandoned and rebuilt, and in almost all cases they have been improved, as far as maintainance funds permitted. So in 1914, Mr. Sovulewski continued with construction and maintainance of the existing trails and built new ones as trail money was appropriated by the Interior Department.

When the troops withdrew from the park each fall, Mr. Sovulewski was left in charge. Something of the confidence felt by the Army officers during the periods of his responsibilities may be recognized in the following quotations from a letter addressed to Mrs. Sovulewski, in December 1908, by Major Benson, 5th Cavalry. “I found Yosemite far ahead of any other place in the world. I am more happy, however, to have it left in the care of such capable true men, as Mr. Sovulewski. I have known him for twenty years now, and he has shown himself to be a man of sterling character, of great capabilities, honest, and true in all things.”

In a letter Mr. Sovulewski remarked on trail building, “Trail building is a very important work in the National Parks, when we consider the object for which the parks were created, and on that account any official in charge of a particular park who will delegate trail construction to anyone not in sympathy with this object or who does not fully understand the meaning and intention of park creation, without personal inspection and satisfaction will be liable to make a serious mistake.”

He claimed, “There are six parts to remember in trail construction, It requires strength, determination, a natural instinct for direction, love for the work, love of nature, and an ability to forget everything for the time except the object in view, and to be able to sit in the saddle for 12 or 14 hours, or walk the same number of hours if required in order to find the best possible way.

“The party of workmen varies according to the location and amount of work to be done, and the tools and materials for the different kinds of work. The gang should not, as a rule exceed nine men, including the foreman, packer and cook.

“The foreman should be a practical trail builder, have experience in wood craft, know how to handle tools, and to know and take charge of explosives. He should be able to take full charge in all trail construction.

“In construction of trails under favorable circumstances, ascending long, steep hills, the grades should not be lower than 15 percent, and not exceeding 30 percent. The width of the trail will depend, as stated, on the importance of the trail, averages about 4 feet is sufficient, in passing dangerous points 6 feet is safer. Of course this brings the cost up, and in some cases a two foot trail in some places is safe enough, and comfortable to travel in single file.

“The trail should be well brushed along its course in order that the traveler riding along will not be annoyed with overhanging limbs or undergrowth on the sides.

“The cost of construction is of local consideration, depending on conditions as to layout of ‘trail, cost of labor and materials, distance from supplies, etc. The cost of trail construction in the Yosemite National Park varies from $25.00 to $2,500 per mile, that was in the days of low labor cost, in later d’ay of high costs it could exceed up to $10,000 per mile.”

Much has been said and written about construction of trails, also bridges across creeks. Mr. Sovulewski was most successful in building and maintaining trails and accomplished more than any one man in this work.

Gabriel died November 29, 1938. Both Mr. and Mrs. Sovulewski are buried in the Yosemite Pioneer Cemetery.

Frank B. Ewing, Career Park Service Employee

Frank B. Ewing, born June 8, 1885, at Rattlesnake Bar, El Dorado County, California. He was a graduate of the Sacramento High School, in Sacramento, California.

He was employed by the Wells Fargo Express Company from 1907 to 1913, by the U.S. Geoglogical Survey from 1913 to 1916, and by the National Park Service in Yosemite National Park from 1916 to his retirement July 1, 1950. He married Grace Sovulewski, daughter of Gabriel Sovulewski.

Ewing served first as a ranger and later as assistant supervisor, employment manager, and from 1944 to his retirement as operations manager. He had wide experience in many phases of park administration, from supervision of trail maintenance to direction of fire fighters. For several years Ewing was in charge of all government mess operations in the Yosemite Park. His duties covered trails program, the management of the Yosemite Indian Village, and the coordination of government interests in the Lewis Memorial Hospital in Yosemite Valley. When Mr. Sovulewski retired, Mr. Ewing took over his duties.

During World War II he was a member of the Mariposa County Selective Service Board, and a director of the Mariposa County State Employment Relief Administration and played an important part in the completion of the Mariposa Airport.

