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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

r r r Title page r Contents r Acknowledgements r Foreword r An Invitation to Hike r Approaches to Hiking r Brief History of Guided Hikes in Tuolumne Meadows r Recommended Equipment r Cautions r How You Can Help r To Begin r Hike Classificationr r r

r r r The Hiking Programr r I. Lembert Dome r II. Dog Lake r III. Elizabeth Lake r IV. Cathedral Lake and Upper Cathedral Lake r V. Gaylor Lakes and Vicinity r VI. Mono Pass and Historic Golden Crown Mines r VII. Young Lakes r VIII. Mt. Hoffmann r IX. Waterwheel Falls and Glen Aulin r X. Vogelsang Pass and High Sierra Camp r XI. Clouds Rest r XII. Mt. Dana r r r List of Hikes, Walks, and Caravans in Tuolumne Meadows r Bibliography of General References r Recommended Works on Hiking in the High Sierra r Animals and Plants r A Check-List of Birds-1959 r r r

r r r r r [click to enlarge]r r Cover, with view of Lembert Domer r

About the Author

r r r r r [click to enlarge]r r r Bernice and Allan Shields, circa 1993r r r

r Allan Edwin Shields was born July 3, 1919 in Columbus, Ohio.r He married Bernice Clark in 1941 and had 4 children.r Shields received an AB from University of California, Berkeley in 1941,r a MA from University of Southern California in 1947,r and a Ph.D. in 1951.r In between served in the Army during World War II, 1942-45 becoming a Sergeant.r Dr. Shields was at San Diego State University (SDSU)r during 1949-1968 and 1970-1977, where he became Professor of Philosophy.r He was Professor and Dean at University of Northern Iowa, Cedar Fallsr during 1968-70.r Shields was a seasonal National Park Service Ranger-Naturalistr in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park during 1955-60,r when he wrote this booklet.r

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r After retirement from SDSU in 1978 he moved to his ranch near Yosemite, Jerseydale Ranch.r He took up writing and publishing, with his small press business,r Jerseydale Ranch Press.r Dr. Shields has written or edited several articles and books,r generally philosophy articles as a professor,r and popular writings on Yosemite and Mariposa County in retirement.r These include:r

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• A Bibliography of Bibliographies in Aesthetics (1974)
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• A Bibliography of the Works of F. C. S. Schiller: With an Introduction To Pragmatic Humanism (co-author, 1974)
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• A Yosemite Adventure in 1863: And Other Tales of Early Days in Mariposa County (editor, 1992)
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• Mariposa Now and Then (1993)
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• The Song of Sonora (1993)
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• Tragedy of Tenaya: A Yosemite Indian Story (fiction, 1993)
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• A Yosemite Naturalist’s Odyssey: Journals and Drawings by William L. Neely (editor, 1994)
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• What Animals Taught Me (1994)
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• Climb Every Mountain: A Portrait of Carl Sharsmith (editor, 1996)
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• California Storms, Floods, and Other Natural Benefits, 1849-1997: A Documentary (1997)
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• Lemuel Albert Holmes, editor, Mariposa Gazette, 1855-1862 (1997)
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r Dr. Allan Shields lives in near Midpines, California.r His interests, besides the outdoors and nature, include gardening, wine making, playing the violin, and musical criticism.r

Bibliographical Information

r Allan E. Shields (1919-)r Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trailsr (Yosemite: Yosemite Natural History Association: 1960).r Special issue of Yosemite Nature Notes, 39:8.r 41 pages. Color illustrations. 24 cm.r Foreword by Dr. Carl W. Sharsmith.r Saddle stitched with illustrated paper covers.r

r Digitized by Dan Anderson, January 2007,r from a personal copy.r These files may be used for any non-commercial purpose,r provided this notice is left intact.r
r     —Dan Anderson, www.yosemite.ca.usr

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

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r r r r r [click to enlarge]r r John Muirr r (from a painting by Herbert A. Coffins)r

r COVER — Lembert Dome—McCrary, NPSr

r Guide tor
r TUOLUMNEr
r MEADOWSr
r TRAILSr

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r IN COOPERATION VITH THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

CONTENTS

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

r I am especially grateful for help from several people and one institutionr in readying the manuscript for publication:r

r From Will Neely, Carl Sharsmith, and Corinne Sparks for criticism andr comment.r

r From Paul McCrary, Assistant Park Naturalist, for fine photography andr hiking beyond the immediate call of duty.r

r From L. Dawn Loberg, of the Museum Staff, for deciphering the originalr manuscript and typing the rough draft.r

r From Mrs. Pat Anderson of San Diego, for rapid typing of the finalr draft (first form).r

r From one institution, the Tuolumne Meadows Store, for selling me sor many candles, without whose gentle radiance the writing could not haver been accomplished in Tuolumne!r

r Tuolumne Meadows from Lembert Domer     —Anderson, NPSr

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

FOREWORD

r byr
r Carl W. Sharsmithr
r Ranger-Naturalistr

r The visitor in Tuolumne Meadows who is unfamiliar with the regionr and who at the same time wants to explore for himself some of its beautifulr and expansive reaches has, at the outset, numerous questions in mind. Her (or she!) is rightfully aware that a wealth of interest and scenic charm liesr hidden in the landscape but, he asks, “Which direction shall I go?” “Howr far is it?” “How long will it take?” “Is it steep?” “What if I don’t know muchr about hiking?” These and numerous other questions this booklet tries tor answer. It has been written by one who is thoroughly familiar not only withr the terrain but also with the needs of those eager for first-hand acquaintancer with it. The choice of hikes it recommends is excellent and the graded seriesr a happy thought.r

r As its author indicates within its pages this program of self-guided hikesr is intended as a supplement to the hikes regularly scheduled and guidedr by the ranger-naturalists. For those unacquainted with the area, obviouslyr it cannot with advantage be a substitute for these. Nothing, not even ther best of printed instructions and information, can replace a living mentor, onr the spot, who knows what he sees, knows what perhaps you fail to see, andr who is able to inform you about them in a way that will interest you keenly.r The great popularity of the naturalist conducted hikes over the years is goodr evidence of this. Intersperse your activities with some of these, and your ownr hikes will be enriched.r

r Depending upon your length of stay all the hikes described in this selfquided program might easily be accomplished by you in a single season.r Even should you do so you will realize you have but just begun your explorations. You, however, will have provided yourself with a sound backgroundr of practical experience and of knowledge. So begin! The sparkling beautyr of Tuolumne’s meadows, forests, streams, lakes and mountains beckons your to come, see and enjoy.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

AN INVITATION TO HIKE

r For almost 100 years hikers haver recognized Tuolumne Meadows asr an ideal place in which to experiencer all the pleasures, satisfactions, andr values of moving closer to nature.r The unity of one’s very being seemsr to occur as if by magic through ther simple device of presenting oneself to the region.r

r Though it is impossible to conveyr the full meaning of this common feeling, it can be said that there arer many occasions when raw andr lovely nature fairly forces herself onr us. Glacial polish begs us to feel ther shining, smooth surfaces of graniter with our fingers. Flowers require usr to hold up their heads for a closerr inspection. Odors delight us—pennyroyal mint, the balsam of red fir,r the strong savor of wild onions,r the sweet scent of a broken leaf ofr laborador tea bush — all conveyr sensations so inherently exciting thatr we want to share them with others.r The tastes of the clear, cold watersr r of high mountain streams and lakes,r of the needles of lodgepole pine orr whitebark pine, of the seed of ther whitebark pine, flavorful to ther Clark’s nutcracker, Sierra chickareer and human beings alike, help us tor feel and learn the keen varieties ofr nature. The sounds of wind andr water, the call of Clark’s nutcracker,r the chatter of chickaree, the whistler of Belding ground squirrel and ther clop-clop of some camper choppingr wood are all easily forgotten whenr we leave, but quicken our sensesr when we return to them.r

r Visions of rugged mountain formations delight us. The Range of Lightr (the Sierra Nevada) creates texturesr and colors that artists constantly findr inspiring. A standing dead tree displays a spectrum of grays, browns,r reds and blacks; the Clark, Ranger exhibits its own palette of colors.r Summer thunderstorms, nature’sr overtures to the next seasonal act,r compel our attention to the parts ofr the whole display which in retrospectr we put together as a unity and maker the lesson a part of ourselves.r

r Just as a camera must be selective,r and can, at its realistic best, simplyr create a potential and vicariousr experience, language such as thisr can do no more than invite participation in the direct experience. Thatr alone can effect the conviction ofr unity. It is required of us that we getr out of our cars, out of the campground, even, at times, off the trail,r before we can truly and humbly present ourselves to Nature. We need tor hike!r

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r Western White Piner r r     —McCrary, NPSr

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

APPROACHES TO HIKING

r There are several ways to approach a hike. Mountaineers recommend different attitudes to strike. It isr largely a matter of objectives andr values.r

r For example, the geological surveyor needs to ascend mountains,r thoughtful of getting his job done.r Carrying equipment to the summit ofr Mt. Conness or Mt. Hoffman requiresr a unique route, timing and physicalr training that most people do not desire.r

r Further, the endurance hiker takesr pleasure in ascending and descending as much terrain as possible inr the shortest time, if we are to believer his conversations. Let us denominater this person “the austerity hiker,” reminding ourselves what may ber missing in his approach.r

r Rock climbers are a sort apartr from our considerations. In addition,r considerable mountaineering skill isr required of the fisherman, that single-mindedr devotee of sport, of ther cross-country skier, the mule string driver,r and the fire fighter.r

r For the hiker who wants to knowr in some detail the birds he hears andr sees, the flowers nodding to him inr the meadows and on rocky slopes,r the meanings of the geological signsr in the rocks and mountain formation,r the human history of the region, ther character and marks of the trees,r shrubs, and other plants—for thisr person John Muir set the pattern.r Muir’s habit was to walk up mountains, observing very closely whatever chanced to stop him — a newr flower, a rock formation, a bird —r and to give little thought to his pre-arranged schedule. Though somer hikes require fairly careful planning,r all of these trips described here needr only a rough time-table, and a minimumr r of physical conditioning. Sincer Tuolumne Meadows lie at 8585 feetr (at the Campground Ranger Station),r a day or two of adjustment will usually be required. After that, ther graded hikes themselves will provide all the physical conditioningr necessary. The primary principler that is recommended to follow is tor take plenty of time for each trip.r Rest when you feel like it. Stop tor look and listen. Saunter when your can. In this spirit, your hiking willr prove most rewarding.r

r More specifically, what are somer reasons for hiking?r

r Not necessarily in order of importance, these are some reasons whichr people give for hiking:r

r Recreation - Pecple enjoy beingr outdoors, with all of the excitementr of novelty, hazards, and simpler physical well-being which accompany the experience. A few recognize that the outdoors exertion atr high altitude actually helps in recreating their personhood, helps themr to find depths of feeling, emotion,r contentment, and inspiration not conveyed by the term recreation alone.r

r Knowledge - Being on the spot,r seeing the evidence before oner brings the perennial thrill of originalr discovery to each searcher alone, nor matter how many times previouslyr the discovery has been made. Onr hikes we can learn the terrain, gainr an intimate association with ther mountains and natural features inr general, including plants, trees, andr animals. A knowledge of the humanr history can greatly enhance ther simpler pleasures of hiking.r

r Appreciation for conservationr The natural features of the regionr r r r mutely teach their own eloquent lessons in balance of forces to thoser ready to learn. The keen specialization of nature, the inter-relationshipsr among plants, birds, and insectsr can be studied casually or profoundly with profit by the discerning hiker.r

r Esthetic delights - To relearn ther sensitivities that may have been unused recurs to many as an annualr revelation. Sounds, sights, odors,r feelings, and other sense stimuli allr seem heightened by the mountainr atmosphere. It is as though, byr r sloughing our overcivilizing encrustations, we have suddenly becomer hyperaesthetic. And since we cannot fill our eyes to satiety, we returnr often to seek again, and possibly tor enlarge the aesthetic delights ofr former experiences.r

r Getting away - Some have givenr this reason for going to the mountains. This negative approach seemsr warped, if really held. Rather, wer may take our postive cue from Muir,r who felt that going to the mountainsr was going home.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

