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[Yosemite]

First Timers looking to be awestruck while avoiding crowds

Hiking, backpacking, running, biking, climbing, rafting, and other human-powered activities in Yosemite National Park

Moderators: Wickett, dan

Postby AlmostThere » Sat Aug 08, 2009 3:34 pm

Wilderness permits require trailhead of entry, trailhead of exit, and first night's campsite/destination. They are not at all flexible on where and when you enter the wilderness. Once you are beyond the first night, you can go anywhere you want on whatever schedule you want, exiting on the day at the trailhead listed.

You may find it too long to get all the way to the exit trailhead in 2-3 days, if you do the route I describe - there is some leeway here, as rangers will be understanding of people who overestimate their abilities - they're used to that. If you find you can't go up the Panorama trail and need to exit (downhill, to the valley) via the Happy Isles trailhead instead, they don't penalize you. The itinerary I suggested is one that I personally would take four or five days on, just because I love Yosemite and find myself stopping to soak up the scenery. But I am aware that there are people who can do 12-15 mile days without hesitation.

You say you're "in top shape" but you can't know what that elevation will do to slow you down. I am going into the mountains on average 2-3 times a month, as I live here in the shadow of the Sierras, and last week found myself huffing and puffing at 9,000 feet elevation - you don't always get a free pass for elevation. People join our hiking group all the time expecting an easy walk in the woods and then find out that driving to 5,000 feet and hiking to 7,900 feet all in one day overwhelms them. Oxygen levels are different up there. So, you may show up in the park, start hiking, and climb hills like they aren't there - or you may show up in the park, start climbing, and find yourself out of breath and struggling. Drinking plenty of water will help, as will frequent snacks/electrolytes, but in the end, everyone responds differently to elevation. Sometimes every single time. Most times, I am able to go without an issue. Sometimes I have problems. There's no way to predict it and no way to prevent it. Acclimation (staying at moderate elevation for a day or two so your body can adjust) can help. Going to the gym every single day of the week does nothing to prepare you for high elevation; it helps, but I've seen religious workout fanatics falter on the trail.

All that to preface this - the four mile trail uphill is typically regarded as a buttkicker. Adding 8 miles of Panorama Trail, then another six miles of trail to the summit of Half Dome, may or may not be possible for you. It would be easier for you to do Happy Isles to Half Dome. You might crash two miles into the four mile trail or make it to Nevada Falls and be thrashed, you might make it all the way up and then back out and wonder what I lectured you for. I don't know. You won't either, until you're there. But I can tell you that thousands of people underestimate the difficulty every year, and it's those people for whom the SAR filter water at the top of Nevada Falls day after day.
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Postby RCRanger03 » Sat Aug 08, 2009 7:04 pm

Thanks so much for being so helpful!

Quick question what in the way of waterfalls do you get to see on your tenaya to cloud rest route? My trip partner has an expressed interest in seeing some waterfall, and since i'm planning Yosemite and he has Yellowstone i would feel bad if i put in what i wanted and none of what he did, because i know he has been really making exceptions for me in the Yellowstone planning
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Postby RCRanger03 » Fri Jun 04, 2010 2:10 am

Bump for the trip being in about a month and a half

Some things have changed so I thought i would set the stage again

Me and my friend are both 21 avid backpackers going on a 30 day roadtrip of the Western US. As of now we roll into the Yosemite area from the south via HWY-41 in the evening around August 1st (although we could arrange to arrive earlier if necessary), then we have 3 full days to backpack in the Park, and then the morning of Day 4 to take on last deep breath and then heading out Tioga Road to HWY 120 on our way to Bodie, and then Lake Tahoe.

SO... One of the main goals however cliche it is... is to hit Half Dome (we've heard some rumors of a sunrise approach, which I think would be amazing), my partner is really into waterfalls, and I'm a solitude is king kind of guy (which i know is going to be unfeasible for Yosemite in August, but the less crowded the better).

When I first started planning the trip i was all set to get permits the moment they became availible but my partner really wanted to maintain the spontaneity of the trip and not have any set dates outside of the end date so i obliged and we're going to try our hand at the 40% first come first serve permits. (

Do any of you fine people have any recommendations on a 3day trip that would meet our goals? Any and everything would be greatly appreciated

Thanks again :)
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Postby AlmostThere » Fri Jun 04, 2010 7:28 am

You will never have solitude on Half Dome. We did a sunrise approach - there were lights on the cables and 30 people on top bundled up in sleeping bags, on a weekday, in August. I've heard rumor of people who get there and find a handful of people.