Prior to his retirement he was given the Interior Department’s award for Meritorious Service. After retirement he made his home on a ranch near Mariposa, California. He died July 13, 1963, and was buried in the Mariposa cemetery.

His wife Grace, son Herbert, and daughter Charlotte remain in Yosemite Valley. Grace worked in the Yosemite Post Office many years. Herbert is a Yosemite Park Ranger. Charlotte married a local Yosemite man. Again, another pioneer family has played an important part in the development and expansion of Yosemite National Park.

CHAPTER IX

Crises in Trail Maintenance

Minimum maintenance on trails was done by rangers during World War II. Most of our young rangers and Yosemite employees were called to the military and the war buildup in 1942.

The Author recalls his many experiences during the war years in Yosemite National Park, when he was in charge of a large park district. With no mature help but the same responsibilities it became a challenge each day to know what was best to do. The forest fire protection of the Hetch Hetchy and Lake Eleanor Reservoirs and the his mind. With high school and college boys, a few older men declared 4-F, we were able to maintain a 24 hour protection of the park. I was in charge of the Mather Range District, a high fire hazard area, during the early years of the war and was responsible for the protection of the Hetch Hetchy and Lake Eleanor Reservoirs and the entire watershed. The California National Guard was finally assigned to take over the protection of the two dams and reservoirs, which were priority number one. The rangers patrolled and maintained the trails, clearing trees and logs out of trails, repairing washouts, so pack trains could get through in case of emergencies. The suppression of forest fires was a big problem, due to lack of man-power. But we had the help of the California Guard in all emergencies. While the voune men fought in the war, we “older rangers” were left to guard our forests and parks. It was our patriotic duty to maintain and serve our rich heritage.

Our career rangers at that time were trying to carry more than their load. I recall one special detail, Ranger John Hansen, Ross Cecil, and William Bluett, working extra time on a short cut trail from the Lake Eleanor trail to Kibbie Lake. This new short cut was all inside the boundary of the Yosemite Park, and was in a hazardous fire area, where distance was an important factor in getting to a forest fire as quickly as possible. There were no helicopters, nor fire-jumpers in those days; all we had were hand tools. Hansen scouted out the location for the most direct trail and for protection patrols; so his trail was incorporated into the main Kibbie Lake Trail, and we call it the John Hansen Trail.

One day late in June, 1943, Ranger Bill Davies, two young high school boys, and I were clearing logs from the Hetch Hetchy trail. We had started that morning with food and sleeping gear, my two pack mules, and a saddle horse. We had planned to camp at the City Trail Camp about five miles distant at the Rancheria Creek crossing. Working along the trail bordering the reservoir we sawed out ten downed trees and arrived at the planned camp site about four-thirty P. M. While unpacking I heard a moan or low wail coming from an old tool house about three hundred yards up the trail. This was a Closed Military Area, and no one was permitted in here during the war. Then we heard the sound again, only this time it sounded more like a cry for help. I told Bill to watch the back of the tool house while I went to the front door. As I neared the building, a voice from inside called. I was armed, so trusting on the old 45 Colt, I kicked the door open. Inside, on the floor covered with pine needles, lay a man that looked like a skeleton. He said, “I am starved. Give me food. Today I was ready to die.” After eating some food, he said, “I came across country dodging the Draft, and saw I was in a Military zone, so decided to wait, and see what would happen.”

It was up to me to take him in to the California Guard, for interview, and later he was turned over to the Military Prison for the duration of the War.

In the Spring of 1940, an Army P-38, Night Fighter with two pilots aboard, was reported lost and probably down somewhere east of Fresno in the Sierra. This plane was not found until early summer when a patrol and some horseback parties were riding in the Moraine Meadows. As they were attracted to the scene by the horses, they smelled the dead bodies of the two pilots, what was left of them after bears had been working on the flesh of the two men.

Ranger Bell and I were notified to investigate. We started at once for the scene of the accident, to guard the plane and valuable equipment until the Army Rescue Team arrived from the Fresno Army Base. We assisted the Major in bringing out the salvaged equipment and bodies.