BRIEF HISTORY OF GUIDED HIKESr IN TUOLUMNE MEADOWS

r John Muir first hiked, scrambled,r and climbed around this elevatedr country in the year 1869, and continued making his insightful studiesr of nature until the year of his deathr by pneumonia in 1914. Before him,r the Yosemite (Miwok) Indians, andr others, frequently hiked in the regionr for reasons of commerce, cultural exchange, and subsistence. Theser people were greatly skilled in getting about in the mountains, oftenr chasing game to mountain tablelands and summits, where animals would be ambushed by stationed hunters. Arrowheads, foundr throughout the high mountains, attestr to the Indian’s wandering.r

r For nearly thirty years, Tuolumner Meadows has held an enviable reputationr for its hiking program conductedr under the direction of ranger-naturalistsr who have been trained inr mountaineering, the natural sciences,r and the history of the regionr Ranger-naturalist Carl Sharsmithr without doubt, has been the mostr important single person responsibler for the development of theser r activities. Under his spirited direction, the program has grown tor include more than 50 all-day hikes,r and 20 half-day hikes, nature walks,r bird walks, and many specializedr activities.r

r Several main principles haver served the naturalists in this region.r Among them are these: 1) that ther uninitiated, with some guidance,r can quickly learn to find his wayr around in the mountains, and canr learn to conduct himself in such ar manner that he will succeed in doingr with pleasure what he may onlyr fearfully avoid, if left to his ownr devices; 2) that the main object,r apart from accurate and meaningfulr interpretation of the numerous factsr connected with the area, is to help ther novice to become independent andr secure in the mountains; 3) that ther means to achieve these objectivesr are, most directly, the campfire programs that have inspired so manyr to undertake some aspects of ther scheduled events, and especially,r the all-day hikes and others, whichr infuse the participant with the zealr r r r to continue to discover for himselfr the great riches that lie about one inr Tuolumne.r

r John Muir’sr admonition still soundsr the keynote of the naturalist conducted trips:r

r “Climb the mountains and getr their good tidings. Nature’s peacer will flow into you as sunshine flowsr into trees. The winds will blow theirr own freshness into you, and ther storms their energy, while cares willr drop off like autumn leaves.”r

r This booklet is intended for thatr park visitor who is unfamiliar withr the region, probably inexperiencedr in hiking, but who is willing to expend a little thought and energy tor garner to himself some of the peacer and energy of the mountains. It is ar r supplement to the regularly scheduled guided hikes and is in no senser a substitution for them. Few of usr are so able in learning a complicated skill that we can afford to dor without a mentor entirely. The trulyr independent hiker will want to dor both: to take conducted trips, and tor follow this program independently.r

r It is our hope that by grading ther hikes, the visitor will be enabled tor start with comparatively simple butr infinitely rewarding trips, and gradually advance to the more strenuousr and trying hikes when he will haver achieved a solid orientation in ther region and confidence in his abilityr to hike. He can then graduate tor complete independence in the Park.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

r Hiking equipment is so various,r and tastes so condition choice, thatr only general recommendations arer included.r

r Footwear - Two pairs of socks,r one thin, one heavy, are advisabler to prevent blisters and sores. Socksr with holes or darned spots will causer blisters. Stout shoes with rubber orr composition soles are a necessity onr the granite slopes which abound inr the region. They will cling safely tor weathered granite slopes. Leatherr soles are dangerous.r

r r Clothing - During the day, the radiant sunshine will warm one, except on higher elevations where ther wind blows daily. Consequently, itr is advisable to carry a jacket whenr ascending a mountain. A simpler back pack makes it convenient tor carry extra articles of clothing,r camera, lunch, etc., but, more important, it enables one to keep hisr r hands free when climbing.r

r r Food - Eat lightly when hiking,r especially when going out on lessr than an overnight trip. It is a goodr idea, if going very far, to carry ar modest amount of extra food, in caser of emergency. Most hikers feel waterr from streams is safe for drinking.r Public health officials do not agree!r They declare all natural waters suspect and recommend treatment before consumption.r

r r Literature - A great deal of literature is available for purchase atr modest, non-profit prices through ther Museum in Yosemite Valley, and atr outlying stations. Especially valuable are ther Yosemite Nature Notesr issues which are devoted to specialr features. For a start, select those onr coniferous trees, wildflowers, geology,r r r r and the Yosemite Indians. Morer extensive works on these and otherr topics are listed on p. 201 where ar bibliography is provided.r

r r Binoculars - A convenience at first,r this piece of equipment can greatlyr enhance your trips, especially whenr viewing birds.r

r r Topographic map - A map of ther Yosemite region can be purchasedr at any ranger-naturalist station. Thisr map is indispensable for accurater r estimates of distances, climbs, etc.,r and for identification of lakes, mountains,r canyons, etc. Any ranger-naturalistr will be glad to help your to learn to read it. Other maps arer also available, as well as trailr guides.r The rarified atmosphere in Tuolumne Meadows makes sunburn lotion advisable. Early in the season,r June and July, mosquitoes are common and hungry, particularly nearr lakes and snowfields.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

SOME CAUTIONS RAISED ANDr FEARS ALLAYED

r Altitude hiking and conditioningr recommendations - People in normalr health have nothing to fear aboutr beginning the graded program afterr being in the region for a couple ofr days. If in doubt, consult your physician. Most of the hikes require climbing, and that means exertion. Afterr the initial stiffness gained by the inactive person taking ther Lembert Domer andr Dog Laker hikes, the additional hiking will actually help limber the muscles. Headaches are normal at the beginning of one’s stay atr high altitudes. They should disappear, without medication, in a coupler of days.r r

r r Snakes - In Tuolumne Meadowsr region there is one snake, ther garterr (16, p. 37).* There are no rattlesnakes, or seriously poisonous insects.r

r *See Bibliography on p. 201.r Number refers to corresponding work on the list.r

r r Children - Generally speaking,r children suffer mildly the same difficulties as adults, but evidence discomfort in different ways. After conditioning, there is no reason whyr children of 5 years or older shouldr not enjoy hiking with their parents.r A child is lost when he cannot findr the way back. Not knowing exactlyr where you are does not mean thatr you are lost. We rarely know exactly where we are. Instruct your children that when they cannot find theirr way “home”, that they should remain in one place and wait for help.r Of course, any suspected case of ar lost child (or adult) should be reported to the District Ranger at once.r

r r Bears - Ther r black bear (12, p. 82)r is a wild animal and is dangerous tor humans. Do not feed them. Do notr store food in tents or sleeping bags.r Bears have been known to rip openr cans to obtain food. Hang food highr between trees. Bears are usuallyr frightened away if an empty tin canr is tossed toward them. Bears may ber dangerous, if provoked.r

r r Illness, injury, and other emergencies - Report immediately suchr difficulties to the District Ranger, orr r r r any of the other rangers. Do not attempt to remove a person alone.r Send for help, or go get it.r

r r On getting lost - Few persons findr themselves lost if they have learnedr the region gradually. Anyone whor has followed the program describedr here will have to try hard to get lost.r However, it is possible to becomer confused and disoriented. Whenr leaving for a hike, always let someone know where you are going, howr you will go and return, and when.r Then, if you really feel lost, stayr where you are. Help will come. Byr staying on the trail, you greatly minimize the chances of getting confused, and enhance the possibilitiesr of being found.r

r r Fires - Except in the campground,r you are required to obtain a permitr to build a fire in the region. Permitsr are free, and are quickly deliveredr at all ranger stations. Consultr any ranger regarding regulations.r

r In places where campfires arer permitted, be careful, at higher elevations especially, to keep firesr small, and see that they are completely out when leaving. Roots ofr the whitebark pine may smolderr for weeks, killing 500 years ofr growth. Be careful. Build your fire ar considerable distance (15 feet) fromr trunks. See that no exposed rootsr are near. Use old fire places.r

r r Firewood - Park policy states thatr visitors may burn only dead woodr that is down. Standing dead treesr are to be preserved as natural features of the region, no matter howr strongly you are antagonized byr dead trees that stay upright. There isr plenty of wood that is down. Thatr others may share it after you, buildr small fires, and use only as muchr wood as you need.r r

r r Trash disposal - The best policyr regarding trash is the general rule,r “Don’t leave the area as clean asr you found it — leave it cleaner.”r Burn all trash and garbage, flattenr cans, after burning them out, thenr carry them out to the nearest trashr can. In this way, the Sierra Nevadar can be kept in wilderness condition.r You will find what looks like trashr dumps at some camps. Increasedr high country travel makes suchr dumps out of date and unsightly. Dor not contribute to their accumulations.r r r

r r General Cautions - Sand or gravelr over granite is very slippery.r

r When traveling up steep slopes,r be extra careful not to dislodger rocks. The dangers are not to you,r but to your companions below.r

r Never throw or roll rocks downr steep slopes or over cliffs. Someoner is probably below, even though your do not see them. Also, you may precipitate a rock slide in loose talus.r

r Do not attempt to descend steepr granite slopes.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

HOW YOU CAN HELP

r 1. Report fires sighted.r
r 2. Report identification of any unusual nature observationsr (mountain lion (12, p. 94),r r Sierra Nevada big horn sheep (12, p. 100),r r wolverine (12, p. 91),r r Mt. Lyell salamander (16, p. 7),r etc.).r
r 3. Leave the area clean.r
r 4. Teach another to hike sensibly.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