Do you have a place to spend the night near the park? You will need to get to the wilderness office (if a Happy Isles start, the one in the valley; if a Tioga Pass start, the one in Tuolumne Meadows - this matters) before sunrise, 3-4 am is what I would shoot for if you intend to use one of the popular trailheads, and stand in line until the office opens. Wilderness permits of the first come/first serve variety will go fast. Like, in five minutes after the office door opens, leaving a dozen people to wait another day, somehow, to try again the next morning unless they are willing to grab whatever trailhead has space and go to a different destination.

The trip I originally mentioned, from tioga to Happy Isles via the JMT or one of the other branches of trail (the JMT will get you closest to Clouds Rest or Half Dome) will make a leisurely 3 day trip depending on pacing and side trips. You probably won't find your way to Half Dome unless you start from Happy Isles, Glacier Point, Mono Meadow, or one of the Tioga trailheads.

If you are willing to take another trip that doesn't go near Half Dome, there are other really great views to be had - like the north rim trail. El Capitan, Eagle Peak, Yosemite Point, North Dome... fewer people, better odds at getting a permit. And you could come down Snow Creek into the valley. Or the south rim - ride a shuttle to Wawona Tunnel, climb up to Pohono Trail, hit all the points along the way including Glacier, head down to ilillouette drainage to camp the second night (first night MUST be near Bridalveil Creek), head out toward Nevada Falls... on this one if you were willing to stretch your legs you could end up in Little Yosemite Valley and summit Half Dome, if you remembered to get the Half Dome stamp on your wilderness permit.
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Postby hotrod4x5 » Fri Jun 04, 2010 10:44 am

You say solitude is your preference, well Half Dome is the last hike I would do if that was my goal.
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Postby Wickett » Fri Jun 04, 2010 11:34 am

Distance from the popular trail heads normally = Solitude. As they said Half Dome is a traffic jam. Good luck and post pics!
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Postby baseline bum » Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:27 am

RCRanger03 wrote:Bump for the trip being in about a month and a half

Some things have changed so I thought i would set the stage again

Me and my friend are both 21 avid backpackers going on a 30 day roadtrip of the Western US. As of now we roll into the Yosemite area from the south via HWY-41 in the evening around August 1st (although we could arrange to arrive earlier if necessary), then we have 3 full days to backpack in the Park, and then the morning of Day 4 to take on last deep breath and then heading out Tioga Road to HWY 120 on our way to Bodie, and then Lake Tahoe.

SO... One of the main goals however cliche it is... is to hit Half Dome (we've heard some rumors of a sunrise approach, which I think would be amazing), my partner is really into waterfalls, and I'm a solitude is king kind of guy (which i know is going to be unfeasible for Yosemite in August, but the less crowded the better).

When I first started planning the trip i was all set to get permits the moment they became availible but my partner really wanted to maintain the spontaneity of the trip and not have any set dates outside of the end date so i obliged and we're going to try our hand at the 40% first come first serve permits. (

Do any of you fine people have any recommendations on a 3day trip that would meet our goals? Any and everything would be greatly appreciated

Thanks again :)


Your best bet to get to Half Dome on a backpacking trip is to get reservations for Glacier Point to Illiluoette. According to this report (from Thursday), August 1st is still open. It's a very short and easy first day. The other trailheads to Half Dome (Happy Isles->Little Yosemite Valley, Glacier Point -> Little Yosemite Valley, Sunrise Lakes, and Happy Isles->Sunrise/Merced Lake) are all booked solid for August 1st.

Here's a possible itinerary that could work: (You won't find solitude, but you'll get Half Dome, three incredible waterfalls, and have a day to get Clouds Rest in too).

Day 1 - Pick up permit, drive to Glacier Point, hike down to Illiluoette Creek and setup camp. It's very short and all downhill, but do whatever you can to get there in daylight hours, because the trail is too damn scenic to do at dusk or beyond. On the way to the creek you'll pass Illiluoette Falls, and a lot of the way between GP and Illiluoette Creek, you'll have a birds-eye view of Vernal and Nevada Falls.

Day 2 - Get up at midnight, hike to HD for the sunrise, then snag a spot at LYV or even better at a place closer to Clouds Rest if you have the energy. It would suck to gain that 1000 feet between the creek and Nevada Falls again after doing HD just to retrieve your packs, so maybe you can take them when you leave at midnight and stash them somewhere.

