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A Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra (1954), edited by Hervey H. Voge


Bond Pass to Tioga Pass

Bond to Tioga Pass—Other Peaks

Robert L. Swift and David A. Nelson

Acker Peak (10,918)

The first ascent was made July 28, 1945, by A. J. Reyman who climbed the east side from the saddle above Kerrick Meadow. Class 2.

Bath Mountain (10,560)

Glen Dawson and John Cahill made the first ascent July 30, 1934.

Bigelow Peak (10,510)

First ascent in 1927 by Allan M. Starr, Ralph Minor, and Sherman Chickering. The peak may be climbed from Bond Pass or by traversing from Kendrick Peak. Class 1.

Black Mountain (11,794)

First ascents in 1905-1909 by A. H. Sylvester, G. R. Davis and P. Chapman, topographers of the USGS. The second ascent was made by Howard Sloan on June 17, 1931, from Trumbull Lake via Cooney Lake and northeast slope. Class 2. (SCB, 1932, 120.)

Camiaca Peak (11,751)

First ascent was’ made in 1917 by Walter L. Huber. The peak is accessible from Summit Lake near Virginia Pass. Class 2.

Center Mountain (11,220)

First ascent in 1905 by members of the survey party who placed Boundary Mark No. 87. Second ascent was made on July 28, 1914, by Robert Batyer, Leland Day, Herman Sayers, and George Kenney. The easiest route is found on the south slope. Class 1.

Cirque Mountain (10,739)

No information is available.

Chittenden Peak (10,133)

First ascent August 29, 1894, by Lt. N. F. McClure. The easiest route is from the east. Class 2.

Colby Mountain (9,616)

Climbed by John Muir in September 1871. The ascent is an easy walk from Ten Lakes Trail by the south ridge and affords a good view of Tuolumne Canyon. Class 1.

Cold Mountain (10,200+)

First recorded ascent by Glen Dawson and party in 1929. Class 2.

Mount Conness (12,556)

This mountain was first climbed by Clarence King and James T. Gardiner on September 1, 1866. Many ascents have been made since then by various routes, three of which are given below. (SCB, 1945, 94. Photographs: SCB, 1918, 292, 369; 1933, 70-71; 1935, 62-63; 1949, 86-87.)

Route 1. Young Lakes. Class 2. This is the most popular route and is essentially that of the trail shown on the topographic map. Follow the south fork of Conness Creek to a point just past a group of boggy ponds shown on the map as a lake. Then go north up the scree slopes to a valley on a large plateau, up this valley to the ridge above the glacier, and then west on this ridge via a trail to the summit.

Route 2. McCabe Lakes. Class 3. From the saddle east of the upper-most lake follow the narrow crest southeasterly. Turn a shoulder to the southeast by traversing diagonally upward to the crest. Follow the crest southward to the top of the mountain.

Route 3. Glacier. Class 3. From southwest shore of Saddlebag Lake go up the glacier valley and cirque between the east ridges of Conness and North Peak to the glacier. Traverse the glacier in the direction of a pronounced depression in the east ridge of Conness, then climb up over steep slopes of loose rock to the ridge at the foot of the summit. Follow the trail from there to the summit.

Craig Peak (11,041)

Though apparently climbed in July 1911 the first known ascent was that made by John Dyer in 1938. The peak is a class 2 traverse from either north or south, but reaching the northern ridge from Tower Peak involves class 3 climbing. (SCB, 1942, 126.)

Crown Point (11,355)

First ascent was made in 1905 by Geo. R. Davis, A. H. Sylvester, and Pearson Chapman of the USGS. It is an easy ascent from Snow Lake immediately to the south, or from Peeler Lake. Class 2. (SCB, 1951, 31. Photographs: SCB, 1923, 451; 1924, 93.)

Doghead Peak (11,000+)

Climbed before 1911 by H. C. Bradley. A very good view is afforded from this peak which can be easily climbed by following up Wilson Creek. Class 2. (SCB, 1911, 136.)

Double Rock (9,850+)

Both summits, on the rim of Tuolumne Canyon, were climbed on July 18, 1934, by Glen Dawson, Joel Hildebrand, Milton Hildebrand, Dorothy Morris, May Pridham, and David Parish.