TO BEGIN: WALKS

r All of the trips that are describedr are classified as hikes. This meansr that there will be climbing and descending involved, often in rough terrain, over rocks and trees, but each ofr these follows a trail. Differences inr time of year will alter conditions.r Early in July, the ground is almostr always wet with melting snows, andr run-off water from winter storms.r Later in August, conditions are drier.r Occasional thunder showers mayr create minor difficulties. (Shoesr should be impregnated with somer water repellent material.) Thus, ar hike is demanding of energy andr care. Walks, on the other hand, require far less energy and little, ifr any, advance preparation. For somer interesting walks in the region, consult the Ranger on duty at the Campground Ranger Station, or refer tor any reliable map of - the area. Forr example, you might want to take oner of the following walks:r

r r 1. Soda Spring, Tuolumne Meadows, Parson’s Lodge and Sierrar Club Property.r r

r Directions:r

r To Walk, start from the campground ranger station, go directlyr across the road, through the treesr and follow the river west, wherer you will come to an old road bridger somewhat over a mile downstream.r Or approximately parallel the riverr course by walking through the several meadows and small forests thatr precede the large meadow, continuing until you reach the bridge. Crossr the bridge, and walk straight up ther slope to the enclosure which protects the Soda Spring. Parson’s Lodger lies near at hand, the large stoner building, and the caretaker in ther McCauley cabin will be glad tor answer any questions you may haver regarding the Sierra Club. Returnr along opposite side of river until your reach the main road.r

r The Tuolumne River flows near Lembert Dome as it winds its way through the Meadows.r r     —McCrary, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r

r r r

r To drive, leave the campgroundr ranger station, drive across the Tuolumne River Bridge, turn left atr first oiled road, and continue backr over a mile to the parking lot. Followr above directions from the bridge.r

r 2. Lyell Fork of the Tuolumner River. Simply walk parallel to ther river on the south side, following ther river either up or down stream, retracing your steps on return. Duringr low water, wade across and returnr on opposite side.r

r 3. Dana Meadows. Drive to Tiogar Pass, parking either on the right orr left before leaving the Park. Walkr out into the meadows toward Mt.r Dana (south side), exploring multipler glacial moraines, ponds, forests, andr meadows. You might want to climbr part way up on the lower slopes ofr the mountain for unusual wildflowersr and birds.r

r 4. Tuolumne Meadows High Sierrar Lodge.r

r To drive, cross Tuolumne Riverr Bridge, turning right at first oiledr road, drive back one mile.r

r To walk, cross Tuolumne Riverr Bridge, cut through meadow on trailr to the right, following it through meadows and forests until you reach ther Lodge. By closely paralleling eitherr the Dana Fork of the river, or ther oiled road you will reach the Lodge.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

HIKE CLASSIFICATION

r (approximate figures only)r

r All of the following hikes arer graded on a five point scale, as follows: (mileage given means roundr trip)r

r 1. Easy half-day (or less) - Involvesr a climb of 1000 feet or less;r under five miles.r

r 2. Easy all-day - Involves a climbr of 1500 feet or less; under 8r miles.r

r 3. Moderate all-day - Involves ar climb of 2000 feet or less; underr 10 miles.r

r 4. Strenuous all-day - Involvesr steep climbs of 2000-2500 feet;r 10 to 12 miles.r

r 5. Very strenuous all-day - Involves steep climbs, descents,r of 2000 to 3000 feet; 10 to 15r miles.r

r Disagreements abound over ther distinctions of these grades, but theyr appear to be sufficiently helpful tor use as guides. Remember, they referr to the effect on a person who is usedr to the region and fairly well conditioned physically.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

THE HIKING PROGRAM

r General Information:r

r 1. Since the region covered byr these hikes is adequately detailedr in other publications readily available, little additional detail is included in these descriptions otherr than outstanding features most likelyr to be encountered. Instead there arer included numbered references tor particular works by page in ther bibliography.r For example, since ther r Clark’s nutcracker (crow)r will probably be heard and seen on the sidesr ofr Lembert Domer and aroundr Gaylor Lakesr his name is mentioned, followed by the number 1, which refersr to the Yosemite Nature Notes entitledr “Birds of Yosemite”.r The page reference in this issue then follows, thus:r (1, p. 115).r

r 2. The point of origin and return isr always the Campground Ranger Station at the entrance to the Tuolumner r Meadows campground.r

r 3. Mileage figures are alwaysr given as round trip. Short side tripsr sometimes mentioned are additional.r

r 4. It is urged that your hike ber made more complete by doing somer exploring in the vicinity of your objective.r Though it may be unnecessaryr to say so, you should notr hesitate to leave the trail for shortr distances. if something intriguesr you. For example, while on top ofr Lembert Dome, you may want tor walk down to the large ledge towardr the river bridge, or you mayr want to walk out on the back shoulderr of the Dome to see the erraticr slope before descending through ther forest.r

r The Campground Ranger Station is the beginning pointr for all hikes described herein.r r     —McCrary, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

I. LEMBERT DOME

r (1-easy halfr day, 900 ft., 4 miles).r

r The summit of this Tuolumne landmark provides a commanding viewr of practically the entire Tuolumner Meadows region, including Mt. Lyell,r the highest park prominence (13,114r ft.) and Mt. Dana, the second highestr (13.053 ft.). On this hike it is possibler to find all seven of ther r cone bearingr trees (3)* of the region by makingr the circle trip (see below).r

r Lembert Dome is named for Johnr Baptist Lembert who homesteaded inr Tuolumne in 1885, raising Angorar goats between 1889-90, finally patenting his land in 1895. He was murdered in his cabin on Cascade Creekr in 1896; his property passed to hisr brother, who then sold it to the McCauley brothers in 1898. Lembert’sr property included the Sierra Clubr property and the Soda Spring. Ther Sierra Club purchased the propertyr in 1912 and it is still (1960) in theirr title.r

r Directions: Find the trail by crossing the bridge of the Tuolumner River, continue to the base of ther r dome, following through the forestr or across the meadow, keeping tor your left around the dome base untilr you reach the small, buildingr which houses a radio transmitter.r The main trail begins immediatelyr behind the building. After you haver climbed about 2/3 of the ridge, your will reach a trail division. Take ther right hand trail, following it to ther back shoulder of the dome. Whenr you reach the top of the back shoulder, turn right and follow the naturalr contour toward the summit (southerly). Though there is no trail fromr the shoulder, there are obvious easyr routes up the granite slope to ther summit. Look for the register to sign.r DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DESCENDr BY WAY OF THE SLOPE OF THEr DOME. IT IS VERY DANGEROUS.r

r To return, simply retrace steps.r Better still, make a circle trip by returning to the back shoulder andr turning right down through the forest,r staying close enough to the Dome tor keep your bearings. By followingr the dome base down through ther forest, you will come out on ther main road. Turn right and walk backr r r r

r A commanding view ofr Yosemite’s high country canr be obtained from the top ofr Lembert Dome.r r     —McCrary, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r

r r r

r Sierra junipersr seem to preferr solitude andr seek out ther desolate wind-r swept graniter slopes. Thisr one grows onr Lembert Dome.r r r [click to enlarge]r r r —McCrary, NPSr

r r r

r Special features: Only seven cone-bearing trees occur in Tuolumne. Byr making the circle trip, you may findr all seven. On the way up, watchr for the lodgepole pine (3, p. 21),r mountain hemlock (3, p. 34) and ther western white pine (3, p. 16). On ther lower slopes of the dome, afterr starting out on the granite, watch forr a few whitebark pines 3, p. 19). Onr the way down, look for Californiar red fir (3, p. 29), Jeffrey pine (3, p.r 10), and Sierra juniper (3, p. 44).r

r Lembert Dome abounds in glacialr evidence. Erratic boulders are evident on the back shoulder in profusion.r Look and feel under the rocksr for glacial polish that has weatheredr very little. Do not move rocks. Fromr the summit one can look over onr many square miles of scoured granite, and understand why Muir refersr to Tuolumne as an area of maximalr glaciation (6, 21, 39).r

r Birds most commonly encounteredr include the Clark’s nutcracker (1,r p. 115), mountain chickadee (1, p.r 115), and the Oregon junco (1, p. 137).r

r A topographic map will be indispensable in naming the major peaks.r A compass is helpful in orienting ther map, but not necessary.r

r ‘See Bibliography on p. 201. Number refers to corresponding work on the list.r

r r r

r Glacial polishr and erraticr boulders showr that in postr ages, Lembertr Dome wasr overridden byr glaciers.r r —McCrary, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

II. DOG LAKE

r (1-easy half day,r 800 ft., 3 miles).r

r This large lake is surrounded byr forest. From its outlet and south sider one can see Mt. Dana. On the trailr up the ridge before the lake, by looking back at appropriate spots oner finds unusual views of the Cathedralr range — Cathedral Peak, Fairviewr Dome, and the Bishop’s Backbone.r On warm days, a swim will be welcome refreshment after the climb.r You may want to fish, for this lake,r like most in the region, is planted.r Dog Lake contains brook trout (5, p.r 11).r

r Directions: Walk across the Tuolumne River Bridge. By stopping inr the center and looking upstream your may see the confluence of the Lyellr Fork and Dana Fork of the river. Your will be looking up Lyell Fork, primarily. Cross the bridge and continue to first road on left. Almost immediately you will see a dirt roadr blocked by a chain between logr posts. Behind is a sign reading “Driving Across Meadows Prohibited.”r Pass the posts and follow this dirtr r road. Shortly you will find anotherr sign reading “Dog Lake and Youngr Lake.” Continue on this road acrossr a meadow, a granite slab, and intor the forest. On a tree will be a smallr aluminum sign pointing right to ther trail. Simply follow this well wornr trail to the lake. Signs near the laker will prevent your following ther Young Lake trail.r

r To return, retrace your route up.r As an alternative, walk around ther lake on the southerly side aboutr half way, and you will find a fairlyr well-defined trail which will take your down to the main road. Cross ther main road, walking through the forest until you come to the small roadr that runs to the Tuolumne Lodge.r When you find this road, turn rightr and follow it back to the point ofr origin. The distance from the lake tor the main road is one mile.r

r Special features: Trees: Thoughr you will encounter mostly lodgepoler pine (3, p. 21) it is possible to findr mountain hemlock (3, p. 34) on yourr way up the ridge, as well as western white pine (3, p. 16). On ther circle return trip watch for a fewr r r r

r Mts. Dana and Gibbs dominate the skyline in this view from Dog Lake.r r     —Anderson, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

r Several meadows will be encountered near the lake. Here myriadr wildflowers will beg identification,r and never possession. Of course, it isr against park policy to pick any ofr them. In season watch for wild carrot, red heather in the gravel slopes,r especially, in the wet spots, andr Mariposa lily.r

r At the lake, you may see California gulls and other birds mentioned in the Lembert Dome hike.r Listen for the raucous cry of Clark’sr nutcracker, especially when climbing the ridge by Lembert Dome.r

r The “T” blazes on the trees onr your return trip were placed there byr the Army about 50 years ago, whenr part of their function was to patrolr this back country to keep out sheepherders and cattlemen, as well as tor establish trails.r

r Mountain Hemlockr r     —McCrary, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