Much time and effort was spent in searching for lost persons. It was not only expensive for the ranger department but it also jeopardized the lives of all searchers. Many times on searches rangers took chances where one misstep could cost a life; so the ranger files of strange accidents through the years read like a story book.

During World War II when the number of rangers were at a minimum, such dangers and hazards were shared by a very few men. There was no time, no money, no workmen to maintain the trail system.

War is not the only deterrent of conservation. Lack of sufficient funds and thousands, yes millions, of tourists can have a devastating effect upon a system of trails. Weather and climate leave their imprint.

Mr. Hil Oehlmann, President of the Yosemite Park and Curry Company in Yosemite National Park, in a letter to Park Superintendent John C. Preston, dated September, 1965 made a specific report on the deplorable condition of our back-country trails. “In my opinion the funds allotted for maintenance of trails have been inadequate for many years. In my pack trips into various regions in the park I have observed that work has consisted largely of grooming the trails in the forest and meadow areas, while the rocky sections, which in many instances require virtual reconstruction, have received little attention, doubtless because money for such costly work has not been available. Many sections of trail have degenerated into rocky water courses, difficult for hikers and hazardous for stock.

“With the constantly increasing use of the High Sierra by hikers, backpackers, and saddle parties, it appears urgent that a large scale program of trail reconstruction and maintenance be undertaken.

“Suggestions of a hope that the Park Service soon will undertake construction of a new trail to connect Sunrise and Vogelsang High Sierra Camps. The many thousands who visit Yosemite’s superb back country for a true wilderness experience will greatly appreciate whatever can be done to make these trips more agreeable by reducing the hazards and discomforts of bad trail conditions.”

Numerous private pack parties, as well as the saddle parties Mr. Oehlmann refers to have made comments on the hazardous trail conditions at places where there should be more improvements made. Again it is the steep rocky portions that could stand major repairs.

The horse trail from Happy Isles to the Vernal Fall bridge is poorly laid out; it is too steep and should be relocated. This is particularly important because during the peak of the season two saddle parties a day go to the top of Nevada Fall, and most of the riders are inexperienced. There is only one place on the trail where two saddle or pack trains can pass in safety.

Beyond Nevada Falls above Twin Bridges the rocky section of the trail is quite dangerous. Over the years a number of mule trains have rolled over the zigzags.

I believe it would be advantageous for a horse and foot bridge across the Merced River in Yosemite Valley near the site of the former Swinging Bridge; because of large numbers of automobiles using the main bridges. Many hikers and saddle parties are using the trails throughout the season.

My philosophy is that the purpose of life is to spend it for something that outlives you. I feel that I found my niche as a member of the National Park Service, a conservation agency.

I quote from Secretary Udall’s book, “Guarding the Treasured Lands:” “So long as evening campfires burn throughout the land, so long as the park ranger stands beside these wonders of nature and of men, then will the spirit of Stephen T. Mather be pleased. For he will know that the National Park Service is keeping the nation’s heritage the way he wanted . . . safe and sound for the benefit and enjoyment of future generations.”

Much praise should go to John Muir for his persistent efforts to save the wild country and our National Parks. His many letters and numerous books are a source of great inspiration, and our readers will find it well worth the time to learn just a little of his vast knowledge and experiences.

Here is one of Muir’s sayings, “Then it seemed to me the Sierra should be called not the Nevada, or Snowy Range, but the Range of Light, and after many years spent in the heart of it, rejoicing and wondering, bathing in its glorious floods of light, seeing the sunbursts of morning among the icy peaks, the noonday radiance on the trees and rocks and snow, the flush of the alpenglow, and a thousand dashing waterfalls with their marvelous abundance of irised spray, it still seems to me above all others the Range of Light, the most divinely beautiful of all mountain chains I have ever seen.”

CHAPTER X

My Last Patrol

There is something in me and, no doubt, in many of us that longs ungovernably for the wild and savage in Nature. I was most fortunate in spending most of my life fulfilling that longing.