Dunderberg Peak (12,374)

The first ascent was made in 1878 by Lt. M. M. Macomb and party of the Wheeler Survey. The peak is composed of steep, broken rock hut presents no technical difficulties. Class 2. A spring ascent was made on April 10, 1936 by Robert Brinton and Walter Mosauer. (SCB, 1932, 120; 1937, 108.)

Eagle Peak (11,825)

First ascent in September 1905 by Geo. R. Davis, A. H. Sylvester, and Pearson Chapman, topographers of the USGS. Approaches are the same as for Hennerville and Robinson peaks. Class 2.

Ehrnbeck Peak (11,194)

First ascent on July 27, 1945, by A. J. Reyman. The climb was started from the saddle north of Wells Peak and the ridge between Stubblefield nd Thompson canyons. Class 2. Another route is by the West Walker River and the northeast ridge. Class 3.

Epidote Peak (10,950+)

Climbed by several Sierra Club members in 1917. Class 2.

Excelsior Mountain (12,440)

Ascended by Howard Sloan on June 13, 1931, by way of the pass at the head of Virginia Creek.

Finger Peaks (11,491)

First ascent on July 19, 1931, by Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson, and Walter Brem, who climbed the east peak from the lake below Burro Pass. It is lower than the peak to the west, which was climbed later. The climb to the lower peak direct from the lake has several difficult pitches. Class 3. On July 25, 1934, the fingers were traversed from west to east by Lewis Clark, Allan MacRae, and Carl Scheerer. (SCB, 1932, 113-114.)

Forsyth Peak (11,140)

The first ascent was made by Rene Kast, Don Hersey, Paul Hersey, AI Teakle, Harry Tenney, Jr., Arthur Evans, and Leon Casou, on July 10, 1937. The original route led up from the south, but the west slope is also easy. Class 2. On August 23, 1953, Le Roy Johnson, Fred Schaub, and Ken Hondsinger climbed the north ridge from Dorothy Lake. Class 3.

Gabbro Peak (11,022)

This peak may be climbed from East Lake or the Virginia Pass trail. Class 2.

Grand Mountain (9,400+)

Climbed by John Muir in September 1871. It is an easy walk by the south slope.

Grey Butte (11,333)

The first known ascent was made by Howard Twining in August 1934. A trail passes a short distance east of the peak. Class 2.

Grouse Mountain (10,764)

First recorded ascent by Le Roy Johnson, Fred Schaub, and Ken Hondsinger August 18, 1953, via the east face. Class 3.

Hanna Mountain (11,489)

No information is available.

Hennerville Peak (11,754)

First recorded ascent was made August 8, 1946, by Ken Crowley, R. Dickey, Jr., Ken Hargreaves, and H. Watty, who climbed from Barney Lake. Once the four thousand feet of talus have been overcome, all the peaks of the Buckeye Ridge may be traversed easily. Class 2.

Mount Hoffmann (10,921)

The first ascent was made by J. D. Whitney, Wm. H. Brewer, and Chas. F. Hoffmann, members of the Whitney Survey, June 24, 1863. The peak is a popular climb and is easily climbed by south slopes after approaching from May Lake or the Tioga Pass Road. It may be climbed by the north slope and west ridge from a branch of Yosemite Creek. Class 2. (Photographs: SCB, 1912, 151; 1915, 292; 1923, 386.)

Hoffmann Thumb. The first ascent of the western pinnacle was made by Jules Eichorn October 16, 1932. The route lies on the face away from the summit of the main peak and consists of a single pitch on steep loose rock. Class 5. On July 20, 1934, Muir Dawson made the first ascent of the upper side of the pinnacle, using an upper belay. (SCB, 1935, 105. Photographs: SCB, 1923, 386; 1935, 105, 110-111.)

Hooper Peak (9,562)

No information is available.

Kendrick Peak (10,346)

First recorded ascent was made by A. J. Reyman July 25, 1945, who traversed south from Bond Pass via Bigelow Peak. A shorter and easier route starts from Jack Main Canyon. Class 2.

Kettle Peak (11,040)

First ascent in August 1948 by William Dunmire and R. L. Swift from the pass between Big Slide and Little Slide canyons. Class 2.