III. ELIZABETH LAKE

r (1-easy halfr day, 1000 ft., 5 miles).r

r This alpine lake is set in a basinr with a backdrop of the ruggedr splendor of Unicorn Peak, Johnsonr Ridge, and Johnson Peak. Aroundr the edge of the lake are tundra-liker meadows and some large clustersr of lodgepole pine (3, 21). The contrasts, in appropriate seasons, of ther snow, pinkish granites, green forestsr and meadows, and the crystal bluer High Sierra sky make this accessibler lake one of the choicest spots to visitr early in your hiking program.r

r Directions: Walk back on ther campground road to the first turnr to the right, and follow the aluminumr “T” signs on the trees about.2 of ar mile where you will find a “T” withr an arrow on a tree on the left marking the start of the trail up through ther campsites. A few dozen yards ofr trail will bring you out on to a roadr and road material mixing place.r Walk straight up hill across thisr open area where you will find ther trail starts among the trees oncer more. (A metal sign marks the spot).r From here on there will be no confusing the trail. Somewhat steep atr first, the trail will flatten to a gradualr climb all the way to the lake.r

r Possible for an all-day easy hike,r it is listed as a half day hike, thinking you will start up at 8:00 or 8:30,r and return in time for a late lunchr at 1:00 p.m. By walking around ther lake, or by climbing part way upr Unicorn, you will find a full day isr more comfortable. You will not wantr to leave it, once you arrive, so carryr some food in case you wish to remain.r

r Special Features: Most of the cone-bearing trees of the region occur onr this hike (see Lembert Dome, Specialr Features, p. 182). Johnson Peak isr r r r largely composed of one of the threer main kinds of granite of Tuolumne,r which takes its name from this peak.r A pinkish, finely grained granite,r largely homogeneous, with occasional feldspar crystals, it differsr markedly from the more commonr Cathedral Peak granite, or Halfr Dame granite. (See geology exhibitr in campground ranger station).r

r On the side of the lake near Unicorn Peak you will find one of ther largest patches of sphagnum mossr in the park.r

r You may notice the “T” blazes onr the trees as you ascend. It is saidr that these stand for “tree” so that ther recruits in the army patrolling ther area would know they were trees!r Actually, they do mark the old armyr patrol trails, this one continuing onr up over the ridge (obscured in places)r toward Nelson Lake.r

r Elizabeth Lake was named for ar daughter of Dr. and Mrs. Samuel E.r Simmons, of Sacramento.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

IV. CATHEDRAL LAKE AND UPPER CATHEDRAL LAKE

r (2-easy all-day hike, 1200 ft., 6 miles).r

r Upper Cathedral Lake lies 500 feetr above Cathedral Lake, which is situated somewhat below Cathedralr Peak itself, and at the base of Eagler Peak (unofficial title). Both lakesr empty their contents down a cascade (in season) which forms as ar stream, flowing eventually into Laker Tenaya, thence down Tenaya Canyon, Slide Falls, Py-we-ack Fall, Mirror Lake, Merced River, and eventually ending in Lake Yosemite. It isr interesting to note that Lake Yosemite is not in Yosemite, but in Mercedr County, and that Lake Merced is notr in Merced County, but in Yosemite!r At first, this is confusing.r

r Both lakes have rugged glaciatedr settings. From either, one can seer Cathedral Peak, Echo Peaks, Echor Ridge, the Bishop’s Backbone andr Eagle Peak. From the outlet of Cathedral Laker r r r

r Fishing is better in lakes of the back country.r r     —Anderson, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

r Directions: This ancient Indianr trail, now known as the Sunriser Trail, can be reached by driving toward Lake Tenaya 1.5 miles. Driver along the ‘main road across twor streams, the first called Elizabethr Creek, the second Budd Creek, afterr their respective lake sources. Immediately past Budd Creek is a turnoffr and parking area on your left. Findr the trail out of the parking area. Soonr it will cross at right angle to ther trail from Tenaya Lake to Tuolumner Meadows. From this point on, therer is no confusion point on the trail.r Continue up switch backs, aroundr the base of Cathedral Peak (Fairviewr Dome on your right). After roundingr the base of Cathedral Peak, the trailr starts down and parallels Cathedralr Peak. Shortly after the trail starts upr r again, you will find (look sharp) ar sign directing you to the right to Cathedral Lake (about 1/2 mile). Taker this trail. On returning to this pointr after lunch, continue up the trail tor Upper Cathedral Lake, which is offr the trail about two hundred yards onr your right near the top of the pass.r To return, retrace the main trail.r

r Special Features: Probably ther most dramatic feature of this regionr is the sharp contrast between ther heavily glaciated granite domes behind Cathedral Lake and the unglaciated peaks of Cathedral and Echor Peaks and Ridge. Of equal interestr will be the meadow behind the headr of Cathedral Lake, where you canr see very clearly the glacial lakesr becoming meadows. Streams meander all through this portion of ther terrain, alive with the yellow-leggedr frog (16, p. 14). These frogs requirer two seasons to mature at this elevation, the growing season being toor short for them to achieve full growthr during one. Walk around the lake,r noticing the development of meadowr turf.r

r Cathedral Pass provides many panoramic views of Yosemite.r r The Clark Range Rises in the distance.r r     —Anderson, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

r Yosemite’sr early glaciersr were born inr cirques suchr as this oner above Gaylorr Lakes.r r r [click to enlarge]r r r —McCrary, NPSr

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V. GAYLOR LAKES AND VICINITY

r (2-easy all-day hike, 600 ft., 3 to 6r miles).r

r There are three Gaylor Lakes,r lower, middle, and upper. In ther same general basin occur two otherr lakes called Granite Lakes. By extending your hike by 3 miles it isr possible to visit 4 of the 5 lakes. Tor do so would increase the difficulty,r but the rewards are commensurater with the effort, as always. The Gaylorr Lakes occur in meadows, are allr stocked with fish, and are locatedr in a grand space-wasting arena ofr granite and metamorphic rock. Leaving a busy entrance station you willr find yourself, within an hour, in ar wild, primitive haven. Plan to spendr the day exploring, while the man ofr the family may fish successfully.r From the entrance station to Middler Gaylor is a bare one mile.r

r Directions: Drive seven miles tor Tioga Pass entrance station, parkingr on your left before the station house.r At the parking lot you will find ar sign indicating the fisherman’s trailr up over the ridge about 600 feetr above the road. The pass is aboutr r r

r Wind blown lodgepole pine abover Gaylor Lakes.r r     —McCrary, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

r Special Features: Whitebark piner trees become evident very soon upr the trail (3, p. 19). Learn to identifyr this fine high altitude citizen. As your reach the top of the ridge, walk tor the obvious division between ther grey granites and the reddish metamorphic rock of the region. Lookr ahead at the granite ridge and, reversing your view, back at the ranger in the distance, where you will ber able to make out the dividing liner equally well through the region.r Now notice the plants underfoot.r r You will find a yellow-brownr flowered Indian paint brush growingr in profusion on the northerly side ofr the ridge during middle July andr August. Descend to the Middle Gaylor. To the right is a grand talusr slope (broken blocks of granite).r Here you may be favored by ar scolding from a small animal, if your wait a few minutes in the early morning or late afternoon, known by fourr names: rock rabbit, whistling hare,r pika, or cony (12, p. 61). By keepingr to your right around the first lake,r you will soon find an unsurpassedr view of the Cathedral Range behindr Tuolumne Meadows. Additionally,r you will notice myriad wild flowersr in season.r

r For the person who wishes to extend his hike even farther than indicated, move right around Pilot Peakr to Upper Gaylor. At the outlet, facer the prominence slightly to your left,r and you will see a rock cabin. Hiker toward it, keeping the lake on yourr right. Move beyond the cabin to ther pass summit and you will discoverr the original exploratory mine shaftsr and miners’ buildings of the Greatr Sierra Consolidated Silver Miningr Company (33).r

r Skyline from Middle Gaylor Laker r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

r Golden Crown Miner Cabins in Mono Pass,r Mount Lewis at right.r r r [click to enlarge]r r r —Hubbard, NPSr

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VI. MONO PASS AND HISTORIC GOLDEN CROWN MINES

r (3-moderate all-day hike, 1200 ft., 10 miles).r

r On this trip you will travel anr ancient Indian and explorer trail.r The Indians brought pine nuts, obsidian for making arrowheads, andr other articles of subsistence overr from Mono Lake to the westernr slope of the Sierra. Along the trailr you will find old miners’ cabins, andr at the site of the Golden Crownr Mines you will find several mines,r as well as a large cluster of weathered cabins. From the Mono Passr area you will be able to see part ofr Mono Lake and the desert-like expanse running to the White Mountains in Nevada. The Sardine Lakes,r a short way over the pass, inviter fishing.r

r Directions: Drive 5.6 miles up ther road toward Tioga Pass. A parkingr area will be on the right of ther road. By walking straight on downr the road you will find the start of ther trail leading to Mono and Parkerr Passes. Very soon it crosses the Danar Fork of the Tuolumne River. Early inr the season, it may be necessary tor remove socks, shoes, and possiblyr more, to wade across. Follow ther trail and trail signs up to Mono Pass.r The trail parallels Mt. Gibbs’ baser (on your left as you start). Before ther hike is completed you should haver a new appreciation for the size ofr Gibbs and other mountains! To return, retrace your up route. The descent is gradual.r

r Special Features: You may wantr to read “Indians of Yosemite” beforer making this trip, so numerous arer the historical meanings on the way.r Outstanding features are the northerly facing grey cliffs of Kunar Crest (on your right as you go upr the trail). clearly exhibiting severalr cirques glacial polish and erratics,r as seen on Lembert Dome. Contrastr the granite of Kuna Crest with ther red metamorphic quartzite of Gibbs,r r r r Dana, Lewis, and other prominencesr on the higher eastern portion of ther Sierra.r

r Try to find evidences of avalanches in the past as you go alongr the trail, especially the first half.r

r In the rock piles (talus slopes)r along Gibbs stop and wait for ther Yosemite pika (12, p. 61) to presentr himself. Visit the cabins as you discover them, noticing the differentr building methods used (33). Ther Golden Crown Mine cabins are located at the pass; walk right fromr the trail and toward the ridge.r

r As you approach the pass itself,r just before you go out to the clear,r windswept region, you will find, onr your left, one of the largest whitebark pines in the region (3, p. 19).r

r For further exploration, follow ther trail over the pass into Bloody Canyon. It is worth your extra time tor hike about one-half mile down to seer a splendid view of the Mono Basin.r On your way, notice the glacialr polish in the metamorphic formations.r

r A really extended trip can ber made by going up the ridge behindr the Golden Crown Mines, bearingr right, to Parker Pass. Follow ther water course, or trail down to Spillway Lake and Creek. Here you willr discover a fisherman’s trail whichr leads back to Parker Pass-Mono Passr trail.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

