by Phil » Tue Jun 01, 2021 5:00 am
No problem. It's nice to see people getting back out and wanting planning help instead of just chatting amongst ourselves or arguing policy changes, so thanks.
There are lots of restrictions associated with permitting in that area of the park that are basically designed as a system of checks and balances for limiting traffic on the JMT and Half Dome and dissuading people from using "backdoors" that are too easily gotten through. I can't say that I'm an expert or up-to-date because it's just no longer a section of the trail system that I use for entry, rather only exiting if I have to. But, based on my current understanding, just that LYV permit stops you cold right there. Pass beyond and spend the night on the JMT (Sunrise), get caught, get cited. With your second permit, again, as it's always stood, you must stop short of LYV and spend that first night past the restricted zone, which mandates the area of Buena Vista/Illilouette. Everything beyond there and up to LYV itself is the restricted zone, inclusive of the entire stretch of the Panorama Trail. This also says nothing of water availability beyond the obvious. To camp at Sunrise Creek you must pass-thru LYV with a JMT permit. Keep in mind, this precludes you staying at LYV at all, and that first night must be spent at BV/Illilouette before moving forward to at least Sunrise Creek. That's not a bad thing at all. In fact, that would be something I would personally prefer. It's just nicer. So, subject to you verifying this information, this is my current understanding of what I'm assuming is still the case in how it's always worked since these restrictions were implemented...trust but verify, and make the call as to permitting as suits your needs.
Unfortunately, the entire area of the park is extremely crowded and impacted heavily (why there are such restrictions to begin with). In fact, aside from your short time and distance out to Illilouette, it isn't technically "backcountry" at all. That said, and with regards to LYV itself, it's pretty much a campground that you just happen to have to hike in to get to...a backpacker's camp. You get a mixed bag of people and experiences, some better suited and more pleasant than others. Hit and miss. It is generally crowded, you'll share a site if necessary, no privacy (apartments without walls, with neighbors that you may or may not like), no fire ring if that's a thing you want, heavy oversight and enforcement of "da rules" out of necessity, no view to speak of as it's in a dell...definitely not what I would call a "wilderness experience" at all. Truthfully, it's a place that we only consider as a necessary evil if it works strategically for an exit plan from somewhere else.
Aside from better views, some semblance of privacy in having your own site, and closer proximity to HD, while Sunrise is by no means unimpacted, it's just a nicer place to be and worth that extra couple miles of climb that you would have to make to get to HD anyhow. It's really all about what you want out of it. The CR x JMT junction or just short of there past the HD spur is where you'll begin looking for sites. Drop your packs, pull your cans, poke around and you'll find something nice.
A couple other things re: bear canisters and proper storage: with just you and your wife, even though you both have canisters, for a 3-4 day trip, unless you like to go heavy or she has a lot of scented cosmetics or lotions, etc, you guys should easily be able to get comfortably by with just one canister and lighten your loads. I'm not a gram counter, but I am about shaving obvious weight wherever possible, and it is something you'll appreciate when you hike back out the Panorama to GP after having done HD just prior. It'll be hot, it's steep, and it'll hurt, so up to you entirely, obviously, but take it where you can. As far as food protocols go: don't underestimate the resourcefulness and aggressive tenacity of the bears in that area. We all have stories that would be funny and amazing if it happened to someone else and didn't cost us lunch or dinner, even when we thought we were doing everything right. Arm's distance and right in front of you is really the way to go. Just sayin'.