Keyes Peak (11,051)

First ascent on September 1, 1942, by A. J. Reyman. An easy route may be found starting from Tilden Lake. Class 2.

Leevining Peak (11,691)

No information is available.

Lembert Dome (9,400+)

This is a very popular viewpoint. The first ascent is unrecorded. (Photographs: SCB, 1908, 235; 1911, 1; 1915, 225, 293; 1923, 411; 1931, p1.)

Route 1. North slope. Class 1. The Dog Lake trail takes one practically to the summit.

Route 2. East or south slope. Class 2 and class 3.

Route 3. West face. Class 5. First ascent by the west face was made in August 1951 by Dorothy Dern, Philip L. Dern, Alfred R. Dole, H. Stewart Kimball, and Richard Leonard. The route follows a wide class 2 ledge on the west face climbing gradually to the south to a smooth, slightly overhanging buttress at the junction with the south face. One or two pitons are necessary at this point for protection in about fifteen feet of climbing to gentler slopes above.

Michie Peak (10,339)

May be climbed from either Twin Lakes or Jack Main Canyon. Class 2.

Mono Dome (10,612)

No information is available.

Monument Ridge (11,752; 11,800+)

Though early ascents may have been made by prospectors, the first recorded ascent of the highest point was made by A. J. Reyman September 10, 1946. The ridge may be reached from West Lake or Green Lake or from Cattle Creek and Crater Crest. Class 2.

North Peak (12,256)

First ascent was made on June 26, 1937, by Bill Blanchard, Hubert North, and Gary Leech from Saddlebag Lake. Class 2. (Photographs: SCB, 1933, 70, 71; 1949, 86-87.)

Page Peaks (11,000+)

The climb is a long pull over scree if started from the cirque west of East Lake or the gully between Page Peaks and Epidote Peak. The approach from Virginia Pass is shorter and may be preferred. Class 2.

Pettit Peak (10,775)

Climbed by Lewis F. Clark and Virginia Greever on August 1, 1934, at which time a cairn was found indicating an earlier ascent. It is an easy traverse from Regulation Peak and can also be traversed from West Peak. Class 2.

Piute Mountain (10,489)

First ascent July 27, 1911, by Francis P. Farquhar, James Rennie, and Frank Bumstead. An easy ascent may be made by the Bear Valley trail. Class 2. A more difficult route would be by the north chute.

Polly Dome (9,786)

Climbed on June 16, 1896, by Theodore S. Solomons with four girls.

Price Peak (10,603)

The first ascent was made July 28, 1945, by A. J. Reyman on a traverse from Acker Peak and connecting ridges. Another route would be up the west slope from Thompson Canyon. Class 2.

Quarry Peak (11,162)

First ascent in 1905-1909 by Geo. R. Davis, A. H. Sylvester, and Pearson Chapman of the USGS, who established a triangulation station atop the peak. Class 2.

Ragged Peak (10,858)

First ascent was made on July 6, 1863, by William H. Brewer and Charles Hoffmann. The usual route is by the saddle, west shoulder, through scree and talus to the top. Class 2. On August 25, 1939, Boynton Kaiser led a Sierra Club party up the northwest face. Class 4. A class 5 route has been made on the northwest side by Warren Harding. (Photograph: SCB, 1918, 286; 1932, 15.)

Red Peak (11,968)

First ascent by Kenneth May and Howard Twining July 3, 1934. Class (Photograph: SCB, 1935, 62-63.)

Regulation Peak (10,500+)

First known ascent was made in 1921 by R. A. Chase. The peak is an easy climb from the trail. Traverses may be made to the adjoining summits of West, Volunteer, and Pettit peaks. Class 2. (Photographs: SCB, 1910, 151; 1915, 257.)

Richardson Peak (9,845)

First ascent was made July 18, 1928, by Allan M. Starr and Ralph Minor. Class 2.

Robinson Peak (10,823)

Although circumstances of the first ascents are not known they were probably made by members of the 1905-1909 survey and by various sheepherders. The first recorded ascent was made August 22, 1946, by K. Hargreaves, H. F. Watty, R. F. Dickey, Jr., and Ken Crowley from Twin Lakes. The northerly approach from Buckeye Creek and Eagle Creek would appear to be better. Class 2.