VII. YOUNG LAKE

r (4-strenuousr all-day, 1800 ft., 12 miles).r

r Young Lake is situated northeastr of Ragged Peak, and at its base,r half surrounded by lodgepole forest, half by talus slopes from ther nearby ridges of granite. In additionr to Young Lake, there are two otherr lakes above it well worth exploring.r Fishing is good. Camping is permitted,r r and you may want to pack in tor spend a night or more. See the Ranger for a campfire permit. Fromr Young Lake, Mt. Conness displaysr itself splendidly.r

r Directions: Follow the Dog Laker trail to the junction near Dog Laker (p. 183). Dog Lake makes a convenient and beautiful resting spot on ther first leg of your trip and is only ar short distance from the junction. Atr the junction, turn left onto the trail.r There are a series of moraines tor climb and descend, followed byr Moraine Meadow just prior to reaching the base of Ragged Peak. Afterr crossing this point, the trail dropsr down to intersect the one that comesr up from the Glen Aulin trail (Tuolumne River). Follow around the baser of Ragged Peak on the trail to ther lake where you will find campsites.r

r To return, make a circle trip byr taking the trail which joins the Glenr Aulin trail. In other words, after leaving Young Lake, moving around ther base of Ragged Peak, instead of following the trail back up to the pointr of land below Ragged Peak, turnr right. The trail is definite all the wayr to the Glen Aulin “highway” wherer you turn left, and soon find yourselfr at the Sierra Club property. Thoughr somewhat less varied, the route mayr be reversed by starting at the Sierrar Club property on the Glen Aulinr trail. The climb is the same, butr easier to make along this trail.r

r Special Features: This entire tripr presents a good opportunity to observe the effects, recent and longr past, of the needleminer moth destruction of the lodgepole forests.r Across Moraine Meadow you willr travel through a new forest of youngr trees. Notice the many fallen trees ofr the old forest.r

r When you have ascended ther r r r point below Ragged Peak, beforer descending, walk out far enough tor enjoy the commanding view of ther region.r

r There are two additional lakesr above and east of Young Laker which are interesting to explore. Ther climb and distance however willr add considerably to a one-day hiker (see your topographic map.)r

r A rewarding and strenuous addition to your trip can be made by ascending, from Young Lake, to ther saddle between Ragged Peak andr the ridge just east of the Peak.r Though the route is steep, the view ofr Mt. Conness, Roosevelt Lake (justr west of the base of Conness), andr back down on Young Lake make thisr worth undertaking. Follow one of ther water courses down to the Dog Laker trail. They all cross it.r

r Roosevelt Lake is not feasible tor attempt on a one-day trip. It involvesr a considerable descent and climb.r However, on a two-day trip thisr would be one of the best choices forr additional exploration.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

VIII. MT. HOFFMAN[N]

r (3-moderater all-day hike, 2100 ft., 8 miles).r

r This mountain is in the approximate center of the park, offering ar grand view in all directions. On ar sparkling clear day, Mt. Diablo, nearr Walnut Creek, California, has beenr sighted. It is not uncommon to seer the coast range of mountains fromr this lofty place. Mt. Bullion, nearr Mariposa, Horse Ridge and Buenar Vista crest southward, Mt. Lyell, Mt.r Dana, Mt. Conness, and many otherr of the grander prominences are visible from the summit.r

r Directions: Take the old Tiogar Road to the May Lake trail junctionr which is at the end of this sectionr of the road. Park your car and followr the trail to May Lake. Be sure tor r r r

r r r r     —Anderson, NPSr r Mt. Hoffman from May Lake.r r r [click to enlarge]r

r Continue to May Lake. From ther fire circle of the High Sierra Campr face Mt. Hoffman across the lake.r Your route is mainly visible fromr here. The trail goes around the laker (southerly side), past a pump house,r water storage tank, then turns leftr up the slope over three main ridges,r then you will move along a fine meadow. The trail is fairly distinct, butr r r r should you fail to find it, simplyr turn right at the end of the meadowr and follow up the ridge that leadsr to the left hand large knob of ther mountain, keeping left around ther knob. This will bring you onto ther tableland. Cross the tableland in ther obvious direction toward the summitr and pick the easiest route to ther summit. To return, retrace your route.r

r Special Features: As you roundr the lake, near the pump house, your will cross a large pocket of metamorphic rock which seems out ofr place among the granites.r

r Blue (sooty) grouse (1, p. 94) arer often observed on this mountain, especially during the initial rise overr the three ridges and near the longr meadow. Red shafted flickers (1, p.r 105) occur here as well.r

r Watch for the Yosemite pica (12, p.r 61) on the talus slopes.r

r Mountain coyote (12, p. 81) hasr been observed trotting along ther high tableland on at least one occasion.r

r Apart from the commanding views,r you will be surprised by the ruggedr character of the cirque behindr (north) of the summit. Here is ther r birthplace of Yosemite Falls.r

r The tableland is a splendid placer to find and identify high altituder plants in season.r

r Take the little extra time necessaryr to climb out on one of the larger knobs that rise above May Lake.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

IX. WATERWHEEL FALLS AND GLEN AULIN

r - Glenr Aulin (3-Glen Aulin, moderate all-day,r descend 800 ft., 12 miles. 5-Waterwheel Falls,r very strenuous all-day,r descend 2000 ft., 17 miles).r

r (Note: Mileage estimated from ther parking lot of the Sierra Club property.)r

r The main difficulty with this hiker lies in the fact that the trip involves ar considerable descent in the morningr and a steep climb out in the afternoon. By allowing plenty of time forr return, and picking a day that is notr hot, the trip will be pleasant. Allr other hikes except Vogelsang Passr illustrate the useful rule: climb in ther morning, descend in the afternoon,r whenever possible.r

r The trip down to Glen Aulin is rewarding during any season whenr Tuolumne is open, but the Waterwheel Falls are best visited duringr high water times. Consult with ar r r r

r Waterwheel Fallsr r     —Anderson, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

r The hike to Glen Aulin-Waterwheel Falls is along a well-traveledr and well-marked trail that parallelsr the Tuolumne River during the entirer extent of the route, crossing and re-crossing the river on two occasions.r Do not mistake the Glen Aulin Highr Sierra Camp for Glen Aulin, whichr is a lovely, long, narrow forest-meadow lying approximately one-halfr mile below the High Sierra Camp.r

r During the trip to Glen Aulin, asr you travel down the gorge, you cannot fail to notice Tuolumne Falls andr the White Cascade. Following Glenr Aulin, in this order, you will passr California Falls and Le Conte Fallsr before reaching the Waterwheelr Falls themselves. A metal sign marksr Waterwheel Falls.r

r Directions: Drive to the start of ther Glen Aulin trail behind the Sodar Spring roofless cabin, and up ther slope, parking at the Sierra Club lot.r Follow this well-marked trail downr to either Glen Aulin (the Glen is notr marked by signs) or to Waterwheelr Falls, or both. Return by the samer route.r

r Special Features: Since the tripr begins in the Hudsonian life zoner and descends to the Canadian andr Upper Transition, you will wantr especially to notice the changes inr the flora and fauna (2, 12, 17, 19, 24,r 27, 36).r

r All along the route is ample evidence both of water erosion by ther river and its tributaries, and of pastr glacial activity. The geological storyr will practically tell itself, but somer r r r

r Unicorn and Cathedral Peaks are prominent landmarks in ther Tuolumne Meadows area.r r     —Anderson, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

r Other special features have already been noted above. Seeing andr especially hearing the tremendousr power of the giant drop and tumbler of the Tuolumne River at Waterwheel Falls can serve as adequater recommendation for the hike.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

X. VOGELSANG PASS AND HIGH SIERRA CAMP

r (5-very strenuousr all-day, climb 1800 ft. to High Sierrar Camp, 15 miles. For Vogelsang Pass,r add 2 miles, and an additional climbr of 400 ft.).r

r Both of these places leave little tor be desired in the way of what oner thinks a high mountain camp andr pass should be. Situated overr 10,000 ft. in the sky, the High Sierrar Camp looks temporary enough notr to mar the rugged beauty of its setting, but permanent enough to provide shelter. The pass itself offersr one of the grandest views in the Parkr of the Clark Range, Bernice Lake,r Mt. Florence, and neighboring peaks.r Vogelsang Peak and Fletcher Peakr form a golden setting for that gem,r Vogelsang Lake. Some seasons ofr heavy snow fall may prevent thisr trip in part or whole until early inr August or even later. Consult ther Ranger regarding conditions.r

r Directions: Walk along the riverr road to the very back of the campr ground where the John Muir Trailr begins. (Or begin at the Tuolumner High Sierra Camp, saving 2 milesr hiking distance in the round trip.)r Proceed about one mile to the Rafferty Creek trail junction, where your turn right up the slope. At first ther trail is steep, but flattens soon to ar gradual climb all the way to ther High Sierra Camp. From the camp,r find the trail to Vogelsang Lake andr the Pass (marked by signs). Returnr r r

r On windswept slopes at high elevations,r whitebark pines grow to heights of only 18r to 24 inches.r r     —McCrary, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

r Special Features: As you climbr higher and higher on the Raffertyr Creek Trail, turn to see Mt. Dana,r White Mountain, and other prominences coming into view. Lembertr Dome, that ubiquitous landmark ofr Tuolumne, will be in view for awhile.r Rafferty, Vogelsang, and Fletcherr Peaks are probably the most important mountains you will learn on thisr trip.r

r Lakes abound in this region, and ar number of them are feasible to visitr on even a one-day trip. Vogelsang,r Evelyn, and Booth Lakes are especially near at hand, though you mayr want to hike to Vogelsang and Evelyn and simply look down intor Booth Lake.r

r Golden eagles (1, p. 90) have beenr seen in this area, as well as mountain lions (12, p. 94).r On the wayr from Vogelsang Lake to the Passr r r r r r watch for some of the many marmotsr that live there (12, p. 66).r

r The High Sierra Camp will server meals only if you have made advancer reservations through the Tuolumne Lodge or some other branchr of the Yosemite Park and Curry Company. Coffee or light refreshmentsr do not require such reservations. Inr any event, visit the camp for its ownr sake.r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

r r r

r Largest exposedr granite area inr the park, ther slope of Cloudsr Rest gently glidesr to the floor ofr Tenaya Canyon,r 4500 feet below.r r r [click to enlarge]r r r     —McCrary, NPSr