Day 3 - Hike to Clouds' Rest (spectacular summit) and camp at LYV.

Day 4 - Get up early and hike down the Mist Trail to the Valley, then take the bus up to Glacier Point to get your car and drive out. I don't know how much fun the Mist Trail will be with a pack, since the steps under Vernal Falls can be extremely slippery, but it's a spectacular experience walking the steps next to large waterfalls twice.

A few warnings:
(1) I don't know what time is the latest you can pick up your reserved permit, but it has to be done in person either the day before or the day of the hike.
(2) Make sure to bring a bear canister for your food and smellables (it's required in Yosemite), and keep it a ways away from your tent when camping.
(3) After you do the drive up Tioga Pass Road, you're going to want to come back next year and get some time in that spectacular area too.
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Postby AlmostThere » Sat Jun 05, 2010 6:26 am

A few warnings:
(1) I don't know what time is the latest you can pick up your reserved permit, b[i]ut it has to be done in person either the day before or the day of the hike.


10 am the day of the hike, they start handing out unclaimed permits - unless you call and arrange to pick it up later than that.

(2) Make sure to bring a bear canister for your food and smellables (it's required in Yosemite), and keep it a ways away from your tent when camping.

Follow all rules on the Yosemite food storage page. To the letter. Clean out the car, put stuff in bear boxes. Don't assume the empty box or bag of shoes is exempt - bears know what "containers that might contain food" LOOK like. Does not matter if it smells like a locker room or nothing at all.

You can rent Garcia canisters at the park - five bucks each, for the duration of the hike.

(3) After you do the drive up Tioga Pass Road, you're going to want to come back next year and get some time in that spectacular area too.

I practically grew up on Tioga pass - my parents took us up there every summer, repeatedly. You just don't get tired of it.

Have fun. :)
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Postby baseline bum » Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:21 pm

Other options accessible in the neighborhood of Half Dome besides Clouds Rest could include Merced Lake or if you all are ok with some scrambling and bushwhacking, the Half Dome Diving Board (not the thing on the summit of Half Dome that a lot of people call the diving board, but the place from the link below).

http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock ... board.html

Too many cool things, never enough time when one is in Yosemite. :lol:
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Postby baseline bum » Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:41 pm

Since your parter is interested in waterfalls, yet another option would be heading back to the Valley early the day after summiting Half Dome, then going up Yosemite Falls as a dayhike, and driving to see Bridalveil Falls. I'm not sure what those two falls will be like in early August, but I have read this year has been a pretty good snow year. When I went in early July in a great snow year (06), both Yosemite Falls and Bridalveil Falls were roaring. When I went in late August last year though, both were bone dry. You'll be able to make a judgement about whether Yosemite Falls is worth it from Glacier Point though, since you'll have a great view of it from there.
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Postby bill-e-g » Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:53 am

Just a comment on that Diving Board entry.
Been up there twice now. The route on that post is the
way to go if you want to bushwack your way up.
If you go the climbers way to Snake Dike and can do
a couple of class 3 moves... no bushwacking required.

I can find the posts on another forum if anyone wants more specifics.
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Postby sierranomad » Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:16 am

baseline bum wrote:Other options accessible in the neighborhood of Half Dome besides Clouds Rest could include Merced Lake


If you want to experience a greater variety of spectacular Yosemite scenery I would suggest starting at Tuolumme Meadows. Hike up Lyell Canyon for 4+ miles to take the trail over Vogelsang Pass via Evelyn Lake. Hike down past Merced Lake. You could do Half Dome as a side trip once reaching Little Yosemite Valley. Then hike down the Mist Trail.

Two of Yosemite's best falls are along the Mist Trail (Nevada and Vernal). Usually I would recommend going UP the Mist Trail (more conducive to enjoying them) but in August the condition of the falls is questionable, and I wouldn't sacrifice enjoying other aspects of Yosemite to cater to the falls.
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Re: Late permit pick-up

Postby Vlado » Tue Jun 08, 2010 5:48 am

I did pick my permit up at noon when I went to Half Dome last year. You must call the park at (209) 372-0308 the day before your scheduled departure date and ask them to hold the permit for you. You must pick it up by the end of the day, though (whenever the permit stations close...), because otherwise it is forfeit.
From my permit reservation email:
Reservations are held until 10 a.m. on the entry date, and then canceled. Call (209) 372-0308 by 10:00 a.m. on the entry date to hold reservations for late arrival. Calls will be accepted no more than two days in advance. Reservations can be held for the entry date only.
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