by Phil » Wed Jan 11, 2017 4:04 am
Hi Henry,
There are a few big factors involved with that route that you need to be aware of:
First of all, June is going to put you into some high water- great from the standpoint of the falls complex being at peak, but generally problematic in terms of trail conditions along the trail where flooding, and often passage itself is concerned. This is up to and including rangers often closing the trail completely because of conditions not far both above and below Glen Aulin, crossing Register Creek, and Pate Valley.
Secondly, since the pass-through is generally done as a route beginning at Soda Springs in Tuolumne and ending at White Wolf, you have a 3700 foot climb at the ascent to WW. It's a great route, but that climb from Pate Valley is rough. Depending on your wife's ability and attitude, that could be a show killer for her on the trip, and again in terms of her ever wanting to go out with you again.
Because of the latter, many, many people do the route in the opposite direction and begin at White Wolf. That climb is somewhat notorious.
Being her first trip, while the GCT is a great hike, I would seriously consider starting her on a trip that's easier, and maybe even just an overnight. For this one, to allow for contingencies, I would give it 3 nights, 4 days.
As far as camping goes, you're right, McGee Lake is horrible; severely limited sites, heavily mosquito infested...a slight uphill detour that's not really worth the extra effort unless you're clamoring to see it. Instead, even with the pass-through, I would add an extra night and hold up at the campground behind the Glen Aulin HSC for night 1 in order to allow your wife a better entry experience with at least a few niceties and a better selection since the choices get limited for quite some distance beyond. And just to clarify, with a pass-through permit, you ARE allowed to stay at the campsites up behind the HSC under your permit, but without the pass-through, you're limited to ONLY staying at the sites there and nowhere else.
Now, technically, while there are some campsites downtrail from GA, you're not supposed to use them until you pass a mile beyond the camp, which puts you at or past California Falls (they do patrol it, and they will cite you if you get caught). You'll find a few places that are directly trailside for the most part, but you're also correct in that the gorge is narrow, which means that wandering back from the trail isn't really an option. This is true for pretty much the entire trail in the upper areas. Your options before about La Conte/Waterwheel Falls is to go toward the river, deal with some mud and thick vegetation, and see what you can find, or just take what's obvious...a couple that are okay, but the one that really resonates is at California Falls itself, right next to the trail. Nice site in terms of size and basic function, but right next to the trail, and you're going to have to go downriver a ways in order to get water, because the rapids are right there, the rock is insanely slick, and you will die if you go in. Best to go down to La Conte or Return Creek for the night for better site selections, then do a shorter second day and spend the next night in Pate Valley in order to be prepared for an early start on the climb. Do not start that climb late in the day...be smart and hold up! In Pate, also do be aware that bear activity is heavy, and that they can be aggressive (pushy) at times, so proper food storage is absolutely critical! Fantastic area with lots of great sites on both sides of the river though.
After Pate and the majority of the climb, your final night should be along Morrison Creek. Depending on how you guys are feeling, there are some sites about 1/4 mile up and off the trail to the right from where you actually cross the creek, but the better ones are at the top of the creek a few miles up. Steep trail through thickening canopy, then level slightly with the cover opening up a bit, and passes a fairly obvious granite wall about 20' high on your right. A great creekside site to the left, but also a number of sites right above that wall, and even more over the rise tucked into the west face with incredible views down the length of Hetch Hetchy.
Final day: about another 600' of climb and about 5 miles out to White Wolf. Stay the night at the backpacker's camp if the campground is open (probably not, and no main campground = no backpacker's camp),YARTS bus back to the car at Tuolumne late afternoon/early evening (check the 2017 schedule)....
Last edited by
Phil on Wed Jan 11, 2017 11:39 am, edited 1 time in total.