XI. CLOUDS REST

r (5-very strenuous all-day, climb 1800 ft., 14 miles).r

r Granite domesr surroundingr Tenaya Laker make it one ofr the most photo-r genic spots inr Yosemite.r r r [click to enlarge]r r r —McCrary, NPSr

r r r

r Seen from many vantage pointsr r in the region, one can experience anr unsurpassed 360° panorama of mostr of Yosemite National Park from itsr summit. This fact alone makes ther trip worthy of the effort involved.r From here one can also look downr the face of Half Dome into Yosemiter Valley, and easily sweep the fullr distance of Tenaya Canyon, the largest exposed granite area in the Park.r The slope of Clouds Rest, extendingr into the bottom of Tenaya Canyonr 4500 ft. below your vantage point, isr said to be one of the largest continuous rock slopes in the world.r

r Directions: Drive eight miles to ther r r r outlet of Lake Tenaya. Walk acrossr the outlet. Immediately on yourr right is the start of the Forsyth Trail.r Rarely travelled by animals, ther trail becomes obscure in some placesr during wet seasons, or times of lushr growth. Follow the trail until itr branches, one leading left and downr toward Little Yosemite and Yosemite Valley, the other to the right tor Clouds Rest Summit. Return by ther same route.r

r Special Features: This trail travelsr through a wide variety of habitatsr for trees, plants, and animals. Suchr variety means that you may expectr to find most of the conifers, a greatr number of birds, and most of the wildr flowers of the higher region. From ther wettest meadows, to the parchedr south-facing slope of Clouds Restr Mountain, there range forests andr open slopes in between those extremes.r

r Very soon after starting along ther Forsyth Trail, you will be able to seer Tenaya Canyon, and are near it allr day long. No grander place can ber imagined for viewing the power ofr water erosion and glacial activity.r

r Old Chief Tenaya (10, 1ff.) himself seems to speak again from ther start to end of your trip, from ther peak above the Lake (Tenaya Peak),r from the lake, and from the canyon.r On being captured, Chief Tenayar was brought into camp in the Valley,r where he found that his youngestr son had been killed by the soldiersr in an unfortunate misjudgment. Hisr tribe broken, his way of life lost forever,r he is reported to have said tor Captain Boling, in part:r

r “Kill me, sir Captain! . . . Yes, killr me, as you killed my son; as your would kill my people if they were tor come to you! You would kill all myr race if you had the power. Yes, sir,r r American, you can now tell yourr warriors to kill the old chief; your have made me sorrowful, my lifer dark; you have killed the child of myr heart, why not kill the father? Butr wait a little; when I am dead I willr call to my people to come to you. Ir will call louder than you have hadr me call, that they shall hear me inr their sleep, and come to avenge ther death of their chief and his son. Yes,r sir, American, my spirit will maker trouble for you and your people, asr you have caused trouble to me andr my people. With the wizards, I willr follow the white men and make themr fear me.” He here aroused himselfr to a sublime frenzy, and completedr his rhapsody by saying: “You mayr kill me, sir Captain, but you shallr not live in peace. I will follow inr your footsteps, I will not leave myr home, but be with the spirits amongr the rocks, the waterfalls, in the rivers,r and in the winds; wheresoever your go I will be with you. You will notr see me, but you will fear the spiritr of the old chief, and grow cold. Ther great spirits have spoken! I amr done.” (47, 172-173).r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

XII. MT. DANA

r (5-very strenuousr all-day, climb 3000 ft., 6 miles).r

r Second highest prominence in ther Park (elevation 13,053 ft.), Mt. Danar is named for James Dwight Danar (1813-1895), Professor of Geology atr Yale University (1850-1894).r

r The slopes look so smooth andr gentle they fairly invite an easy walkr up, until you remember that the baser at Tioga Pass lies over 3000 ft. belowr the summit, and that those smoothr surfaces are broken quartzite. Ther sharp easterly shoulders form ther Park boundary, and separate ther waters which flow west to San Francisco from those that flow east tor Los Angeles’ aquaducts. Since ther r r r r r

r The Lying Headr above Tioga Pass.r r     —McCrary, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r

r Directions: Drive the seven milesr to the Tioga Pass Entrance Station,r parking on your left just prior tor reaching the station itself. As your face Mt. Dana south of the road andr look up at it, you see a rugged butter jutting out at what appears to ber about half-way up. This is calledr the Lying Head. A trail startsr about 100 yards from the stone gatepost and follows along the left topr side of the physical divide, contouring the first glacial moraine. Proceedr along this trail until you come upr under and right of the Head,r when the trail moves right up ther r slope. The trail is fairly well-definedr from here up to the tableland aboutr half-way up, but should you lose it,r simply keep to the right of the Headr and follow the natural water courser up to the tableland. As you come upr over the initial steep portion onto ther broad, gently sloping tableland, lookr ahead on your left (slightly) to a goodr sized notch on the shoulder of ther mountain. Head for the notch. It provides a good resting spot out of ther wind that usually blows here - and itr may be cold. After resting, there willr be a fairly extended scramble overr large blocks as you follow the ridger up toward the summit.r

r By keeping left as you ascend,r you will discover a “use” trail (notr built as a trail) that leads directly tor the summit itself. To return, retracer your steps, or vary the trail to suitr your whims, remembering to headr for the spot where you first came upr on to the tableland.r

r Take plenty of time going up. Afterr you reach 11,500, or so, the goingr begins to get tough. The last 500800 ft. will require frequent “puffingr stops.” Even youngsters puff, butr they recover more quickly thanr adults. Take short frequent stops.r r r r You will need between 4 to 5 hoursr for the ascent unless you have beenr doing extensive hiking in the area.r The descent will require less thanr half the time.r

r Special Features: Regarding ther panorama spread out in all directions, the least that can be said is tor be sure to carry your topographicr map of the region, there is so muchr to be seen on a clear day! Lookingr eastward, you will see Mono Lake,r the old town of Bodie can be mader out, the volcanic cones of Monor County, and beyond to the south,r Boundary Peak in Nevada and ther White Mountains in California.r Northward you may be able to maker out the Sweetwater Range.r

r Looking south, you can see Kuna,r Koip, Ritter, Banner, Lyell, McClure,r and Florence mountains. You canr also see clearly the glaciers on Lyellr and McClure. Turning more westerlyr you will be looking down into ther multiple cirques of Kuna Crest, Mammoth Peak being the extreme northwestern end of Kuna Crest. Ofr course, in addition, practically ther whole Tuolumne region is spread before you, with the familiar Cathedralr Range appearing, probably for ther first time, as a unity. There is more,r of course, but that will be left forr your discovery.r

r By descending the ridge a shortr way on the side opposite the one your ascended, you will find several vantage points for viewing the Danar Glacier, Glacier Canyon, and ther Dana Plateau beyond, lying abover Lee Vining Canyon.r

r Do not fail to search for the bluer Polemonium, or sky pilot, whichr grows most commonly betweenr 12-13,000 ft. on mountain tops.r

r If it is cloudy, you may be treatedr to some special light displays mader by the sun in the clouds that occurr only at high elevations.r

r Speak to Oscar, the marmot, andr his tribe that live on top of Dana. Ifr the weather is cool, you will findr only his signs.r

r Dana provides one of the finestr vantage points for studying the evidence for the formation of the region.r The glacial map in Matthes’ volumer (20, plate 39, p. 75) is a convenientr study resource. Or one may spendr the entire stay on the summit pleasantly engaged in counting and naming the many lakes visible. Duringr one such visit, a party counted 25r different lakes, not including smallerr ponds.r

r On your own: By the time your have achieved the summit of Mt.r Dana and completed this series ofr hikes, it may be unnecessary to recommend any additional guidance forr enriching your mountain experiencer in Tuolumne. But at the risk of appearingr overzealous, let there ber added one further trip, to be designed especially for you and byr you. Select some mountain of yourr choice, register with the Districtr Ranger, and spend the night on itsr summit. I recommend Mt. Connessr or Mammoth Peak. Only one warning need be given: you will neverr be the same person thereafter!r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

LIST OF HIKES, WALKS, AND CARAVANS IN TUOLUMNE MEADOWS

r r Distances are Round Tripr r

r r I. HALF-DAY HIKESr r

r Afternoon Nature and History Hiker to Bennettville and environs (3 mi.)r

r Afternoon Nature Walk, Tuolumner Meadows and Soda Spring (also,r morning).r

r Children’s Nature Walk (various)r (8-10 years).r

r Afternoon Geology Hike.r

r Afternoon Nature Caravan and Walkr to Dana Meadows.r

r Lembert Dome.r

r r

r Sunday Lakes, Nature Hike.r

r Morning Geology Walk, Tuolumner Meadows.r

r Afternoon Nature Walk, Dana Forkr and foot of Mono Pass Trail.r

r Morning Bird Walk (various).r

r Bird and Flower Walks (various)r

r Juniper Ridge.r

r Timberline Nature Walk (Dana Meadows).r

r Sunset Nature Walk.r

r r II. ALL-DAY HIKESr r

r Cathedral Lake (6 mi., climb 1000 ft.)r

r Children’s (8-10 yrs.)r
r Tuolumne’s Miniature Devil’s Postpile.r

r Cloud’s Rest (14 mi., climb 1800 Ft.)r

r Cockscomb Cirque (8 mi., climb 1500r ft.)r

r Cockscomb Tableland (8 mi., climbr 2200 ft.)r

r Columbia Finger 10 mi., climbr 1500 ft.)r

r Conness Glacier (8 mi., climb 1500 ft.)r

r Conness Mountain (9 mi., climb 2400r ft.)r

r Dana Glacier (8 mi., climb 1500 ft.)r

r Dana Mountain (6 mi., climb 3000 ft.)r

r Dana Plateau (8 mi., climb 2000 ft.)r

r Echo Peak Ridge (8 mi., climb 2600 ft.)r

r Fairview Dome (3 mi., climb 1400 ft.)r

r Falls Ridge (9 mi.)r

r Gaylor Lakes and Old Historic Minesr (7 mi.)r

r Geology and Natural History Caravan (Tioga Pass and Down Sierrar Escarpment)r

r Gibbs Mountain (6 mi., climb 3000r ft.)r

r Gibbs Mountain Shoulder and Minesr (8 mi., climb 2000 ft.)r

r Granite Divide (Between Mts. Danar and Gibbs) (10 mi., climb 2800 ft.)r

r Hoffman Mountain (12 mi., climb 2000r ft.)r

r Johnson Peak (9 mi., climb 2400 ft.)r

r Johnson Ridge (9 mi., climb 2400 ft.)r

r Kuna Crest (10 mi., climb 3000 ft.)r

r Kuna Glacier (17 mi., climb 2300 ft.)r

r Kuna Lakes (7 mi., climb 1500 ft.)r

r Kuna Peak, North Spur (12 mi., climbr 2800 ft.)r

r Lake of the Domes (6 mi., climb 1000r ft.)r

r Lee Vining Peak (8 mi., climb 2700 ft.)r

r Mammoth Peak (9 mi., climb 2700 ft.)r

r Mono Pass and Golden Crown Miner (10 mi., climb 1200 ft.)r

r Mono and Parker Passes (10 mi.,r climb 1500 ft.)r

r North Cirque Cathedral Peak (6 mi.,r climb 1200 ft.)r

r North Peak of Conness (10 mi., climbr 2200 ft.)r

r Parker Peak (17 mi., climb 3200 ft.)r

r Polly Dome (6 mi., climb 1100 ft.)r

r Polly Lakes (6 mi.)r

r Ragged Peak (10 mi., climb 800 ft.)r

r Slide Falls, Py-we-ack, Tenaya Canyon (7 mi., climb 1000 ft.)r

r Tuolumne’s Miniature Devil’s Postpile (5 mi.)r

r Tuolumne Peak (8 mi., climb 2000 ft.)r

r Unicorn Saddle (7 mi., climb 2100 ft.)r

r Warren Mountain (12 mi., climb 2837r ft.)r

r Waterwheel Falls (1 1/2 day trip)r

r Watkins Mountain (8 mi.)r

r White Mountain (8 mi., climb 2300 ft.)r

r r III. 2-DAY HIKESr r

r Young Lake, Conness Basin, Raggedr Peak. Backpack trip suitable forr family hike.r

r Budd Lake, Echo Ridge, Cockscombr Cirque. Backpack trip suitable forr family hike.r

r Mt. Lyell Glacier.r r     —Anderson, NPSr r r r r r [click to enlarge]r r

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Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