A brilliant after-glow flushed the snow on Kuna Crest to a vivid rose and burned on Mt. Gibbs and Dana in a strange, deep, rusty red. Lying snugly rolled that night in my blankets, I noticed the sky, which was clear of clouds, filled with a greater myriad of stars than I ever observed before. The strange color of the mountain as we saw it from camp was now explained. Both Dana and Gibbs are entirely different in formation from other peaks; they are not built of granite but of metamorphic slates, red, green, and purple in color, often in multi-colors. The sun had shown hot that day, and the water had run merrily in a myriad of streams under the rocks.

A small lake, now officially named “Bingaman Lake” at 11,000 feet elevation, fed by snowbanks lies high on Kuna Crest, and here blows an eternal wind. I feel a solemnity in this vast mountain summit. John Muir said, “Climb the mountains and get their good tidings.” So the love of nature and God’s creation had opened up to me a new wonderful future. “Narrow is the way, which leadeth unto life, and few there be that find it.” (Math. 7: 14)

Here grows a great variety of flowers in this lovely alpine meadow; here are columbines of yellow and rose; pentstemons, crimson, pink, and blue; and the red and yellow mimulus, most unique of all the Sierra flowers.

The evening clouds are remarkably beautiful, rose, greys, purples and yellow that cast a spell over the area, and here one may dream of things long ago. It is a nostalgic feeling, but a pleasant one, as the end of my career draws near. There will be memories, again and again, of these pictures in my mind.

Out over the canyon meadows comes the sound of the bell on my trusty saddle horse, which gives a peaceful song that all is serene, and that tomorrow will be the last patrol. As I sit by the last campfire, in pleasant review I pass the experiences of many years, living among friends and with nature. The mysteriously vanished exultations, the solemn glories of sunrise and sunset, the communion with stately trees, the roaring of rivers, the starlight peaks in solemn awe; and over the Range of Light there comes a . . . shadow. The twilight is near. Memory is one of beauty through tears and smiles of yesterday. My dreams of yesteryear have gone. Almost all were fulfilled. Memories of the past flash before me, beauty in its many manifestations, smiles as life dealt the cards, troubles and trials, and joys and happiness.

So, tomorrow on my last patrol, I want you to know that when I cross the last summit, and ride down the Path of Life, my last conscious thoughts will be the love of this great heritage, The Sierras, The Range of Light, and The Service.

Farewell O Ranger.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

L. H. Bunnell, Discovery of the Yosemite.

Joseph Le Conte, Early Trails to Yosemite Region.

James M. Hutching’s, In the Heart of the Sierras, 1888.

Carl P. Russell, 100 Years in Yosemite, 1947.

C. Frank Brockman, The Era of Trails. Yosemite Nature Notes, 1943.

Vincent Merritt’s letter, Yosemite Research Library.

Yosemite Valley Commissioners, Letters and books, Yosemite Research Library.

Army Officers Reports, General file, Yosemite Research Library.

Col. Harry C. Benson’s letters and reports. General files.

Gabriel Sovulewski, Yosemite Nature Notes, 1928. General file.

Annual Report U.S. Military Academy, Yosemite Research Library, 1925.

Francis P. Farquhar, Yosemite Nature Notes.

Kenneth J. Fryer, letters, Yosemite Research Library.

The Author’s memoirs, 1918-1956.

Allan Nevins, “Fremont,” quotations from the book Fremont are used by special permission and may not be reprinted in any way whatsoever without permission in writing from the publisher.

Maps

These maps appears in Pathways. Click on the map to enlarge.

- Guide Map of Yosemite National Park. Appeared between pages 23 and 24.

- Sketch Map of Yosemite Region. “ early routes & centers & with present-day place names included for reference.” Appeared facing bibliography.

- Topographic map of Mono Pass area. Bingaman Lake is shown on the map on the lower left corner, just west of Mono Pass. Appeared facing inside back cover.

[Editor’s note: Bingaman apparently included this topo map of the Sierra crest area around Dana and Gibbs to show the location of Bingaman Lake, which he discovered and named for himself! The Lake is located about 2 miles east of Mono Pass and is at the lower left of the map.—dea]

http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/pathways/