Saurian Crest (11,065)

First ascent on September 7, 1938, by John Dyer. Long talus slopes extend to within a few feet of the summits, which require a short bit of scrambling. Class 3. (SCB, 1942, 126. Photographs: SCB, 1912, 157; 1942, 79.)

Sheep Peak (11,852)

First ascent July 1, 1934, by Kenneth May and Howard Twining. Class 2.

Shepherd Crest (11,860; 12,001)

First ascent was made by Herbert B. Blanks, Kenneth May, and Elliot Sawyer July 13, 1933, via one of the steep avalanche chutes from the south. Class 2. The class 3 northeast ridge was climbed by W. Ryland Hill and Charles W. Chesterman on July 5, 1941. (Photographs: SCB, 1918, 288; 1933, 70, 71; 1949, 86. Interesting articles on “Little Lost Valley of Shepherd Crest” appear in SCB, 1933, 68-80, and 1949, 82-86.)

Slide Mountain (11,092)

Climbed by Norman Clyde in 1921. A trail leads over the top of the peak.

Snow Peak (10,933)

The first known ascent was made by John Dyer in 1938. The southern slope of the mountain is easily climbed from Tilden Lake. Class 2.

Stanton Peak (11,666)

First ascent was made during a blizzard May 31, 1934, by Richard G. Johnson, Kenneth May, and Howard Twining. Class 2.

Suicide Ridge (10,050+)

First ascent by Glen Dawson and John Cahill May 31, 1934. Class 2.

Tioga Crest (11,900+)

No information is available.

Tioga Peak (11,532; 11,513n)

No information is available.

Tower Peak (11,704)

The first ascent was made from the north “without any difficulty” in 1870 by C. F. Hoffmann, W. A. Goodyear, and Alfred Craven after earlier unsuccessful attempts by Goddard, King, and Gardiner. From the saddle northwest of the peak and directly above Mary Lake a ridge is followed to a staircase gully which leads to the summit. Class 3. Class 4 routes involving roped climbing have been made on the west face and on the side leading toward Craig Peak. The southeast chute into Stubblefield Canyon has been used for descent. (SCB, 1927, 419; 1942, 126. Photographs: SCB, 1912, 155, 157; 1942, 79.)

Tuolumne Peak (10,875)

A cairn was found on the summit when the first recorded ascent was made by Richard M. Leonard and Sierra Club party on July 9, 1932.

Victoria Peak (11,732)

First recorded ascent on September 8, 1946, by A. J. Reyman. The peak is one of the Buckeye Ridge group, all of which may be approached from either north or south. Class 2.

Volunteer Peak (10,503)

First ascent was made in 1895 by Lts. H. C. Benson and McBride. An easy ascent can be made from the south. Class 2. Traverses may be made to or from West, Regulation, and Pettit peaks.

Walker Mountain (11,572)

No information is available.

Mount Warren (12,337; 12,327n)

First ascent by Mr. Wackenreyder prior to 1868. Class 2.

Wells Peak (11,071)

First ascent was made on July 27, 1945, by A. J. Reyman from the saddle between Wells and Ehrnbeck peaks by the north ridge. Class 2.

West Peak (10,510)

First known ascent July 17, 1931, by Kenneth May and Gus Smith. The peak is commonly approached by a traverse from Volunteer and Pettit peaks. Class 2.

White Mountain (11,850+)

Climbed in 1917 by Walter L. Huber. Class 2.

Whorl Mountain (12,050)

From near the head of Matterhorn Canyon several practicable gullies lead to the main north-south ridge. (SCB, 1934, 99. Photograph: SCB, 1935, 62-63.)

South Peak (11,975+). First ascent by J. W. Combs, R, W. Messer, and William T. Goldsborough July 23, 1911. Class 2-3.

North Peak (11,950+). First ascent by Ralph A. Chase and Sierra Club party July 17, 1921.

Middle Peak (12,050). First ascent by Herbert B. Blanks, Kenneth May, and Elliot Sawyer July 9, 1933, on a class 4 route.

Wildcat Point (9,400+)

Climbed by F. P. Farquhar and Mr. Wells on July 21, 1911.



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