BIBLIOGRAPHY OF GENERAL REFERENCES

r (Numbers correspond to references in text)r

r 1. Stebbins, Cyril A. and Robert C., “Birds of Yosemite”, Special Issue,r Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by the Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 33, No. 8, August 1954.r

r 2. Brockman, C. Frank, “Broad-leaved Trees”, Special Issue, Yosemiter Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc.,r Vol. 26, No. 1, January 1947.r

r 3. Cole, James E., “Cone-bearing Trees of Yosemite National Park”, Specialr Issue, Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural Historyr Association, Inc., Vol. 18, No. 5, May 1939.r

r r 4. Hartesveldt, Richard J., “A Brief Story of the Devils Postpile Nationalr Monument”, Special Issue, Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by Yosemiter Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 31, No. 10.r r

r 5. Evans, Willis A., Wallis, Orthello L., and Gallison, Glenn D., “Fishesr of Yosemite”, Special Issue, Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 23, No. 1, 1944.r

r 6. Beatty, M. E., “Geology of Yosemite Valley”, Special Issue, Yosemiter Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc.,r Vol. 22, No. 4, 1943.r

r r 7. Hubbard, Douglass H., “Guide to the Happy Isles Nature Center,”r Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 36, No. 12, December 1957.r

r r 8. Brubaker, Lloyd W., Degnan, Laurence V., and Jackson, Richard R.,r “Guide to the Pioneer Cemetery”, Yosemite Nature Notes.r Published byr Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 38, No. 5, May (1960).r

r 9. McFarland, James W., “A Guide to the Yosemite Sequoias”, Specialr Issue, Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by the Yosemite Natural Historyr Association, Inc., Vol. 28, No. 6, June 1949.r

r 10. Godfrey, Elizabeth H., “Yosemite Indians”, Special Issue, Yosemite Naturer Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol.r 20, No. 7, 1941.r

r r 11. Carpenter, Robert W., “Guide to the Inspiration Point Nature Trail”,r Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by the Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 37, No. 5, May 1958.r

r 12. Parker, Harry C., “Mammals of Yosemite National Park”, Special Issue,r Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 31, No. 6, 1952.r

r r 13. Wason, Richard, “Guide to the Mariposa Grove Nature Trail”, Yosemiter Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc.,r Vol. 37, No. 3, March 1958.r

r 14. Brockman, C. Frank, “Guide to the Mother Lode Country”, Yosemiter Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc.,r Vol. 27, No. 1, 1948.r

r r 15. Hartesveldt, Richard J., ”Place Names of Yosemite Valley”, Yosemiter Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc.,r Vol. 34, No. 1, January 1955.r

r 16. Walker, M. V., “Reptiles and Amphibians of Yosemite National Park”,r Special Issue, Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Naturalr History Association, Inc., Vol. 25, No. 1, January 1946.r

r 17. Ditton, Richard P. and McHenry. Donald E., “Self-Guiding Auto Tour ofr Yosemite National Park”, Special Issue, Yosemite Nature Notes. Publishedr by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 35, No. 6, June 1956.r

r 18. Brockman, C. Frank, “Famous Waterfalls of the World”, Special Issue,r Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Vol. 24, No. 1.r

r 19. Hubbard, Douglass H., “Wildflowers of the Sierra”, Special Issue,r Yosemite Nature Notes. Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Vol. 37, No. 6, 1958.r

r 20. Matthes, Francois E., Geologic History of the Yosemite Valley, Geologicalr Survey Professional Paper No. 160, United States Department of ther Interior, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1930.r

r 21. Maps. Devils Postpile National Monument. U.S.G.S.r

r 22. Maps. Yosemite National Park. U.S.G.S.r

r 23. Maps. Yosemite Valley. U.S.G.S.r

r 24. Hoffman, Ralph, Birds of the Pacific States, Houghton Mifflin Company,r Boston, 1927.r

r 25. Hartesveldt, Richard and Jane, Campsite Finder, Naturegraph Publishingr Co., San Martin, California, (1960).r

r 26. Voge, Hervey, Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra, A., The Sierra Club,r San Francisco, 1956.r

r 27. Armstrong, Margaret, Field Book of Western Wild Flowers, G. P. Putnam’sr Sons, New York and London, 1915.r

r 28. Murie, Olaus, A Field Guide to Animal Tracks, Houghton Mifflin Company,r Boston, 1958.r

r 29. Rodin, Robert, “Ferns of the Sierra”, Special Issue, Yosemite Nature Notes.r Published by Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc. Vol. 39, No. 4,r April 1960.r

r 30. Burt, W. H. and Grossenheider, R. P., A Field Guide to the Mammals,r Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston, 1952.r

r 31. Pough, Frederick H., A Field Guide to Rocks and Minerals, Houghton Mifflinr Company, Boston, 1955.r

r 32. Peterson, Roger Tory, A Field Guide to Western Birds, Houghton Mifflinr Company, Boston, 1941.r

r 33. Hubbard, Douglass H., Ghost Mines of Yosemite, printed by the Awanir Press, P. O. Box 1971, Fresno, California, 1958.r

r 34. Brower, David R., Going Light with Backpack or Burro, The Sierra Club,r San Francisco, 1958.r

r 35. Chalfant, W. A., Gold, Guns, and Ghost Towns. Stanford University Press,r 1947.r

r 36. Pearl, Richard M., How to Know the Minerals and Rocks. A Signet Keyr Book, 1955.r

r 37. Matthes, Francois and Fryxell, Fritiof, Incomparable Valley, University ofr California Press, Berkeley, Los Angeles, 1956.r

r 38. Barrett, S. A. and Gifford, E. W., Indian Life of the Yosemite Region, Miwokr Material Culture, Yosemite Natural History Association, Inc., Yosemiter National Park, California, 1957. (Bulletin of Milwaukee Public Museum,r Vol. 2, No. 4, March 1933.)r

r 39. Russell, Carl P., 100 Years In Yosemite, Yosemite Natural History Association, Yosemite National Park, 1957.r

r 40. Gudde, Erwin G., 1000 California Place Names. University of Californiar Press, 1960.r

r 41. Hood, Mary V., Outdoor Hazards. The MacMillan Company, New York,r 1955.r

r 42. Starr, Walter A., Jr., Starr’s Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierrar Region, Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1956.r

r 43. Hubbard, Fran, A Day with Tupi, The Awani Press, P. O. Box 1971,r Fresno, California, 1955.r

r 44. Teal, Edwin Way, Wilderness World of John Muir, The, Houghton, Mifflinr Company, Boston, 1954.r

r 45. The Yosemite Story, Western Resort Publications, Ferris H. Scott, Publisher, 1320 North Broadway, Santa Ana, California.r

r 46. Taylor, Katherine Ames,r r Yosemite Trails and Tales,r Stanford Universityr Press, Stanford, California, 1948.r

r 47. Bunnell, L. H., The Discovery of Yosemite. F. H. Revell, Chicago, 1880.r

r r Next: Recommended Works •r Contentsr • Previous: List of Hikesr r

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r http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/tuolumne_meadows_trails/bibliography.htmlr

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r Yosemite > Library >r Tuolumne Meadows Trails >r Recommended Works on Hiking in the High Sierra >r

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r r Next: Animals and Plants •r Contentsr • Previous: Bibliographyr r

Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

RECOMMENDED WORKS ON HIKING IN THE HIGH SIERRA

r Adams, Virginia and Ansel, Illustrated Guide to Yosemite Valley, Stanford University Press, Stanford, California, 1954.r

r Brower, David R., Going Light with Backpack or Burro, The Sierra Club, Sanr Francisco, 1958.r

r Clark Guides:r
r Clark, Lewis W., Pocket Guide to the High Sierra Camp Areas, Yosemite National Park.r
r Clark, Lewis W., Pocket Guide to the North Country, Yosemite National Park.r
r Clark, Lewis W., Pocket Guide to the South Boundary Country, Yosemite National Park.r
r Yosemite Natural History Assoc., Yosemite National Park, Californiar

r Voge, Hervey, A Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra, The Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1956.r

r Hood, Mary V., Outdoor Hazards, The Macmillan Company, New York, 1955.r

r Starr, Jr., Walter A., Starr’s Guide to the John Muir Trail and the High Sierra Region,r The Sierra Club, San Francisco, 1956.r

r r Taylor, Katherine Ames, Yosemite Trails and Tales,r Stanford University Press,r Stanford, California, 1948.r

r r Next: Animals and Plants •r Contentsr • Previous: Bibliographyr r

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r http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/tuolumne_meadows_trails/recommended_works.htmlr

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r Yosemite > Library >r Tuolumne Meadows Trails >r Animals and Plants >r

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r r Next: Check-List of Birds •r Contentsr • Previous: Recommended Worksr r

Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

ANIMALS AND PLANTS

r Some Common Mammals of ther Tuolumne Regionr

r Belding Ground Squirrel - 12, p. 67r
Yellowbelly Marmot - 12, p. 66r
Chickaree - 12, p. 65r
Golden-mantled Squirrel - 12, p. 68r
Sierra Pocket Gopher - 12, p. 71r
Chipmunks - 12, p. 69r
Marten - 12, p. 90r
Pika - 12, p. 61r
Black Bear - 12, p. 82r
Badger - 12, p. 92r
California Mule Deer - 12, p. 96r
Yosemite Mountain Voler (Meadow Mouse) - 12, p. 78r

r Some Uncommon Mammals Your May Seer

r Northern Water Shrew - 12, p. 57r
Whitetail Jackrabbit - 12, p. 62r
Northern Flying Squirrel - 12, p. 70r
Western Jumping Mouse - 12, p. 79r
Porcupine - 12, p. 80r
Coyote - 12, p. 81r
Fisher - 12, p. 90r
Wolverine - 12, p. 91r
Mountain Lion - 12, p. 94r

r Some Common Birds of ther Tuolumne Regionr

r Oregon junco - 1, p. 137r
Robin - 1, p. 121r
Western Wood Pewee - 1, p. 111r
Sparrow Hawk - 1, p. 92r
Red-tailed Hawk - 1, p. 90r
Cassin’s Finch - 1, p. 132r
Blue (sooty) Grouse - 1, p. 94r
Killdeer - 1, p. 96r
Spotted Sandpiper - 1, p. 96r
California Gull - 1, p. 98r
Red-shafted Flicker - 1, p. 105r
Williamson’s Sapsucker - 1, p. 107r
Hammond’s Flycatcher - 1, p. 110r
Violet-green Swallow - 1, p. 112r
Steller’s Jay - 1, p. 113r
Clark’s Nutcracker - 1, p. 115r
Mountain Chickadee - 1, p. 115r
Brewer’s Blackbird - 1, p. 130r
Pine Siskin - 1, p. 133r
Chipping Sparrow - 1, p. 137r
White-crowned Sparrow - 1, p. 137r

r Some Uncommon Birds You May Seer

r Horned Lark - 1, p. 112r
Black-backed Three-toed Woodpecker - 1, p. 109r
White-throated Swift - 1, p. 103r
Horned Owl - 1, p. 100r
Golden Eagle - 1, p. 90r
White-breasted Nuthatch - 1, p. 116r
Red-breasted Nuthatch - 1, p. 117r
Dipper (Water Ouzel) - 1, p. 115r
Hermit Thrush - 1, p. 121r
Townsend’s Solitaire - 1, p. 122r
Ruby-crowned Kinglet - 1, p. 123r
Western Tanager - 1, p. 131r
Pine Grosbeak - 1, p. 133r
Green-tailed Towhee - 1, p. 134r
Rufous-sided Towhee - 1, p. 134r

r Some Common Wildflowers of ther Tuolumne Regionr

r False Helebore - 27, p. 10r
Wild Onion - 27, p. 14r
Mariposa Lily - 27, p. 62r
Rocky Mountain Iris - 19, p. 14; 27, p.r 66r
American Bistort (Knotweed) - 27, p.r 96r
Buckwheatr
Pussy Paws - 27, p. 124r
Columbine - 19, p. 21; 27, p. 134r
Larkspurr
Shield Leaf - 27, p. 180r
Plains Erysimum (Western Wallflower 19, p. 14; 27, p. 176r
Stonecrop - 27, p. 192r
Spiraear
Cinquefoilr r r r
Potentilla muirii (Muir Mousetails)r
Lupine - 19, p. 6r
Hook (Dog) Violet - 27, p. 300r
Fireweed - 19, p. 22; 27, p. 314r
Gayophytumr
Wild Carrotr
Red Mountainheath (Red Heather)r 27, p. 352r
Cassiope - 19, p. 20; 27, p. 354r
Shooting Stars - 27, p. 364r
Gentian - 19, p. 22r
Douglas Phlox - 19, p. 21; 27, p. 390r
Monardella (Pennyroyal) - 27, p. 436r
Newberry Penstemon (Pride of ther Mountains) - 19, p. 16; 27, p. 480r
Whorled Penstemon - 27, p. 482r
Mimulus - 19, p. 4; 27, p. 494r
Indian Paint Brush - 19, p. 8; 27, p.r 472r
Elephant Head (Pedicularis) - 19, p.r 20; 27 p. 504r
Aster (Fleabane) - 19, p. 21r
Shiny Wyethia (Mule-ears)r
Yarrowr
Senecior
Mountain Laurel Kalmia - 19, p. 20;r 27, p. 350r

r Some Uncommon Flowers Your May Seer

r Pine Drops - 27, p. 360r
Snow Plant - 19, p. 16; 27, p. 358r
Steer’s Head Bleedingheart - 19, p.r 22; 27, p. 120r
Polemonium (Sky Pilot) - 27, p. 384r
Daisyr
Sunflowerr
Yellow Columbiner
Pussytoesr

r Trees of Tuolumner

r Quaking Aspen - 2, p. 9r
Skyland (Alpine) Willowr
Lodgepole Pine - 3, p. 21r
Jeffrey Pine - 3, p. 10r
Western White Pine - 3, p. 16r
Whitebark Pine - 3, p. 19r
California Red Fir - 3, p. 29r
Mountain Hemlock - 3, p. 34r
Sierra Juniper - 3, p. 44r

r Some Common Reptiles of Tuolumner

r Some Uncommon Reptilesr of Tuolumner

r r Names in these lists are according to the following National Park Service standardr references:r r

r MAMMALS: Burt, W. H., Field Guide to Mammals. Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston,r 1952.r

r BIRDS: A.O.U., Check list of North American Birds. (5th Edition) Amer. Ornithologists’ Union, Ithaca, N.Y., 1957.r

r FLOWERS: Kelsey, Harlan P. and William A. Dayton. Standardized Plantr Names. Harrisburg, Pa., 1942.r

r TREES: Little, E., Check list of Native and Naturalized Trees of the United States,r Including Alaska. U.S.G.P.O., Washington, D.C., 1953.r

r REPTILES: Amer. Soc. of Ichthyologists and Herpetologists, “Common Namesr for North American Amphibians and Reptiles”. Copeia, 1956 (3):172-185.r

r r Next: Check-List of Birds •r Contentsr • Previous: Recommended Worksr r

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r http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/tuolumne_meadows_trails/animals_and_plants.htmlr

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r Yosemite > Library >r Tuolumne Meadows Trails >r Check-List of Birds >r

r

r r Contentsr • Previous: Animals and Plantsr r

Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

A CHECK LIST OF BIRDS OF THE TUOLUMNE REGION BY LOCATION

r Mrs. Elsie Roemer ((1960))*r

r Tuolumne Meadows Arear

r Lake Tenaya and Slopes of Tenaya Peak Arear

r Tioga Pass, Dana Meadows and East Side Arear

r Mono Lake Arear

r *Names in this list conform to the 5th Edition of the A.O.U. Check List ofr North American Birds (1957)r

r Mono Lake from the summit of Mt. Dana.r r     —Anderson, NPSr r r [click to enlarge]r r r r r

r NOTESr

r  r

r MANY OTHER INTERESTING FEATURES OF YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARKr ARE EXPLAINED THROUGH SELF-GUIDING BOOKLETS. YOU AREr INVITED TO ENJOY THESE ALSO:r

r

r GUIDE TO MARIPOSA GROVE NATURE TRAIL — A guide to a naturer trail through this famed grove of Sequoias.r

r r

r AUTO TOUR OF YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARKr — Many vistas andr features are explained in this booklet, which includes all roads in ther Park.r

r r

r TRAIL GUIDE TO INSPIRATION POINT NATURE TRAIL — Ther Mariposa Battalion first saw Yosemite Valley from near this vantager point. The booklet tells you of this and other historic events and alsor identifies many plants along the trail.r

r r

r GUIDE TO HAPPY ISLES NATURE CENTER — A pictorial guide to thisr interesting interpretive development.r

r r

r A GUIDE TO THE YOSEMITE SEQUOIASr — All of the more interestingr Sequoias are described in this self-guiding auto tour to the Mariposar Grove.r

r r

r GUIDE TO THE PIONEER CEMETERY — Many of Yosemite’s pioneersr are buried here. Their story is briefly told in this guide.r

r

r THE ABOVE SELF-GUIDING BOOKLETS ARE AVAILABLE AT THEr MUSEUMS AND AT THE STARTING-POINTS OF THE TRAILS.r

r r r r r [click to enlarge]r

r r Contentsr • Previous: Animals and Plantsr r

r

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r http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/tuolumne_meadows_trails/birds.htmlr

r

r Yosemite > Library >r Tuolumne Meadows Trails >r

r

r r Next: Title Pager r

Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trails (1960) by Allan Shields

r r r Title page r Contents r Acknowledgements r Foreword r An Invitation to Hike r Approaches to Hiking r Brief History of Guided Hikes in Tuolumne Meadows r Recommended Equipment r Cautions r How You Can Help r To Begin r Hike Classificationr r r

r r r The Hiking Programr r I. Lembert Dome r II. Dog Lake r III. Elizabeth Lake r IV. Cathedral Lake and Upper Cathedral Lake r V. Gaylor Lakes and Vicinity r VI. Mono Pass and Historic Golden Crown Mines r VII. Young Lakes r VIII. Mt. Hoffmann r IX. Waterwheel Falls and Glen Aulin r X. Vogelsang Pass and High Sierra Camp r XI. Clouds Rest r XII. Mt. Dana r r r List of Hikes, Walks, and Caravans in Tuolumne Meadows r Bibliography of General References r Recommended Works on Hiking in the High Sierra r Animals and Plants r A Check-List of Birds-1959 r r r

r r r r r [click to enlarge]r r Cover, with view of Lembert Domer r

About the Author

r r r r r [click to enlarge]r r r Bernice and Allan Shields, circa 1993r r r

r Allan Edwin Shields was born July 3, 1919 in Columbus, Ohio.r He married Bernice Clark in 1941 and had 4 children.r Shields received an AB from University of California, Berkeley in 1941,r a MA from University of Southern California in 1947,r and a Ph.D. in 1951.r In between served in the Army during World War II, 1942-45 becoming a Sergeant.r Dr. Shields was at San Diego State University (SDSU)r during 1949-1968 and 1970-1977, where he became Professor of Philosophy.r He was Professor and Dean at University of Northern Iowa, Cedar Fallsr during 1968-70.r Shields was a seasonal National Park Service Ranger-Naturalistr in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite National Park during 1955-60,r when he wrote this booklet.r

r r

r After retirement from SDSU in 1978 he moved to his ranch near Yosemite, Jerseydale Ranch.r He took up writing and publishing, with his small press business,r Jerseydale Ranch Press.r Dr. Shields has written or edited several articles and books,r generally philosophy articles as a professor,r and popular writings on Yosemite and Mariposa County in retirement.r These include:r

r
• A Bibliography of Bibliographies in Aesthetics (1974)
r
• A Bibliography of the Works of F. C. S. Schiller: With an Introduction To Pragmatic Humanism (co-author, 1974)
r
• A Yosemite Adventure in 1863: And Other Tales of Early Days in Mariposa County (editor, 1992)
r
• Mariposa Now and Then (1993)
r
• The Song of Sonora (1993)
r
• Tragedy of Tenaya: A Yosemite Indian Story (fiction, 1993)
r
• A Yosemite Naturalist’s Odyssey: Journals and Drawings by William L. Neely (editor, 1994)
r
• What Animals Taught Me (1994)
r
• Climb Every Mountain: A Portrait of Carl Sharsmith (editor, 1996)
r
• California Storms, Floods, and Other Natural Benefits, 1849-1997: A Documentary (1997)
r
• Lemuel Albert Holmes, editor, Mariposa Gazette, 1855-1862 (1997)
r

r Dr. Allan Shields lives in near Midpines, California.r His interests, besides the outdoors and nature, include gardening, wine making, playing the violin, and musical criticism.r

Bibliographical Information

r Allan E. Shields (1919-)r Guide to Tuolumne Meadows Trailsr (Yosemite: Yosemite Natural History Association: 1960).r Special issue of Yosemite Nature Notes, 39:8.r 41 pages. Color illustrations. 24 cm.r Foreword by Dr. Carl W. Sharsmith.r Saddle stitched with illustrated paper covers.r

r Digitized by Dan Anderson, January 2007,r from a personal copy.r These files may be used for any non-commercial purpose,r provided this notice is left intact.r
r     —Dan Anderson, www.yosemite.ca.usr

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r http://www.yosemite.ca.us/library/tuolumne_meadows_trails/r